It is odd not seeing any plumbing, rebar, or bolts poking up.So no "stub-ups", everything's flush?
Is the plan to weathertight the shell before the weather rolls in and then work the interior in the winter?
We don't get that much weather in Sequim. Annual rain is 16". I have some work work to do, so the framing may happen November-December.So no "stub-ups", everything's flush?
Is the plan to weathertight the shell before the weather rolls in and then work the interior in the winter?
It is all there, cut down about a half inch below the finish. That allows the finishers to make a vastly superior product.It is odd not seeing any plumbing, rebar, or bolts poking up.
Interesting approach. In my entire career I only did 3 slab foundations, all of which were engineered to death. The last one was 12" slab with a double mat of #5 rebar 12"OC and 3 sides stubbed up 48" to tie in a 9' concrete wall. We tied steel for days.We don't get that much weather in Sequim. Annual rain is 16". I have some work work to do, so the framing may happen November-December.
It is all there, cut down about a half inch below the finish. That allows the finishers to make a vastly superior product.
I got approval to epoxy the 36" tall #4 bar that sticks up into the ICFs.
If the finishers have to work around that and all the pipe, it is never really that flat.
I had an electrical inspection prior to pour for remoting the main service, solar panel disconnect, and RSD switch to the NW corner. Here it is disappearing below grade.
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It is really easy to spot it, besides having it all laid out in wall lines etc.
It dries out really quickly over those stubs I will post pictures.
The PEX tubing I cut 2" square rips of insulation, drilled a hole in it, stuffed it over each run and wired it down just below grade. Smack the thin mud with a hammer and bend it up *When I want to*
That is the key, we are doing the ICF off rolling scaffold and I will leave it nice and smooth until I want it up. PEX deteriorates in sunlight so I will leave it down till needed.
We can do that here, but rebar must continue (with min. 18" lap) all the way to the tie beam and then those cells must have a "cleanout" (one side of that cell on the foundation open (knocked out, with no mortar in the cell) and those cells "pour" with the tie beam to make it continuous.I got approval to epoxy the 36" tall #4 bar that sticks up into the ICFs.
Heh…looks like legos.The stage is set for tomorrow. The first two courses are clipped together, shimmed, and spot glued in place
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