dainthomas, how did you try to restore? The simple kits that amount to putting a thicker layer of wax on them to fill the scratches does not last. I've used the 3M polishing kits that have several grades of abrasives and you grind off the surface to get past the scratches, then grind down much finer to polish to a very clear lens. I found those (applied to the original lenses, I note) last for many years.
Wet sand with 1000 grit then 2000. If they come out of the grill pretty easy, take them out and use a 2K spray clear on them. Multiple light coats with whatever the recommended dry time between coats and a final medium coat. If they don't come out of the grill easy, you can still tape them off and cover everything with some packing paper or plastic. I do motorcycle headlights like this all the time but use a spray gun and PPG clear.Had some body work done several years ago on my Tundra in which the headlights were replaced. Little did I know that they used cheapo garbage because they're almost opaque now, despite trying to restore them a few times. And of course, replacements are around $250/each. Absolutely ridiculous.
Anyway, it's gotta be done but just thought I'd come here to vent/whine.
Wait…you……..park your vehicle…in your GARAGE?I am the wrenchee today not the wrencher. Windshield replacement by Safelite. Easy peasy lemon squeezy… all covered by insurance.
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Not always… we used it to go to a Bush/Candlebox concert and a recreational cannabis dispensary in Cincy Thursday night.Wait…you……..park your vehicle…in your GARAGE?
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I've been pouring in 85w90 every day I used the machine at my place, it has a leaky final drive seal.
My friend cut the special tooling on his CNC plasma cutter and we got started on it today.
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that thing with the holes in it is a nut, and it is on there at some unfuckingbelievable torque and stuck.
The tool held up, those grade 8 bolts held up, but the 3/4" extension snapped under about 2000 ft-lb of torque.
He had a 1" 4:1 torque multiplier and I put a 7' long cheater pipe on that.
Next up, I think we will apply some heat. I have located a used nut in Buffalo NY in case we destroy this one.
we could go at the tool idea again, but that is made from a John Deere/hitachi drawing.
Those are not threaded holes on the nut, just ~.450" smooth bores.
The bearings are large tapered rings and the procedure is to heat them to 160C and then they drop on OK.
That equates to 325 in the oven.
I grabbed some grade 8 7/16" NC bolts and they are tight on the threads as it is. I think the next move is to heat the top side of the nut up ( less oil smoke) cherry and go at it again. That ought to take some of the piss out of it.Oh OK, there were bolts in the holes so I just assumed. Hardened 7/16" or 11mm dowel pins then. Good luck with getting that nut off.
I grabbed some grade 8 7/16" NC bolts and they are tight on the threads as it is. I think the next move is to heat the top side of the nut up ( less oil smoke) cherry and go at it again. That ought to take some of the piss out of it.
I need the machine on the 24th and if we do this early next week, that will allow for some shipping time on a new nut.
I can repair the threads with thread files once it is apart.