Expect $3k off advertised price. Find what you want then buy through the dealer's Internet sales person & just have them deliver it to you.
I will check out those other sites like Truecar today though, I was not aware of them, so thanks for those of you who suggested that.
lol.Jesus christ whoever told me to sign up on Truecar ... F U lol.
I signed up and now my phone will not stop vibrating from all the fucking people sending me emails and text messages.
Fuck me...
I have no knowledge of Kias specifically, except I wouldn't buy one as I think they have had some motor problems etc. I would research the particular model you want, and join Facebook pages and internet message boards dedicated to it. Some manufacturers offer various discounts and are willing to deal such as Ford, others such as Lexus are selling for right around MSRP due to demand. End of the year is probably a good time to buy, I would not wait.
As an example I was looking at either a Ford Explorer ST, BMW X5, or Acura MXD Type S. The Acura did not have any discounts but was nice, Ford did but the Explorer was not luxury and underwhelming. BMW I was able to use a broker and get 9% off plus they offered a $4,000 military discount so I got a better vehicle imho for almost 14% off.
I dunno so far I've been really happy with the experience. It's also the same dealership my neighbors got their Telluride at and they liked it, and my mom bought a Sol from them like 10+ years ago and has had nothing to say about them.Wow the Telluride starts at only $45k? They were hot when first released, so that actually sounds reasonable for a land barge.
IMHO you could do a lot worse than Hyundai/Kia/Genesis; in fact they've been dominating auto reviews for years and HMG is the #3 automaker in the world (excl. Chinese brands). I'm not saying they're as good as Toyota (nobody is), and the Kia Challenge was terribad. But at this point, a lot of their bad rap sounds like anecdotes rather than hard data.
Unless you follow Kaido's advice and go through their online sales person, be prepared for them to waste a lot of your time on Saturday (if you're ready to buy). Be prepared to honestly walk away if you just don't like the deal or the sales grunt. In fact, Hyundai/Kia is widely regarded as having one of the worst dealer experience out there.
All those questions are meaningless. What are you looking to spend has nothing to do with the price that you will pay for a vehicle. Keep doing your research and figure out exactly what model you want. Tell the dealers to communicate with you via email only until they make you an offer that you are willing to accept. You have to take control of the situation with these clowns. We need to know are you paying cash or are you financing the vehicle. If you are financing the best option is always through the manufacturer. If you have financing lined up with a bank, you are good. Car dealers will use fuzzy logic and absurd math to screw you on financing. You would need a forensic accountant to figure out their creative financing.Well I swung by the dealership on the way home today just to check out the colors on 2 they had in stock, and I started talking to them about the next line up, which is the SX or SX X-line.
They actually have an SX X-line in the exact color that I want, but the list price of it was $51k or so if I remember correctly.
I told them that I saw some for sale on other kia sites for $46k - $47k, and I had told them that the other manager offered me the same style in the EX X-line for $45k or so this past weekend. He then asked me how much more the upgrade to the S line means to me, with the safety stuff. And then I said it all depends on the price and he said well what are you looking to spend? I then told him that basically I want to spend no more than $50k after taxes/fees/etc. $50k all in.
I wasn't able to test drive it while I was there due to time and I didn't see the exact car I was looking at because it was off lot, but I basically put that number out there. Based on my research, that basically puts it right around the $46k-$47k price range.
I am going to go back on Saturday to test drive the actual one so we will see what they say. I will even show them the listings on the other websites that show the same year/model/trim (although in different color) for the price mentioned up above.
That is good advice.All those questions are meaningless. What are you looking to spend has nothing to do with the price that you will pay for a vehicle. Keep doing your research and figure out exactly what model you want. Tell the dealers to communicate with you via email only until they make you an offer that you are willing to accept. You have to take control of the situation with these clowns. We need to know are you paying cash or are you financing the vehicle. If you are financing the best option is always through the manufacturer. If you have financing lined up with a bank, you are good. Car dealers will use fuzzy logic and absurd math to screw you on financing. You would need a forensic accountant to figure out their creative financing.
If they say the doc fee is non negotiable, understood. You take off that fee from your offer price plus another $200 inconvenience fee for your headache. Always be willing to walk away and always be willing do sign documents when you get the price you want. The end of the month is when you want to negotiate a best price because they want to hit their sales numbers. Always remind them the economy is in the dump and nobody is buying cars.
You could probably get pre-approval for an auto loan from your current bank, and that shouldn't be a hard credit pull (since they already know you). Usually dealer financing will have a better rate, but it doesn't hurt to have financing lined up just in case. After you've agreed on the sale price, it's the finance department's job to try to squeeze extra money out of you.That is good advice.
And yeah I realize that there is a price I have in mind and that it has no bearing on how much I am financing, how much I am paying in cash, and how much I trade in (which I'm not).
None of the ways I am paying matter - I have a ceiling that I simply will not pay more than.
Whether I pay $300 a month or $700 a month for the car doesn't matter - if at the end it's above what my ceiling price is, I won't buy it. I will be very up front about all of that.
I do plan on financing through the dealer though, although I haven't asked them what their rates are. I am looking to put $20k - $25k down on it and financing the rest.
Good call I didn't even think about using a CC to get points. I was going to just wire money.You could probably get pre-approval for an auto loan from your current bank, and that shouldn't be a hard credit pull (since they already know you). Usually dealer financing will have a better rate, but it doesn't hurt to have financing lined up just in case. After you've agreed on the sale price, it's the finance department's job to try to squeeze extra money out of you.
Kia's web site shows 4.49% APR for up to 48 months. If you have excellent credit, that's what they should offer to you. (The rates inch up a bit the longer the loan term.)
Most dealerships will cap the amount you can charge to a credit card, due to the ~ 2% processing fees. But if they allow you to charge (up to) $5k as part of the down payment, might as well take those CC points while you're at it.
I use Truecar and never signed up for anything. Sorry that you are having a bad experience there. I just quick selected the default Kia Telluride SX FWD and here is what I got:Jesus christ whoever told me to sign up on Truecar ... F U lol.
I signed up and now my phone will not stop vibrating from all the fucking people sending me emails and text messages.
Fuck me...
Do not give them any of that information. Kia has 3.9% or 4.9% financing for 48 months. I am safely assuming that is the best rate that even banks can't touch right now. You negotiate your price before anything. You can tell them you want to finance every penny of the sale but it's completely contingent on getting financing through Kia. Any fee that is taxable by your home state is a BS fee. All you pay is tax, title and license. Once you are approved by Kia, the financing for the dealership is over. They get a kickback from Kia but that puts an end to their creative math for the most part. Never underestimate a car dealer. They are like rats looking for cheese when it comes to screwing you over. You need that mindset to protect your money.That is good advice.
And yeah I realize that there is a price I have in mind and that it has no bearing on how much I am financing, how much I am paying in cash, and how much I trade in (which I'm not).
None of the ways I am paying matter - I have a ceiling that I simply will not pay more than.
Whether I pay $300 a month or $700 a month for the car doesn't matter - if at the end it's above what my ceiling price is, I won't buy it. I will be very up front about all of that.
I do plan on financing through the dealer though, although I haven't asked them what their rates are. I am looking to put $20k - $25k down on it and financing the rest.
I have noticed on these local dealership sites those prices have a disclaimer that they do not include "title, taxes, licensing fee, and $800 dealer processing fee" but like I mentioned, if I can get below $50k out the door after all that shit for the SX X-line model, I would do it.Do not give them any of that information. Kia has 3.9% or 4.9% financing for 48 months. I am safely assuming that is the best rate that even banks can't touch right now. You negotiate your price before anything. You can tell them you want to finance every penny of the sale but it's completely contingent on getting financing through Kia. Any fee that is taxable by your home state is a BS fee. All you pay is tax, title and license. Once you are approved by Kia, the financing for the dealership is over. They get a kickback from Kia but that puts an end to their creative math for the most part. Never underestimate a car dealer. They are like rats looking for cheese when it comes to screwing you over. You need that mindset to protect your money.
If you buy a 2024 model. those have incentives and discounts to close them out of inventory. The 2025 models have less wiggle room even though the Telluride is largely unchanged since it was redesigned in 2023. The second year of a new redesign is always better than the first year. So a 2024 model should be solid.
I wouldn't even tell them up front that you are financing or paying cash. Just get them on an out-the-door price so you can make apples to apples comparisons between dealerships. Once you have what you want, then move on to completing the deal and bringing any necessary finance negotiations into play.All those questions are meaningless. What are you looking to spend has nothing to do with the price that you will pay for a vehicle. Keep doing your research and figure out exactly what model you want. Tell the dealers to communicate with you via email only until they make you an offer that you are willing to accept. You have to take control of the situation with these clowns. We need to know are you paying cash or are you financing the vehicle. If you are financing the best option is always through the manufacturer. If you have financing lined up with a bank, you are good. Car dealers will use fuzzy logic and absurd math to screw you on financing. You would need a forensic accountant to figure out their creative financing.
If they say the doc fee is non negotiable, understood. You take off that fee from your offer price plus another $200 inconvenience fee for your headache. Always be willing to walk away and always be willing do sign documents when you get the price you want. The end of the month is when you want to negotiate a best price because they want to hit their sales numbers. Always remind them the economy is in the dump and nobody is buying cars.
The reason you tell them you are planning on financing from the start. They make more money on a deal when they see financing. Even if you were going to pay cash, you tell them you are financing. This assumes you have secured financing outside of a dealership or are going to finance directly through Kia in this case.I wouldn't even tell them up front that you are financing or paying cash. Just get them on an out-the-door price so you can make apples to apples comparisons between dealerships. Once you have what you want, then move on to completing the deal and bringing any necessary finance negotiations into play.
That makes sense.The reason you tell them you are planning on financing from the start. They make more money on a deal when they see financing. Even if you were going to pay cash, you tell them you are financing. This assumes you have secured financing outside of a dealership or are going to finance directly through Kia in this case.
Never mention you plan to put any money down. If they ask you if you want to put any money down. You ask them do you think it would be a good idea? They ask questions that are open ended or fact finding. So in kind you ask questions to keep them guessing. I would even suggest throwing out a number like $2000 cash. Even if like the OP he plans to put down 20-25K. You save that information for the finance department after you closed the deal and are signing documents.
You always tell them of course I am financing the car. Do you think I am made of money? Then negotiate and get the price out the door. Remember, they will bait and switch you when it comes to signing documents. Always be willing to walk away if they have fees that were not agreed upon if they do not remove them. If you are paying in cash, at the end you tell them you are self financing.That makes sense.
I just remember some of the earlier advice I saw about car purchases, and it was just to leave the financing discussion off so they can't try and confuse you with numbers or multiple simultaneous negotiations.
I've purchased two new vehicles in the last couple of years. A 2022 Ford Maverick and a 2023 Mustang Mach-E. The only advice I can offer is be prepared to walk away if you and the dealer can't come to a reasonable agreement.I'm probably going to buying my first new car ever and am just wondering what ACTUAL realistic expectations should be.
The MSRP on the car I'm looking at is around $45k or so I think. Like assuming the sticker price is $45k, what is an actual true realistic expectation I could expect to drop the price from that $45k?
And I'm not worried about turning this into a new car vs. used car discussion, so just looking for some advice on the above based on people who have experience with it.
Just be careful/mindful, when they ask you how much you want to spend, or how much you are willing to pay a month, they will do everything to get it "close" to that but it is usually a bit higher.Well I swung by the dealership on the way home today just to check out the colors on 2 they had in stock, and I started talking to them about the next line up, which is the SX or SX X-line.
They actually have an SX X-line in the exact color that I want, but the list price of it was $51k or so if I remember correctly.
I told them that I saw some for sale on other kia sites for $46k - $47k, and I had told them that the other manager offered me the same style in the EX X-line for $45k or so this past weekend. He then asked me how much more the upgrade to the S line means to me, with the safety stuff. And then I said it all depends on the price and he said well what are you looking to spend? I then told him that basically I want to spend no more than $50k after taxes/fees/etc. $50k all in.
I wasn't able to test drive it while I was there due to time and I didn't see the exact car I was looking at because it was off lot, but I basically put that number out there. Based on my research, that basically puts it right around the $46k-$47k price range.
I am going to go back on Saturday to test drive the actual one so we will see what they say. I will even show them the listings on the other websites that show the same year/model/trim (although in different color) for the price mentioned up above.
And that’s the best advice in the entire thred.I've purchased two new vehicles in the last couple of years. A 2022 Ford Maverick and a 2023 Mustang Mach-E. The only advice I can offer is be prepared to walk away if you and the dealer can't come to a reasonable agreement.
This sounds simple but it is easier said then done. It's easy to get caught up in the emotion of making a big purchase.
The Telluride is a very popular vehicle despite how many are on dealer lots. Don't be surprised if you only get $1K-2K off MSRP. In the end just settle on a price you are comfortable with on a vehicle you are happy with and if that doesn't happen just walk away.
Didn't you read my post earlier. You give them zero information. When they ask you how much you want to pay a month. That is code for hiding the true car purchase price in the monthly payment. By not answering that question you take away their ability to manipulate you and the true price of the car. By removing the dealership from financing the car. They cannot hide the purchase price in the numbers. Getting financing through the car company is like paying cash for a car. It's out of their hands and they get a standard commission from Kia. They make their money on selling you financing and hiding the numbers within a monthly payment. After that they make their money in the service/repair side of things.Just be careful/mindful, when they ask you how much you want to spend, or how much you are willing to pay a month, they will do everything to get it "close" to that but it is usually a bit higher.
EDIT: after interest ect. It probably isn't worth it.
Put them on their heels. How much are they willing to part with it for.