Simplest way would be to take the hard drive to another person...who HAS XP and get them to burn the info off.
Have you updated the BIOS on your m/b to support greater than 32 gig? Aslo..check the jumpers on the Hard drive...some have jumpers that limit the drive to read just 32 gig.
I have...
I will let it sit longer and see what happens...also..I was aware of the loss of performance..but they said to try it. I guess they wanted to eliminate the RAM as the limiter for the fsb problem.
'Tuff
I got an email from Asus about my A7N8X 1.4 version motherboard. It was concerning the 200mhz front bus speed as my comp is not stable there. They told me to set my Memory to a slower speed than the 200 mhz...I assume they meant to set it at 83%. "async" They did not mention "Timings" I did...
You failed to mention what type of waterblock you are using. Also...I would think that one Rad is enough...as I run 1 with a MicroCup Latest Technology in water blocks and I get 32 deg C. 34ish full load. I would be looking at getting a more efficient block first...then mess around with the...
Sorry to be replying so late...I am thinking if you are using a copper/aluminum block with out antifreeze you might be looking for trouble as you will have corrosion...keep and eye on your temps...if they start to rise...that will be why.
You do not need to lap to extreme smoothness...let the...
Does anyone have a link to find Hacked bios's for the A7N8X motherboard...there is apparently one around that allows you to change the northbridge voltage.
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You failed to mention whether you had a copper or aluminum waterblock...39 seems about right though. It depends where you are getting your temp reading from.
I usually run around 23 for idle and 27 for full load....but I have built my own waterblock and learned some tricks along the way.
Tuff
Temps in the mid 30's especially at full load are most likely false. (Air Cooling)
Water Cooling is hard enough to reach those kind of temps.
The person that says his 2100 on his MSI is running Low 50's probebly has the more accurate temp probe.
It is possible that with all the fans blowing...
Though it seems low there are a number of factors that you would have to consider. Some say you have to get the water in and out quickly while others would say you want the water in the block longer to collect more heat. Also the set up of the block as well...If you are using a channel...
Hmmm...Colder is better...If you are going to do it do it right. Insulate the cpu and the waterblock and the water lines if you think it will be far below ambient temps.
A way to test to see if condensation will be a problem is to find a Peltier cooler and run your waterblock on the hotside...
Compare your results to the factory settings of the CPU...expect a rise of 5 deg C when you raise the voltage and overclock.
51deg C seems fine though...I would set your comp to turn off it it climbs above 60 deg C though.
The reason I say this is that Thermo sensors are FAR from accurate...
Present temp with Sunon fan blowing onto the heatsink.
-Idle Temp:-----31C--34C. No AC running.
-Under Load (Gaming):--------37C--41C. No AC running.
So how about that. By the way, I am running an Intel P4 2.53Ghz OEM chip at 3.06Ghz, and now it's cooler, I clocked it up to 3132Mhz. I plan to...
Knowing what your ambient/room temps are will be the diffence...20-30deg c is going to make quite a difference with heatbuild up in your case, OR....run fresh air directly to your cpu fan...via a venthose..there is a good write up in the forums.
If you are worried about heat being an issue....I...
Honestly now..by the time your have paid for all your fans and other gizmo's..you could have bought an entry level water cooling setup...and had alot less noise, better performance and would be able to say you have a liquid cooled cpu.
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What temps are in your room where the comp is kept...I would try to lower those first...second...clear any air passages that your comp needs to vent...also look for dirty fans.
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The only Drawback I can see is the NOISE that you will have from your computer....I have done what you have done with the vent hose...works great..but..it will only make a limited difference Ambient air will always be the what crushes air cooling. Unfortunately the best way to go is water...
I would think that your water cooling would be sufficient. As for Peltier Coolers...its pretty risky...you were going to use them on the Die itself? If so..insulate it well or you will have nothing but problems.
Tuff
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