@notposting 5-in-3 huh? The drives are installed vertically, I suppose? That sounds lovely :)
@Face2Face That sounds like a good case to start with. I started with those beige generic cases with the 80mm exhaust. It was a nightmere when the first Thermalright TRUE came along...
@ketchup79 Yea...
Yup, there shouldn't be any drama with those standard Asetek units :)
In the product page, you can se you can get a Eisberg 240L (really equivelant unit) on the top or in the front, too! But the 3.0 extreme is an even bigger rad I think, isn't it?
It could be just me, but I always thought that I hear more fan noise, if the psu fan is against a mesh/filter, so I tend to use that orientation, that sometimes can give you headaches with that short EPS12V cable, I admit :)
^ nope :)
There are 3 x 5.25" on the top, a removable 4 x 2.5"/3.5" cage (the one that I removed) and a 3 x 3.5" cage on the bottom, the one that I populated.
It's that 4 x 2.5"/3.5" cage that gave you the wrong impression. It becomes 3.5" in a matter of 4 crews. You move the left side of it...
^ Yup, I used to had the original CM 590 as well, there's a LOT of improvement in the top area indeed, due to all those AIO watercooling kits out there, nowadays ;)
...and the 200mm wide reason my GTX680 stays on boost most of the time :)
And that's about it guys, thanks for baring with my mediocre photos so far.
Overall I liked the CM 690 III a lot. I love the discreet design of it and the fact that I feel it won't look old, soon. The powder...
A few hours later the case looked like this. The manual says microATX / ATX but I got away with my slightly wider (EATX) Maximus IV Extreme Z. It's a really tight fit, but it's in there. An i5 3570k, 2x4GB of cheapo 1600MHz DDR3 and a reference (but sexy matte black) GTX680 is pretty much the...
I could put my SSD in one of the three 3.5" bays, in that bottom HDD cage, or under the ODD cage in front, or on the bottom in front of the psu, or behind the motherboard tray - hmm lots of options there. I'll go with the bottom cage one.
Both drives ready for installation. So queue the...
Nice honeycomb and dust filtering, and a huge 200mm fan behind it. It's a quiet one this one, so you'd most probably keep it there.
This is the top view and the way to get around that 2x120mm / 2x140mm space. It's just a thumbscrew really but the cover stays where it should and I didn't...
Here is the bottom side, with that rather dense removable dust filter, that stays in it's place nice and firmly and the fat rubber feet. YUP that's a Trooper down there!
So let's get inside shall we? Well, no rubber grommets on those cable management holes seems kinda odd, but I liked...
Hello everyone,
it was about time I put my "all over the mobo cardbox" pc, in a nice mid-tower case. So when the new Cooler Master 690 III came along, I took the chance to spare my poor parts all that dust they were collecting, day in day out on my office.
The CM 690 III is a rather compact...
Server's aren't build with quiet operation in mind, indeed.
I wouldn't bother with finding silent 60mm fans. Get some nice 120mm (BeQuiet/NB/Noctua/etc) and go ghetto on that puppy :)
I'd stay away from AIO water coolers, with their buzzing pumps and such.
Check your favourite retailers for a NH-U12S. I know the price is a bit stiff, but you get a great single tower cooler, plus one of the best performing fans availiable out there.
^ Yup :)
Asus released beta BIOS latelty, and Gigabyte uploaded BIOS too. There are some nice motherboards there, for someone who's after a 4670k, on a budget, imho :)
If you're on a budget, you could try for a ~3.8GHz overclock on that hexa-core (with an aftermarket cooler) and you'd be quite good, performance-wise.
If money is not an issue, on the other hand, dunno, go crazy :)
I believe ECC is a rather poorly marketed in the mainstream platforms. An LGA2011 motherboard here and there by Asus, or a hidden and badly documented setting on some AM3+ boards.
It's a shame, cause ECC doesn't cost that much more, and a lot of WS users would want in that tier of products...
^ You're mostly right.
But I always go for the 101% stable and I assume everyone does so. If you're a gamer, it's indeed quite irrelevant tbh. A BSOD can't kill yoy, after all.
But if you're a developer / video editor / etc. instability or some random BSOD can result to lost workhours. That's...
The stock H110' paste is quite decent.
Noctua NT-H1 or Prolimatech PK-1 might get you two degrees below - but would that make a difference? I doubt it.
edit: +1 @ EliteRetard ;)
I misread the #1 post :$
Noctua's perfectly good for IHS-to-HS - and to my experience it's pretty good for GPU's too.
But when it come to die-to-IHS, it's performance deteriotates far too quickly.
I wouldn't stay with such a close_to_fail voltage bump, to be honest.
Those kind of marginal stable overclocks can fail down the road, by an extra gpu installed (!) or even by the psu getting older...
The Noctua paste works indeed great - but you'll lose performance after a month or so.
Been there, before going for CLU.
Very intersting graphs though!
Thumbs up for the topic starter.
Nothing special to add to the thread rather than that anyone thinking about regluing the IHS, black RTV silicone is indeed, the way to go.
3 months and things just look still great :)
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