03 CRV Caliper always seized?

[someone16]

Trying to get people's opinion to see if it's me or just bad luck with parts.

Got a 03 CRV that had a leaky front left caliper, so got that replaced with a rebuilt unit 2 years ago. Half a year later, the rebuilt unit seized, so I replaced it again, this time with new brake hoses on both sides. Now after 1.5 years the 2nd rebuilt unit seized again so got it replaced again. Thankfully it has a lifetime warranty so I'm not out of $$ for 3 calipers.

Each time I checked by opening the bleeder valve to see if the caliper piston is able to retract easier, but that didn't help. I believe if opening the bleeder valve doesn't help then it's the actual caliper that is stuck.

However, I am thinking I can't possibly be this unlucky and I might be doing something wrong that's making it seize? Or would a master cylinder cause just that one caliper to seize. I checked all of the other calipers and they are fine (no sticking or anything). What do you guys think?

Timeline:
2 years ago: Caliper #1
1.5 years ago: Caliper #2 + New brake hoses for the front + Rotor and Pads
Now: Caliper #3

 

[Knox7095]

Make sure rotor is good and pads as well has bearing. Only heat, water and rust should do that to it. Is it the same caliper getting rebuild? If so then just replace it. Also is break fluid clean or black ( meaning full of water ) if black then replace all fluid

 

[someone16]

Make sure rotor is good and pads as well has bearing. Only heat, water and rust should do that to it. Is it the same caliper getting rebuild? If so then just replace it. Also is break fluid clean or black ( meaning full of water ) if black then replace all fluid

Sorry forgot to mention I also did the rotors and pads on the 2nd caliper. Every time the caliper is being swapped for another rebuilt unit. Brake fluid was good the last time I checked. On this last replacement I bled all the brakes with new fluid.

 

[RLGL]

A wise person stated "There are parts and then there are GOOD parts"

 

[dave_the_nerd]

Does your CRV have those pin/slot things where you have to line the caliper and pad up just so? Some Hondas do - I was under the impression that you can damages things if you don't get them lined up right.

Not saying, just saying.

 

[Knox7095]

Well dang dude! Dave the nerd is on to something also check the pin thing. How far do I let the breaks get before changing them. With master cyl just remove brake rez cap and it should reset with c-clamp no problem like really. If the rest are easy then it is just the slave part. Master affects front right to rear left then front left to rear right that is a safety sys most cars use.

 

[Knox7095]

Did you get it worked out?

 

[someone16]

Well it seems to be fine with the 3rd caliper for now, time will tell and see if stays that way. One thing I did notice though was that while bleeding the brakes, the side with the rebuilt caliper seemed to have less pressure than the other side. I wonder if that would cause it, in which case I would probably need a new master cylinder.

 

[EXCellR8]

Here's what I'd do:

Remove the caliper and pads and use either a C-clamp or a spreader to push the pistons all the way back in and check for corrosion. Some of those Honda calipers (don't remember the actual OEM) are not great and the seals will simply dry out and need to be replaced. If the caliper is good and you have access to a reverse bleeder tool, which are really great for obvious reasons, bleed the line and check the master cylinder reservoir for bubbles etc.

If the caliper seals are dried out, you can typically pull them out and re-grease the piston if you don't mind a little extra work. As a rule of thumb... if you can't get on the brakes and lock them up completely after they've been fully bled, you'll want to replace the master cylinder which may have failed. Most brake parts are similar in that there's a hydraulic cylinder and seals, so if something fails it can be tricky to narrow down the actual component or sub-component.

 

[Knox7095]

Yea I would deff check the master cylinder. Check to see if any fluid leaks where it is or where the line go. For that fact what I would do is pull up on cardboard and start car then pump the heck out of the breaks .... (sorry for the obvious) turn car off lol, then go under and look for leaks if not then I'd say master cylinder. One last test with car off pump up pedal until stiff then in a since stand on it to see if you lose pressure.....