20 years ago I knew my car stereo who's who. Who makes the good stuff these days?

[JoLLyRoGer]

I'm gonna go out on a limb here and really date myself. But the last time I was serious into car audio (early to mid 1990's) a few brands were standouts above the others and I'm wondering if they're still as good as they once were or of the game has changed.

Head Units:
Eclipse and Alpine: Couldn't get better than this. Blaupunkt is another honorable mention. Moving down the scale was Pioneer Elite, Sony ES series, and Kenwood Excelon series (which were all brand spanking new to the game with what they called their high end lines back then).

Amplifiers:
Cream of the Crop were:
Phoenix Gold, Alpine V12 series, PPI Art Series, and Rockford Fosgate Punch series amplifier. PPI and Phoenix Gold being about the cleanest thing running with Alpine V12 and Rockford Punch being more about brute power back then.
Other Honerable mentions were the Lanzar Opti-Drive series and Orion HCCA for being some of the first 1/2 ohm stable stuff to arrive.

Speakers (Components):
MB Quart, Infinity, and Boston Acoustics all competed for top honors here with BA edging out the other two in sound quality despite coming up a little short on power handling sometimes.

Subwoofers:
JL Audio, and OZ if you wanted it to sound good. Rockford Fosgate, Kicker, and in particular Ground Zero if you wanted it to slam your brains out.

Power Conditioning:
For wiring, fuze blocks, stiffing caps, alternators, etc.. there was one name, and Stinger was that name..


So fast forward 20 some-odd years and who are the players today?..

 

[Aikouka]

I'd be interested to know if there's also a difference in the fancier head units like ones that include navigation and such. I've been looking at those, and it's been a rather hard decision... especially when they cost between $600-$1000!

 

[QueBert]

The new Pioneer head units are super sick, Alpine still makes top quality products. Haven't heard much from Blaupunkt in ages, that's not to say they're not good I just haven't seen anything from them. Kenwood & JVC have some killer HU's too. Amps, Alpines are still great, I'm a big fan of Polk's amps, JL makes good amps and subs/speakers.

Subs - JL W7's are hard to beat, Kicker's sound goooood for the price, I think overall the Polks sound the cleanest, but they don't have the level of bass that JL or Kickers too.

Speakers Focal's always good, same with Boston, my dream components are the Polk MM 6501's. I love the way Polk's tweeters sound. Diamond Audio's a brand you don't see many places but they have an incredibly smooth and balanced sound to them.

Stupid name imho but Nukonceptz makes very nice wiring & blocks and such and they're not expensive for the quality you get. JL's stuff is top notch but pretty damn pricey. I had some of the higher end Kicker wiring in my old car, it was really crazy how they had this thick ass 4 gauge wiring, yet it was almost as soft and flexable as 20 gauge speaker wire. Yeah that didn't effect SQ, but it made running and hiding the wiring so much easier. The Nukonceptz stuff is also very flexible

Sometime this year I plan to do my car stereo and this is what I have in mind - since it'll be happening later in the year it'll no doubt change some what.


Pioneer Head Unit - http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/DVD-Receivers/AVH-P8400BH

Polk 1200.1 mono amp - http://www.polkaudio.com/caraudio/pa/index.php#pa1200_1

Polk 500.4 4 channel amp - http://www.polkaudio.com/caraudio/pa/index.php#pa500_4

Polk MM1222 12" box - http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB1...k+12%22+db1222 I actually want the model with the silver DB speakers, can't find a link though Had these in my old car, for the price JESUS they hit hard. the higher end JL's would be better, but would cost 4x as much for 2 and a ported box.

Nuknoceptz 0 gauge dual amp kit - http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KFX-PK20

Nukonceptz battery terminals - http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KBT-30N I like em but not sure how the hell you're suppose to jump your car if the battery goes dead lol. I actually ordered them for my last car and ended up not using them because there's nowhere to clamp a jumper cable on them.




Fosgate has gone waaaay downhill, their stuff's still alright. But nothing compared to what it use to be.

 

[Soundmanred]

Move away from the mainstream brands to really get the good stuff. I used to be an Alpine/JL fan, but now I'm into stuff most people don't know about. I currently enjoy Hybrid Audio (HAT), Morel, Digital Designs, Sundown, Massive Audio, and Audison for processing.
As far as wiring goes, make sure you skip the cheap CCA (copper clad aluminum) junk and get 100% oxygen free copper. Don't focus on brand names for wiring, just get OFC and the flexibility you need. I personally use 2/0 gauge OFC welding wire with great results. Massive and flexible at the same time, and resistant to corrosion and the elements.
As with most things you buy, you get what you pay for.

 

[Charlie98]

Good heavens... Flashback!!! Reading the OP described my knowledge of car audio almost to a T...

I am a big fan of MB Quart speakers, would probably be my first choice for the front end. I had 4 JL 8W-1's in my old build, they served me for almost 10 years, I don't see why they wouldn't still be a good choice. For passive crossovers, MB Quart Competition ones were very, very good.

I used Phoenix Gold wire and RCA's, and Tiff blocks, but I would agree with Soundmanred about getting quality pure copper wires, etc. I'm still using those RCA's on my home stereo... no problems with bad plugs even after 15 years.

I had all PPI Art-series amps and components... and I know that isn't an option any longer...

 

[Knavish]

Move away from the mainstream brands to really get the good stuff. I used to be an Alpine/JL fan, but now I'm into stuff most people don't know about. I currently enjoy Hybrid Audio (HAT), Morel, Digital Designs, Sundown, Massive Audio, and Audison for processing.
As far as wiring goes, make sure you skip the cheap CCA (copper clad aluminum) junk and get 100% oxygen free copper. Don't focus on brand names for wiring, just get OFC and the flexibility you need. I personally use 2/0 gauge OFC welding wire with great results. Massive and flexible at the same time, and resistant to corrosion and the elements.
As with most things you buy, you get what you pay for.

How would 'oxygen free copper' be different from regular copper wire of the same gauge?

I love audiophile descriptions of wire, like the following I just found on google:

"The double-twisted strands are arranged so that bidirectional current flow can take place with electrons able to move in BOTH directions (electrons move through the copper while positively charged "holes" move through the antimony)."​

From an engineering or physics perspective, this statement makes about as much sense as a computer fan with the following description:

The polished blades of the SuperPure Computer Fan allow more gigahertz to flow freely into your computer case and diffuse into your CPU, allowing higher overclocking results.​

 

[jtvang125]

I'd be interested to know if there's also a difference in the fancier head units like ones that include navigation and such. I've been looking at those, and it's been a rather hard decision... especially when they cost between $600-$1000!

If you want integrated Nav and the ability to play videos/movies in your car then they may be worth it. Other than that you can get the same or even more features in a regular headunit at less than half the price.

 

[GrumpyMan]

Back in the day I used to love Jensen Triaxial 6x9 speakers. I don't think they make those anymore though. (

 

[jtvang125]

Move away from the mainstream brands to really get the good stuff. I used to be an Alpine/JL fan, but now I'm into stuff most people don't know about. I currently enjoy Hybrid Audio (HAT), Morel, Digital Designs, Sundown, Massive Audio, and Audison for processing.
As far as wiring goes, make sure you skip the cheap CCA (copper clad aluminum) junk and get 100% oxygen free copper. Don't focus on brand names for wiring, just get OFC and the flexibility you need. I personally use 2/0 gauge OFC welding wire with great results. Massive and flexible at the same time, and resistant to corrosion and the elements.
As with most things you buy, you get what you pay for.

Yep, many of the good companies back then were bought over or their production went overseas so their quality took a nose dive. PPI, Phoenix Gold, MB Quart, Soundstream...ect just aren't what they use to be. Eclipse made some good stuff but their parent company pulled out of the industry. Alpine is still good but their products lack many features that are found in their competitors for a lot less. Even JL is now offering a few cheap model lines.

I'm running a Elemental Design nine.5 6ch to power my whole system and that thing is a beast.

 

[Aikouka]

If you want integrated Nav and the ability to play videos/movies in your car then they may be worth it. Other than that you can get the same or even more features in a regular headunit at less than half the price.

I don't care about videos/movies, but I do care about navigation and USB-based playback. My Nissan may have a touch screen and all that fancy jazz, but it still uses the archaic CD-based MP3 playback, which is rather annoying when you just want to add a single song. Using my phone or just a large SDHC card would be fine. I'd also still like to keep the rear-view camera from my car.

Although, when you start talking about a lot of storage, one of the important aspects of a head unit comes up... usability.

EDIT:

Heck, I'd probably be fine just using a 2012 Altima's head unit, but I have no idea if they will work together. Visibly, the interior hasn't changed at all since my 2007 came out, and there aren't any new features that I know of, which would lead me to believe that the pin out is similar.

 

[thefordmccord]

Sundown Audio for amps and Fi Audio for subs. I still use Pioneer for head units and mids/highs. Not any of that Wal-Mart Pioneer shit either. That's all you need to know.

 

[Soundmanred]

How would 'oxygen free copper' be different from regular copper wire of the same gauge?

I use the term OFC only as to differentiate itself from CCA. OFC is pretty standard, and most wire you can purchase is OFC if it's not the cheaper CCA junk (or something even worse).

 

[Fallen Kell]

How would 'oxygen free copper' be different from regular copper wire of the same gauge?

It actually does make a difference. Oxygen+Copper react to form copper oxide. Copper oxide (depending on the type, as there are three main ones, cubic (Cu0), and the two types of cuprous (Cu20 and CuO(0.67)), is a horrible conductive material. The cuprous oxides have been tested experimentally to have a electrical resistivity of 4.5x10^3 ohms/meter, which is SIGNIFICANTLY higher (10^11 times!!!) than copper's 0.00000001678 ohms/meter. Cuprous Copper oxide is almost as poor an electrical conducting material as deionized water (the stuff they use in water cooling loops because if it spills over your electronics it won't cause a short).

 

[Oyeve]

Whatever happened to Blaupunkt?

 

[Knavish]

It actually does make a difference. Oxygen+Copper react to form copper oxide. Copper oxide (depending on the type, as there are three main ones, cubic (Cu0), and the two types of cuprous (Cu20 and CuO(0.67)), is a horrible conductive material. The cuprous oxides have been tested experimentally to have a electrical resistivity of 4.5x10^3 ohms/meter, which is SIGNIFICANTLY higher (10^11 times!!!) than copper's 0.00000001678 ohms/meter. Cuprous Copper oxide is almost as poor an electrical conducting material as deionized water (the stuff they use in water cooling loops because if it spills over your electronics it won't cause a short).

If this was a major problem with regular copper wire, I think every (copper wired) house in the country would burn down:
P = I^2*R.
P = (10amps)^2*(4.5E3 ohms/meter)*(5 meters) = 2.25 MW

{i.e. My hair dryer takes ~10 amps. It's more than 5 meters from my circuit breaker box, and I'm pretty sure they didn't wire my place with oxygen free copper. If my wire was fully oxidized, it would consume 2.25 Megawatts to get 10 amps to my hairdryer. Since I don't live in a blazing inferno, I don't think that my "oxygenated" copper is highly resistive.}

Realistically we are just talking about a tiny difference in resistance: maybe a few 10ths of an ohm. How will a couple 10ths of an ohm change my car audio? All it does is add a small load to the amp. I'd be much more worried if it was adding capacitance in series with the speakers, but luckily we are just talking about resistance.

Also, according to Roger Russell's Speaker Wire Site, there is typically no difference in resistivity in normal copper wire and oxygen free copper. Personally I'd put oxygen free copper in the same pile as Monster Cable.

 

[tortillasoup]

If this was a major problem with regular copper wire, I think every (copper wired) house in the country would burn down:
P = I^2*R.
P = (10amps)^2*(4.5E3 ohms/meter)*(5 meters) = 2.25 MW

{i.e. My hair dryer takes ~10 amps. It's more than 5 meters from my circuit breaker box, and I'm pretty sure they didn't wire my place with oxygen free copper. If my wire was fully oxidized, it would consume 2.25 Megawatts to get 10 amps to my hairdryer. Since I don't live in a blazing inferno, I don't think that my "oxygenated" copper is highly resistive.}

Realistically we are just talking about a tiny difference in resistance: maybe a few 10ths of an ohm. How will a couple 10ths of an ohm change my car audio? All it does is add a small load to the amp. I'd be much more worried if it was adding capacitance in series with the speakers, but luckily we are just talking about resistance.

Also, according to Roger Russell's Speaker Wire Site, there is typically no difference in resistivity in normal copper wire and oxygen free copper. Personally I'd put oxygen free copper in the same pile as Monster Cable.

Houses do burn down but they're mostly trouble free compared to cars because cars are run on DC electricity vs the AC you use in your house. AC doesn't corrode like DC does so that means things like switches and outlets last much much longer in houses than in cars before they need their electrical connections to be cleaned up.

After about 25 years, the electrical systems in houses really should undergo maintenance because of the corrosion and degradation of things like circuit breakers, outlets, etc. Yes there are houses on the market that are 40+ years old now and haven't had any electrical work to them and they are indeed fire hazards now whether the home owner realizes it or not.