2990wx watercooling try 2

[Markfw]

So I am getting the new 32 core threadripper when it comes out, and I want the best KIT for aftermarket watercooling, 360 or 420 rad. I plan on using the "Fractal Design Define R6" as it looks to be one of the best bets for this setup, and the new motherboards may be EATX, and this case handles that as well. I don't want to piecemeal the kit myself, and find I am missing some parts when I go to install it.

So what do you recommend ? It has to have the special TR4 waterblock.

 

[Hendrickson]

You might check out the EK Waterblock configurator tool:

https://www.ekwb.com/custom-loop-configurator/

It will let you select the components you have (CPU/MB/GPU/Case), finding out what you want to do with the custom loop, and then give you a kit that's compatible with your case setup and cooling needs, and has all parts you need to assemble the loop.

It's a pretty handy tool for anyone who doesn't spend a ton of time with custom loops, and wants to be sure they are getting the right stuff without having to do a ton of research.

 

[Markfw]

You might check out the EK Waterblock configurator tool:

https://www.ekwb.com/custom-loop-configurator/

It will let you select the components you have (CPU/MB/GPU/Case), finding out what you want to do with the custom loop, and then give you a kit that's compatible with your case setup and cooling needs, and has all parts you need to assemble the loop.

It's a pretty handy tool for anyone who doesn't spend a ton of time with custom loops, and wants to be sure they are getting the right stuff without having to do a ton of research.

I did, but it did not say anything about the TR4 and the only block I saw was nichol , not copper, and only a slim 360 rad. I want like a 480 or 560 rad, a copper TR4 water block, or maybe even 2 rads.

 

[Hendrickson]

I would be pretty careful on the R6 about adding a 420mm at the top. It does technically support it, but you will run into issues with the VRM heatsink and memory clearance. I have an R6, and I couldn't get a 280mm AIO mounted at the top because of clearance issues with some pretty standard height memory modules. I can check what the clearance will be with 360mm rad when I get home this evening, but I suspect you will be OK unless you have some really tall memory modules. It will also depend on your MB of course.

Honestly a 360mm slim rad at the top might not be a bad idea. If you do a 360 slim at the top, and a 360mm either 40mm or 60mm thick rad at the front, you should be in good shape. Combined with decent fans and good airflow that setup should dissipate something like 800-1000w of heat, which should be plenty even if you are OCing pretty heavily, and have your GPU in the loop.

 

[Hendrickson]

Oh I forgot to mention, unless you go with aluminum components, any waterblock you buy from a reputable manufacture is going to be copper usually with nickle plating. On EK's site, the nickle is refering to the color/finish of the block. If it says nickle, it's nickle plated copper.

 

[aigomorla]

There are not many TR4 waterblocks.
However you must get a TR4 waterblock because of how large the die is on TR4.

XSPC Raystorm Neo:
https://www.amazon.com/XSPC-Raystorm-Waterblock-Threadripper-Socket/dp/B0758GHWZ6

eK Supremacy sTR4:
https://www.amazon.com/EKWB-EK-Supr...44226&sr=1-2&keywords=threadripper+waterblock

koolance 400A-S Thread Ripper:
http://koolance.com/processor-water-block-amd-threadripper-cpu-400a-s

Swiftech SKF-TR4:
http://www.swiftech.com/apogee-skf-tr4-heirloom-series.aspx

Watercool Heatkiller IV Pro TR4
https://www.amazon.com/Watercool-HEATKILLER-Waterblock-Threadripper-Socket/dp/B07CZZFTWB

As for what is the best?
They will all perform close to one another so honestly now go with whatever you think looks the nicest in your case layout.
You seriously wont miss the couple C's advantage/disadvange they have on each other more then bling factor they present in your case layout.

You can get nickle plated gear and mix with copper, as its perfectly acceptable..
You can not however mix aluminum and copper together, as that spells doom even if you have a sacrificial node like Thermaltake pacifica garbage. AVOID THERMALTAKE BLOCKS / RADS PERIOD.

Nickle will not tarnish and turn brown like copper does, this is one reason why a lot of people like nickle. However nickle tends to flake over time as water is abrasive, and when you have flow over it, it will flake, unless you have a super nickle plate process like what swiftech used to do.. ( i dont know if they still do so now).

You can not mix Nickle and Silver as it will cause the nickle to oxidize faster then intended, and it will accelerate the flaking.
If your running a all copper (no nickle) loop, i highly recommend you drop in a pure 99.9999 silver coil, (NOT STERLING) and use distilled water as coolant.

If you like colors, then you will need to go with dyes and premixes.

I like Alphacool NeXXos XT radiators because of the ginormous port options, and full copper.
I like XSPC RX series also because they are known in our hobby as top tier as well.
Personally i would go for Alphacool first if i needed a new radiator.
I do not like EK rads, because again, they are overpriced for what you honestly get.... go with a Alphacool NeXXos XT if your completely lost.

I like 120mm rads more then 140mm rads, because unless your going to pair that 140mm rad with noctua 140mm IPP's you wont have good fan options for it.
https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-Beari...=1532546363&sr=1-4&keywords=noctua+140mm+ippc

Nidac Gentle Typhoons are THE BEST fans for rads, period.
https://www.coolerguys.com/products...50-1850-2150-and-4250-rpm?variant=17667278149

Liang D5 is known for reliability and Quiet.
Liang DDC is known for performance.

If you dont want something that sounds like a mosquito buzzing around, get a D5.
XSPC and eK will use real Liang D5's.
Becareful of the Chinese Knockoff D5's running around.
A REAL D5 has a stainless impeller housing and is not Plastic

vs a Fake Lorwa which tends to cost 2/3rds a real... Barrow uses Fake D5's:

The real D5's are quieter, and more reliable... in my collection of 10+ yrs D5, i have not lost one yet... that is how reliable they are.

If you go compression fittings, make sure you match the tubing designed for it exactly.

Premixes is a scam in 90% of most cases, as you can replicate it using propyl glycol and distilled water in a 2:8 mixture. I tend to only recommend premix if it has a color, or the aura effect mayhem has in its premix coolant.

If its your first time watercooling, stay away from rigid tubing / PETG hard pipe / Acrylic pipes, as it will be a headache if you need to either swap something out, or do maintance on because of the need to drain your loop.
You need good planning for hard pipe systems, and they are not meant for the beginner, or even a novice.

Whatever budget you had intended, expect to need to double it, unless you already set a large budget.

A typical good H2O build can easily break you around 400-600 dollars....
Do not cheap a Custom H2O build as it will be far better to just go AIR or a simple AIO, then have to mess with a hybridized Custom loop.
GPU watercooling is more benifical then CPU watercooling.
Example, my 1080ti idles at 30C and loads at 40C with a 480 radiator running 4 Nidac GT's @ 1850RPM.
This is with mosfet being cooled under a cold plate. If your going to watercool your GPU, get a eVGA waterblock for your FTW3.

eK makes nice stuff, however i feel they are too overpriced.
Avoid Bsykzi, they are OK, however you will need additional parts sometimes. The QC on them is horrible IMO.
Barrow makes REALLY NICE stuff for more realistic prices.
Bitspower will break your wallet, so i tend to not get them anymore, you can find a Barrow counterpart for 2/3rds the price.
If you can not pronounce the vendor, DONT BUY IT, as it will leak or QC will be so horrible, that you will have to rebuy a barrow product.
Thermaltake is thermal junk, so just say no.
Koolance is OK now, they were bad back in pre 2007, but they changed a lot especially in terms of cpu and gpu waterblocks.,

 

[Markfw]

There are not many TR4 waterblocks.
However you must get a TR4 waterblock because of how large the die is on TR4.

XSPC Raystorm Neo:
https://www.amazon.com/XSPC-Raystorm-Waterblock-Threadripper-Socket/dp/B0758GHWZ6

eK Supremacy sTR4:
https://www.amazon.com/EKWB-EK-Supr...44226&sr=1-2&keywords=threadripper+waterblock

koolance 400A-S Thread Ripper:
http://koolance.com/processor-water-block-amd-threadripper-cpu-400a-s

Swiftech SKF-TR4:
http://www.swiftech.com/apogee-skf-tr4-heirloom-series.aspx

Watercool Heatkiller IV Pro TR4
https://www.amazon.com/Watercool-HEATKILLER-Waterblock-Threadripper-Socket/dp/B07CZZFTWB

As for what is the best?
They will all perform close to one another so honestly now go with whatever you think looks the nicest in your case layout.
You seriously wont miss the couple C's advantage/disadvange they have on each other more then bling factor they present in your case layout.

You can get nickle plated gear and mix with copper, as its perfectly acceptable..
You can not however mix aluminum and copper together, as that spells doom even if you have a sacrificial node like Thermaltake pacifica garbage. AVOID THERMALTAKE BLOCKS / RADS PERIOD.

Nickle will not tarnish and turn brown like copper does, this is one reason why a lot of people like nickle. However nickle tends to flake over time as water is abrasive, and when you have flow over it, it will flake, unless you have a super nickle plate process like what swiftech used to do.. ( i dont know if they still do so now).

You can not mix Nickle and Silver as it will cause the nickle to oxidize faster then intended, and it will accelerate the flaking.
If your running a all copper (no nickle) loop, i highly recommend you drop in a pure 99.9999 silver coil, (NOT STERLING) and use distilled water as coolant.

If you like colors, then you will need to go with dyes and premixes.

I like Alphacool NeXXos XT radiators because of the ginormous port options, and full copper.
I like XSPC RX series also because they are known in our hobby as top tier as well.
Personally i would go for Alphacool first if i needed a new radiator.
I do not like EK rads, because again, they are overpriced for what you honestly get.... go with a Alphacool NeXXos XT if your completely lost.

I like 120mm rads more then 140mm rads, because unless your going to pair that 140mm rad with noctua 140mm IPP's you wont have good fan options for it.
https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-Beari...=1532546363&sr=1-4&keywords=noctua+140mm+ippc

Nidac Gentle Typhoons are THE BEST fans for rads, period.
https://www.coolerguys.com/products...50-1850-2150-and-4250-rpm?variant=17667278149

Liang D5 is known for reliability and Quiet.
Liang DDC is known for performance.

If you dont want something that sounds like a mosquito buzzing around, get a D5.
XSPC and eK will use real Liang D5's.
Becareful of the Chinese Knockoff D5's running around.
A REAL D5 has a stainless impeller housing and is not Plastic

vs a Fake Lorwa which tends to cost 2/3rds a real... Barrow uses Fake D5's:

The real D5's are quieter, and more reliable... in my collection of 10+ yrs D5, i have not lost one yet... that is how reliable they are.

If you go compression fittings, make sure you match the tubing designed for it exactly.

Premixes is a scam in 90% of most cases, as you can replicate it using propyl glycol and distilled water in a 2:8 mixture. I tend to only recommend premix if it has a color, or the aura effect mayhem has in its premix coolant.

If its your first time watercooling, stay away from rigid tubing / PETG hard pipe / Acrylic pipes, as it will be a headache if you need to either swap something out, or do maintance on because of the need to drain your loop.
You need good planning for hard pipe systems, and they are not meant for the beginner, or even a novice.

Whatever budget you had intended, expect to need to double it, unless you already set a large budget.

A typical good H2O build can easily break you around 400-600 dollars....
Do not cheap a Custom H2O build as it will be far better to just go AIR or a simple AIO, then have to mess with a hybridized Custom loop.
GPU watercooling is more benifical then CPU watercooling.
Example, my 1080ti idles at 30C and loads at 40C with a 480 radiator running 4 Nidac GT's @ 1850RPM.
This is with mosfet being cooled under a cold plate. If your going to watercool your GPU, get a eVGA waterblock for your FTW3.

eK makes nice stuff, however i feel they are too overpriced.
Avoid Bsykzi, they are OK, however you will need additional parts sometimes. The QC on them is horrible IMO.
Barrow makes REALLY NICE stuff for more realistic prices.
Bitspower will break your wallet, so i tend to not get them anymore, you can find a Barrow counterpart for 2/3rds the price.
If you can not pronounce the vendor, DONT BUY IT, as it will leak or QC will be so horrible, that you will have to rebuy a barrow product.
Thermaltake is thermal junk, so just say no.
Koolance is OK now, they were bad back in pre 2007, but they changed a lot especially in terms of cpu and gpu waterblocks.,

WOW, thats a lot of information. So, I don't care about looks, I want the best performance. I am thinking 2 360 rads in serial ? Can you tell me which water block is the best performer ? or quality ? And which 360 rads to go with ? and can I use a reservoir and pump combo ? which one ? and if I wanted colors, is there one better than the others ? I read that some have additives that help with maintenance.

 

[Hendrickson]

That's why I recommended the EK configurator. It's really a pretty good tool for water cooling beginners. Yes if I have my choice, I'd go with an EK block, Alphacool rads, EK/Alpha pump/res, and Bitspower fittings or whatever, but that's a lot of work, and you need to know what you're looking for. Now I'll pick each part depending on what I'm doing with my loop, but a couple of years ago when I first I got into custom loops I bought one of those pre-made EK kits you can buy from Newegg. I still use most of the parts from it on other loops.

You may end up paying a few dollars more, but EK makes very good parts, and they make it very easy considering how complicated custom water cooling can be. Plus they send you everything, and you don't have to worry about fluid, fittings, tubing, they even send a 24pin bridge for when you are filling your loop.

As aigomorla mentioned, there is only a couple of degrees C difference between any good quality waterblock. Your fan selection will have a much greater impact on your temps while under sustained loads.

And yeah, stay away from Thermaltake. Their stuff is crap.

 

[aigomorla]

I am thinking 2 360 rads in serial ? Can you tell me which water block is the best performer ? or quality ? And which 360 rads to go with ? and can I use a reservoir and pump combo ? which one ? and if I wanted colors, is there one better than the others ? I read that some have additives that help with maintenance.

best performer depends on what your loop is made of.
One may have less flow restrictions which can boost overall effeciency.
One may have better tubulance which can boost overall performance on cpu block.

The first would perform better on a loop with multi blocks, like a GPU.
The second would perform better on a single cpu loop with high head pressure.

360 x 2 serial for just a CPU loop is overkill.
You will majorly hit the point of dimished returns on your system, which unless you intend to run it door knob silent, is a waste, as your fan on your psu and rear exhaust will make more noise anyhow, as well as gpu.
Dimished returns is a fn of Log, which means the higher you get up, the more flat line it becomes, because father physics gave us thermodynamics which can not be broken no matter how hard we try.

It would be best you tell us what case + parts wanting to water cool you want for us to help you plan.

The first thing i can think of is probably getting a new case which has watercooling design intended, and that is the ONLY time i will ever recommend a Thermaltake.
Thermaltake cases, tend to be more watercooling friendly then any other, especially when it comes to large builds, unless you want to drop a lot of money on a higher end like a caselabs.

 

[Markfw]

best performer depends on what your loop is made of.
One may have less flow restrictions which can boost overall effeciency.
One may have better tubulance which can boost overall performance on cpu block.

The first would perform better on a loop with multi blocks, like a GPU.
The second would perform better on a single cpu loop with high head pressure.

360 x 2 serial for just a CPU loop is overkill.
You will majorly hit the point of dimished returns on your system, which unless you intend to run it door knob silent, is a waste, as your fan on your psu and rear exhaust will make more noise anyhow, as well as gpu.
Dimished returns is a fn of Log, which means the higher you get up, the more flat line it becomes, because father physics gave us thermodynamics which can not be broken no matter how hard we try.

It would be best you tell us what case + parts wanting to water cool you want for us to help you plan.

The first thing i can think of is probably getting a new case which has watercooling design intended, and that is the ONLY time i will ever recommend a Thermaltake.
Thermaltake cases, tend to be more watercooling friendly then any other, especially when it comes to large builds, unless you want to drop a lot of money on a higher end like a caselabs.

I have the Enermax 360 TR4 (full size contact) cooling on 3 of my 4 threadrippers. It does OK< until I try to go over 4 ghz, and then they can't keep it under 80c.

This new box is the 32 core Threadripper, and from what I gather, even a small OC (4 ghz) will take it well over 500 watts, hence why I want the 2 rads. Still think its overkill ?

Silent is not a concern at all, performance and dependability are first and foremost. The current case I am considering is the Define R6, as it handles EATX motherboard, and I expect that a new X399 motherboard with 19 phase VRMs (or more) might be EATX. If not I am getting the Define S, of which I have 3 for 3 of my threadrippers, and I know I can use 2 360 rads on those. Currently they are also all open case, the only concern is proper fans for the rads. Not even sure at the moment if I want 1080TI's or 1180's, but I will get a 1200-1600 Platinum PSU to be ready, Any other case suggestions are welcome.

Edit: This thermaltake looks very promising in price and rad options.
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811133361

 

[aigomorla]

wow i thought someone would take care of you by now...

Ok... here is my list of recommendations.

First off that case blows.
If you want a easy H2O experience, as they say go Square Box.

If you want something which you can easily mount 2 x 360's in then you want something large.
That being said... My favorate all time case right now as of this moment for h2o is this guy:

Thermaltake Tower 900:
https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-...2674989&sr=8-1&keywords=thermaltake+tower+900

Why do i love that case?
It can natively hold 2 x 480's in the rear.
It has a unique board layout where your gpu's are hanging so very little torque is put on the board and gpu.
It has Tempered Glass.
It has a lot of potential for a growing H2O build... a LOT of potential.

That being said...
You will need CPU Block + Radaitor + Reservior + Fittings + tubing.

CPU Block: Any of the above listed... honestly, go with whatever you think looks the best... trust me, you wont miss the few C's they bring out more then you will miss not getting the one that looks better....

Radiator: Alphacool NeXXXos ST60:
https://www.amazon.com/Alphacool-Ne...=1532675232&sr=1-4&keywords=alphacool+nexxxos

Pump / Res: XSPC Photon 270
https://www.amazon.com/XSPC-Photon-...532675181&sr=1-3&keywords=xspc+d5+photon+pump

It uses an Original D5 Vario and not PWM... i honestly prefer the VARIO > PWM, as those are all the ones i have had running solid for 10yrs. Also the PWM D5's are harder to prime from what i hear because they ramp at a lower RPM.

XSPC Compression Fittings:
https://www.amazon.com/XSPC-Compression-Fitting-Tubing-Chrome/dp/B071X57Z83/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1532675578&sr=1-1&keywords=xspc+g1/4"+to+1/2"+id,+3/4"+od+compression+fitting
Thats a pack of 8.. you will need 6 for a cpu + rad + res loop. The extra 2 you can hold onto if you ever decide to watercool the GPU.

Primochill LRT tubing: 10 feet x 2 ... i am guessing you may need a bit more then 10 feet... to be safe i would grab 2 and save one incase you again decide to do GPU.
https://www.amazon.com/PrimoFlex-Ad...qid=1532675645&sr=1-6&keywords=primochill+lrt

I honestly prefer colored tubing > colored Coolant.
Depending on your cpu block and if it has nickle, you maybe able to get away with straight distilled, so colored tubing might be a better option if you want some bling.

Your reservoir will most likely be hidden in the rear compartment of the tower 900 if you decide that case, so the coolant will most likely never be seen.

Fans...
Now your best choice is the GT's as i said.
Another great choice is the Noctua IPPC 2k or 3k.

A terrible choice is TT ring... or Corsair fans or heaven forbid Aptiva fans, or anything that looks like cheap generic fans.


Do not watch youtube video's of Jay2Cents / Bitwit as most of there builds now are advance using hard tubing.
Hard tubing is a completely different build and one i do not recommend until you have built a couple of systems and understand how to handle a leak management.

The tower 900 case will make things easier for you if something leaks, because most of the h2o gear is in the rear.
So it wont spill all over your gpu if you puncture your radiator or accidentally spill.

Do not puncture your radiator with the screws... always visualize how far you can screw it in with 1 fan first and remember not to go any further.... The fans do not need extreme mounting pressure on the rads.

Messure twice and cut one... i highly recommend you pick up a tube cutter like this as it will make cutting tubing a LOT easier.
https://www.amazon.com/Barrow-Soft-...qid=1532676058&sr=1-10&keywords=tubing+cutter

You may also want a psu like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Coolerguys-1...676152&sr=1-3&keywords=12V+molex+power+supply

so you can bleed the system.
There are other ways like jump starting the PSU with a paper clip or bypass, however i am really lazy and i hate unplugging everything after i have spent a lot of time doing cable management.

I also sort of hate doing that to an expensive power supply, as you will need to flash it on and off several times to bleed.
Its far easier IMO to use those guys and leave your PSU in your main system as it is.

You can get more complex by using 90's and other fittings, hwoever ultimately you will go back to compression because those don't require you to use clamps.

make sure you hand tighten and do not over tighten.
The Oring seals... not the thread, and never use threaded tape because it can get loose and lodge in your pump and damage more stuff.

Straight distilled is always the best coolant... If you do not have nickle or you do not care about your nickle flaking i recommend you use a kill coil.
https://www.amazon.com/Silver-Coils...d=1532676429&sr=1-2&keywords=silver+kill+coil

Fun fact... i am one of the co founders of the silver kill coil when i projected a pal named Iandh in making them as a reusable, anti microbe over at XS forums... but they are again getting phased out because of the shotty nickle plating job manufactors have done over the years...

I also go by the name Naekuh
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?205651-Iandh-Silver-Coils
^ thats when i showed them off for the first time ever.

Ummm Remember loop order only matters when you have a large heat source... excess of 350-400W.
That means in a loop, flow is uniform, pressure is not. Flow is what determines your carrying potential... pressure only matters when you have restrictions. However too much flow... you will hit that wall of diminished returns.
The parts i listed are not what i would consider highly restrictive, so you do not need to worry about pressure, but more flow.

So in short.. in you loop, it will not matter if you pump -> cpu -> rad vs Pump -> rad -> cpu...
There is no such thing as if it stays in the rad longer the coolant gets cooler... <--- this is a complete myth i seriously laugh when i read people preaching this...
Think of heat as cargo... water is pick up trucks... you want more trucks to pick up cargo at a faster rate (flow).
My statement in regards to flow determining your carry potential...

I guess that is it... if you have anymore questions feel free to ask, im sure someone if not me can give u some insights.
It also is fun to draw up loop order and design for your system.

 

[Hendrickson]

I'll second that recommendation on the Tower 900. It's really a great case that is easy for a beginner to work in, but will also allow more experienced water coolers to do some cool and interesting stuff, so it will grow with you if you want to continue to expand your water cooling skills. You wont find anything with more water cooling support unless you want to drop some serious cash on a Caselabs case or maybe one of the major manufacturers $1000 halo cases.

 

[Markfw]

What do you think of this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IAC7NV...a941-b3ae5230908c&ie=UTF8&qid=1532728098&sr=3
XSPC RX480 Radiator V3 for Computer Water Cooling Systems (NEW Version 3)

Looking for 2 of the biggest I can find that will fit that 900 case. I will be adding 2 or 3 1080TI or 1180/1180* or TI later. I am hoping the one rad might do the 500 watts needed for the 2990x (32c/64t) and the other would do 2 or 3 of the video cards.

BTW, this is all folding.BOINC, so NO SLI

Oh, I think I found what I am looking for ! The 560 is the biggest rad the 900 can carry, and they are 60mm thick, thicker than any others I have seen. So what do you think of this one ??
https://www.amazon.com/Alphacool-Ne...532731943&sr=8-20&keywords=radiator+alphacool

 

[aigomorla]

120x1 radiator ~ 150W @ 1gpm flow @ 1300rpm ~ 3C-5C delta coolant temp - ambient air temp.

480 radiator = 4 x 120 = 600W at conditions listed above.

Again unless u intend on getting those 30 dollar noctua 140mm fans, id honestly stick with a 480 over a 560.

3 GPU -> id suggest going dual loops.
Basically one loop for cpu, and the other for gpu.... which would require u getting another pump res + the required compression barbs.

 

[StefanR5R]

I will be adding 2 or 3 1080TI or 1180/1180* or TI later.

As you perhaps recall, all my GPU hosts for BOINC and F@H are watercooled, mainly in order to concentrate GPUs in fewer hosts while keeping the noise down. Low GPU core temperatures and thus somewhat lower voltages = better efficiency than with air cooled GPUs is a positive side effect.

Dual 1080Ti systems:

• Two have merely a thick 360 radiator + a slim 240 radiator. This is sufficient for cooling but requires high fan speeds. Maybe I'll rebuild them, but would have to use bigger cases, and reorganize my shelves where I placed most of the DC hosts.
• One has a thick 360 radiator + medium 420 radiator. This is very quiet and cools very well. Case of this system is a Thermaltake Core V51, front fascia and drive cages removed. I don't care for its questionable aesthetics, side window, and mediocre-to-low quality, but I took it because it is able to hold these radiators. Downside: It is too large for my computer shelf.

Triple 1080Ti system:

• Single loop, which means that the pump must run at a quite high speed. It has an external MO-RA3 360 which does all the cooling with ease and quietly, and an internal medium 280 radiator to provide for some additional temperature delta in the middle of the loop.

While the MO-RA's performance is impressive, the dual GPU systems with internal radiators are easier to carry around and stick into a shelf.

I use neoprene tubing, D5 PWM pumps, distilled water + Glysantin.

For me, watercooling makes only sense for dual/triple GPU systems. I would strap a large air cooler onto the GPU of a single GPU system if I had one, and my CPU-only systems all have large tower coolers.

Big tower coolers for TR/TR2 are not available yet, but have been announced.

Messure twice and cut one... i highly recommend you pick up a tube cutter like this as it will make cutting tubing a LOT easier.
https://www.amazon.com/Barrow-Soft-...qid=1532676058&sr=1-10&keywords=tubing+cutter

You may also want a psu like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Coolerguys-1...676152&sr=1-3&keywords=12V+molex+power+supply

I have a similar cutter and power supply, and find them very convenient.

 

[Markfw]

OK, so I know the Enermax is crap, I am eliminating all of them in my house, RMA or not. Question is, does a custom water loop with a 360 radiator work better than an AIO 360 radiator kit ?

Edit: changing gears, as since I have so many computers, and I looked at the specs on that 900, and I have no place to put it. The Fractal design R6 is what I now have, and the best I can put in that is a 360, and a 280. Would those be better than a 360 AIO if I put them in series ? (CPU only, the 2990WX monster 32 core/64t)

 

[aigomorla]

RMA or not. Question is, does a custom water loop with a 360 radiator work better than an AIO 360 radiator kit ?

considering that a AIO pump can bearly maintain a flow of less then .25gpm....
And how flow determines the carrying potential of a LCS.

So yes, a custom LCS is substantially better then an AIO. Because i dont think an AIO can pull numbers i listed below.

120x1 radiator ~ 150W @ 1gpm flow @ 1300rpm ~ 3C-5C delta coolant temp - ambient air temp.

So u see... from my statement above why we all suggest you aim for somewhere between 1-1.5gpm... because anything after 1.5 is considered extreme diminished returns.

But again a custom LCS is a lot more expensive then a AIO.... like 2-3x more expensive.

 

[Markfw]

OK, I know it all makes sense to you, but for the simple beginner, if I want to dissipate a possible 600 watt load (OC'ed 2990WX) and keep it under 60c, will a good 360 rad and a good pump with a water block you recommended, work for me ?

 

[Fir]

600W really needs a PAIR of 360 rads to be cool, it's a lot of power. You want your fluid to be as close to ambient as possible. You really can't go overkill in this department especially if you add GPUs and VRM blocks to the mix.

EK makes some kits but these are tailored around typical 4-6 core+GPU workloads. Good news is you can always add radiators. The D5 pump can handle them unless you're doing multiple MORAs, etc. Then you need either dual D5 or dare I say RD30?! Gulp.

 

[Markfw]

How about this setup for CPU ONLY ? The 600 watt is a guess.

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[Markfw]

Well, I ordered the above, along with 3 2150 rpm of those gentle typhoon fans. Almost $600. I hope its worth it.

 

[StefanR5R]

600W really needs a PAIR of 360 rads to be cool,

Sounds right to me.

As I noted in #15, a ~100 W CPU + dual 250 W GPUs can be barely cooled with a 360 x 60 mm plus 240 x 28 mm radiator. But a 360 x 60 mm plus 420 x 45 mm radiator work well for this thermal load.

 

[Markfw]

NO GPU on the water cooling for now.

 

[Fir]

It's a good start. Temps will be outstanding out the gate. Under continuous loads they will be highly dependent on final coolant temp as always. Add more rad area, lower the coolant temp gets. There is thought that doubling up fans or using 4000 RPM fans (LOUD!) will help but only a little. The noise will drive you nuts. You will have a simple circuit for cooling so you don't have to worry much about your pump. Adding a rad or two down the road is simple and very effective. Cooling power well beyond any AIO can do. There are expandable ones such as Swiftech but once you use it and expand on it you realize that you could have done better with the money spent down the road. Like a stereo, components always are better than all in one.

 

[Markfw]

It's a good start. Temps will be outstanding out the gate. Under continuous loads they will be highly dependent on final coolant temp as always. Add more rad area, lower the coolant temp gets. There is thought that doubling up fans or using 4000 RPM fans (LOUD!) will help but only a little. The noise will drive you nuts. You will have a simple circuit for cooling so you don't have to worry much about your pump. Adding a rad or two down the road is simple and very effective. Cooling power well beyond any AIO can do. There are expandable ones such as Swiftech but once you use it and expand on it you realize that you could have done better with the money spent down the road. Like a stereo, components always are better than all in one.

So, if I got a 240 rad like this: https://www.amazon.com/XSPC-RX240-R...1-7&keywords=water+cooling+radiator+koolertek
and put it in series, would it help a lot ? (278x56x130)