There are not many TR4 waterblocks.
However you must get a TR4 waterblock because of how large the die is on TR4.
XSPC Raystorm Neo:
https://www.amazon.com/XSPC-Raystorm-Waterblock-Threadripper-Socket/dp/B0758GHWZ6
eK Supremacy sTR4:
https://www.amazon.com/EKWB-EK-Supr...44226&sr=1-2&keywords=threadripper+waterblock
koolance 400A-S Thread Ripper:
http://koolance.com/processor-water-block-amd-threadripper-cpu-400a-s
Swiftech SKF-TR4:
http://www.swiftech.com/apogee-skf-tr4-heirloom-series.aspx
Watercool Heatkiller IV Pro TR4
https://www.amazon.com/Watercool-HEATKILLER-Waterblock-Threadripper-Socket/dp/B07CZZFTWB
As for what is the best?
They will all perform close to one another so honestly now go with whatever you think looks the nicest in your case layout.
You seriously wont miss the couple C's advantage/disadvange they have on each other more then bling factor they present in your case layout.
You can get nickle plated gear and mix with copper, as its perfectly acceptable..
You can not however mix aluminum and copper together, as that spells doom even if you have a sacrificial node like Thermaltake pacifica garbage. AVOID THERMALTAKE BLOCKS / RADS PERIOD.
Nickle will not tarnish and turn brown like copper does, this is one reason why a lot of people like nickle. However nickle tends to flake over time as water is abrasive, and when you have flow over it, it will flake, unless you have a super nickle plate process like what swiftech used to do.. ( i dont know if they still do so now).
You can not mix Nickle and Silver as it will cause the nickle to oxidize faster then intended, and it will accelerate the flaking.
If your running a all copper (no nickle) loop, i highly recommend you drop in a pure 99.9999 silver coil, (NOT STERLING) and use distilled water as coolant.
If you like colors, then you will need to go with dyes and premixes.
I like Alphacool NeXXos XT radiators because of the ginormous port options, and full copper.
I like XSPC RX series also because they are known in our hobby as top tier as well.
Personally i would go for Alphacool first if i needed a new radiator.
I do not like EK rads, because again, they are overpriced for what you honestly get.... go with a Alphacool NeXXos XT if your completely lost.
I like 120mm rads more then 140mm rads, because unless your going to pair that 140mm rad with noctua 140mm IPP's you wont have good fan options for it.
https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-Beari...=1532546363&sr=1-4&keywords=noctua+140mm+ippc
Nidac Gentle Typhoons are THE BEST fans for rads, period.
https://www.coolerguys.com/products...50-1850-2150-and-4250-rpm?variant=17667278149
Liang D5 is known for reliability and Quiet.
Liang DDC is known for performance.
If you dont want something that sounds like a mosquito buzzing around, get a D5.
XSPC and eK will use real Liang D5's.
Becareful of the Chinese Knockoff D5's running around.
A REAL D5 has a stainless impeller housing and is not Plastic
vs a Fake Lorwa which tends to cost 2/3rds a real... Barrow uses Fake D5's:
The real D5's are quieter, and more reliable... in my collection of 10+ yrs D5, i have not lost one yet... that is how reliable they are.
If you go compression fittings, make sure you match the tubing designed for it exactly.
Premixes is a scam in 90% of most cases, as you can replicate it using propyl glycol and distilled water in a 2:8 mixture. I tend to only recommend premix if it has a color, or the aura effect mayhem has in its premix coolant.
If its your first time watercooling, stay away from rigid tubing / PETG hard pipe / Acrylic pipes, as it will be a headache if you need to either swap something out, or do maintance on because of the need to drain your loop.
You need good planning for hard pipe systems, and they are not meant for the beginner, or even a novice.
Whatever budget you had intended, expect to need to double it, unless you already set a large budget.
A typical good H2O build can easily break you around 400-600 dollars....
Do not cheap a Custom H2O build as it will be far better to just go AIR or a simple AIO, then have to mess with a hybridized Custom loop.
GPU watercooling is more benifical then CPU watercooling.
Example, my 1080ti idles at 30C and loads at 40C with a 480 radiator running 4 Nidac GT's @ 1850RPM.
This is with mosfet being cooled under a cold plate. If your going to watercool your GPU, get a eVGA waterblock for your FTW3.
eK makes nice stuff, however i feel they are too overpriced.
Avoid Bsykzi, they are OK, however you will need additional parts sometimes. The QC on them is horrible IMO.
Barrow makes REALLY NICE stuff for more realistic prices.
Bitspower will break your wallet, so i tend to not get them anymore, you can find a Barrow counterpart for 2/3rds the price.
If you can not pronounce the vendor, DONT BUY IT, as it will leak or QC will be so horrible, that you will have to rebuy a barrow product.
Thermaltake is thermal junk, so just say no.
Koolance is OK now, they were bad back in pre 2007, but they changed a lot especially in terms of cpu and gpu waterblocks.,