First off, I just want to tell you what I have. I drive a 2004 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD. I have (4) Rocksford Fosgate P35 Punch compacted 4ohm 300W/ 600W (RMS/PEAK) subwoofers. I have these bridged and running to a Kicker 1200W 2 channel Class D Mono Amplifier. (Handles up to 600W RMS (continuous) @ 4 ohms or 1200W RMS @ 2 ohms). Also I have a Dual XPR540 4 channel amp running the kicker door speakers.
The Problem:
Everything sounds good and plays well at low volumes. This means barely anything from the subwoofers. Immediately when you turn volume up including bass, the bass will cut out or just turn the amp into protective mode. I used a multimeter to test the amp and it seems like every time the bass will hit hard it is dropping my voltage from 13v- 10-11v. I have done almost everything I have researched. The grounds are great! They are screwed to the frame with multiple self tapping screws and very snug. All connections are tight and nothing else seems wrong. Like I mentioned, the subs will bump at low volumes only. Now I have also installed a dual battery, yellow top deep cycle Optima battery and a bigger alternator with a smaller belt for more power. Those both did absolutely nothing. Another weird occurrence is when this bass hits hard, it will shut amp off, my odometer and instrument cluster, and the JVC head unit. But the weird thing is it is all like a reset. Everything will turn back on and begin working in about 5-10 seconds. Also when I am playing music at low with subs running, if I pull up on the window buttons (like I'm trying to roll two up at same time), the battery meter rapidly goes down and will also cut the subs out. Oh and I have a capacitor which seemed to do nothing either. Anyways I thought it could be the wiring of the subs (they were done at Best Buy like 3yrs ago by their Geek Squad) because they were {2 of them bridged (positive/negative together) then positive to positive, negative to negative, then ran to amp. So I've been running 4 bridged subs to this to channel amp. So I researched a little and the specs on the amp and it said not to bridge the subs. So then I researched what to do and a video told me to (parallel) them. So I did this to one sub,{ positive to positive, negative negative, then a positive and negative wire directly to the amp.} I tried it and the sub would concave in more and put out a little more bass, but still when bass hits hard, it will shut amp off, my odometer and instrument cluster, and the JVC head unit. I literally took it all apart and checked connections, grounds and everything and everything seems fine. Ill attach a picture of my set up so you all can see what it looks like. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Ive been dealing with this for almost 3yrs trying to find a solution.
NOTE: The picture of system is after I re-wired the single sub, that is why the exposed speaker wire is not connected.
The Problem:
Everything sounds good and plays well at low volumes. This means barely anything from the subwoofers. Immediately when you turn volume up including bass, the bass will cut out or just turn the amp into protective mode. I used a multimeter to test the amp and it seems like every time the bass will hit hard it is dropping my voltage from 13v- 10-11v. I have done almost everything I have researched. The grounds are great! They are screwed to the frame with multiple self tapping screws and very snug. All connections are tight and nothing else seems wrong. Like I mentioned, the subs will bump at low volumes only. Now I have also installed a dual battery, yellow top deep cycle Optima battery and a bigger alternator with a smaller belt for more power. Those both did absolutely nothing. Another weird occurrence is when this bass hits hard, it will shut amp off, my odometer and instrument cluster, and the JVC head unit. But the weird thing is it is all like a reset. Everything will turn back on and begin working in about 5-10 seconds. Also when I am playing music at low with subs running, if I pull up on the window buttons (like I'm trying to roll two up at same time), the battery meter rapidly goes down and will also cut the subs out. Oh and I have a capacitor which seemed to do nothing either. Anyways I thought it could be the wiring of the subs (they were done at Best Buy like 3yrs ago by their Geek Squad) because they were {2 of them bridged (positive/negative together) then positive to positive, negative to negative, then ran to amp. So I've been running 4 bridged subs to this to channel amp. So I researched a little and the specs on the amp and it said not to bridge the subs. So then I researched what to do and a video told me to (parallel) them. So I did this to one sub,{ positive to positive, negative negative, then a positive and negative wire directly to the amp.} I tried it and the sub would concave in more and put out a little more bass, but still when bass hits hard, it will shut amp off, my odometer and instrument cluster, and the JVC head unit. I literally took it all apart and checked connections, grounds and everything and everything seems fine. Ill attach a picture of my set up so you all can see what it looks like. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Ive been dealing with this for almost 3yrs trying to find a solution.
NOTE: The picture of system is after I re-wired the single sub, that is why the exposed speaker wire is not connected.