Abit IP35-E Review (500MHz FSB board)...$90 @ NewEgg + $6.61 ship

[SerpentRoyal]

Originally posted by: bretto
Apparently my PSU wasn't my problem. My board went back to not booting. It was running fine for 2 days with xp installed then all the sudden went back to what it had been doing and won't boot at all. What could be messed up that it only sometimes boots? I'm tired of messing with all these issues so I think I will just RMA it and hope the next board won't have these problems.

List your components, again.

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Originally posted by: Jagercola
Ok guys, I'm overclocking a Q6600 B3 with a TT120-Ultra and IP35-E motherboard. Now I've been overclocking since the days of Athlon XP's and never seen this issue before. When ever I manually change the CPU Vcore in the bios to say 1.35, it remains at 1.22-1.24 in the bios and 1.26 in the latest beta CPU-Z. Same thing when I change the Vcore to 1.45 in the bios. Now, all the other voltages I can control on the IP35-E change in the monitoring whenever I change their settings. It's just the Vcore holding me back since it doesn't seem to be changing. I figured out the hard way my Q6600 can do 3.0ghz on stock volts even though I thought I was giving it more. I want to hit 3.2ghz, but need to be able to change the vcore. Should I reflash the bios? I'm running 1.1, but maybe my board has a bum copy. Other stuff in my system is 4gb of HP DDR2 and a Antec 850W PS.

Thanks!

Fix: Took battery out and loaded the optimal defaults, then it worked. Guess it is good practice to do this on new boards.

You may also see lower voltage when C1E and EIST are enabled. These are power-saving features build into the chip. Run Orthos and the voltage and core speed will return close to BIOS settings.

 

[Sunbeam65]

I'm building a $4K-$6K rig and I think I'm going to go with the ASUS Blitz Formula (Special Edition), unless the ABIT IP35 reviews are super good.

It makes me sad not to go with an NVIDIA 680i SLI dual video solution such as EVGA A1 but there's too many rumors of NVIDIA chipset instability.

IS THIS STILL TRUE???, or has NVIDIA 680i chipset quality stabalized?

Am I making a good decision here?

 

[Moogoo112]

i purchased a ip35-e and intel e2140 and overclocked for the first time today... question, i cant boot up anything past 346 fsb w/ 8x multiplier and i tried w/ 6x multiplier and i have my ram at 1:1 jus to make sure its not my ram slowing me down. i tried raising cpu volt to 1.6 and ram to 2.1 but nothing. is this a fsb wall that i read about? on the processor or the mobo? thanks btw im on retail cooler

 

[Heidfirst]

Originally posted by: Sunbeam65
I'm building a $4K-$6K rig and I think I'm going to go with the ASUS Blitz Formula (Special Edition), unless the ABIT IP35 reviews are super good.

Tbh I don't think that the Blitz is worth the extra money for what you get plus there are plenty of people killing them with bad flashes (Asus seem to be soldering BIOS chips these days rather than socketing).
For that budget you might want to consider X38 chipset boards due in ~2 weeks- 1 month.

 

[bretto]

Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal

Originally posted by: bretto
Apparently my PSU wasn't my problem. My board went back to not booting. It was running fine for 2 days with xp installed then all the sudden went back to what it had been doing and won't boot at all. What could be messed up that it only sometimes boots? I'm tired of messing with all these issues so I think I will just RMA it and hope the next board won't have these problems.

List your components, again.

I have a E4400, 2gb Ballistix ddr2 800, IP35-E, XFX 7900gs, Corsair 520hx.
I've tried all of my components (other than mobo) in another computer, and I've tried different ram, cpu, video card, and psu with the IP35-E. I've taken it out of the case and reset the cmos multiple times, but nothing helps. The ram voltages are at the correct settings, but it doesn't matter if they weren't because even my 1.8v ram won't boot with it.

 

[Blacklash]

Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal
All stock voltages except for Vcore? Solid engineering principles beat bells and whistles, again.

I raised the MCH to 1.37v, however as I said, even the mighty Thermalright Ultra Extreme can't deal with the heat dump @ 3.8GHz on 1.52v

I am thinking about doing the following-



D-Tek FuZion - Water Block
Thermochill PA 120.3 - Radiator
Swiftech MCP655 - Pump
3x Sharkoon Silent Eagle fans
1/2" ID Tygon Tubing
Swiftech MCB-120 "RADBOX"
Danger Den Delrin Fillport
1/2" T Fitting
Swiftech 2oz HydrX Liquid Coolant + 1L Distilled Water
10x 1/2" Worm Drive Clamps



I have been fighting moving to water cooling for a long time and I really want that next level so I will probably go for it.

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Originally posted by: Moogoo112
i purchased a ip35-e and intel e2140 and overclocked for the first time today... question, i cant boot up anything past 346 fsb w/ 8x multiplier and i tried w/ 6x multiplier and i have my ram at 1:1 jus to make sure its not my ram slowing me down. i tried raising cpu volt to 1.6 and ram to 2.1 but nothing. is this a fsb wall that i read about? on the processor or the mobo? thanks btw im on retail cooler

List your RAM. Reset CMOS. Use 1:1 memory divider and manually set Vdimm to 2.0 or 2.1 with 5-5-5-15 timing. Limit Vcore to 1.465V. Run Memtest86 test #5 for one hour to check RAM. If okay, then you may be at the limit of this CPU.

E2140 should top out between 2.8 and 3.0GHz due to the 8x multi. You may have a bum chip.

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Originally posted by: bretto

Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal

Originally posted by: bretto
Apparently my PSU wasn't my problem. My board went back to not booting. It was running fine for 2 days with xp installed then all the sudden went back to what it had been doing and won't boot at all. What could be messed up that it only sometimes boots? I'm tired of messing with all these issues so I think I will just RMA it and hope the next board won't have these problems.

List your components, again.

I have a E4400, 2gb Ballistix ddr2 800, IP35-E, XFX 7900gs, Corsair 520hx.
I've tried all of my components (other than mobo) in another computer, and I've tried different ram, cpu, video card, and psu with the IP35-E. I've taken it out of the case and reset the cmos multiple times, but nothing helps. The ram voltages are at the correct settings, but it doesn't matter if they weren't because even my 1.8v ram won't boot with it.

Strip the board bare. Connect only mouse and keyboard. Is the boot issue related to windows, only? Can you access BIOS? Take the battery out for 1/2 day. Put the CMOS jumper in clear position. Unplug PSU. Retest.

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Originally posted by: Blacklash

Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal
All stock voltages except for Vcore? Solid engineering principles beat bells and whistles, again.

I raised the MCH to 1.37v, however as I said, even the mighty Thermalright Ultra Extreme can't deal with the heat dump @ 3.8GHz on 1.52v

I am thinking about doing the following-



D-Tek FuZion - Water Block
Thermochill PA 120.3 - Radiator
Swiftech MCP655 - Pump
3x Sharkoon Silent Eagle fans
1/2" ID Tygon Tubing
Swiftech MCB-120 "RADBOX"
Danger Den Delrin Fillport
1/2" T Fitting
Swiftech 2oz HydrX Liquid Coolant + 1L Distilled Water
10x 1/2" Worm Drive Clamps



I have been fighting moving to water cooling for a long time and I really want that next level so I will probably go for it.

A one notch bump @ NB and SB should be good enough for 450-480MHz FSB with CD. Too much juice with heat up the chip and possibly result in system instability. Perhaps you need more voltage with Quads.

 

[sprtfan]

Just a heads up that Mwave has the IP35-E back with a new rebate good until 9/30 for $70 AR +shipping. They also have the IP35 with a rebate until 9/10 for $105 AR+shipping. The IP35-E is probably the better buy but if you want raid, firewire, +ect you can get it on the IP35 for $35 more.

 

[dukpoki]

hey guys this is a great thread filled with lots of info as this will be my first attempt to building my own computer. I just recently acquired this particular mobo and would like to know one thing. Would a zalman 9700 fit on this or no? what is everyone using for theirs (cooler)? thanks.


these are the components i have bought so far:
antec nine hundred case
corsair 520hx power supply
abit ip35-e motherboard
ocz platinum ddr2 800 2gb dual channel rev.2
seagate 300gb 16mb sata/300 ST3300622ASRK
bfg geforce 7900 gs 256mb

only things left i believe are the main processor(looking into quads), cooler, and dvd drive.

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Deleted.

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Originally posted by: dukpoki
hey guys this is a great thread filled with lots of info as this will be my first attempt to building my own computer. I just recently acquired this particular mobo and would like to know one thing. Would a zalman 9700 fit on this or no? what is everyone using for theirs (cooler)? thanks.


these are the components i have bought so far:
antec nine hundred case
corsair 520hx power supply
abit ip35-e motherboard
ocz platinum ddr2 800 2gb dual channel rev.2
seagate 300gb 16mb sata/300 ST3300622ASRK
bfg geforce 7900 gs 256mb

only things left i believe are the main processor(looking into quads), cooler, and dvd drive.

Yes. Same with Big Typhoon and TR's Ultra 90/120.

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal

Originally posted by: sprtfan
Just a heads up that Mwave has the IP35-E back with a new rebate good until 9/30 for $70 AR +shipping. They also have the IP35 with a rebate until 9/10 for $105 AR+shipping. The IP35-E is probably the better buy but if you want raid, firewire, +ect you can get it on the IP35 for $35 more.

I didn't see the new rebate. Can you please provide a link?

Also note that the IP35's MOSFET's temperature will probably be higher than IP35-E because the MOSFET and NB are linked together via one heat pipe. The hot NB heat sink will heat up the MOSFET heat sink. Quads will probably push the temperature at the MOSFET region to +70F.

TIA,
F

 

[sprtfan]

Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal

Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal

Originally posted by: sprtfan
Just a heads up that Mwave has the IP35-E back with a new rebate good until 9/30 for $70 AR +shipping. They also have the IP35 with a rebate until 9/10 for $105 AR+shipping. The IP35-E is probably the better buy but if you want raid, firewire, +ect you can get it on the IP35 for $35 more.

I didn't see the new rebate. Can you please provide a link?

Also note that the IP35's MOSFET's temperature will probably be higher than IP35-E because the MOSFET and NB are linked together via one heat pipe. The hot NB heat sink will heat up the MOSFET heat sink. Quads will probably push the temperature at the MOSFET region to +70F.

TIA,
F

I noticed that the rebates links have not been updated yet. The title for both of the motherboards has been updated to indicate that there were new rebates that started on 9/01. They probably will post them soon, but if you want to be safe it would be best to call or wait until the new rebate is up.

 

[sprtfan]

Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal

Also note that the IP35's MOSFET's temperature will probably be higher than IP35-E because the MOSFET and NB are linked together via one heat pipe. The hot NB heat sink will heat up the MOSFET heat sink. Quads will probably push the temperature at the MOSFET region to +70F.

TIA,
F

[/quote]

I have already ordered a IP35-E for one computer. I wouldn't mind having raid on my other one though. Do you think I would be better off getting another IP35-E and putting the extra $35 toward a raid card? I wouldn't need any thing special since I just like to run a mirrored drive as an extra step in protection for important files and pictures. I normally keeped those backed up on disk too but not everytime I update or add pictures. I'd like to know if there would be better options than raid as well. Thanks

 

[Blacklash]

Hey SR I lowered the NB voltage like you said and raised the vcore to 1.65v

http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=237448

http://m1.freeshare.us/172fs691352.jpg

I have really got to go water this chip has potential. I left C1E and EIST on lolz.

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Originally posted by: sprtfan

Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal

Also note that the IP35's MOSFET's temperature will probably be higher than IP35-E because the MOSFET and NB are linked together via one heat pipe. The hot NB heat sink will heat up the MOSFET heat sink. Quads will probably push the temperature at the MOSFET region to +70F.

TIA,
F

I have already ordered a IP35-E for one computer. I wouldn't mind having raid on my other one though. Do you think I would be better off getting another IP35-E and putting the extra $35 toward a raid card? I wouldn't need any thing special since I just like to run a mirrored drive as an extra step in protection for important files and pictures. I normally keeped those backed up on disk too but not everytime I update or add pictures. I'd like to know if there would be better options than raid as well. Thanks[/quote]

If you must have RAID, then it would be better to spend a little $ on a quality RAID card.

I use multiple partitions for backup. The OS resides in one small/fast HDD. All other data are stored in another HDD. I can quickly image the OS (900MB to 1.5GB) in about 2 minutes by writing the image file to a second partition on the 2nd HDD. You can also image the data in the 2nd HDD.

Most of the issues with windows are related to the OS partition. I also change my HDD every 4 to 5 years.

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Originally posted by: Blacklash
Hey SR I lowered the NB voltage like you said and raised the vcore to 1.65v

http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=237448

http://m1.freeshare.us/172fs691352.jpg

I have really got to go water this chip has potential. I left C1E and EIST on lolz.

Try default VNB and VSB with only 445MHz FSB. The goal is too keep voltage as low as possible when you run at high FSB to avoid overheating. And yes, the MB should remain stable as long as you have sufficient voltage for the CPU and the RAM. Run Memtest86 test #5 for about ten loops for a quick stability test.

Any number on PWM as reported by AbitEQ?

 

[SSD]

I just finished setting up a new computer with the IP35E and have had no significant problems. The system is very stable and all the drivers installed without a hitch. I went back to play a little to see what the new E2160 would do and I can not get the external clock changes in the Bios to take once I am in windows. The POST screen shows the computed overclocked speed when booting, but CPUz shows the stock speed. The benchmarks also show the same performance as the stock speed. I can manipulate voltages, memory timings and change the multiplier and CPUz will pick up the changes. The benchmarks also show small variations due to changes in the memory timing and CPU multiplier. But again, when I change the external clock to Overclock the CPU it does not work. The BIOS appears to be doing its job but it is not being implemented. Is there any ideas out there? I don't want to tear down the system to RMA the board.

Abit IP35E
E2160
Crucial Ballistix
Antec Case and PSU
XFX 7600 GS
WD 250GB
XP Pro SP2

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Originally posted by: SSD
I just finished setting up a new computer with the IP35E and have had no significant problems. The system is very stable and all the drivers installed without a hitch. I went back to play a little to see what the new E2160 would do and I can not get the external clock changes in the Bios to take once I am in windows. The POST screen shows the computed overclocked speed when booting, but CPUz shows the stock speed. The benchmarks also show the same performance as the stock speed. I can manipulate voltages, memory timings and change the multiplier and CPUz will pick up the changes. The benchmarks also show small variations due to changes in the memory timing and CPU multiplier. But again, when I change the external clock to Overclock the CPU it does not work. The BIOS appears to be doing its job but it is not being implemented. Is there any ideas out there? I don't want to tear down the system to RMA the board.

Abit IP35E
E2160
Crucial Ballistix
Antec Case and PSU
XFX 7600 GS
WD 250GB
Edit/Delete Message

Did you installed the Intel chipset driver on the CD? Which OS?

Remove battery for 1/2 hour. Put CMOS in clear position. Replace both items and boot to BIOS. Change FSB to 210MHz. Hit F10 to save. Boot into window and download latest version of CPUz 1.4x. Run Orthos and check reported speed in CPUz. Post a screen shot of CPUz if you still have problem.

 

[Blacklash]

I'll worry about stability when I get it under water. No way air is going to handle 4.0GHz on 1.65v. except maybe outside in Scandinavia during the winter.

My PWM is @ 62C under load doing prime95 @ 3.7GHz 1.52v. My house is around 23C ambient. I didn't bother trying prime @ 4.0GHz 1.65v because I know it will fail the test with just air cooling.

Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal

Originally posted by: Blacklash
Hey SR I lowered the NB voltage like you said and raised the vcore to 1.65v

http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=237448

http://m1.freeshare.us/172fs691352.jpg

I have really got to go water this chip has potential. I left C1E and EIST on lolz.

Try default VNB and VSB with only 445MHz FSB. The goal is too keep voltage as low as possible when you run at high FSB to avoid overheating. And yes, the MB should remain stable as long as you have sufficient voltage for the CPU and the RAM. Run Memtest86 test #5 for about ten loops for a quick stability test.

Any number on PWM as reported by AbitEQ?

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Thanks for the info. Guess I wasn't too far-off with my calculation. Lapping the heat sink and applying a little thermal compound should yield sub 60C PWM. The output devices can easily absorb 70C 24/7. Having a small 80 mm above the NB should further reduce the NB and PWM temps.

 

[SSD]

Thanks Serpent Royal,

Were fully operational now!

I had tried resetting the CMOS and reflashing the BIOS. The difference was made by removing the battery and unplugging from the wall. Lesson learned. It still seems bizarre that the only difficulty with all the BIOS features was the external clock, but its working now.

Has anyone noticed their voltages in CPUz, AbitEq and even the PChealth section of the BIOS are significantly lower than the Voltages set in the BIOS?
I could not do much Overclocking at first, the E2160 would not even do 2.4GHz at default voltage. Even though the BIOS appeared to put the default CPU voltage at 1.32V, CPUz said it was only 1.28V. Actual voltage appears to be .04V below the selected voltage. I stopped at 3.0GHz (333X9) with a selected 1.40V (CPUz 1.36V)(Orthos stable for an hour). The CPU would run at 3.2GHz and 1.42V selected (CPUz 1.38V). But since I am running stock cooling the little gal was getting a little warm under load.

I have gone back and enabled the heat/power saving features and it doesn't seem to effect the stability. Now it drops to 2GHz and 1.26V or so at Idle which definitely helps the temps, I have been doing assorted tasks, intermingled with some short Orthos Sessions and I have not encountered any errors.


Thanks again