Abit IP35-E Review (500MHz FSB board)...$90 @ NewEgg + $6.61 ship

[SerpentRoyal]

Originally posted by: WEW
Need some help, I got the Abit IP35-E today, I am testing it out so I took out my Pentium D from my Dell E510, cleaned the thermal paste some of those wipe it tissues. Placed it in the Abit, connected my Dell PS, took it out my dell, then also put one stick of ram, and the video card.

Now, im new to this, how do i power it on to try the motherboard out I thought there would be a connector/button i could press, do I need to take out my Antec P180 and connect it in there.

Note: I dont have a heatsink yet, so I just wanted to try out the motherboard to make sure it work, ive just placed the CPU only, is that fine? Thanks

DO NOT boot without heatsink. Check the Abit CPU compatibility chart before booting. It's best to wait for a C2D chip. Shorting the two POWER PINS at the MB's header with a screwdriver will start the board.

 

[Blacklash]

Originally posted by: Aharami

Originally posted by: Blacklash

Originally posted by: Aharami
any way to make orthos test all 4 cores? I heard you can open up two instances of orthos and that will get all 4 cores going. I did just that and ran both but still only the first 2 cores were being used

Just use prime95, it gets 'em all.

I believe folks that use Orthos for quad set its affinity for all cores.

how do i set affinity for all cores? I dont see any setting for that.

Open orthos yet do not start it. Ctrl + alt + del should open your task manager. Click on the processes tab, under it orthos should be listed. Right click it and select set affinity from the drop down menu. Make sure all cores are ticked.

BTW I'd agree with folks that said beware of Newegg reviews, not only are some folks clueless some troll hardware they don't even own!

 

[rbk123]

Any reason to go from Bios 11 to 12 on this board? Is 12 faster?

 

[WEW]

It's a good thing I didnt boot without heatsink, I get the heatsink today and then will try. Where is the CPU compatability chart, I googled and went on their site couldnt find it. The main reason I bought this board was to reuse the same processor I had in my Dell, I hope it works. My processor is a Pentium D 820 2.8ghz, the dual core one.

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Originally posted by: hokiealumnus
WOW this board is impressive. I've changed the BIOS a few times and remembered yesterday that I'd forgotten to use the proper switches (/wb) the last time I went to beta 13. So, since 12 is faster anyway, I decided to flash back to it. Then, for the heck of it, I started experimenting. Starting w/ 2.5GHz, I stepped it up in 100MHz increments.

I'm not sure if it's my board, or if my processor was made on a good week or what, but THIS is my most recent result.

You may notice that this looks almost identical to the last one I posted. Take note of the Vcore setting in CoreTemp and, while you're at it, what it's actually running at in Speedfan & CPU-z.

That's right...I got 300MHz FSB w/ 10x multi at DEFAULT 1.325Vcore!!

Simply unbelievable. Previously, I had needed to increase to 1.345 to get above (and to) 2.5GHz. I don't know what exactly happened between flashes, but I like it! Not increasing the voltage saves me a good 2C at that speed. This board (which I paid a whopping $69.99 AR for) never ceases to amaze. Best $70 I've spent in many years.

50% should be able to hit 3.0GHz at stock voltage. A good chip can go up to about 3.6GHz with 1.5Vcore. Heat will be the major bottleneck for higher speed.

It's best to clear CMOS after final assembly to bring MB back to factory configuration. The major hurdle to high clock speed is RAM stability. Once you have the proper memory divider, voltage, and timing, then you only need to raise Vcore and FSB to overclock the CPU. No need to tweak other settings unless your FSB is north of 430MHz.

I like to start out at 1.465V to discover the maximum core speed, then gradually lower Vcore and FSB to keep the CPU temperature under control.

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Originally posted by: rbk123
Any reason to go from Bios 11 to 12 on this board? Is 12 faster?

No speed improvement. However, there are more timing settings, and S1 standby mode.

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Originally posted by: WEW
It's a good thing I didnt boot without heatsink, I get the heatsink today and then will try. Where is the CPU compatability chart, I googled and went on their site couldnt find it. The main reason I bought this board was to reuse the same processor I had in my Dell, I hope it works. My processor is a Pentium D 820 2.8ghz, the dual core one.

http://www.abit.com.tw/cpu-sup...b/intel_p35_ip35-e.htm

CPU should work.

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Originally posted by: Blacklash
There's 3dmark06 on Vista x64 with 4 x 1GB:

http://service.futuremark.com/compare?3dm06=3167024

and for comparison there's my system with 2GB ram and MCE 2005:

http://service.futuremark.com/compare?3dm06=3071586

That's 14264 vs 15013. CPU was 3.74GHz and GTX was @ 659|2040.

EDIT: I increased the ram to 998 for x64 and that raised the score a small amount.

416MHz FSB with Q6600 on air? That's a very good chip. I've seen one head-to-head comparison between -Pro and -E. They were able to hit 400MHz FSB with the Pro board, and only 377MHz FSB with the E board (Q6600 CPU). Make you wonder if these guys are qualified to review MBs. Your result puts a big hole in their review.

From my personal experiences with E4300 (~425MHz FSB) and E6320 (~488MHz FSB), the Pro and E boards were within 1MHz when it comes to overclocking. The E has a big advantage in PWM temperature. The E's separate MOSFET heat sink runs cooler by 7 to 12C.

 

[WEW]

I've run into a problem and need some help, I got the heatsink today, installed it on my CPU, the heatsink fit, but one of the slots is not tight enough, and i cant force it anymore without breaking the motherboard. But its fit as a rock, connected the cord to the fan.

I'm using my Dell E510 PS -- i connected the Antec P180B power cord the PWR and RST and PWRLED to the motherboard, got the one stick of ram, video card, and I power the antec on, i hear the fan of the heatsink kick up. Red light + Green are on the motherboard, then it turns off, then on again with both lights, then off, and then on again, even if I power off the antec power button, it still keeps going. Nothing comes on my LCD.

What am I doing wrong or what has happened? Why wont it stay on??

I've connected the 24 pin ATX cable and the 4 pin as well.

Help!!!

Thanks!!

 

[SerpentRoyal]

I have no idea what your CPU cooler looks like. All push-pin coolers are JUNKS. It's a royal pain to get all four pins seated on the MB. If the cooler is not fully seated, then the CPU may shut off due to overheating.

Be sure to connect the 24/20 and 8/4 power plugs to the MB. Reset the CMOS. If you cannot boot, then take the board outside the case. Strip it bare. Re-install only CPU, one stick of RAM, GPU, mouse, and keyboard. Short the two power pins on MB to boot PC. If PC will not boot, then get a new PSU.

The old HDD must be zero filled before use.

 

[rbk123]

Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal

Originally posted by: rbk123
Anyone use S&M 1.9 and know how to read the monitoring? It looks like the bottom row temperature readings are the accurate ones (it matches Coretemp) but is that for only 1 core? The other rows above it show temps substantially cooler - too much of a difference for it to be the other core.

There should be two lines, one for each core. Run Orthos and you will see a quick pop in temperature. These numbers match with Coretemp to +/-0.5C.

Note that S&M's heat mode (average setting @ 100% load) is a good way to quickly test CPU. It draws about 10% more current than Orthos Large mode.

Here's what I get with the monitoring tab, described in rows from top to bottom:

Current Min Max Threshold
5.19V 5.17V 5.20V 5.20+4%
(blank row2)
29C 29C 30C 30+30
25.6C 25C 40.7C 34+30
37.8C 37C 54.7C 47+30

The bottom row is in a brown font, the others are dark blue.
The bottom 2 row changes constantly and go up when I run Orthos, yet they are always 14-15C apart. This doesn't make any sense to me.

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Which version of windows? Both rows should go up and down, with no more than +/-4C deviation.

 

[conlan]

I received my IP35 today and the AC7 Freezer HSF will fit without trimming by following this quick and easy procedure:

1. Remove the fan assy. from the HS.

2. Gently bend up the corner of the bottom 2 fins that interfere with the NB Cooler, leaving a small gap between the bottom 2 fins and the bottom 3rd fin.

3. Install the HS only on the mobo.

4. Reinstall the fan assy. aligning the bottom of the fan shroud under the bottom 3rd fin, This will relocate the fan assy. slightly higher on the HS providing clearance over the NB HS.

This should not affect cooling as you are only moving the fan assy. up 2 fins.

I'll fire mine up over the weekend and post back how it went.

 

[ArchAngel777]

Not sure what the double post problem is exactily, but here is what I have going on.

My system will not always bootup at 400x8. It will run Orthos just fine while it is in here... But sometimes when I shut the computer off, it will not boot back up until I power off the PSU, unplug it for 10 seconds and then boot it back up. Hitting reset will not post, nor will turning it off and on with the power switch. But if I reset the PSU and unplug it and plug it back in, I can boot up with 400x8 with no issues. I dunno, kinda irritating to be honest.

Anyway, I ended up getting a B3, not a huge deal as I seem to be able to hit my goal of 3.2Ghz. I havn't really tinkered with it more than an hour of orthos and what not. But so far so good...

I am considering the upgrade to the BIOS if it will solve my damn issue...

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Double post = Hit power button on cold start. PC ramps up, stop, then re-start. This process adds about 13 seconds to the total boot time.

What you're describing is probably a PSU issue...funky Antec unit? When you disconnect the PSU from the wall, you're resetting the standby power circuit. Can you duplicate this problem with BIOS at default? If problem goes away, then your Vcore and Vdimm may be too low.

List all your components.

I'd flash to 12 BIOS using the WB switch. Retest.

 

[cleverest]

Originally posted by: conlan
I received my IP35 today and the AC7 Freezer HSF will fit without trimming by following this quick and easy procedure:

1. Remove the fan assy. from the HS.

2. Gently bend up the corner of the bottom 2 fins that interfere with the NB Cooler, leaving a small gap between the bottom 2 fins and the bottom 3rd fin.

3. Install the HS only on the mobo.

4. Reinstall the fan assy. aligning the bottom of the fan shroud under the bottom 3rd fin, This will relocate the fan assy. slightly higher on the HS providing clearance over the NB HS.

This should not affect cooling as you are only moving the fan assy. up 2 fins.

I'll fire mine up over the weekend and post back how it went.

I'm getting my abit tomorrow and I'm going to be using the AC7 Freezer as well...so I'll be trying this out...how is it working for you? Have you heard any explosions yet doing it this way?

- Brett

 

[DAC21]

"Anyway, I ended up getting a B3, not a huge deal as I seem to be able to hit my goal of 3.2Ghz"


What is the significance of B3?. I just received mine today and the sticker on the Board says "B". Bad good or indifferent?


NEVERMIND, I found this is in regards to the Rev of the CPU, not the board

 

[hokiealumnus]

Quick edit to my previous glorification of getting 300FSB w/ default Vcore. After extensively benchmarking the system, I hit a snag and it crashed running the Multimedia Processor test in Sandra. Ah well, temps didn't drop THAT much, and I just modded my case a little bit to help with temps. So....back up to 1.345...still amazing what it's doing with a stock HSF and only one little jump in Vcore!

 

[SerpentRoyal]

The board is very good, but you'll need a good chip to make the rig fly. My E4300 is uber stable at stock voltage (1.325) up to 3.16GHz. Raising Vcore to 1.505 will permit the CPU to run at 3.58GHz, but only with ambient temperature below 66F.

You should be able to crack 3.2GHz with 1.40Vcore.

 

[imported_BS]

Windows reloaded, Things are stable and games seem to be smoother on this board then on my last. Nice board.

 

[rbk123]

Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal
Which version of windows? Both rows should go up and down, with no more than +/-4C deviation.

I agree, hence my confusion. I'm running XP Pro.

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Originally posted by: rbk123

Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal
Which version of windows? Both rows should go up and down, with no more than +/-4C deviation.

I agree, hence my confusion. I'm running XP Pro.

SP2? Which BIOS? You may want to reload S&M V1.9.

 

[rbk123]

Yes, SP2. Where did you download your S&M from - maybe the place I got it from has bugs?

Further update on my 2140. I was playing with it this morning and bumped it up to 3.2G at 1.445V (or whatever the one is just below 1.465). It was Orthos stable but the temp peaked to 70C after 30 minutes (it idles at 40C). Any cause for concern? That seems a bit toasty.
I have good cooling in the case (Antec Solo), dual 92mm fans in front, 120mm in the rear. My cooler is a Zalman 9500.

 

[SerpentRoyal]

I've pushed mine up to 75C under Orthos. No need to run test for more than 1 hour. Enable C1E/EIST and you'll be okay. You may be able to hit 3.3GHz with 1.465Vcore.

 

[rbk123]

I'm going to back down the voltage first to see if I can lower it and still have it Orthos stable at 3.2 - I started high at 1.445v to see if that would be stable and then planned on going up (or down) from there. I may be able to do 3.3 at 1.445. I do have C1E/EIST disabled right now for OC purposes, but my idle is plenty cool at 40C.

If I put the board at 413 to hit 3.3, do you think I need to up any voltages on the NB, SB, or VTT ?