Abit IP35-E Review (500MHz FSB board)...$90 @ NewEgg + $6.61 ship

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SerpentRoyal

Banned
May 20, 2007
3,517
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Download coretemp and post CPU load temperature after you're cleared CMOS and run Orthos Large mode for 10 minutes. Be sure to take MB outside the case when you run the test. I'm quite sure that the heat sink fan is NOT PROPERLY seated on CPU. It's a royal pain to get all four push pins to go into the MB. You should not see more than 60C under Coretemp at full load.
 

zechraffie

Junior Member
Oct 3, 2007
2
0
0
Hi all, I've got a IP35E w/ E6550 and am having trouble getting pass 500 X7. the board seem walled at 490. i know the chip can go well past 530 on on P5B Deluxe and the RAMS as well.

Can anyone suggest some settings that can help?

I gotta confess this is my first Abit board and the bios do seem odd to me when compared to the Asus and MSI's that i've had.

BTW, i bought the IP35-E simply because of Serpent Royal's write up here and it seem such good value :laugh:
 

zechraffie

Junior Member
Oct 3, 2007
2
0
0
Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal
You need to use your P5B Deluxe cause the most that I've seen with this $70 board is 500MHz FSB.

thanks for the quick response sir... if that's the limitation of this board, then i might just have to unload it quick and move on... thanks again!

 

SerpentRoyal

Banned
May 20, 2007
3,517
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No problem. You have a six sigma chip capable of 530MHz FSB. I'm not sure if the Asus board can maintain stability at 530MHz under Orthos and S&M's heat mode.

The P5K board should overclock better, and the highest official stable speed appears to be around 510MHz.

You may want to bump NB voltage up by 2 to 3 notches, and SB up by 1 or 2. Also raise VTT up by one or two. Again, I have no hands-on experience because don't have access to a stable 530MHz FSB chip.
 

Heidfirst

Platinum Member
May 18, 2005
2,015
0
0
Originally posted by: zechraffie
Hi all, I've got a IP35E w/ E6550 and am having trouble getting pass 500 X7. the board seem walled at 490. i know the chip can go well past 530 on on P5B Deluxe and the RAMS as well.
Asus usually don't run as tight internal latencies as abit (& I believe MSI) do which means that they can usually run a slightly higher fsb.
 

Zap

Elite Member
Oct 13, 1999
22,377
2
81
Does this board require a BIOS update before it can POST with a Core 2 Duo E2140 or a Celeron D 347 (Cedar Mill)? Why I ask is that I just got this board and these are the two chips I've tried in it, and no POST. I've tried multiple PSUs, RAM, video and these CPUs, all known working parts. After clearing BIOS the board will spin up fan, spin down, then spin back up and then stay that way with no picture and no beeps.
 

rbk123

Senior member
Aug 22, 2006
745
348
136
Originally posted by: zechraffieif that's the limitation of this board, then i might just have to unload it quick and move on... thanks again!

You're better off selling the chip and getting another 6xxx with a 8 or 9 (preferably 9) multiplier.
 

SerpentRoyal

Banned
May 20, 2007
3,517
0
0
Originally posted by: Zap
Does this board require a BIOS update before it can POST with a Core 2 Duo E2140 or a Celeron D 347 (Cedar Mill)? Why I ask is that I just got this board and these are the two chips I've tried in it, and no POST. I've tried multiple PSUs, RAM, video and these CPUs, all known working parts. After clearing BIOS the board will spin up fan, spin down, then spin back up and then stay that way with no picture and no beeps.

Shipped 11 BIOS should work with E2140. Have seen a few users with this CPU/MB combo. Try JEDEC DDR2 667 or 800 RAMs. Board boots fine with Ultra V400, V500, X-Finity 500, X-Finity 600, Antec SP 350, and Antec Earthwatts 500. Some users had boot problem with Antec Trio.

Boot with a bare board (CPU, GPU, mouse, keyboard, and one stick of RAM) on the shipping box. You may want to disconnect power from PSU, hit power switch, remove battery, clear CMOS, and reboot PC.

Which PSU, GPU, and RAM have you used?

jmIII
CPU: e2140 @3.2GHz (M0 spec:SLA93)
FSB / Multi: 8x400
Vcore:
Mobo: Abit IP35-E
Ram: 2x512mb Crucial Ballistix Tracer DDR800 @800
Cooling: Cooler Master TX2

Rbk123
E2140 @3.2Ghz
375x8
1.425V
Abit IP35-E
2GB of the $15 Cheap HP ram @ 5-5-5-15 and 2.0V
Zalman 9500

Aiya24
E2140 @ 3GHz L2
375*8
1.38v
Abit IP35-E
Crucial Ballistix PC2-6400 @ 4-4-4-12 750mhz 2.1v
TR Ultima-90 w/S-Flex F 120mm fan

Kent B
E2140@2.9(L2)
8x363
1.28V
Abit IP35-E
Corsair Platinum ddr2 667 @ 726 @ 4-4-4-12
Stock Cooler

http://forums.anandtech.com/me...AR_FORUMVIEWTMP=Linear
 

Zap

Elite Member
Oct 13, 1999
22,377
2
81
Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal
Boot with a bare board (CPU, GPU, mouse, keyboard, and one stick of RAM) on the shipping box. You may want to disconnect power from PSU, hit power switch, remove battery, clear CMOS, and reboot PC.

That's exactly how I test all motherboards I get in before they ever go into a case. Here's the parts I've tried with it:

E2140 CPU
Celeron D (not supported)
Patriot DDR2-800
Crucial Ballistix (SPD is JEDEC compliant AFAIK)
Fortron FSP400-60GLN PSU
Silverstone ST75ZF PSU
MSI 7300LE video card
old PCI S3 chipset video card
PC speaker hooked up

I've cleared BIOS. I've used single sticks of RAM. I've tried various combinations. I've re-tested the parts in an ASRock ConRoe1333DVI-H board and it boots up right away.

Note that I never get any beeps from the PC speaker even if video card and/or RAM is not present.

I do have more RAM (OCZ) and other PSUs (Antec Quattro 850) to test with it, as well as many more video cards and even more PC speakers. Tomorrow. Too tired right now.

Originally posted by: hokiealumnus
Zap, check out this list for processors the IP35-E supports.

Thanks. Looks like the shipping BIOS supports everything 800MHz FSB and up. That Celeron is 533MHz FSB, haha. I was looking for something like that list, but spent about 15 minutes clicking around Abit's site to no avail.

 

SerpentRoyal

Banned
May 20, 2007
3,517
0
0
Disconnect power from MB and remove the CMOS battery. Set CMOS jumper to clear. Re-assemble tomorrow. If no POST and no video with bare board/PSU/RAM, then you may have a bad board.

It doesn't appear to be a video issue since you've tested with low-powered PCI-E/PCI cards. Some users have had problem booting with Crucial B. These are rated at 2.2V. There are also confirmed reports about boot issue with Antec Trio.

http://crucial.com/store/parts...odule=BL2KIT12864AA804
 

funks

Golden Member
Nov 9, 2000
1,402
44
91
Did you guys get Wake On Lan working on your boards?

On my IP35-E, enabling WOL doesn't do a thing (can't wake the PC)..
 

SerpentRoyal

Banned
May 20, 2007
3,517
0
0
Try 12 or 13 BIOS. Did you enabled this feature in BIOS. Try S1 or S3 mode. I've never tested this feature. Does your PSU support this function?
 

ArchAngel777

Diamond Member
Dec 24, 2000
5,223
61
91
Well, I received my Thermalright SI-128 SE tonight and installed it.

First, let me tell you what a major pain in the ass it is to install in this board. Anyone who is thinking about it, just know that you are going to face some major issues. Pray to God that you have a little brother or a china man to get your fingers in there and plug in some of the power adapters.

Second, this is a very well made heatsink. I received it and it looked mint. It looks far better and far more carefully made than the Tuniq Tower. I decided to lap it right away because it was far from flat. I spent about 30 minutes and lapped her down to near flat. I don't think It is perfect, but pretty damn close.

Third, The Tuniq is a piece of shit to remove from LGA775. I almost destroyed my motherboard trying to get the back plate off. Seriously, that shit does not come. Some say that is a good design, I say, hell no. That is the worst thing you could do. The SOB was superglued to the back of the motherboard. I had to use a screw driver and very carefully poke holes into it until I could pry the damn thing off. Of course, your can't reuse it after that (which sucks). I will have to mod it if I am going to install it in another CPU now.

Now, the results you have all been waiting for, actually, maybe none of you waited or even cared for that matter, but here they are.

It dropped my temps a whopping 2 degrees from the Tuniq Tower on the CPU and didn't really do anything at all for the PWM. I was a bit taken back, I mean, who the hell? People mentioned that blowing air over the PWM would cool it down. Well, it didn't. You should feel the pressure my Silvertake 120mm fan is blowing towards the motherboard. Trust me, it is getting some serious wind. Additionally, I decided to find out if having my PC in the little cove affects the temperatures at all. It turns out, with the case panel removed, temperatures did not drop one bit. They both peaked and heated up the same. So that blows... If you looking to lower PWM, I don't know what the hell to tell you except put in a Dual Core, because that will drop them 20c right off the bat. Other than that, it appears some of these IP35-E's running hotter than others. That is the only logical conclusion I can come too.

There is absolutely no doubt in my mind any longer that I have something configured wrong. No doubt. I would stand before God right now and tell him that I am entire sure everything is setup optimally and that my chip and motherboard just run hot. Nothing I cao do about it! Really... Optimal air flow and still the boards love to fry eggs.

Well, anyway, I just wanted to update you guys here. At this point, I am done fiddling with my rig. It is now time to use it and play games and do whatever else... I hope this lasts me 3 years, if it does, all was good. The only upgrade I plan in the next year is a new Video Card and a New Hard Drive (Waiting for a faster and larger raptor - if it ever happens).

EDIT ** BTW, I plan to install my Tuniq Tower on my Dad's 939 3800+... I plan to beat the shit out of it for voltage and see if he can hit 3.0Ghz. On stock cooling he tops out at 2.66Ghz. This Tuniq Tower dominates the dual cores, so I am pretty sure we can up the voltage quite a bit more on his board. Mine as well put the Tuniq to good use, especially since it uses a different bracket.

Also, after testing everything, I am running the program CPU Burn in. It actually doesn't heat my PWM as much as Prime95. But, it does heat the CPU to the same temperature. I am guessing that Prime95 mixed mode moves a lot of ram and that in turn causes PWM temps to sky rocket. Who knows, just speculation at this point. I feel better though, when PWM is in the 70's rather than the 90's
 

SerpentRoyal

Banned
May 20, 2007
3,517
0
0
Your result with dual core (20C drop) is consistent with many others...about 50 to 53C PWM at 85F ambient.

The PWM temperature went up when you switched to a quad. GO quads will elevate by 10C, while the older stepping may increase up to 20C. Again, that's normal. An older quad core requires more current from the output devices, resulting in more heat at the PWM.

We all know that if we have 40C air blowing over 80C MOSFET, then the MOSFET's temperature will drop, and the expelled air temperature will rise. Many others have added additional air flow to the MOSFET region and experienced at least a 5C reduction in PWM temperature. If you did not experience any drop in PWM, then the problem may be:

1. Insufficient air flow at the PWM circuit.
2. Bad PWM sensor.

I believe the sensor is working properly since it is displaying the correct temp with a DC CPU.

Here's an easy way to confirm the lack of air flow at the PWM. Take the MB outside of the case and put it on the shipping box. Remove the MOSFET heat sink (two spring loaded push pin). Centrally position a medium speed 80mm fan one inch above the twelve output devices soldered to the MB and run Orthos. Check you PWM temp. It should be in the high 60s.

Also check the flatness of the MOSFET heat sink. You may want to lap the heatsink to achieve better contact at each output device. Apply non-conductive thermal grease to each output device before you re-assemble the MOSFET heat sink.
 

ArchAngel777

Diamond Member
Dec 24, 2000
5,223
61
91
If I have to take the board out for reason, I will check that... Otherwise at this point I don't really care anymore. P95 is the only thing that makes my system cry. CPU Burn-in set for 4 instances, each one uses a core and it loads and peaks at 69C CPU, and 74 PWM. This is with error checking more disabled (runs it hotter).

So, I highly doubt my CPU is ever going to break 60c playing games or encoding and since PWM seems to correctlate to CPU temp to a certain extent, I doubt it will go over 60c. In fact, when I tested everything before lapping, 3DMark06 at lowest resoluition (to stress CPU in a CPU limited scenario, which also, is unrealistic as I will never even see these temps in games) was around 60C peak, and PWM was around 55c.

Once Crysis is released, I will probably loop it for one hour if they have a a timedemo and then I will check temps. I am guessing I won't break 65c under load.
 

Aharami

Lifer
Aug 31, 2001
21,296
149
106
A big Thank You is in order for SerpentRoyal. My rig is up and running just fine. I lapped my heatsink and q6600 and getting some awesome temps. If it wasnt for this thread, I'd purchased a IP35 Pro or a P35-DS3R. So thanks for saving me a bunch of money. OCing to 3.2 GHz was a breeze thanks to you
 

Zap

Elite Member
Oct 13, 1999
22,377
2
81
Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal
Some users have had problem booting with Crucial B. These are rated at 2.2V.

Turned out to be the RAM. I spent a bit of time trying out almost everything that I had laying around, and the board would only POST with two of them from a fresh clear-CMOS. Sheesh, pickier than my Biostar boards. The thing is though that the board still almost NEVER gives me the memory beep. I did get it to beep (at all) by reversing the PC speaker leads. However, it doesn't give me the long BEEEEEEEEEEP when it doesn't like the RAM. It just stays silent. I did get that beep once with RAM that works in it, when it was set to too high a speed.

Anyways, thanks SerpentRoyal. You're an okay guy, no matter what I^H^H^H I mean, no matter what they say about you.

Again, I ran out of time, so I wasn't able to do more testing (got to eat dinner then go to evening classes) but I have some initial results. Pretty easy overclock. I like having direct access to the memory multipliers. Dropped memory multiplier to 1:1, raise memory and CPU voltage, set FSB to 400 and voila, instant doubling the speed of the E2140 to 3.2GHz. Of course I haven't tested for higher speeds or for stability, but that will come later. I'm just happy that it works. Next step - mail off that rebate.
 

SerpentRoyal

Banned
May 20, 2007
3,517
0
0
Originally posted by: Zap
Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal
Some users have had problem booting with Crucial B. These are rated at 2.2V.

Turned out to be the RAM. I spent a bit of time trying out almost everything that I had laying around, and the board would only POST with two of them from a fresh clear-CMOS. Sheesh, pickier than my Biostar boards. The thing is though that the board still almost NEVER gives me the memory beep. I did get it to beep (at all) by reversing the PC speaker leads. However, it doesn't give me the long BEEEEEEEEEEP when it doesn't like the RAM. It just stays silent. I did get that beep once with RAM that works in it, when it was set to too high a speed.

Anyways, thanks SerpentRoyal. You're an okay guy, no matter what I^H^H^H I mean, no matter what they say about you.

Again, I ran out of time, so I wasn't able to do more testing (got to eat dinner then go to evening classes) but I have some initial results. Pretty easy overclock. I like having direct access to the memory multipliers. Dropped memory multiplier to 1:1, raise memory and CPU voltage, set FSB to 400 and voila, instant doubling the speed of the E2140 to 3.2GHz. Of course I haven't tested for higher speeds or for stability, but that will come later. I'm just happy that it works. Next step - mail off that rebate.

Hehehehhh. I can be a ROYAL pain. Crucial B can be iffy. I had five IP35-E boards. No issue at all with 1.8V DDR2 667 or 800 from Crucial or Kingston. +2.0V "oveclocking" RAM will probably require some finessing to boot. High quality 1.8V DDR2 800 should be able to boot at default settings and hit +500MHz @ 2.1V and 5-5-5-15-2T timing. There's a trend to rebadge so so RAM as high-performance overclocking 2.0-2.2V DDR2 800. These sticks usually come with a sizable rebate to drop the price down to less than $30/GB. Most will top out under 500MHz.

I also think the Abit BIOS is tuned for a little more RAM speed, which may make the MB more picky with "overclocking" RAMs.

You shouldn't need to bump up VTT, NB, and SB until 430MHz FSB. Use as little voltage as possible. I'm uber stable at 488MHz FSB with only a one notch bump in VTT, NB, and SB. These chips have no problem with 1.465Vcore and a decent CPU cooler. 3.2-3.4GHz is the sweet spot. I'd also enable C1E and EIST to lower Vcore and core speed. Be sure to apply the multi-core CPU patch if you're running WXP SP2. Performance can be dreadfully slow without this patch if you enabled C1E/EIST. Another workaround solution is to set Power Options to Office Desk instead of Minimal Power. WXP SP1 and Vista are fine with C1E/EIST enabled.

I love these "N5" ValueRAM. Very good overclocking RAMs. Sticks are nominally rated at 1.8V DDR2 800 with 5-5-5-18 timing, but I can run them at 2.1V DDR2 960 with 4-4-4-12-2T. Compatible will all the boards that have crossed my test bench. No problem running four sticks at 576MHz RAM speed with 5-5-5-15-2T/2.1V. Unfortunately, the cheapest price for a 2GB kit was $80.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/...x?Item=N82E16820134117

Thanks again for the update.
 

bucd

Golden Member
Jun 12, 2004
1,106
0
76
I just got this board yesterday. Thought i would share my results.

Setup:

Antec 900 Case
Antec True Power Trio 550w
2 x 74 GB WD Raptors (older 8mb cache) -- using these to dual boot (Vista 64-bit and WinXP 32-bit)
1 x 320 Seagate 7200.10
e2140
Thermalright Ultra 90 HSF
Samsung 203B DVD+/-R
4 x 1GB OCZ Reaper DDR2 800
Sapphire x1900xt 512mb Video Card

Here's what I got so far

1.465v VCORE (under load actually showing up 1.412v - 1.436v in CPU-Z)
3.2Ghz 400FSB with 1:1 on RAM divider which makes RAM right at 800Mhz
4-4-4-15-2T (2.2v)
All other settings left at default

Using the lastest BIOS from abit's site (12 i think it was).

I left Orthos running overnight (using blend test, cpu/mem) and it was over 7hrs no errors this morning. I left it running as I came to work.

Temps were as follows

Ambient : 34c
IDLE : 43c
Load(orthos): 74c (kinda high i know)

So far, the easiest mobo to overclock with that i've had a chance to work with.

I was worried after reading power up issues with Antec Trio and OCZ RAM (more specific to RAM that requires +2v). I'm very satisfied so far having only had the board less then 24hrs. I may try to hit 3.4Ghz but the current load temp is a bit scary.

Anyhow, thanks Serpent for making this thread or else I would have never thought to even try this board.

Best of luck to all and go out and get this board already if you haven't done so!

-D
 

SerpentRoyal

Banned
May 20, 2007
3,517
0
0
No need to burn up your board and CPU with hours of torture. Try 3.3GHz under Orthos for two hours. If okay, then bump up to 3.35GHz. Run in the morning when room temp is under 73C. This will keep your core temp from breaking 75C. Also use memtest86 test#5 (50 loops) to check RAMs since you'll also overclock the memory. Drop by the Overclock forum to post your result. There's a growing thread with these value C2D CPUs.

And yes, you managed to boot with the Trio, Raptor, and OCZ! Congrat on the overclock.
 

Aharami

Lifer
Aug 31, 2001
21,296
149
106
Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal
Glad it worked out for you. What are your PWM and CPU temps under Orthos Large mode?

Im sorry, I dont know what PWM is. Ive never run Orthos before (did most of my stress testing with Prime95). It seems Orthos causes the CPU to put out more heat than Prime95. With prime, my temps usually stay around 52C. Ive been running Orthos large for 15 mins now and my temps are 56, 51, 54, 55.
 

SerpentRoyal

Banned
May 20, 2007
3,517
0
0
Good temp. Probably GO batch. You can bump Vcore by one or two levels and try for 3.3-3.4GHz. 1.40Vcore in BIOS is safe if you enabled C1E and EIST to lower voltage and speed when idling. Your CPU will not see more than 1.35V under any condition.

PWM is the temperature of your output devices on the MB. You need to install Abit EQ to display PWM temp. Don't let it auto run in MSCONFIG's STARTUP box. Manually launch the program only when you need to check temp. Use BIOS to change settings.
 
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