Abit IP35-E Review (500MHz FSB board)...$90 @ NewEgg + $6.61 ship

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SerpentRoyal

Banned
May 20, 2007
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Originally posted by: QuiksilverX1
Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal
Originally posted by: QuiksilverX1
Does this board have any issues if it were to use a SATA DVD-RW and SATA Hard Drive, or does it just have issues with RAID?

I've seen occasional reports of SATA issues with Raptor drives. IP35-E doesn't incorporate RAID. You'll need to get a RAID card.

True the Abit IP35-E doesn't support RAID but it's big brother does. IP35-Pro

I'm just curious about it because if their are no issues with the IP35-E then their shouldn't be any with the IP35-Pro.

So let's narrow this down abit more.
Would their be any issues with this hard drive and DVD-RW on the IP35-E.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/...x?Item=N82E16822136053
http://www.newegg.com/Product/...x?Item=N82E16827106072

Hard drive is okay. Haven't come across any issue with LO or Sony/NEC Optiarc. Note that DVD-RW drives don't top DMA mode 2. Therefore, there is no need to go to SATA. The $25 Pacific Digital (hot deals forum) is suppose to be a BenQ 1620. Those drives burn with very low PIE/PIF errors with high quality Taiyo Yuden or Verbatim media.

The Pro board has a buggy BIOS. The root cause is probably the Guru chip. Also eSATA can be a pain to setup. 1394a is still stuck around 14.4MB/sec with some external drives.
 

Quiksilver

Diamond Member
Jul 3, 2005
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I already bought the LO dvd-rw drive. I'm not buying the SATA for performance; just cable management purposes. (Easier to maneuver than round ide cables and easier tuck out of sight )

I haven't heard about any of the BIOS issues for the pro board you got any links to them by chance?

Sidenote:
I've been watching the ip35 pro, asus pk3 deluxe, and now i'm watching the x38 chipset boards [I don't mind the $300 price tag that much] just trying to make up my mind. I might splurge for a x38 asus maximus board.
 

SerpentRoyal

Banned
May 20, 2007
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Originally posted by: QuiksilverX1
I already bought the LO dvd-rw drive. I'm not buying the SATA for performance; just cable management purposes. (Easier to maneuver than round ide cables and easier tuck out of sight )

I haven't heard about any of the BIOS issues for the pro board you got any links to them by chance?

Sidenote:
I've been watching the ip35 pro, asus pk3 deluxe, and now i'm watching the x38 chipset boards [I don't mind the $300 price tag that much] just trying to make up my mind. I might splurge for a x38 asus maximus board.

Had IP35 Pro. Also check Abit Forum. BIOS corruption requiring clearing of CMOS.

 

Borealis7

Platinum Member
Oct 19, 2006
2,914
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Another Satisfied Customer (had to say it...and i don't work for Abit.)

I managed to boot windows with my E6550 on 400FSB all stock voltages and run some OCCT, but i dont have proper cooling and it quicky heated up to 75C so i turned it back to stock.

 

imported_jnk

Junior Member
Oct 2, 2007
15
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Originally posted by: bal3wolf
yes the tuniq tower fits i have it on my ip35-e only problem i had is i had a fan ontop of the chipset heatsink i had to move it some to keep the fan.

thanks for the info man
 

SerpentRoyal

Banned
May 20, 2007
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Originally posted by: Borealis7
Another Satisfied Customer (had to say it...and i don't work for Abit.)

I managed to boot windows with my E6550 on 400FSB all stock voltages and run some OCCT, but i dont have proper cooling and it quicky heated up to 75C so i turned it back to stock.

Big Typhoon with fit your board. You should limit core temp of E6xx0 to about 65C. E4xx0 can take 75C.

Board should do at least 430MHz FSB without touching VTT, NB, and SB if you have good RAMs. I only need to bump these up by one notch to hit 488MHz FSB. I'd upgrade the CPU cooler, dial in 1.465Vcore in BIOS and crank up the FSB. I don't see many C2D chips capable of +500MHz FSB. Course you'll need very good RAMs to go that high.
 

bucd

Golden Member
Jun 12, 2004
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Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal
More issue with Antec Trio. Antec Earthwatts 500 is okay. On sale today at many local Frys B&M for $50 out the door.

http://forum.abit-usa.com/showthread.php?t=129198

I'm not sure what the issue is with the Trio. I have it and it's working great with this board and i have 2 raptor drives in them....as well as 4 stick of 1gb OCZ Reapers.

I see people having issues with either trio and mobo, rapto and mobo or OCZ and mobo.

I'm not sure what it is.
After hook up of all parts, booted up ok. No issues. Went into BIOS and set RAM voltage to 2.2v (OCZ Reaper's max to avoid lost of warranty)

This is what i noticed.

METHOD 1:

1) Configuration of BIOS for testing overclocking ability of CPU until it would not post.

3) Power down by holding down the power button.

4) Clear CMOS with jumper

5) Power back up, no post.

6) Repeat steps 3 -5 a few more times, still no post. Almost gave up at this point.

Until

METHOD 2:

1) Turn off power with toggle switch in the back of the Trio (or unplug power cable)

2) Wait till red light on mobo goes off

3) Reset CMOS with jumper

4) Turn on power with toggle switch or plug in power cable, whichever it was you did.

5) Power up PC.

Boots every single time. No issues at all.

For some reason if power is still going through the board, it seems that it will not clear the CMOS. Where every other mobo that i've worked with so far you never had to do that. Not sure if it's mobo related, PSU, or the combo fo the two.

So I would like to see those who's having issues with the trio and this mobo to try that and see if it works.

I've actually tested it again both ways just to see. And method one fails every time, whereas method 2 works every single time.

I'm hoping this is not just a coincidence.

Then again, maybe someone's already tried this and still having issues.

-D
 

ArchAngel777

Diamond Member
Dec 24, 2000
5,223
61
91
Figure I would give everyone an update here on my final progress. Here is what I am running.

Intel Q6600 @ 3.33Ghz (370x9) 1.40v Idle/Load 44/69c
Thermalright SI-128 SE +SS 120MM 115 CFM
Transcend 4X1GB 4-4-4-12 @ 740Mhz
BFG 8800GTS 640MB OC2
Abit IP35-E
74GB Raptor
500GB WD

So far everything has been really good from the stability side of it. All temperature issues have been resolved with some tweaking and replacement of my box and fans. My only complaint with the motherboard is the poor MOSFET heat sinks... The quality control on many motherboards (not just Abit) have issues with their NB/MOSFET heatsinks. Often times they don't use enough grease or put it on very carelessly. In the end, the motherboard overheats easily with QC while the CPU remains quite cool. Temps were not affected on bit by any air blowing on the MOSFETs or NB. Temps remained the same whether I have my SI-128 SE (down draft) or my Tuniq Tower. I could probably remove the motherboard and reseat both the NB and MOSFET Heatsinks, but that is a lot of work for something that should have already been done. So, anyway, the rest of the board is awesome, but the quality on the heat sinks really blow (at least on mine). I'd still recomend this board, but if I were to buy another one for a QC, I'd probably get a DS3R as I believe it has better cooling abilities.

 

SerpentRoyal

Banned
May 20, 2007
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Quite a few here are running 62C PWM with Q6600 (3.5-3.7GHz). I have not seen any issue with the IP35-E's PWM heat sink. If the board and heat sink are flat, then there should be adequate heat transfer under normal condition. Unlike IP35 Pro, the -E board does not use a heat pipe, which can interfere with the proper seating of the PWM heat sink. Abit does not use grease between the output devices and the PWM heat sink.

If the output device is running north of 65C, then having moderate 40C air flow (low speed 80mm fan) at the PWM region will cause the PWM temp to drop by a few degree. That's physics 101.
 

ArchAngel777

Diamond Member
Dec 24, 2000
5,223
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Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal
Quite a few here are running 62C PWM with Q6600 (3.5-3.7GHz). I have not seen any issue with the IP35-E's PWM heat sink. If the board and heat sink are flat, then there should be adequate heat transfer under normal condition. Unlike IP35 Pro, the -E board does not use a heat pipe, which can interfere with the proper seating of the PWM heat sink. Abit does not use grease between the output devices and the PWM heat sink.

If the output device is running north of 65C, then having moderate 40C air flow (low speed 80mm fan) at the PWM region will cause the PWM temp to drop by a few degree. That's physics 101.

Running exactily at 62c? That is incredable! Such an exact temperature for 'quite a few' people. Even if that were their temperature, it doens't invalidate a whole slew of boards running hotter. Additionally, check out www.abit-usa.com and check out their forums. There have been several people mentioning rather high PWM temps on the IP35-E. Whether you choose to believe it or not is your choice.

Also, if a heat sink is not making good contact and thus, transferring heat, blowing air over that heatsink will do very little to cool that which the heatsink is 'on', physics 101 Additionally, your statement of 'a few degrees' may apply if my complaint was that PWM ran at 65c rather than your stated 62c. However, being that my temperatures (others as well) have been seen north of 80c, I doubt a 'few' degrees is going to bring me in line with those 62c PWM temperatures stated by all these other people.

Fair warning to anyone out there. My particular board runs over 11c hotter than my CPU at the hottest core. I have plenty of air (case temperature is 31c) blowing right over the MOSFET's and even when I didn't their temperature was more or less the same. As far as Serpent, you don't have to make an excuse for the board, or pretend that I have something setup improperly. You can accept the fact that maybe I received a less than 'stellar' board when it comes to temperature. Of course, maybe the sensor isn't calibrated right either, that is also another possiblity that can and does happen at the factories. In any case, I don't believe all the IP35-E boards have an issue with this, but I know at least a few do (as evidence of others posts in the abit forums). Which is why I am giving my more than 'fair' warning. If I really wanted to hold something against this board, I would comment on the shitty fact that you cannot have a USB-Mass storage device hooked up to it or it will hand on BIOS (confirmed with others in the Abit-forums). But I am more than happy to overlook that 'irritating' issue. But again, that isn't an Abit specific issue. Out of our several thousand Intel 815 Chipsets we sold, a few of them had issues with USB devices plugged in while booting. Then there was the issue with the BX Chipset on the Asus P5B. Probably sold around 4,000 of those boards and several of them would lock up when you tried to print to the LPT port... Had to RMA them to Asus and get them replaced. All boards have problems, I just wanted to let people know the ones that I encountered.

To further expound on this issue, I assembled my own duct, attempting to isolate and cool tne MOSFETs. I ran open case, didn't lower temps much at all. I built a duct that ran cool air right to it and that didn't do much of anything either. Basically not much changes other than a few celcius either way. So, for clarification, I too, believed as Serpent did. But my testing has proven that theory wrong.

What I really need to do is remove those heatsinks and reseat them with another TIM. If that doesn't do anything, the sensors are wrong, or the board simply runs hot. It is a proven fact that on nearly ALL motherboards, the quality of TIM applied is TERRIBLE. Remove any heatsink from the motherboard and you will how terrible of a job they do... Normally though, in the past, it has not been much of an issue because they were much like the very old CPU's where they didn't need good contact with a heatsink, because they just naturally ran pretty cool. Those days are over and now motherboard needs not only active cooling, but great contact with their heatsinks.
 

ArchAngel777

Diamond Member
Dec 24, 2000
5,223
61
91
I wanted to mention that if you configure a setting in BIOS and it does not recover, the fastest way to get the BIOS to reset is to unplug the power cord, take out the CMOS battery, count to 30, put the battery back in, plug the power cord in and boot up. Works every time to boot back @ default settings.

I am reading on the Abit forums that some people are told to take everything out and remove the battery for like 1/2 day. I had to do that method around 10 times and it always worked like a charm... Keep it in mind! I know I would go crazy if I had to wait 8 hours before I could 'try' again! So first try it for 30 seconds and see if that does it for you... If not, THEN you can wait for full 1/2 day.

Also, if you need help with your Abit board, I highly recomend going to their forums, because chances are, you will find someone else with your same exact problem if you search and they will have the solution. That is how I found out many of the issues I was facing with my board. That isn't to say the help here wasn't good (it is damn good and hats off to Serpent for his service) but that forum will typically have a lot more information.
 

hokiealumnus

Senior member
Sep 18, 2007
332
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www.overclockers.com
The hard CMOS clear (taking the battery out for any length of time) is generally advised if the person has said "clearing CMOS doesn't work" or something similar. For my board, the only time I took the battery out is when I first installed it. Aside from that, when an overclock fails, I unplug it, hit the power switch to clear out the capacitors, set the CMOS jumper to clear and let it sit 30 seconds. After that, I reset the jumper, plug it back in & it's right back at default settings.
 

ArchAngel777

Diamond Member
Dec 24, 2000
5,223
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Originally posted by: hokiealumnus
The hard CMOS clear (taking the battery out for any length of time) is generally advised if the person has said "clearing CMOS doesn't work" or something similar. For my board, the only time I took the battery out is when I first installed it. Aside from that, when an overclock fails, I unplug it, hit the power switch to clear out the capacitors, set the CMOS jumper to clear and let it sit 30 seconds. After that, I reset the jumper, plug it back in & it's right back at default settings.

:thumbsup:

 

SerpentRoyal

Banned
May 20, 2007
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Originally posted by: ArchAngel777
Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal
Quite a few here are running 62C PWM with Q6600 (3.5-3.7GHz). I have not seen any issue with the IP35-E's PWM heat sink. If the board and heat sink are flat, then there should be adequate heat transfer under normal condition. Unlike IP35 Pro, the -E board does not use a heat pipe, which can interfere with the proper seating of the PWM heat sink. Abit does not use grease between the output devices and the PWM heat sink.

If the output device is running north of 65C, then having moderate 40C air flow (low speed 80mm fan) at the PWM region will cause the PWM temp to drop by a few degree. That's physics 101.

Running exactily at 62c? That is incredable! Such an exact temperature for 'quite a few' people. Even if that were their temperature, it doens't invalidate a whole slew of boards running hotter. Additionally, check out www.abit-usa.com and check out their forums. There have been several people mentioning rather high PWM temps on the IP35-E. Whether you choose to believe it or not is your choice.

Also, if a heat sink is not making good contact and thus, transferring heat, blowing air over that heatsink will do very little to cool that which the heatsink is 'on', physics 101 Additionally, your statement of 'a few degrees' may apply if my complaint was that PWM ran at 65c rather than your stated 62c. However, being that my temperatures (others as well) have been seen north of 80c, I doubt a 'few' degrees is going to bring me in line with those 62c PWM temperatures stated by all these other people.

Fair warning to anyone out there. My particular board runs over 11c hotter than my CPU at the hottest core. I have plenty of air (case temperature is 31c) blowing right over the MOSFET's and even when I didn't their temperature was more or less the same. As far as Serpent, you don't have to make an excuse for the board, or pretend that I have something setup improperly. You can accept the fact that maybe I received a less than 'stellar' board when it comes to temperature. Of course, maybe the sensor isn't calibrated right either, that is also another possiblity that can and does happen at the factories. In any case, I don't believe all the IP35-E boards have an issue with this, but I know at least a few do (as evidence of others posts in the abit forums). Which is why I am giving my more than 'fair' warning. If I really wanted to hold something against this board, I would comment on the shitty fact that you cannot have a USB-Mass storage device hooked up to it or it will hand on BIOS (confirmed with others in the Abit-forums). But I am more than happy to overlook that 'irritating' issue. But again, that isn't an Abit specific issue. Out of our several thousand Intel 815 Chipsets we sold, a few of them had issues with USB devices plugged in while booting. Then there was the issue with the BX Chipset on the Asus P5B. Probably sold around 4,000 of those boards and several of them would lock up when you tried to print to the LPT port... Had to RMA them to Asus and get them replaced. All boards have problems, I just wanted to let people know the ones that I encountered.

To further expound on this issue, I assembled my own duct, attempting to isolate and cool tne MOSFETs. I ran open case, didn't lower temps much at all. I built a duct that ran cool air right to it and that didn't do much of anything either. Basically not much changes other than a few celcius either way. So, for clarification, I too, believed as Serpent did. But my testing has proven that theory wrong.

What I really need to do is remove those heatsinks and reseat them with another TIM. If that doesn't do anything, the sensors are wrong, or the board simply runs hot. It is a proven fact that on nearly ALL motherboards, the quality of TIM applied is TERRIBLE. Remove any heatsink from the motherboard and you will how terrible of a job they do... Normally though, in the past, it has not been much of an issue because they were much like the very old CPU's where they didn't need good contact with a heatsink, because they just naturally ran pretty cool. Those days are over and now motherboard needs not only active cooling, but great contact with their heatsinks.

I can confirm that my PWM is under 53C with E4300 @ 3.49GHz in 85F room (46C PWM/75F room). There are several posts in this thread with Q6600 (GO stepping) up to 3.7GHz and 62C PWM in 75F room. These rigs are setup with a good air-cooled CPU cooler and adequate case ventilation.

Look at the design of the PWM heat sink. There are two spring-loaded push pins at opposite corners of the rectangular block. If the MB and heat sink are flat, then how can there be poor contact between the output devices and the heat sink? The output devices are SOLDERED to a big heat sink embedded in the MB. Therefore, the primary path of heat flow for the output devices is INTO the board. You can take off the PWM heat sink and still achieve superior cooling by blowing cold air over the PWM area of the MB.

Run Orthos for 15 minutes. Touch the NB and PWM heat sinks. Notice that the PWM heat sink is much cooler than the NB. That's because most of the heat from the output devices goes INTO the MB.

Perhaps there exist a calibration issue with the board. Bottomline is if you have 31C air blowing on the MOSFET area, then the PWM temperature will drop by a few Cs.

Also note that you didn't see an overtemp issue at the PWM when you tested the board with a dual core CPU. The software reports a nominal PWM reading. If there is insufficient contact at the PWM heat sink, then the dual core would also yield higher PWM temp under load! The most logical explanation is that you have a bum quad CPU.
 

ArchAngel777

Diamond Member
Dec 24, 2000
5,223
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Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal
Also note that you didn't see an overtemp issue at the PWM when you tested the board with a dual core CPU. The software reports a nominal PWM reading. If there is insufficient contact at the PWM heat sink, then the dual core would also yield higher PWM temp under load! The most logical explanation is that you have a bum quad CPU.

Q6600 @ 3.2Ghz (400x8 1.312v) Hottest CPU Core = 80c, PWM = 77c PIC

E6750 @ 3.6Ghz (450x8 1.46v) Hottest CPU Core = 56c, PWM = 54c PIC

A delta of 23c and according to your previous posts, the B3 Q6600 increase PWM temps ~20c. So, really, it was not any better with a DC considering that less wattage is running through it.

So the logical conclusion that I have a 'bum' B3 isn't so logical. Lets be sure to compare apples to apples here. A Q6600 B3 is not a 'bum' chip, it is an older stepping. So, if my particular B3 were not within the ~20c delta, then I would agree that my chip is 'bum'. But this is clearly not the case as my B3 is responding as it should.

For those wondering, my current temps @ 3.33Ghz @ 1.35v is ~70c at hottest core and ~80c PWM.

For those wondering, even at 80c the board is perfectly safe for use. The motherboards threshold for warning is 100c and shutdown occours at 120c. The motherboard can handle these temperatures, I just don't particular like them.

Quote take from here

I just finished the heatpipe mod and temps are indeed lower, particularly the PWM which feel from almost 90C after 30 mins of Prime95 to 78C. I have 2 40mm fans blowing on the PWM and Northbridge.[IP35Pro + QC 3.4]

Quote taken from http://forum.uabit.com/archive/index.php/t-107388.html">here</a>

Let me guess, you're OCing a Pentium D processor.

PWM is a reflection of how much power you are using for your motherboard. As we both know, the Pentium Dual Cores can eat up more than 250W especially when overclocked and overvolted thus the high PWM. People overclocking 5XX and 6XX wouldn't have temps above 50C.

To put it in perpective, the PWM mosfets/chips should handle temps up to 150C so yours is not a big problem.

Quote taken from here

On first glance, it would appear the PWM temps are out of control. That is not really the case here, the PWM is safe to temperatures in excess of 100C

I don't plan on spending anymore time discussing the PWM temperature, but these should be enough evidence that high temperatures are not rare and abnormal and the MOSFETs run hot depending on how much wattage is running through them.
 

SerpentRoyal

Banned
May 20, 2007
3,517
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Your DC is running at 54C PWM/3.6GHz. That's about the same as my DC @ 53C PWM/3.49GHz. Therefore, I don't see any problem with your MB or the PWM heat sink. In general, a GO quad will elevate PWM temp by 10C. If you have an older B3 quad, then add 20C. Therefore, one can expect 73 to 74C PWM with many B3 quads.

Want more proof that you have a bum chip? Q6600 with latest stepping will do 57 to 62C @ 3.2GHz. Add another 10C with the older B3 stepping. Your chip is pushing 80C with only 1.31V. That's 8C hotter than the norm. A hotter CPU will generally result in higher PWM temp.
 

ArchAngel777

Diamond Member
Dec 24, 2000
5,223
61
91
Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal
Your DC is running at 54C PWM/3.6GHz. That's about the same as my DC @ 53C PWM/3.49GHz. Therefore, I don't see any problem with your MB or the PWM heat sink. In general, a GO quad will elevate PWM temp by 10C. If you have an older B3 quad, then add 20C. Therefore, one can expect 73 to 74C PWM with many B3 quads.

Want more proof that you have a bum chip? Q6600 with latest stepping will do 57 to 62C @ 3.2GHz. Add another 10C with the older B3 stepping. Your chip is pushing 80C with only 1.31V. That's 8C hotter than the norm. A hotter CPU will generally result in higher PWM temp.

Those temps were when my ambients were very high (84F) in addition to AS5 not being cured (takes around 200 or so hours)... If you check my current temps (the ones I posted right below those), they are much lower, at a higher voltage and clock speed (with the exception of PWM, which remained the same).

Therefore, my B3 @ 3.33 (370x9 -1.35v) at 69c Large FFT with a case temperature of 31c (room temp 23.5c) is perfectly normal. The PWM itself remained unchanged at around 77-80c under large FFT which is a direct reflection on the motherboard wattage output.
 

SerpentRoyal

Banned
May 20, 2007
3,517
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I also test my rig @ 85F (see previous post). AS5 curing is BS. I run AS5 and see no change after three months of use. If you increase Vcore, then PWM will also increase due to higher current draw from the CPU. You claim that there is no change in PWM temp.

Why would the PWM temp be okay with a dual core CPU and not okay with a quad core CPU? If there is poor contact at the PWM heat sink, then the PWM temp will be higher with both CPUs under load. Clearly this is NOT true with your rig.

The motherboard is programmed to respond to the CPU command. If Vcore is raised, then more current will flow across the output devices. This will elevate the PWM temperature. If you don't see higher PWM temp, then there must be extra air flow from another source to cool the PWM.
 

ArchAngel777

Diamond Member
Dec 24, 2000
5,223
61
91
Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal
I also test my rig @ 85F (see previous post). AS5 curing is BS. I run AS5 and see no change after three months of use.

I noticed a drop after about 100 hours of use with AS5 1-2c. Also, Graysky did a test on it as well and noticed a 3c drop on AS5 after 200hours of use. A lot of CPU reviewers also mention this fact... AS5 mentions it. Clearly, it isn't BS.
 

SerpentRoyal

Banned
May 20, 2007
3,517
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0
The key variables are the surface finish and flatness of the mating surfaces. Metal-to-metal contact yields the best thermal dissipation. Thermal compound will only facilitate heat transfer if there exist large gaps between the two mating surfaces. If you put too much AS5 or any thermal paste, then cooling performance will significantly degrade. Noobs tend to overtighten the CPU cooler, which can cause the mating surfaces to bow, resulting in less metal-to-metal contact.

I have access the Zalman's white paste, grey brush-on paste, and AS5. They all perform within 1 to 2C. Based on my personal experiences, proper seating of the CPU cooler is much more important than the use of AS5 thermal compound.
 

KIAman

Diamond Member
Mar 7, 2001
3,342
23
81
I just got this board and installed it last night. To my dismay, my PSU did not have an 8pin 12v1ATX connector and only a 4 pin.

My E6420 booted up and immediately went to BIOS to tune it to 3.4 (8x425) and installed windows.

As an experiment, I tried a SUPER razor thin layer of AS5, I mean so super thin, it was transparent.

In the same exact case and devices (only the MB is different) my idle temps dropped by 6c and load temps by 4c!!!

I just hope it doesn't evaporate so my CPU won't go poof!
 

SerpentRoyal

Banned
May 20, 2007
3,517
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0
More proof that good metal-to-metal contact is very important for low CPU temperature. Note that you didn't even give the AS5 time to cure!

Those who have worked in a machine shop will confirm that the surface attraction between two gauge blocks is strong enough to keep them bonded together.
 

UnIrit

Junior Member
Oct 1, 2007
17
0
0
Serpent,

Incredible job on all your work on the IP35-E! Thanks for steering me to my first overclocker.

Purchased: IP35-E, Corsair 520, C2D 4500, Big Typhoon, Antec p182, 24" SOYO monitor

Shopping for: 750 Ghz HD (too hot vs 500Ghz?), 2GB of memory (for my Win XP SP2, 32 bit), Samsung 203B,
8800 GTX.


Will the following ram overclock to 3.2G much better than the 667 variety?

Kingston ValueRAM 2GB (2 x 1GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory

Thanks again!
 
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