Abit IP35-E Review (500MHz FSB board)...$90 @ NewEgg + $6.61 ship

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SerpentRoyal

Banned
May 20, 2007
3,517
0
0
Originally posted by: Gramps
So far so good. I got my E2140 installed into the IP35-e with heatsink/fan. Installed the 2GB of HP DDR2-PC5300 RAM. Plugged up a floppy and HDD, and connected the power supply. No on-board video, so I had to wait for a PCIe graphics card. Once I got that,, I was ready to go before installing in a box. The longest part was deciphering how to turn on the motherboard. I kept looking for a switch on the motherboard rather than shorting the power pins. Just inexperience. Anyway, I shorted the pins and viola! Let there be light.

Since I wasn't ready to do anything else yet (install OS, etc.) I just poked around the BIOS to get to know it a little. What the heck, I'll try a little overclocking. Granted, I have no idea what I'm doing. I've read a bit about it, but I've never overclocked a CPU, graphics card or anything else. I normally buy stuff, install it, and move on. So I put 278 in for FSB, save BIOS, reboot, and wait for smoke. Pentium E2140 1.60Ghz running at 2.2Ghz. Hmm. A stock E6420 runs at 2.13Ghz and costs almost $200 at newegg. Surely I'm reading this wrong. I look at the memory and notice it isn't showing DDR2-667, so I change the memory divider to 1:1.20 to get it there. DDR2-667 shows up. However, my CPU temp is showing 40C and I've had entirely too much excitement for one day, so I set everything back to factory and turn it off. Still, my first overclock. And nothing blew up (I don't think).

As I've done more reading around, I've seen I'd probably have been better off with the E2160 since it's only $10 more and has the x9 multiplier (versus x8 for the E2140). Lesson learned. On the other hand, it's difficult for me to be disappointed in running a 1.6Ghz processor at 2.2Ghz with the realization that I'll probably be able to go at least a bit above that. We're talking 40% speed increase (in terms of Ghz) with a few minutes of effort. This setup will do everything I need it to, and do it well.

I think I may have fat-fingered the cooling fan installation a bit. When I turn on the computer, it reads 30C, but just letting it sit on the PC Health Status page in the BIOS, my temps have gradually gone up to 37C within the last 10 minutes. I read somewhere temps should be about 30C when the chip isn't doing anything. I'm going to let it run for a bit and see what happens. I've also read that the chip is fine up to 65-70C, so it appears that while I'm running a bit hot (again, this is sitting in the cardboard box), I'm not in any danger areas.

CPU is at full load in BIOS. Therefore, 35 to 40C is normal.

Clean install windows after you've cleared CMOS to take MB back to default configuration. Now load the Intel chipset, sound, and LAN drivers. Make an image file of this OS if you have Ghost, DriveImage, BING, or equivalent.

Drop memory divider to 1:1 and increase RAM voltage to 2.0V. You may want to manually set RAM timing (top four values) to 5, 5, 5, and 15 in BIOS. This will allow you to run the RAMs up to at least 400MHz or 3.2GHz core speed (400MHz FSB x 8 multi). Raise Vcore to 1.465. Change FSB to 350MHz. Save and reboot PC. Hopefully, you'll be able to load windows at 2.8GHz.

 

KIAman

Diamond Member
Mar 7, 2001
3,342
23
81
Anybody know of an ABIT windows flasher for xp 64 bit?
I have not had a floppy driver for 2 years so have been relying on windows flashers for all my part's bios.
 

hokiealumnus

Senior member
Sep 18, 2007
332
0
71
www.overclockers.com
No idea, but floppy drives can be had for very cheap. For a guaranteed flash (well, as guaranteed as a flash can get), definitely invest in one. It's worth it; much better than having to wait for a BIOS chip!
 

jonmcc33

Banned
Feb 24, 2002
1,504
0
0
Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal
Note that you may not be able to push an 8x multi CPU much above 3.2GHz with 333MHz RAM.

A lot of complaints about IP35-E revolve around the use of non-JEDEC overclocking RAMs. Folks buy dirt cheap OCZ RAMs rated at 2.1-2.2V and wonder why the board will not post with JEDEC 1.8V default setting. Another potential pitfall is the use of some high-end Antec PSUs with esoteric start up/shut down circuit. The only reliable documented failure mode that I'm aware of is the occasional bad solder joints at the SATA connectors.

Follow my guide near the bottom of my 1st post. Turn off power from the wall. Reset CMOS and you should be good to go.

It's Hynix DDR2-667. Should be fine, right? Seems to be on the compatibility list on a lot of Intel chipsets.

I don't think I'll be pushing it into the 3GHz range. I'm only the slight overclocker type. I have my Opteron 165 and although I have had it to 2.5GHz before I just don't run that fast. I have it at 2.25GHz. I hope to get at least 2.8GHz out of my 6400, that will make me happy.
 

SerpentRoyal

Banned
May 20, 2007
3,517
0
0
Originally posted by: jonmcc33
Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal
Note that you may not be able to push an 8x multi CPU much above 3.2GHz with 333MHz RAM.

A lot of complaints about IP35-E revolve around the use of non-JEDEC overclocking RAMs. Folks buy dirt cheap OCZ RAMs rated at 2.1-2.2V and wonder why the board will not post with JEDEC 1.8V default setting. Another potential pitfall is the use of some high-end Antec PSUs with esoteric start up/shut down circuit. The only reliable documented failure mode that I'm aware of is the occasional bad solder joints at the SATA connectors.

Follow my guide near the bottom of my 1st post. Turn off power from the wall. Reset CMOS and you should be good to go.

It's Hynix DDR2-667. Should be fine, right? Seems to be on the compatibility list on a lot of Intel chipsets.

I don't think I'll be pushing it into the 3GHz range. I'm only the slight overclocker type. I have my Opteron 165 and although I have had it to 2.5GHz before I just don't run that fast. I have it at 2.25GHz. I hope to get at least 2.8GHz out of my 6400, that will make me happy.


You should be fine as long as the nominal rating of the RAM is 1.8V. An easy overclock is with Vcore between default and 1.350, FSB at 333MHz, and memory divider at 1:1. Make sure your RAM is set to the proper voltage and timing in BIOS (see mfr's specs).

You may need to bump RAM voltage to 2.0V if you want to run at 350MHz or higher FSB speed. Most 6400 should be able to hit 3.0GHz with only 1.350Vcore (375MHz FSB x 8 multi).
 

rodrigu3

Member
May 14, 2007
136
0
0
hey serpent, question about the above link - am I correct in saying that these utilities will allow me to make a flash drive bootable?

therefore, would I be able to forego a floppy and update my bios via the usb flash drive
 

EvilSponge

Senior member
Feb 23, 2003
747
0
0
Why not use the abit flash utility and do it in windows? Flashed my Abit P35-E from ver 11 to 12 no problem

-Eric
 

Gramps

Junior Member
Oct 6, 2007
12
0
0
Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal
CPU is at full load in BIOS. Therefore, 35 to 40C is normal.

That's really good to know as it topped out at 40C sitting in the BIOS (I let it stay there about 3 hours and I knew it topped out when I saw it alternating between 39C/40C over and over). Before I realized the stock HSF had thermal paste on the bottom of it (preapplied), I removed it from the chip, realized what the stuff on my chip was, and reattached it. I didn't know if that might have messed up something, so I'm glad to see that it didn't (at least not catastrophically... I know the purpose of the paste is to fill any air holes and provide solid contact between fan and cpu).

Originally posted by: hokiealumnus
What HSF are you running Gramps? Serpents advice is dead on for an easy OC but I wouldn't run 1.465 with the stock HSF. Then again, I'm pretty cautious about these things.

I'm running the stock HSF. I hear about folks buying replacement HSF's and then having trouble making stuff fit in their case. I'm not quite sure I'm ready for that drama yet. On the other hand, I really do think I could have tackled applying Artic Silver 5 (AS5), and it isn't that expensive. I haven't really read up on the benefits of it yet so I don't know if it's a "must do" thing or just something the really advanced folks do to squeeze out that last Mhz. Same goes with the replacement HSF's. I see myself getting a case with some 120MM case fans so overall, the case has adaquate cooling, but I don't think I'd ever get the most advanced HSF's if they are really expensive and/or require lots of contortions to use them. I've seen some HSF's that look like they belong on a drag strip.

Speaking of which, I really like how these computers can monitor so much! Fan speeds, multiple temperatures, etc. It's excellent information to know, especially when you're pushing things a bit. I never really had to worry about it before as I was always running a prebuilt machine from a major manufacturer. That brings me to my question on the 1.465. I'm a bit conservative too, but probably entirely too emboldened by my initial success following SR's instructions. What's the worse that can happen? If I'm understanding things correctly, the machine will either not boot (at which point I can reset things), or it will boot enough that I'd be able to get into the BIOS and notice that CPU temps are way too high and I need to drop down. Am I understanding that correctly? I've seen "heat is a chip's worst enemy" or something to that effect. Is there a relatively direct correlation between CPU temperature and stability? I've read I should be able to assume the chip is OK as long as it stays below 65-70C. If so, my way of being conservative would be to make sure I stay at 65C or below.

You guys have mentioned a few times that I shouldn't install the OS while overclocked. I haven't commented before, but I want to let you know you got through loud and clear. I was experimenting with OC's only in the BIOS just to see what would happen to CPU temps, then going back to defaults. It was a little baby step for me. "Jumping in" so to speak to get the apprehension out of the way.

Oh, one last thing. I know (from reading your link) that there are two types of "CPU" temperature, but I was reporting on the IP35-e's "CPU Temperature" on the "PC Health Status" page of the BIOS. I'm not sure which one that refers to, but I'd assume it's actually CPU temperature and not core temperature as there's only one there. I believe for a dual core machine, there would be 2 core temperatures.

Thanks to everyone for all the excellent advice and help. I don't know if there's a lot of old timers here, but in the early days of overclocking, it was fraught with peril since the clocks were ... "shared". What I mean is if you sped up the CPU, you also sped up RAM, I/O, and everything that depends on the clock since there was essentially only one clock. It wasn't uncommon to be able to speed up the CPU, but have trouble finding a video card that could keep up at the new (non-standard) clock. It was around that time I decided the hassle wasn't worth it. This is a whole new ballgame, and it's a lot more fun to play.
 

hokiealumnus

Senior member
Sep 18, 2007
332
0
71
www.overclockers.com
Folks can successfully flash from windows but it's MUCH riskier than doing so from a DOS environment. It's entirely possible and some folks swear by it. The odds of anything interfering with a DOS flash besides a power interruption are exponentially lower than a Windows flash.
 

SerpentRoyal

Banned
May 20, 2007
3,517
0
0
Originally posted by: rodrigu3
I've heard of people having BAD experiences with the windows flash utility

It should work. Key points to remember:

1. Reset CMOS.

2. Make sure RAMs are stable. Run Memtest86 test#5 for 50 loops.

3. Disconnect PC from internet. Shut down firewall, AV, and all non-essential applications (uncheck all items in MSCONFIG's startup tab). Reboot PC and confirm that there are no other applications running in the background.

4. Launch flash utility and update BIOS. You will need to re-name the 13 Beta BIOS (see my 1st post in this thread).

5. After flash, shut down PC. Reboot into BIOS and load Optimized Default. Save and exit.

 

SerpentRoyal

Banned
May 20, 2007
3,517
0
0
Originally posted by: Gramps
Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal
CPU is at full load in BIOS. Therefore, 35 to 40C is normal.

That's really good to know as it topped out at 40C sitting in the BIOS (I let it stay there about 3 hours and I knew it topped out when I saw it alternating between 39C/40C over and over). Before I realized the stock HSF had thermal paste on the bottom of it (preapplied), I removed it from the chip, realized what the stuff on my chip was, and reattached it. I didn't know if that might have messed up something, so I'm glad to see that it didn't (at least not catastrophically... I know the purpose of the paste is to fill any air holes and provide solid contact between fan and cpu).

Originally posted by: hokiealumnus
What HSF are you running Gramps? Serpents advice is dead on for an easy OC but I wouldn't run 1.465 with the stock HSF. Then again, I'm pretty cautious about these things.

I'm running the stock HSF. I hear about folks buying replacement HSF's and then having trouble making stuff fit in their case. I'm not quite sure I'm ready for that drama yet. On the other hand, I really do think I could have tackled applying Artic Silver 5 (AS5), and it isn't that expensive. I haven't really read up on the benefits of it yet so I don't know if it's a "must do" thing or just something the really advanced folks do to squeeze out that last Mhz. Same goes with the replacement HSF's. I see myself getting a case with some 120MM case fans so overall, the case has adaquate cooling, but I don't think I'd ever get the most advanced HSF's if they are really expensive and/or require lots of contortions to use them. I've seen some HSF's that look like they belong on a drag strip.

Speaking of which, I really like how these computers can monitor so much! Fan speeds, multiple temperatures, etc. It's excellent information to know, especially when you're pushing things a bit. I never really had to worry about it before as I was always running a prebuilt machine from a major manufacturer. That brings me to my question on the 1.465. I'm a bit conservative too, but probably entirely too emboldened by my initial success following SR's instructions. What's the worse that can happen? If I'm understanding things correctly, the machine will either not boot (at which point I can reset things), or it will boot enough that I'd be able to get into the BIOS and notice that CPU temps are way too high and I need to drop down. Am I understanding that correctly? I've seen "heat is a chip's worst enemy" or something to that effect. Is there a relatively direct correlation between CPU temperature and stability? I've read I should be able to assume the chip is OK as long as it stays below 65-70C. If so, my way of being conservative would be to make sure I stay at 65C or below.

You guys have mentioned a few times that I shouldn't install the OS while overclocked. I haven't commented before, but I want to let you know you got through loud and clear. I was experimenting with OC's only in the BIOS just to see what would happen to CPU temps, then going back to defaults. It was a little baby step for me. "Jumping in" so to speak to get the apprehension out of the way.

Oh, one last thing. I know (from reading your link) that there are two types of "CPU" temperature, but I was reporting on the IP35-e's "CPU Temperature" on the "PC Health Status" page of the BIOS. I'm not sure which one that refers to, but I'd assume it's actually CPU temperature and not core temperature as there's only one there. I believe for a dual core machine, there would be 2 core temperatures.

Thanks to everyone for all the excellent advice and help. I don't know if there's a lot of old timers here, but in the early days of overclocking, it was fraught with peril since the clocks were ... "shared". What I mean is if you sped up the CPU, you also sped up RAM, I/O, and everything that depends on the clock since there was essentially only one clock. It wasn't uncommon to be able to speed up the CPU, but have trouble finding a video card that could keep up at the new (non-standard) clock. It was around that time I decided the hassle wasn't worth it. This is a whole new ballgame, and it's a lot more fun to play.

If you don't plan to break 3.0GHz core speed, then you can dial-in 1.35 to 1.40Vcore.
 

hokiealumnus

Senior member
Sep 18, 2007
332
0
71
www.overclockers.com
The temperature reading will depend on your BIOS version. In v.10 & 11, the BIOS will show you the Tcase temperature. In v.12 & 13beta, it will show you one of the cores (or an average of both, not really sure which since it's just one reading). The semi-accepted program to use in Windows is CoreTemp, which will show you each individual core. I like Speedfan because it not only shows the cores but your System, PWM & Case temps. Get the newest beta of Speedfan, which reports the core temperatures accurately. For more on Speedfan, check out this thread over at abit's forums.

A great resource by the way are the abit forums at http:forums.abit-usa.com.

AS5 may help your temps a bit, say 2-3 degrees if you're lucky. That's about how much AS Ceramique helped when I tried it on the stock cooler. Serpent recommends the Thermaltake Big Typhoon for a great aftermarket cooler. After installing it in my own rig, I could not agree more. It's a great cooler and whisper quiet with the stock fan, which you can upgrade by the way. Of course, this would probably fit your description of looking like it should be on a drag strip!

Being totally paranoid about temps, I'd recommend trying to see how high you can get at the default Vcore. The stock HSF should handle that no problem. One step up in Vcore allowed me to get this current overclock (see sig) but was toasty for my tastes with the stock cooler (73-74c), so I ran 2.8 until I got the BT. Now the current one barely breaks 60c with torture tests and after extensive gaming it doesn't break 56c. Now I could safely run at 3.4GHz if I felt like keeping my voltages high 24/7 (which I don't...the whole paranoia thing again ).

Temperature and voltage can both hurt a CPU. It's harder now than it used to be. Your CPU should throttle itself before dying, but that's not a guarantee. Don't let your temps go over 75c and you'll be just fine. No real need to test temps in BIOS unless you feel like it. Load up windows, start up Speedfan or Coretemp and run Orthos to stress out your CPU. If temperatures are good enough after running that for a couple minutes and it doesn't crash (restart itself b/c of instability), you're golden. If it crashes, either back off FSB or increase voltage.

Lastly, you're correct overclocking is much easier now. I am new to it with this build, which is why I enjoy helping folks (and probably typing too darn much!) out to begin with. The PCI & PCI-e bus speeds are locked, so your FSB only overclocks your CPU & RAM. As a bonus, with the CPU: DRAM ratio selection, you can even control how much your RAM gets overclocked.

You should enjoy this board. Have fun!
 

ucaggie

Junior Member
Sep 22, 2007
3
0
0
I have a Big Typhoon with a Q6600 B3 on this IP35-E motherboard. I've remounted the BT at least 3 times, applied AS5 per website's instructions - using very little - and here are my core temps with EIST and C1E off:

*at idle all 4 cores' temps. are within 3C, at load all within 2C; VID=1.30v

Stock speed with vcore 1.30v:
Idle - 40C, Prime 95 load - 69C

Overclocked to 3.0 ghz with vcore 1.30v:
Idle - 44C, Prime 95 load - 74C

I heard that the BT isn't too great for quad cores? Would replacing the BT included fan with something like a 86.5 CFM Panaflo help with the temps.?
 

Blacklash

Member
Feb 22, 2007
181
0
0
Just though I'd sound off on my recent experience. I can keep 3.8GHz stable without increasing the NB voltage however CPU VTT voltage is critical. I have to use the higher value with my Q6600 G-0 or I get odd crashes.

I need 1.6v to do 3.85GHz. I am not prepared to pump that kind of voltage into my CPU. I am sticking with 1.54v and a flat 3.8GHz. I might juice it up for occasional benches above 3.8 and won't be doing it regularly.
 

hokiealumnus

Senior member
Sep 18, 2007
332
0
71
www.overclockers.com
Originally posted by: ucaggie
I have a Big Typhoon with a Q6600 on this IP35-E motherboard. I've remounted the BT at least 3 times, applied AS5 per website's instructions and here are my core temps with EIST and C1E off:

*at idle all 4 cores' temps. are within 3C, at load all within 2C

Stock speed with vcore 1.30v:
Idle - 40C, Prime 95 load - 69C

Overclocked to 3.0 ghz with vcore 1.30v:
Idle - 44C, Prime 95 load - 74C

I heard that the BT isn't too great for quad cores? Would replacing the BT included fan with something like a 86.5 CFM Panaflo help with the temps.?

Sure, the quads run hotter, but it shouldn't be anywhere near 70c at stock speeds with a BT on there. I asked Serpent about the fan upgrade and he said the Panaflo you're referring to should drop temps by at least 1-2 degrees.

TIM install is crucial (IMO). I'm reseating mine this afternoon to see what happens. From reading, it appears applying the TIM and spreading it with a credit card or something similar will get a layer that still fills in all the gaps but isn't too thick either. I've got a feeling AS's instructions leave it on there a bit thick (with my Ceramique anyway).
 

Tangman85

Member
Oct 13, 2007
76
0
0
Tiny bit off-topic about flashing.
Does the double-boot have a chance of harming hardware or is it a longer boot process and that's all there is to it?
 

ucaggie

Junior Member
Sep 22, 2007
3
0
0
Oh yea, with EIST and CE1 enabled and overclocked to 3.0 ghz, core temps are 35 36 33 36 running at 333 mhz x 6. I don't know why there is such a huge difference between idle and load temps. System temp (ambient) is 23C.
 

hokiealumnus

Senior member
Sep 18, 2007
332
0
71
www.overclockers.com
Man....you're even running in a very cool room. I don't have a lot of experience in this, but it sounds an awful lot like your IHS isn't making good contact with the processor. Anyone else share this thought or am I off base?

You could always try lapping your CPU & HSF if you didn't care about warranty. I like my warranty so I'm not doing that until it runs out, but lapping can drop your temps as much as 8-10c.
 

SerpentRoyal

Banned
May 20, 2007
3,517
0
0
Originally posted by: ucaggie
I have a Big Typhoon with a Q6600 B3 on this IP35-E motherboard. I've remounted the BT at least 3 times, applied AS5 per website's instructions - using very little - and here are my core temps with EIST and C1E off:

*at idle all 4 cores' temps. are within 3C, at load all within 2C; VID=1.30v

Stock speed with vcore 1.30v:
Idle - 40C, Prime 95 load - 69C

Overclocked to 3.0 ghz with vcore 1.30v:
Idle - 44C, Prime 95 load - 74C

I heard that the BT isn't too great for quad cores? Would replacing the BT included fan with something like a 86.5 CFM Panaflo help with the temps.?

The medium speed 120 x 38 mm will drop temp about 2C. The big advantage of the Panaflo is higher static pressure at full speed, which will allow sufficient air flow to cool NB and MOSFET heat sinks.

B3 runs hotter than GO by about 10C under full load. You may also want to check the flatness of the CPU heat spreader and BT's copper base. Put a straight edge against the surface. There should be no gap. Also put the MB on a firm surface and apply a downward force of 30 to 40 lbs to the base of the BT. This will squish the thick AS5 for better heat transfer. Note that you will need to use more paste if you don't have a flat surface to "bridge" the air gaps.

I tested the BT with med speed Panaflo vs the TR Ultra 120 Extreme. The Ultra is 3C cooler with my E4300 @ 3.47GHz.

 
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