Abit IP35-E Review (500MHz FSB board)...$90 @ NewEgg + $6.61 ship

[JackMDS]

Same behavior if every thing but the CD is out, or every thing but the HD is out, or if every thing but the Floppy is out. Or any other combination of these components.

The Floppy was added at the end when nothing else worked, I though that I would try to flash BIOS v12, but since it would not boot I can Not Flash BIOS either.

The active components are: Abit IP-35 E (BIOS v11) + Retail E2180 (I tried the E2180 on another Mobo and it works OK.) + 6600LE PCIx Video + 2 x 1GB HP/Micron DDR2 667 (both Video, and Memory work well in other installations).

I use PS/2 Mouse and Keyboard.

-----------------------------

SerpentRoyal, I am old enough to have the patient to read this Thread (A Long Thread in Historical proportion ).

I read it before I decided to buy the IP-35-E. So I already did try most of your recommendations.

I can not run MemTest casue nothing survives Booting.

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Originally posted by: rodrigu3
under what conditions should I consider my system "orthos stable?"
that is, how long should I run it, and what test should I run.

I just ran small fft for 15 min, peak temp was 47C according to speedfan 4.34 beta
idle temp is 30C
no errors or warnings
system is E2180 (2Ghz stock) oc'd to 3Ghz (335 x 9 @1.36V)
mem is crucial ballistix 335Mhz (5-5-5-15-2T 2.2V, 1:1.00)

http://i223.photobucket.com/al.../rodrigu3/1109cce3.jpg

I usually run Othos Large mode for 1 to 2 hours. If okay, then I run Memtest86, test #5 for 50 loops. No single test program can guarantee system stability. The best test is to use your rig. If you encounter problem, then back-off FSB by 50MHz core speed and recheck for problem.

 

[Bonesdad]

Originally posted by: JackMDS
Same behavior if every thing but the CD is out, or every thing but the HD is out, or if every thing but the Floppy is out. Or any other combination of these components.

The Floppy was added at the end when nothing else worked, I though that I would try to flash BIOS v12, but since it would not boot I can Not Flash BIOS either.

The active components are: Abit IP-35 E (BIOS v11) + Retail E2180 (I tried the E2180 on another Mobo and it works OK.) + 6600LE PCIx Video + 2 x 1GB HP/Micron DDR2 667 (both Video, and Memory work well in other installations).

I use PS/2 Mouse and Keyboard.

-----------------------------

SerpentRoyal, I am old enough to have the patient to read this Thread (A Long Thread in Historical proportion ).

I read it before I decided to buy the IP-35-E. So I already did try most of your recommendations.

I can not run MemTest casue nothing survives Booting.

and what power supply are you using?

 

[blackersabbath]

This board gonna work with Corsair XMS2 2x512mb DDR2-800C4?

 

[hokiealumnus]

It should post with one stick if it won't with both. You'll need to immediately go into BIOS and set the recommended voltage of 2.1Vdimm. Extreme cases may need a cheap stick of 1.8v value ram to get them into BIOS to change the voltage. That's the exception rather than the rule though.

 

[hokiealumnus]

JackMDS - please copy your post over to the abit USA forums and list your entire hardware, including your PSU and a link to your RAM. More folks will be able to help you there with more specific problems than the few that check this thread regularly. Serpent is a regular over there as well, so you'll just get help from more angles.

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Originally posted by: JackMDS
Same behavior if every thing but the CD is out, or every thing but the HD is out, or if every thing but the Floppy is out. Or any other combination of these components.

The Floppy was added at the end when nothing else worked, I though that I would try to flash BIOS v12, but since it would not boot I can Not Flash BIOS either.

The active components are: Abit IP-35 E (BIOS v11) + Retail E2180 (I tried the E2180 on another Mobo and it works OK.) + 6600LE PCIx Video + 2 x 1GB HP/Micron DDR2 667 (both Video, and Memory work well in other installations).

I use PS/2 Mouse and Keyboard.

-----------------------------

SerpentRoyal, I am old enough to have the patient to read this Thread (A Long Thread in Historical proportion ).

I read it before I decided to buy the IP-35-E. So I already did try most of your recommendations.

I can not run MemTest casue nothing survives Booting.

If you've loaded default BIOS and still have problem with those components, then you have a bad board. I'm only aware of POST issue with some Antec and Corsair PSUs. The HP RAM should run fine at stock BIOS settings. All components should run reliably without any voltage adjustment.

The box is not sealed. Board is packaged with antic-static bag but should look and smell new. Sounds like you may have received a used/defective board. I'd contact NewEgg (erick.s.sandoval@newegg.com) and request a replacement board with no restocking fee and paid return shipping.

BTW, which PSU are you using? Can you try to POST with either stick of RAM after resetting CMOS.

Try the absolute bare setup. Connect only mouse, keyboard, GPU, and one stick of RAM. Clear CMOS. If no POST, then try the other stick of RAM. Still no reliable POST? We're down to MB or RAM. If you don't have Antec Trio or Corsair 520/620 PSU, then RMA the MB.

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Originally posted by: blackersabbath
This board gonna work with Corsair XMS2 2x512mb DDR2-800C4?

It should boot okay if RAM is rated at 1.8V DDR2 800.

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Originally posted by: hokiealumnus
It should post with one stick if it won't with both. You'll need to immediately go into BIOS and set the recommended voltage of 2.1Vdimm. Extreme cases may need a cheap stick of 1.8v value ram to get them into BIOS to change the voltage. That's the exception rather than the rule though.

He has the HP 1.8V DDR2 667 RAMs. I'm quite sure the RAMs are fine. Only unknown variable is the PSU. I think the board is bad. It should look and smell new. The anti-static bag should not have any fingerprints or major crumple zone. An experienced builder can usually identify a used board by look and smell.

 

[JackMDS]

Thanks guys I would try.

However, let me say that if a Motherboard, needs all of this Hoopla to just work at default setting with mainstream components, then it actually more of a Joke than a Motherboard?

As we talking I tried a cheapo Gigabyte ICH7 Motherboard with the same components Default setting and it runs at 2.8GB.

I was hoping that the IP-35E can stretch more from the same CPU and memory, but if it cannot run at 2GB without Hocus Pocus, I have to do some serious thinking.

Otherwise, if it just happen to be a bad "apple", then I would try another one.

P.S. I have about 10 Abit Motherboard all came with a nice Antistatic bags that fit exactly into the box and usually would be Pink or White with a flip cover

This Mobo came in a regular black Antistatic bag that is two inches longer and wider, it has to be folded in order to fit to the box.

Does anyone remember what his Mobo bag was like?

 

[rodrigu3]

same as yours - I believe this is how Abit packages their stuff

 

[hokiealumnus]

Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal

Originally posted by: hokiealumnus
It should post with one stick if it won't with both. You'll need to immediately go into BIOS and set the recommended voltage of 2.1Vdimm. Extreme cases may need a cheap stick of 1.8v value ram to get them into BIOS to change the voltage. That's the exception rather than the rule though.

He has the HP 1.8V DDR2 667 RAMs. I'm quite sure the RAMs are fine. Only unknown variable is the PSU. I think the board is bad. It should look and smell new. The anti-static bag should not have any fingerprints or major crumple zone. An experienced builder can usually identify a used board by look and smell.

Err...should have quoted. I was referring to Blackersabbath's post about the Corsair XMS. My bad.

 

[hokiealumnus]

Originally posted by: JackMDS
Thanks guys I would try.

However, let me say that if a Motherboard, needs all of this Hoopla to just work at default setting with mainstream components, then it actually more of a Joke than a Motherboard?

As we talking I tried a cheapo Gigabyte ICH7 Motherboard with the same components Default setting and it runs at 2.8GB.

I was hoping that the IP-35E can stretch more from the same CPU and memory, but if it cannot run at 2GB without Hocus Pocus, I have to do some serious thinking.

Otherwise, if it just happen to be a bad "apple", then I would try another one.

P.S. I have about 10 Abit Motherboard all came with a nice Antistatic bags that fit exactly into the box and usually would be Pink or White with a flip cover

This Mobo came in a regular black Antistatic bag that is two inches longer and wider, it has to be folded in order to fit to the box.

Does anyone remember what his Mobo bag was like?

That's how mine came as well. Like Serpent said, you may have gotten a bad board. Try the abit forums. If no results, RMA it through Newegg. I assure you it is a great board, my experience with it has been nothing but ideal. Rock solid, great overclocker and inexpensive to boot.

 

[JackMDS]

Thanks every one.

I am going to put for a replacement and try another board.

Gosh, the line in the post office is wating.............sigh......

 

[SerpentRoyal]

If you don't have Antec Trio or Corsair 520/620, then board should POST with four sticks of HP 1.8V DDR2 667 RAMs after CMOS reset. You only need to go into BIOS to move the optical drive to 1st boot, HDD to 2nd boot, and USB mouse/keyboard support from OS to BIOS. Put CD/DVD in optical drive and hit F10 to save BIOS. Note that Vista will only install in an NTFS partition. I'd send Eric an e-mail about your problem.

 

[JBT]

I can't seem to disable speed step on mine even after disabling EIST and verifying it is set to Desktop in Win XP power configuration. Any ideas? if its idle it always goes back to 6x rather than 9x. Its not a huge deal but it would be nice to set it to 9x when I don't want it to keep jumping back and forth thanks for any help.

 

[hokiealumnus]

Try disabling C1E as well and see if that fixes it.

Have you manually dropped the multiplier while overclocking or to experiment? The two features only work with the default multiplier and funky things can happen if you change multi without disabling them.

If that's not the case and disabling C1E doesn't help, maybe try flashing to the BIOS of your choice to see if that resolves the issue. I haven't tried disabling just one of them before, but I can attest to their leaving the CPU alone if I disable them both.

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Originally posted by: JackMDS
Thanks every one.

I am going to put for a replacement and try another board.

Gosh, the line in the post office is wating.............sigh......

Before you ship out the board, try to deep clear CMOS. Disconnect power from PSU. Remove CMOS battery and set CMOS jumper to clear position. Wait 1/2 hour. Put back items and boot with only mouse, keyboard, GPU, and one stick of RAM. Go into BIOS and load OPTIMIZED DEFAULT. Hit F10 and exit.

If you still experience stability, then RMA the board. BTW, which PSU are you using?

 

[blackersabbath]

Anyone tried running a Fortron 400w with this motherboard? I think that is the PSU I am going to get. I will only be running one SATA, one IDE DVD Burner, E2140 CPU and until I get more money a PCI FX5200 graphics card. I will be upgrading to an x1950pro in a few weeks but to my thinking I should be good with 400w right?

 

[JackMDS]

Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal BTW, which PSU are you using?

Apevia, TurboLink 500W ATX 2.03

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Originally posted by: blackersabbath
Anyone tried running a Fortron 400w with this motherboard? I think that is the PSU I am going to get. I will only be running one SATA, one IDE DVD Burner, E2140 CPU and until I get more money a PCI FX5200 graphics card. I will be upgrading to an x1950pro in a few weeks but to my thinking I should be good with 400w right?

No report of compatibility with Fortron. I could easily hit 3.49GHz with an Antec SP350.

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Originally posted by: JackMDS

Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal BTW, which PSU are you using?

Apevia, TurboLink 500W ATX 2.03

Not aware of anyone who has used that PSU with IP35-E. Can you pickup an Antec Earthwatts 500 from Staples to check for stability? This will eliminate the PSU as a failure mode. I've come across similar symptoms. PSU was at fault.

 

[JackMDS]

This thread is very good a help and you deserve the main credit.

However, this Mobo is New and I am just trying to make it work at default. There No indication on Specification/Data Sheet that this Mobo needs special components to operate as a normal device.

All the specific components that I used to test the board are working with a Wide variety of Motherboards including other motherboard models made by Abit.

If this motherboard needs special components for normal operation it has to be disclosed by Abit to begin with.

As a first step, I am going to exchange the current motherboard with another one.

If the exchange motherboard is going to behave like this one I am going to take it with Abit.

I hope that this is Not the same ?fiasco? as it was years ago with the BE-6 RAID board
that needed to be altered by soldering to make it work.

 

[jonmcc33]

Hey SerpentRoyal, my IP35-E and 6400 @ 3.2GHz are completely stable but the NB heatsink feels very hot to the touch. Just because I like to run my hardware as cool as possible do you think a Thermalright HR-05 IFX would help much?

 

[PushLoop]

First of all, I bought the Abit board based on the comments in this thread. So thanks to SerpentRoyal for clear directions in OC?ing a Core Duo/Quad on the Abit IP35 (-E) as well as using appropriate monitoring and testing tools. In addition, thanks to all the other posters who posted relevant info. My first OC, totally painless but I learned a lot.

I bought the IP35 version for the firewire capability and at the time there was only a $10 difference AR between it and the IP35-E. I was mainly interested in a fast video-processing setup; however, in retrospect I should have gone with the IP35-E and added a 1394 card. The heatflow issue from PWM to MOSFET is probably a negative too. Also used the budget cooler Hyper TX-2 recommended by WolfLover as a perfect fit for an Antec Solo.

Current Hardware: Abit IP35 w/ E4400 L2 version; v12 BIOS, stock Antec Solo, CoolerMaster Hyper TX-2, 2GB Crucial Ballistix DDR2-800, 80GB SATA for the OS (XP), 400GB SATA for the Apps.

Orthos (1 hr) Stable Results:
1. E4400 stable at stock voltage (1.325) up to 2.9GHz, Vdimm 1.8, memory divider 1:1 timing 5-5-5-15. T ambient 20C.
2. E4400 at 3.0GHz (300x10) required Vcore 1.365. Temp results at load: Tcore 57C, PWM 47C, T ambient 19C.
3. E4400 at 3.1GHz (310x10) required Vcore 1.405. Temp results at load: Tcore 58C, PWM 47C, T ambient 16C.
4. E4400 at 3.2GHz (320x10) required Vcore 1.445. Temp results at load: Tcore 63C, PWM 50C, T ambient 16C.
5. E4400 at 3.3GHz (330x10) required Vcore 1.485. Temp results at load: Tcore 68C, PWM 52C, T ambient 17C.
6. At 3.4GHz and Vcore 1.485; Windows would not load. Bumped Vcore to 1.505 but it was not Orthos stable. Found the ceiling so I did not go any further.

Ultimately I dropped the settings down to 3.0GHz where this E4400 is stable with Vcore 1.365, Tcore temps of 57C and PWM at 47C. Final memory settings: Vdimm (1.8V), 4-4-4-12 timing, memory divider 1:1.25 (750MHz). Memtest 24 hr stable.

My original goal was a moderate overclock into the 3.0?3.2 GHz range with a 70C cap on the cores at load so I?m quite satisfied.