Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal
Originally posted by: CP5670
Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal
Which BIOS are you running? Have you flashed 14 BIOS with the "WB" switch (see my 1st post). Did you clean installed windows? Model and age of your PSU and HDD?
It's the default one that came on the board. Not sure what the number/date is, as the BIOS or POST screen don't seem to show it anywhere. I haven't gotten around to updating it since the old floppy drive I had installed appears to be dead. I guess I could do it through Windows though.
I did a clean Windows install when I set up the system but not since then. I run a fairly lean setup though with as few background processes running as possible. RPC and other such processes often give errors when just clicking around the start menu.
There are no signs of instability at all if I'm around and am using the computer regularly (it does Orthos all day at the 3.6ghz speed I normally have it at). At one point I thought it might be the overclock, but as I mentioned the same thing happens at stock speeds, so the temperature drop seems to be the best explanation.
I have a OCZ 520W Powerstream and a WD2500KS 250GB drive, both about 1.5 years old.
Should be 11 BIOS. I would recommend that you download the official 14 BIOS at the bottom of my 1st post. Extra the zip file and edit the ABITFAE.BAT file to include the WB switch.
Command should look like this: AWDFLASH.EXE %1 /py /sn /wb /cd /cp /cc
You can use the flash utility in window to update the BIOS. First reset BIOS. Disable all non-essential applications running in the background like AV and FW. Launch the flash utility and point to the *.BIN file to update BIOS from windows. Shut down PC upon completion. Pull power from the PSU. Hit the power button to discharge caps. Reset CMOS. Reboot back to BIOS and load Optimized Default. Check for boot problem in this state.
Can you also list your RAMs? I've seen similar problem with flaky PSU (very early stage of failure). Note that a cold start will draw a lot of in-rush current from the PSU.
Is the board seeing standby power when your turn off the PC, or did you switch-off the PSU at the AC breaker?
I could think of one test that will probably isolate a bad MB but it's going to take so work. Pull the MB from the case (remove parts as needed to extract board). Remove CMOS battery to discharge the board. Also remove RAMs, GPU, PCI, and PCI-E devices. Wrap the board in a plastic shopping bag and put it in the freezer for one hour.
Now put the board on a non-conductive surface and re-attach the battery, HDD, optical drive, etc. Do this as quickly as possible so you can POST with a cold MB. Short the two power pins on the MB header. If there is no windows corruption after the 1st boot, then the MB is probably okay.