Abit IP35-E Review (500MHz FSB board)...$90 @ NewEgg + $6.61 ship

[MadScientist]

Originally posted by: brencat
By the way, I run all tests in memtest not just test #5. Because as you can see, I failed Test 4 earlier on another setting.

Good info, keep on testing. I run all the tests too after test 5 and 8. If the ram setting is going to fail it's usually 5 first then 8. I'm going to wait until the new vid card gets here before I do any more testing, swapping 1 card between 2 computers is a PITA.

 

[MadScientist]

Originally posted by: Thund3rb1rd
I figured as much. I'll bump up to 3.18 and run my normal applications and see if she's able. I'm not looking to impress or set records. I'm OCing for practicality . CAD mainly, this is also the reason for so much ram. Although, I've discovered that I still can not maneuver though a conceptual 3d rendering as quickly as I would like to. Need a better graphics card , the 8600gt xxx isn't cutting it. So, it'll be a 512mb 8800gt next for me! If they ever make it to sub-$200 :roll:. Then Quad land! Probably an affordable Yorkfield by that time.

That's why I chose this combo for this new system for my son, a graphic designer, who does a lot of 3D rendering. His current 6 year old computer, a P4-3.0 Ghz CPU, Asus 875 chipset MB, is taking him days to do some of his 3D renderings. He's tried Vista 32 with Photoshop CS3 Master Collection and Dreamweaver and claims they are slower in Vista then in XP Pro. I also have a copy of XP Pro 64 that he can use if he finds that they don't perform well in Vista 64. He's using 3 GB ram, maybe the extra 1 GB will help.

Q6600 GO stepping
Geforce 8800 GT (on order)
4 x 1 GB Crucial Ballistix PC6400 DDR2-800
Vista Ultimate 64
2 x Maxtor 300 GB SATA HDs
Samsung SH-S203B SATA DVD Burner
Corsair 620W PSU
Cooler Master Hyper TX2 HS/fan
Antec 900 case

 

[TungFree]

Originally Posted by Tungfree

SerpentRoyalon't know about that Beta. Office 14 works for me.

DragonOrta: Dec/ 6 / 07
I've been trying to get this stupid thing stable for the past few days. Flashed to the official BIOS 14, and that made just about everything worse.

Flashed to beta 14_05, and everything came together. With official 14, it wouldn't take any FSB setting over 425fsb. It would boot and show the clockspeed as what I set it to on the POST screen, but when I got into windows it would be running at stock FSB. And it would double boot up the arse.

To get it to boot, I would sometimes have to turn the PSU off til the red light went off, turn the PSU on, boot, turn the PSU off and repeat three or four times.

Beta BIOS 14_05 is running perfectly. No double boot and it's running at 445fsb, which official 14 never came close to.

The link to the IP35-e Bios Beta#14_08 is http://file.abit.com.tw/pub/do...eta/M630A/M630A_14.B08[/L]

However I have a question How do I use the downloaded file the "*.B08" is not executable, can I use it with the Official #14 and change something in the name to make it work right like change it the .B08 to .bin? then use the #14 package and and edit the ABITFAE.BAT file to include the WB switch.

Command should look like this: AWDFLASH.EXE %1 /py /sn /wb /cd /cp /cc
Right?

The zero fill is still running and will be for a few more hours. I have my floppy disk ready to flash #14_08 edited as above ready to go. I will disconnect all other power users leave only floppy on. Should I clear the CMOS before flashing? Earlier I pulled the battery and moved the CMOS clear 2 pin one over to the left and after 30 minutes returned them to their place as before.

 

[TungFree]

Update:

I finished zero filling, I flashed the Bios to 14_08
I pulled power off and cleared CMOS
Entered the Bios set the Sata DVD as first booot Hard drive as 2nd boot saved it and let it run....

Same thing happened, Power goes off when windows says Beginning windows and the 3 choices come up Quit repair or install. Itried pressing instal and power shuts off. Next try I waited 3 seconds to see what will happen if I do not press enter and it quits right then anyway.

So I went and tried XP Pro Sp_1a different D, same thing.
So Idisconnect the Sata DVD and try an IDE CD ROM and the same thing happened.
So I am now running MemTest pressed C,1,3,5 <enter> 0
it is on the 15th try now will update in a bit when test is done 50 tries.

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Sounds like you may have problem writing data to the HDD when you hit INSTALL. You've tested another PSU. You've swithched HDD. Try another PATA ROM and PATA HDD. Perhaps you've toasted the BIOS.

 

[TungFree]

I just flashed it to 14_08 and it took it
also it kills power without hitting enter just wait 3 or 4 seconsa and it shuts down

How is a bios chip tested? if I get a new one and it does the same crap I am now a month not using my computer, RMA memory RMA Raptor and power had been acting up from the first IDE installation of XP.
I have now low level formated 2 times the Samsung and once the 6 gigabite drive that looks dead now.

You do not think the motherboard has a short in it? because it is on a box now?
it no longer does the siren


The memtest 86 did not show any errors on 50 passes of #5 test as you suggested.

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Have you flashed using the WB switch per my 1st POST. Use 12 BIOS and modify it to include the WB switch. You've tested two PSUs. You've tested RAMs. You've tested SATA and PATA optical drives.

I'd exchange the MB although I cannot identify the defective component at this time. Could be bent pins when you installed the CPU. About the only thing we have not checked is the proper seating of the CPU cooler. That may explain why the PC reboots when it start loading windows (higher thermal load).

Boot into BIOS and report the temperature of the CPU using 14 BIOS.

 

[TungFree]

I have #14_08 Beta Bios and in an earleir post I included the wb switch as well as in the flaSHING OF #12 BIOS i HAD INCLUDED THE WB SWITCH.

how do I report the temperature in BIOS? What are the steps? I never over clocked so this is all new to me. I never had to do all that since 1989. I still need to learn the overclocking steps once the motherboard is doing what it should.

How was I able to load windows on my 6 gig drive if pins are bent?

As to heat maybe that is it.
However, if heat is the problem, why was I able to low level format with a floppy and the power stayed on near 24 hours? DOS is working, Windows Kills the power and is not working.

The power shutting off and going back on on each reset of bios or alt-control-del is making me always wonder if it will come back on , but I never had seen this in any computer before, should it not have stopped with Bios #14_08 Beta?

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Read the manual. There's a section in the BIOS (PC health page 2-18) that would display CPU temp. Use the official 14 BIOS.

ON-OFF reboot is normal for P35 chipsets after CMOS changes. It appears that you may be missing something with the setup. Loading windows should not be a difficult task with many IP35-E users. It's very difficult to isolate this type of problem without being there. The MB is probably okay since you were able to install windows previously.

Memtest confirmed that RAMs are fine. You also tested with two PSUs. I doubt that the HDD is bad. Only other variable is the MB.

 

[TungFree]

Memtest confirmed that RAMs are fine. You also tested with two PSUs. I doubt that the HDD is bad. Only other variable is the MB.

To be sure I ran this morning the entire memtest and it proves to be fine.

I do not know if you recall but I had #14 Bios already in with windows working from the Samsung Hard drive but was crashing so much I
went to #12 Bios. and as you recall the power crashed in mid flashing and was lucky to get 12 in with your help.

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Per my previous post, I think you've missed something in the setup. I stripped my board yesterday in an attempt to duplicate your problem. Only change was the use of PATA HDD.

-Flashed to official 14 BIOS with WB switch.
-Shut down PC and cleared CMOS. Connected 24 and 8 pin power plugs from PSU. Connected mouse, keyboard, GPU, two sticks of RAM, one PATA HDD (master jumper) and one PATA optical drive (slave jumper).
-Rebooted PC. Went into BIOS to set optical drive as 1st boot, and HDD as 2nd boot. Rebooted with CopyWipe CD in optical drive to zero fill the HDD.
-Rebooted with the windows XP SP1 installation CD. Be sure to use SP1 or SP2 only. Windows inspected my system and asked me to install windows.

Windows was working okay until you updated the OS? About the only thing that you have not swapped out is the MB. I don't have any other suggestion. Perhaps you may want to create a post at the Abit USA forum.

I'd contact Microsoft and ask for a replacement windows CD.

 

[danzigrules]

I wish I knew how to OC better.

CpuZ


Screen Shot

1.2 cpu volts

<edit> I just upped the voltage to 2.1 per the specs
corsair twin2x2048-6400c4 memory
2.1 ddr volts

348 Mhz FSB

I am to afraid to just put the cpu voltage at 1.4 volts like the guide says. I run my pc @ 100% cpu usage 24/7, and I don't think the cnps9700 would cool it enough.

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Originally posted by: danzigrules
I wish I knew how to OC better.

CpuZ


Screen Shot

1.2 cpu volts
1.9 ddr volts

348 Mhz FSB

I am to afraid to just put the cpu voltage at 1.4 volts like the guide says. I run my pc @ 100% cpu usage 24/7, and I don't think the cnps9700 would cool it enough.

Use 1:1 memory divider. Need to bump Vcore 5 to 7% above the VID on the box. Keep max coretemp under 60C when loading Orthos large/Prime large mode.

Make sure you have sufficient air flow at PWM and NB heat sinks if you're going to run CPU under full load all day. Why torture the PC in such a manner? Do you run your car at maximum load 24/7? Not many consumer devices are geared for 24/7 operation under full load.

 

[danzigrules]

Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal

Originally posted by: danzigrules
I wish I knew how to OC better.

CpuZ


Screen Shot

1.2 cpu volts
1.9 ddr volts

348 Mhz FSB

I am to afraid to just put the cpu voltage at 1.4 volts like the guide says. I run my pc @ 100% cpu usage 24/7, and I don't think the cnps9700 would cool it enough.

Use 1:1 memory divider. Need to bump Vcore 5 to 7% above the VID on the box. Keep max coretemp under 60C when loading Orthos large/Prime large mode.

Make sure you have sufficient air flow at PWM and NB heat sinks if you're going to run CPU under full load all day. Why torture the PC in such a manner? Do you run your car at maximum load 24/7? Not many consumer devices are geared for 24/7 operation under full load.

Yes, I have it at 1:1 memory. The air flow is probably my concern as the cnps9700 doesn't spew alot of air.

I do distributed computing.

<edit> I edited my first post after you had replied.

Thanks

 

[danzigrules]

new cpuz

got to 3600 with upping the voltage to 1.4, but the core temp is ~69

I guess I should get a new heatsink, even though I thought the zalman was decent. :\

 

[manimal]

The Zalman 9700-which I own-does not do as good as a job on the quad as it did on the Dual core. I had my dual core 6600 24/7 3.4 for a year and it never went over 50 at load at moderate volts. The quad was hitting mid 60s on heavy load at 3.2 so I just ordered a Tuniq and will see what the difference is. I just got one of these boards for 79 bucks no rebate at frys since they seem to be clearing them out. I may go back and buy the lot out and save for my system builds if I like what I see when I install this thing later today-replacing a evga 680i that had a temper tantrum when I went quad.

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Originally posted by: danzigrules
new cpuz

got to 3600 with upping the voltage to 1.4, but the core temp is ~69

I guess I should get a new heatsink, even though I thought the zalman was decent. :\

I wouldn't run any quad CPU @ 100% load 24/7. Why? Cause folks are not paying my electricity bill or wear and tear on the PC. There's a 50/50 chance that a major component in your PC will fail within 2-3 years.

An overclocked Quad will draw 200 watts from the AC outlet. More if you have a high-power GPU. That's about $245 of electricity per year in S Cal.

 

[TungFree]

SerpentRoyal: I'd contact Microsoft and ask for a replacement windows CD.

I will try and install the windows XP on my Athlon Computer to be sure it is not it, to ease your mind. Because yesterday when I tried a different CD with XP Pro SP1a it quit the same way. However it only will take less than an hour to test the CD, on the Athlon PC.

Windows was working okay until you updated the OS? About the only thing that you have not swapped out is the MB. I don't have any other suggestion. Perhaps you may want to create a post at the Abit USA forum.

No it was crashy from the time I installed it backed it up and restored it on my Samsung 500 gig Sata. I assume that even with the zero fill the old 6 gig drive was possibly rockie at best and the backup and restore were not perfect, However trying to flash from 14 back to 12 and nearly messing up the Bios while power died in mid stream of flashing is when problem began I think. Because when you suggested I zero fill the Sata again. I killed it all including the backup of the 6 gig. Since then when I tried to boot with the 6 gig drive it goes to windows XP screen runs a while then power crashes, same as when I try to load XP to my Sata 500 gig.

But I tried to boot with the 6 gig on my Athlon to see if I get to where it asks for drivers, but it does not do any better on my Athlon Rig and never makes it. So the 6 gig must be a bad drive, which worked a while and died. By the way I tried using the same 6 gig IDE to reinstall my system on it gain and it crashed the power in the same place the Sata does.

I will go to the Abit Forum and try to ask what they think is wrong. I will let you know later in the day how the loading of windows XP went on my Athlon PC

 

[SerpentRoyal]

We're dealing with different chipset. Why are you working with SP1a? Microsoft will send you a free CD if you have the proper registration key. Do you have Warez software?

I'm not sure the MB is defective. However, that's the only hardware component that you have not replaced. We know that the PSU, RAM, and optical drive are okay. Only other variables are the MB, the windows CD, and the user.

You should be able to access the BIOS and check the CPU temp.

You're the only person here that cannot load windows exactly at the installation option prompt. This tells me that it's probably a problem with the CD.

 

[Bigbassfrank]

Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal
Some boards may contain a "marginal" transistor that will not operate proper below 63F. When this region of the MB is heated, PC will boot. I cannot confirm this since my five IP35-Es are okay.

I would put the PC in the garage overnight so the temperature will fall below 60F. If the PC will not POST in the morning, then try another PSU (non-Seasonic, Corsair, or TP Trio) if possible. Repair is convered under warranty. I would request cross-shipment.

Also note that this problem may be a by-product of IP35 and some Seasonic PSUs. There are many confirmed reports about failure to POST with IP35 and Seasonic/Corsair/Antec TP Trio. I have TP Trio 430 and TP Trio 550 (version A2). Both work fine with my IP35-Es below 60F.

Hey Serpent,

I overclocked my ip35 got the system to do 3.0 on a E2160 chip..1.405 volt.. Adata 6400 ram..runs orthos great..

But after a week of testing I have come to realize I got stuck with a board that will not boot when the room temp is below 60f.. My back patio room gets down to mid 30's and the system starts but will not start up the video card,,All fans run,,but no post.

Then when the thermometer on the wall goes up to 60f, all of a sudden the system runs great..That's funny stuff..

Looked up the RMA specs and it will cost me more to ship it back , and if I use the cross shipment option. there is a 7 dollar fee. After receipt of the new board the warranty is only 90 days after that..

So I have decided to stick with it and run it only the system indoors.. LOL..Funny this I was going to use this system outdoor? go figure..

I 've been a big fan of Abit..And now a bigger fan of gigabyte..Oh well that's life..Maybe a year from now I will get board of the no post issue and RMA the board and get lucky and receive a IP35 pro? LOL

BBF

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Which PSU are you using? I think we have about 1/2 dozen users here with the cold boot problem. Not sure if it's also related to the PSU. Perhaps we will see more reports if folks keep the room under 60F.

Shouldn't you be responsible only for shipping the bad board to Abit? Not sure why you have to pay for return shipping.

 

[Bigbassfrank]

Thermaltake 430 psu..

I think the psu can deliver enough power?

Tried 3 different type of ram and also pulled video card and reseated it.. All with the same effect..?

BBF

 

[Bigbassfrank]

Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal
Which PSU are you using? I think we have about 1/2 dozen users here with the cold boot problem. Not sure if it's also related to the PSU. Perhaps we will see more reports if folks keep the room under 60F.

Shouldn't you be responsible only for shipping the bad board to Abit? Not sure why you have to pay for return shipping.

I went to Abit 's web site , and got info about the RMA..To cross ship you use paypal and there is a 7 fee for this service..

Not sure about shipping cost.. that could be even more? Right now I am just out a 70 dollar board. After rebate..

bbf

 

[milan03]

ok, I just tried any multi from 6 to 8x and every time i hit a solid fsb 322Mhz.
At 7x323 it won't even boot to windows! I also just updated to BIOS 14 and its the same thing.
My question is: from looking at my problem, does it mean that my Motherboard is incapable of doing anything over 322 fsb or its most likely the cpu?
Thanks fellas.

 

[Heidfirst]

Have you also ruled out it being your RAM?