Abit IP35-E Review (500MHz FSB board)...$90 @ NewEgg + $6.61 ship

[SerpentRoyal]

Originally posted by: Bigbassfrank
Thermaltake 430 psu..

I think the psu can deliver enough power?

Tried 3 different type of ram and also pulled video card and reseated it.. All with the same effect..?

BBF

Probably a bad board. You should ship Abit this board on your dime if you usually run the PC under 60F ambient. That's $10. Abit should pay return shipping. I'd pass on the cross ship deal.

Fed Ex is usually the cheapest.

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Repost.

 

[milan03]

Originally posted by: Heidfirst
Have you also ruled out it being your RAM?

pretty sure it aint the ram since I tried 1 chip in all 3 different slots, then the other one... Plus I always make the rame at 1:1 divider just to rule it out...

Wonder if my mobo might have the low fsb limit... That would suck.

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Originally posted by: milan03
ok, I just tried any multi from 6 to 8x and every time i hit a solid fsb 322Mhz.
At 7x323 it won't even boot to windows! I also just updated to BIOS 14 and its the same thing.
My question is: from looking at my problem, does it mean that my Motherboard is incapable of doing anything over 322 fsb or its most likely the cpu?
Thanks fellas.

Reflash 14 BIOS using WB switch (see my 1st post). Clear CMOS and load Optimized Default. Boot back to BIOS and set RAM and timing voltage to specs. Use 1:1 memory divider. This should get you above 322MHz FSB if you have sufficient Vcore. If you still cannot go higher, then run memtest86 to test RAMs.

ALWAYS RUN AT DEFAULT CPU MULTI: 9x FOR E2160! These chips don't like to run at 7x or 8x.

 

[danzigrules]

Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal

Originally posted by: danzigrules
new cpuz

got to 3600 with upping the voltage to 1.4, but the core temp is ~69

I guess I should get a new heatsink, even though I thought the zalman was decent. :\

I wouldn't run any quad CPU @ 100% load 24/7. Why? Cause folks are not paying my electricity bill or wear and tear on the PC. There's a 50/50 chance that a major component in your PC will fail within 2-3 years.

An overclocked Quad will draw 200 watts from the AC outlet. More if you have a high-power GPU. That's about $245 of electricity per year in S Cal.

Umm, now wait a minute, You assume that because I run my pc's 24/7 that someone else pays for my pc parts and or my electricity bill? That sir is the most ridiculous thing I have ever seen online.

I appreciate your guide, but you assuming that someone pays my bills and buys my pc parts is absurd. Maybe you should venture over to the Distributed Computing Forum once in a while. There are tons of good things going on with "unused" cpu cycles.

In 2-3 years a component failure is of no concern to me. In 2-3 years you will most likely be writing up a new guide on how to make my components wear out faster. Which is "exactly" what overclocking does.....

Oh wait, no it doesn't, running your cpu 100% 24/7 does.


And just for your info, I pay my own bills, mortgage, electric bill and all.


So have a nice day

<edit> spelling

 

[milan03]

Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal

Originally posted by: milan03
ok, I just tried any multi from 6 to 8x and every time i hit a solid fsb 322Mhz.
At 7x323 it won't even boot to windows! I also just updated to BIOS 14 and its the same thing.
My question is: from looking at my problem, does it mean that my Motherboard is incapable of doing anything over 322 fsb or its most likely the cpu?
Thanks fellas.

Reflash 14 BIOS using WB switch (see my 1st post). Clear CMOS and load Optimized Default. Boot back to BIOS and set RAM and timing voltage to specs. Use 1:1 memory divider. This should get you above 322MHz FSB if you have sufficient Vcore. If you still cannot go higher, then run memtest86 to test RAMs.

ALWAYS RUN AT DEFAULT CPU MULTI: 9x FOR E2160! These chips don't like to run at 7x or 8x.

I did follow everything from your first post, and private messages, but I'm not sure what WB switch is.

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Originally posted by: danzigrules

Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal

Originally posted by: danzigrules
new cpuz

got to 3600 with upping the voltage to 1.4, but the core temp is ~69

I guess I should get a new heatsink, even though I thought the zalman was decent. :\

I wouldn't run any quad CPU @ 100% load 24/7. Why? Cause folks are not paying my electricity bill or wear and tear on the PC. There's a 50/50 chance that a major component in your PC will fail within 2-3 years.

An overclocked Quad will draw 200 watts from the AC outlet. More if you have a high-power GPU. That's about $245 of electricity per year in S Cal.

Umm, now wait a minute, You assume that because I run my pc's 24/7 that someone else pays for my pc parts and or my electricity bill? That sir is the most ridiculous thing I have ever seen online.

I appreciate your guide, but you assuming that someone pays my bills and buys my pc parts is absurd. Maybe you should venture over to the Distributed Computing Forum once in a while. There are tons of good things going on with "unused" cpu cycles.

In 2-3 years a component failure is of no concern to me. In 2-3 years you will most likely be writing up a new guide on how to make my components wear out faster. Which is "exactly" what overclocking does.....

Oh wait, no it doesn't, running your cpu 100% 24/7 does.


And just for your info, I pay my own bills, mortgage, electric bill and all.


So have a nice day

<edit> spelling

So you're a charitable person. I have better plan for my $245.

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Originally posted by: milan03

Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal

Originally posted by: milan03
ok, I just tried any multi from 6 to 8x and every time i hit a solid fsb 322Mhz.
At 7x323 it won't even boot to windows! I also just updated to BIOS 14 and its the same thing.
My question is: from looking at my problem, does it mean that my Motherboard is incapable of doing anything over 322 fsb or its most likely the cpu?
Thanks fellas.

Reflash 14 BIOS using WB switch (see my 1st post). Clear CMOS and load Optimized Default. Boot back to BIOS and set RAM and timing voltage to specs. Use 1:1 memory divider. This should get you above 322MHz FSB if you have sufficient Vcore. If you still cannot go higher, then run memtest86 to test RAMs.

ALWAYS RUN AT DEFAULT CPU MULTI: 9x FOR E2160! These chips don't like to run at 7x or 8x.

I did follow everything from your first post, and private messages, but I'm not sure what WB switch is.

If you're running 322 x9, than you may have a not so great CPU. I'm not aware of any FSB wall with this board and E21x0 from 200 to 425MHz FSB.

 

[owbert]

SerpentRoyal, would you advise against purchasing a refurbished version of the abit p35-e? Fry's eletronics has it for 49 bucks; 15 day return policy and 90 day manufacturer warranty. Versus the current, and cheapest, price of 96 dollars from newegg.

Also, SR, would you recommend keeping a E6320 over a E2140/60? The price difference is around $56--i picked up the last on-sale E6320 ($109) from fry's electronics. but now that i think about it, and after looking at the test comparison results on tom's hardware (http://www23.tomshardware.com/...&model2=884&chart=437), with both chips not being OC-ed, it seems the test differences are about only 30seconds. is that worth the 56 dollars?

i plan to OC either cpu chip that i end up with.

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Originally posted by: owbert
SerpentRoyal, would you advise against purchasing a refurbished version of the abit p35-e? Fry's eletronics has it for 49 bucks; 15 day return policy and 90 day manufacturer warranty. Versus the current, and cheapest, price of 96 dollars from newegg.

Also, SR, would you recommend keeping a E6320 over a E2140/60? The price difference is around $56--i picked up the last on-sale E6320 ($109) from fry's electronics. but now that i think about it, and after looking at the test comparison results on tom's hardware (http://www23.tomshardware.com/...&model2=884&chart=437), with both chips not being OC-ed, it seems the test differences are about only 30seconds. is that worth the 56 dollars?

i plan to OC either cpu chip that i end up with.

Hmmm...can you ride your bicycle to Fry's? I think it may take several trips to get a good board. Considering a new board was $60 to $70 AR, I would pass on this deal unless I live next to Fry's.

I think NewEgg with post a $20 rebate this month.

These are basically the same CPU. E6xx0 has more cache. All should run very fast north of 3.0GHz. If you can get the E21x0 north of this speed, then sell the E6320 due to the higher resale value. Running a 7x multi CPU is always more challenging for the MB, RAM, and CPU.

 

[milan03]

Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal

Originally posted by: milan03

Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal

Originally posted by: milan03
ok, I just tried any multi from 6 to 8x and every time i hit a solid fsb 322Mhz.
At 7x323 it won't even boot to windows! I also just updated to BIOS 14 and its the same thing.
My question is: from looking at my problem, does it mean that my Motherboard is incapable of doing anything over 322 fsb or its most likely the cpu?
Thanks fellas.

Reflash 14 BIOS using WB switch (see my 1st post). Clear CMOS and load Optimized Default. Boot back to BIOS and set RAM and timing voltage to specs. Use 1:1 memory divider. This should get you above 322MHz FSB if you have sufficient Vcore. If you still cannot go higher, then run memtest86 to test RAMs.

ALWAYS RUN AT DEFAULT CPU MULTI: 9x FOR E2160! These chips don't like to run at 7x or 8x.

I did follow everything from your first post, and private messages, but I'm not sure what WB switch is.

If you're running 322 x9, than you may have a not so great CPU. I'm not aware of any FSB wall with this board and E21x0 from 200 to 425MHz FSB.

ok. I filled the rma form for exchange.
Hopefully im getting a better one

 

[Bigbassfrank]

Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal

Originally posted by: Bigbassfrank
Thermaltake 430 psu..

I think the psu can deliver enough power?

Tried 3 different type of ram and also pulled video card and reseated it.. All with the same effect..?

BBF

Probably a bad board. You should ship Abit this board on your dime if you usually run the PC under 60F ambient. That's $10. Abit should pay return shipping. I'd pass on the cross ship deal.

Fed Ex is usually the cheapest.

Thanks SP..

For now I will , just box it and decide later.. I have another board, its a gigabyte ds3l p35 .. I will play with that for no..

BBF

 

[LosSkin]

I just built my rig:

Q6600
IP35-e
OCZ 2x1GB Plat Rev2
8800GTS OC 640mb
OCZ PowerStream 700w


my question is, i have the quad running at 3.0ghz - with vcore on default. i had to bump up my NB and SB by 1 setting in the bios to make it stable. Question is, is this safe running 24x7? Temps never get above 50C load this is recorded in the bios and with coretemp.


also i downloaded and installed the latest bios 14 from abit.

thanks!

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Should be okay at higher speed with more Vcore if you enabled C1E and EIST. It's never a good ideal to run any CPU at 100% load 24/7. This is not a steam turbine engine for producing electricity.

 

[hokiealumnus]

Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal
Should be okay at higher speed with more Vcore if you enabled C1E and EIST. It's never a good ideal to run any CPU at 100% load 24/7. This is not a steam turbine engine for producing electricity.

But it can be an agent in the largest distributed computing project, helping perform medical research while you're not using it (Folding @ Home).

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Originally posted by: hokiealumnus

Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal
Should be okay at higher speed with more Vcore if you enabled C1E and EIST. It's never a good ideal to run any CPU at 100% load 24/7. This is not a steam turbine engine for producing electricity.

But it can be an agent in the largest distributed computing project, helping perform medical research while you're not using it (Folding @ Home).

My PC goes off when it is not in use. If they want to borrow my clock time for work, then show me $.

 

[JBT]

My PC turns off as well. I live in Tucson AZ so it can get pretty warm in the summer months. I don't need any Oced CPU's fighting my AC...

 

[milan03]

I returned my E2160 m0 to clubIT since they didnt have the in stock for an exchange... that cpu had a 322 fsb wall, not matter what multi..
Just ordered e6750 from newegg. Should be here by thursday.
Can't wait to see what kind of partnership will that cpu have with my IP35-E

Serpent, what OC should I expect from that chip?

 

[manimal]

Hey guys, just installed this thing when my RMA'd evga 680i had horrible issues right out of the box-third motherboard in the last 2 months-


Everything was cool till I tried to load windows from the pata cd drive to the sata HD. It would start to load the disk then some odd graphical glitches would show on screen and I would have to hard boot. I was able to get a drive that I had already installed windows on to be read and boot into-xp pro-and I tried to see if this board was stable. I have not tried to load a fresh copy yet till I found out what the problem is. I am running stable with a Tuniq a Q6600 at stock right now and have installed all fresh drivers for the board and sound etc from the abit site.


Second Issue I am having is for the bios update. I do not have a floppy and would rather flay myself with a mace then use a windows based flash utility. I have in the past just used burned images of bios disks on cds to update my boards and never had a problem. I guess I can go digging around in my boxes for a floppy...but would rather not.


Thx and great thread


M


BTW just noticed you can download uguru from abits site, anyone try it on the E ?

 

[TungFree]

I went into bios C Health state.
Here are the measurements after 10 minutes:
CPU TEMP 98c/208f
SYSTEM TEMP 34c
PWM TEMP 58c
CPU FAN SPEEDS 2721 TO 2812 RPM
CPU CORE 1.15V TO 1.14V
ddr VOLTS 1.82V
CPU VOLTS 1.24V
ATX +12V
ATX +3.3v



CPU temp seems very high????

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Originally posted by: milan03
I returned my E2160 m0 to clubIT since they didnt have the in stock for an exchange... that cpu had a 322 fsb wall, not matter what multi..
Just ordered e6750 from newegg. Should be here by thursday.
Can't wait to see what kind of partnership will that cpu have with my IP35-E

Serpent, what OC should I expect from that chip?

Probably 3.4GHz. Use default 8x multi.

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Originally posted by: manimal
Hey guys, just installed this thing when my RMA'd evga 680i had horrible issues right out of the box-third motherboard in the last 2 months-


Everything was cool till I tried to load windows from the pata cd drive to the sata HD. It would start to load the disk then some odd graphical glitches would show on screen and I would have to hard boot. I was able to get a drive that I had already installed windows on to be read and boot into-xp pro-and I tried to see if this board was stable. I have not tried to load a fresh copy yet till I found out what the problem is. I am running stable with a Tuniq a Q6600 at stock right now and have installed all fresh drivers for the board and sound etc from the abit site.


Second Issue I am having is for the bios update. I do not have a floppy and would rather flay myself with a mace then use a windows based flash utility. I have in the past just used burned images of bios disks on cds to update my boards and never had a problem. I guess I can go digging around in my boxes for a floppy...but would rather not.


Thx and great thread


M


BTW just noticed you can download uguru from abits site, anyone try it on the E ?

Are you using the official windows CD? Which version of windows are you using? How's your CPU temp?

Search the internet for the HP software to format a USB drive as a boot drive. Also go into BIOS and set the USB drive as the 1st boot order.

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Originally posted by: TungFree
I went into bios C Health state.
Here are the measurements after 10 minutes:
CPU TEMP 98c/208f
SYSTEM TEMP 34c
PWM TEMP 58c
CPU FAN SPEEDS 2721 TO 2812 RPM
CPU CORE 1.15V TO 1.14V
ddr VOLTS 1.82V
CPU VOLTS 1.24V
ATX +12V
ATX +3.3v



CPU temp seems very high????

Nominal is 50 to 55C. As suspected, this is a user error. Reseat the heat sink!

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Did more tests for the cold boot problem with some IP35-E boards (<18C). You may want to go into BIOS and set the boot HDD as the 1st boot device. DISABLE all other boot options. Save BIOS.

 

[manimal]

Thx for the reply. The os load issues I was having was with both the XP-pro install disk sp2- and the XP home disk sp2 as well. I seem to be stable at 3Ghz at 333 right now at 1.35. I know I can bump down the Voltage for this speed but plan on cycling it on and off all week for adequate burn in before serious torture and OC. I had 3.3 stable with this chip on my 680i before my original took a dump. 3 boards later we are trying a trial separation ^^;

Reading about the flash boot options now on the abit boards.

Getting load temps in coretemp of mid 40s with OCCT load.

I have ram at 5 5 5 15 with the rest on auto.

Q6600 G0
IP 35-E duh!
2x2 OCZ plat rev 2 800s that DO boot and test fine at 1.8 and have run at 2.0 at 1000 I have 2 more of these if I can get stable to get ram up to 4gigs-I know 4x4 sucks but I photoshop and edit video
Antec 850-bumble beeeeee
Silverstone TJ-09 with 5x yate loons with silverstone fan controller-all volt modded
4x Seagate 7200.10s 500s currently one 1 installed
gateway FPD2485W 24 inch monitor
BFG 8800GT at 730-1600-950 -
red stapler overclocked to 11

Edit: Merde, I just realised my Tuniq is facing up on my TJ-09 which isnt awful since it has a fan that blows out as well. I may reinstall it but the way it is now the fan sucks the heat off the NB> hmm what to do..................