Abit IP35-E Review (500MHz FSB board)...$90 @ NewEgg + $6.61 ship

[SerpentRoyal]

Originally posted by: Mech0z

Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal

Originally posted by: Mech0z
Now this thread is ennourmous, so how far have people pushed a Q6600 + scythe infinity while remaining stable? I am getting the IP35 Pro this week.

I've seen +3.9GHz with ridiculous Vcore. 50% of these chips should hit 3.4-3.6GHz. You'll probably won't find any of the older/hotter Q6600 in stock.

3.9 with a scythe infinity ??

Water rig. I prefer to keep Vcore at VID plus 10%.

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Originally posted by: bigblockchevy
i'm running bios 12 now . so far the machine has been booting constant over-clocked to 8x400fsb 1.41v core 2.10 vdimm 1:1 ratio . very stable .
knock on wood .

however --in benchmarks the e2140 isn't kicking butt like it was with bios 14 . where is bios 15 with full support for the 21xx's ??

Which program are you using? 12 is faster than 14 with SP 1M and 32M...at least that's what I see with my rig. Video compression numbers are virtually the same (within the noise level of the tests).

 

[Thund3rb1rd]

Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal
Currently running Speedfan 4.33 with official 14 BIOS. No problem monitoring SYSTEM, CPU, PWM, GPU, and HDD temps. OS is WXP Pro SP1. You may want to remove reload Speedfan 4.33. I don't use HWMonitor.

Running XP, SP2 on disc. I did try un/reinstall of speedfan. I don't use hwmonitor for anything either, I just noticed speenfan locking up system, but other monitoring proggys were not. cpuz, coretemp, everest, gpuz, atitool. But, none of those kept up with fan speeds, and I knew hwmonitor did. That's just as far into trouble shooting I got last night, I will fiddle with it some more tonight.

IIRC the only things I've done since the last time I've ran speedfan or hwmonitor was install intel's newer chipset drivers (v8.3.1.1009) and v14 BIOS.

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Not sure why 14 BIOS would interfere with Speedfan. Have you removed/reloaded Speedfan? If problem persists, then reload 12 BIOS and retest. If you see the same problem, then 14 BIOS is not the root cause.

 

[sisq0kidd]

Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal

Originally posted by: sisq0kidd

Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal

If the board is bad, then boot problem will usually surface at the start. Always clean install windows for best stability. The addition of USB card reader, USB HDD, and other USB devices can interfere with the boot. Same with a marginal PSU (not power but quality). There are confirmed reports about no POST with some Antec TP Trios and Corsair 520/620. Which BIOS are you running?

You may have issue with BIOS corruption. If the room is above 65F, then the MB should boot reliably, even if you have a cold boot board.

The Gigabyte DS3L has a habit of resetting BIOS. Some Asus boards have the same compatibility issue with Raptor.

-Use 12 BIOS.

-latest Raptors are known to be buggy with P35 boards

-How cold is the room temp?

-How stable is your overclock? Did you manually adjust RAM voltage and timing per specs? Did you run Memtest to check RAMs? Cold temp can magnify boot stability when cold.

I am running BIOS 14.

I'm not sure if my room temp is above 65F. It's probably hovering around that temperature in the mornings.

My overclock is very stable. Passes Memtest for hours, Orthos, etc. Even if I put things back to stock it still fails at startup. It did it this morning!

Check for boot problem with 68F or higher room temp. Did you encounter boot issues when you first assembled the rig? Did you add any new hardware?

Please flash to 12 BIOS (use the WB switch to reload the boot-block).

When I first got the motherboard, I had the double boot issue. Flashed to BIOS 13, all hell broke loose. Flashed to BIOS 14 (unofficial) and everything was fine except for the occasional borked startup.

Now though, about a month later, the problems are becoming much, much more persistent. One factor did change though and that was my 150gb Raptor hard drive. Now the computer does not restart properly (restarts, then hangs at BIOS screen) and doesn't cold boot properly (hangs at BIOS screen). The hard drive has since been reformatted, same issue.

I flashed to BIOS 12, same problem. Flashed to the official BIOS 14, same problem. Although, this morning I started the computer and it worked. Restarted, hung. Powered off, started, hung. Had to unplug my power supply, plug it back in and start it up again.

Very, very frustrating!

 

[imported_Husky55]

@sisq0kidD

The symptoms of your problems are NOT indicative of a cold ambient (<63F) boot problem.

That problem is very consistent, repeatable and due ONLY to ambient temp.

Your description of your problem leads me to believe your problem is related to the raptor since it started and then hung.

Replace the raptor to see if you can pinpoint this problem.

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Raptor and some P35 boards from Asus and Abit are lethal combo. Some were able to run with these Raptors. Others cannot POST. Doesn't matter which BIOS you're running. Only solution is to avoid these Raptor drives.

I could re-created the 200MHz FSB reset problem with 14 BIOS in the lab. There is no issue with 12 BIOS, because it permits the P35 to do its thing...double post to check system prior to start. If you have tested RAMs and remove other USB devices from the MB that could interfere with the boot, then we're down to MB, PSU, or software bug.

 

[VirtualLarry]

Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal
Basic IP35 and IP35-E share the same MB. IP35 uses an "R" southbridge for RAID. It also add two more SATA ports, 1394, and heat pipe cooling for NB and MOSFETs.

The Pro is based on the same design, plus 100% solid capacitors. The power section appears to be nearly identical, with some minor mods for two PCI-E x 16 cards.

Does the IP35-E have solid caps? For that matter, does the Gigabyte DS3L?

 

[SerpentRoyal]

All Japanese caps. Solid caps only around the CPU socket area...similar to the Intel boards. Reliability should not be an issue quality Japanese caps will run 5 to 7 years without problem.

DS3L uses 100% solid caps.

 

[sisq0kidd]

Originally posted by: Husky55
@sisq0kidD

The symptoms of your problems are NOT indicative of a cold ambient (<63F) boot problem.

That problem is very consistent, repeatable and due ONLY to ambient temp.

Your description of your problem leads me to believe your problem is related to the raptor since it started and then hung.

Replace the raptor to see if you can pinpoint this problem.

Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal
Raptor and some P35 boards from Asus and Abit are lethal combo. Some were able to run with these Raptors. Others cannot POST. Doesn't matter which BIOS you're running. Only solution is to avoid these Raptor drives.

I could re-created the 200MHz FSB reset problem with 14 BIOS in the lab. There is no issue with 12 BIOS, because it permits the P35 to do its thing...double post to check system prior to start. If you have tested RAMs and remove other USB devices from the MB that could interfere with the boot, then we're down to MB, PSU, or software bug.

Thanks for both of your guys' help. Especially you, SerpentRoyal.

I guess I'll just have to ride it out until they come up with a fix, or until I upgrade.

It's weird because I had a 36gb Raptor and it's this 150gb one that's giving me most problems.

 

[sisq0kidd]

Oh one more thing. When the computer starts, it hangs when it starts to display "Memory" in the BIOS.

My memory is good though. Orthos, Memtest, etc. all check out.

When I restart, it hangs right away at the BIOS.

 

[imported_Husky55]

Originally posted by: sisq0kidd
Oh one more thing. When the computer starts, it hangs when it starts to display "Memory" in the BIOS.

My memory is good though. Orthos, Memtest, etc. all check out.

When I restart, it hangs right away at the BIOS.

Are you certain that your memory timings and voltage and ratio are set up properly for your OC ? Details needed.

Usually when system hangs, it's a IRQ conflict or a bad read during bios check due to bad component or unrecognized device.

 

[sisq0kidd]

Originally posted by: Husky55

Originally posted by: sisq0kidd
Oh one more thing. When the computer starts, it hangs when it starts to display "Memory" in the BIOS.

My memory is good though. Orthos, Memtest, etc. all check out.

When I restart, it hangs right away at the BIOS.

Are you certain that your memory timings and voltage and ratio are set up properly for your OC ? Details needed.

Usually when system hangs, it's a IRQ conflict or a bad read during bios check due to bad component or unrecognized device.

Even if I set everything at default voltage and default clocks, it still hangs.

Right now it's at 800mhz clock, 4-4-4-12 timings (from 5-5-5-18).

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Originally posted by: sisq0kidd

Originally posted by: Husky55
@sisq0kidD

The symptoms of your problems are NOT indicative of a cold ambient (<63F) boot problem.

That problem is very consistent, repeatable and due ONLY to ambient temp.

Your description of your problem leads me to believe your problem is related to the raptor since it started and then hung.

Replace the raptor to see if you can pinpoint this problem.

Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal
Raptor and some P35 boards from Asus and Abit are lethal combo. Some were able to run with these Raptors. Others cannot POST. Doesn't matter which BIOS you're running. Only solution is to avoid these Raptor drives.

I could re-created the 200MHz FSB reset problem with 14 BIOS in the lab. There is no issue with 12 BIOS, because it permits the P35 to do its thing...double post to check system prior to start. If you have tested RAMs and remove other USB devices from the MB that could interfere with the boot, then we're down to MB, PSU, or software bug.

Thanks for both of your guys' help. Especially you, SerpentRoyal.

I guess I'll just have to ride it out until they come up with a fix, or until I upgrade.

It's weird because I had a 36gb Raptor and it's this 150gb one that's giving me most problems.

Baby Raptors are generally okay for most users. Dunno why.

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Originally posted by: sisq0kidd

Originally posted by: Husky55

Originally posted by: sisq0kidd
Oh one more thing. When the computer starts, it hangs when it starts to display "Memory" in the BIOS.

My memory is good though. Orthos, Memtest, etc. all check out.

When I restart, it hangs right away at the BIOS.

Are you certain that your memory timings and voltage and ratio are set up properly for your OC ? Details needed.

Usually when system hangs, it's a IRQ conflict or a bad read during bios check due to bad component or unrecognized device.

Even if I set everything at default voltage and default clocks, it still hangs.

Right now it's at 800mhz clock, 4-4-4-12 timings (from 5-5-5-18).

Have you tested RAMs for stability? Have you reflashed 12 BIOS with WB switch? Could be a corrupted BIOS.

 

[sisq0kidd]

Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal

Originally posted by: sisq0kidd

Originally posted by: Husky55

Originally posted by: sisq0kidd
Oh one more thing. When the computer starts, it hangs when it starts to display "Memory" in the BIOS.

My memory is good though. Orthos, Memtest, etc. all check out.

When I restart, it hangs right away at the BIOS.

Are you certain that your memory timings and voltage and ratio are set up properly for your OC ? Details needed.

Usually when system hangs, it's a IRQ conflict or a bad read during bios check due to bad component or unrecognized device.

Even if I set everything at default voltage and default clocks, it still hangs.

Right now it's at 800mhz clock, 4-4-4-12 timings (from 5-5-5-18).

Have you tested RAMs for stability? Have you reflashed 12 BIOS with WB switch? Could be a corrupted BIOS.

I think we're going around in circles...

I already tested it for stability, and yes I've flashed back to BIOS 12.

Same problem. Zap has the exact same problem too.

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Probably some undocumented hardware incompatibility. Most IP35-E users don't encounter this particular issue. We had one user who could not install windows. Memtest was good but installation of windows would always crashed at the same point. Turned-out the heat sink was not properly seated.

Sorry but I'm out of ideas since I cannot re-create your problem here. I've booted at least 500 times between the five boards using 12 BIOS.

To this day, no one could explain with the baby Raptors tend to be more compatible with Asus and Abit P35 boards.

 

[TungFree]

The bottom of my cooler is not flat anyone know if th company of ZEROtherm BTF90 Copper CPU Cooler. They have only a foreign phone and a weird e-mail address I wrote to zero@zerotherm.com to RMA it.

This is the third item out of my list I had to RMA the other 2 were the Balistix ram and the Raptor Hard drive
Western Digital did not send the replacement Raptor as they promised at same time, but waited till mine was received and informed me 4 days ago they will be shipping it that day. So that will get here after Xmas, it has been over a month ago since I bought my motherboard and parts.

I wonder if I will even hear from ZeroTherm anyone had to RMA to them?
If I do not hear from them, what heat cooler do you recommend to get?

 

[RaptureMe]

Hey SerpentRoyal,
Thanks for suggesting the Ip35-E to me.
It has been nothing but great to me since I have bought it minus the little double boot issue that was solved with a bios flash.
I am able too hit 4ghz with my E6700 and the high 3Ghz with my Q6600 GO.
But since I run my system pretty much 24/7 I run my Q6600 at only 3.0ghz.
Anyways to my question.
I was looking around in my cpu-z the other day and noticed that is says I have ICH9-R??
What the heck?? I thought IP35-E doesnt have raid?
I even flashed to 14 final bios and it still shows ICH9-R.
Maybe it was cpu-z so I downloaded the newest version and again it still shows.
What gives?

 

[MadScientist]

Originally posted by: TungFree
what heat cooler do you recommend to get?

That depends on your case cooling and how much you want to overclock your Q6600. If you want a high oc, i.e., 3.6 Ghz, and lower temps, and can afford it then get the Tuniq Tower 120. if you want a slightly lower oc and a little higher temps then get the much cheaper Cooler Master Hyper TX2, now $1.99 AR shipped at Newegg. Both heatsinks will fit this MB with no modding needed. Check first to see if the Tuniq will fit in your case. I checked the base of my TX2 with a machinist's rule and it was flat. I replaced the plastic push pins with a Thermalright Bolt-thru kit from Sidewindercomputers. for $3.95 + shipping. Their shipping charges are very reasonable. I'm currently running my Q6600 at 3.4 Ghz, 1.2775V bios, 29C idle, 50C load (Prime95 Blend stable). I can do 3.6 Ghz at 1.3575V stable but the temps at load are ~60C. The TX2 heatsink's fan has a 3 pin fan connector, but you can change the setting in the bios to 3 pin for fan control.
The downside to using the bolt-thru kit is that you have to remove the plastic shroud/fan assembly from the heatsink to tighten the screws under the fan. The TX-2's shroud/fan assembly has small plastic tabs on both sides of the the shroud just under the fan. You can remove the shroud/fan by gently lifting up on the tabs with a jeweler's screwdriver while pulling out and up. To install it back on, line up the top plastic tab, lower it down and forward and snap it on. I've reseated my heatsink a few times trying out different TIMS and application methods and haven't bent any fins on the HS yet.

Here's some pics of my current setup. Still waiting on a 8800GT from Dell so it will look different, if and when I get it.
Pic1
Pic2
Pic3

Cable management in the Antec 900 could be better. With the psu on the bottom I had to route the 6 pin power cable across the board and under the video card to get to the connector on the top of the MB. I may dremel out 2 holes and see if it will reach from behind. USB ports, audio ports, on/off and reset buttons are on the top of this case. The wires were just long enough to make it to the connectors on the bottom of the MB.

I purchased my blue UV reactive SATA2 cables at PCH Cables, good prices and cheap shipping.

Some final thoughts on this MB after using it for 2 months:
Pros: Price (although I have not received my rebate yet after 8 weeks. Called, it's still processing), excellent overclocker, so far very stable with Vista 64. Booted (double, bios 12) right up on first try with Crucial Ballistiix ram at 1.8 vdimm and Corsair 620W psu.

Cons: still double boots on starts after complete shutdown with official bios 14, and after bios changes. I can live with this. I turn my computer off when not in use. It came with 1 very loose SATA connector. I checked it and it still works but not using it, only need 3 for now. Not using side mounted IDE connector but can see this might be a problem connecting a cable to it when installed in my case. It needs a few more mem divider options, but I guess this amount is standard for P35 MBs, maybe by bios V20 we'll see more. I got spoiled by the 9 mem divider options in the bios of my old Epox nforce4 board. The Auto bios settings, especially ram, do not show what the settings are. You need to run CPUZ to see them.

Q6600 GO stepping @ 3.4 Ghz (9 x 378), 1.2775V bios
Geforce 7600GT
4 x 1 GB Crucial Ballistix PC6400
Vista Ultimate 64
2 x Maxtor 300 GB SATA HDs
Samsung SH-S203B SATA DVD Burner
Corsair 620W PSU
Cooler Master Hyper TX2 HS/fan
Antec 900 case

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Originally posted by: TungFree
The bottom of my cooler is not flat anyone know if th company of ZEROtherm BTF90 Copper CPU Cooler. They have only a foreign phone and a weird e-mail address I wrote to zero@zerotherm.com to RMA it.

This is the third item out of my list I had to RMA the other 2 were the Balistix ram and the Raptor Hard drive
Western Digital did not send the replacement Raptor as they promised at same time, but waited till mine was received and informed me 4 days ago they will be shipping it that day. So that will get here after Xmas, it has been over a month ago since I bought my motherboard and parts.

I wonder if I will even hear from ZeroTherm anyone had to RMA to them?
If I do not hear from them, what heat cooler do you recommend to get?

You can lap the CPU cooler but that would void the warranty. I like the Big Typhoon...modded with a medium speed 120 x 38mm Panaflo. Open box is $18 plus $6 shipping. Watch hot deals forum for this sale.

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Originally posted by: RaptureMe
Hey SerpentRoyal,
Thanks for suggesting the Ip35-E to me.
It has been nothing but great to me since I have bought it minus the little double boot issue that was solved with a bios flash.
I am able too hit 4ghz with my E6700 and the high 3Ghz with my Q6600 GO.
But since I run my system pretty much 24/7 I run my Q6600 at only 3.0ghz.
Anyways to my question.
I was looking around in my cpu-z the other day and noticed that is says I have ICH9-R??
What the heck?? I thought IP35-E doesnt have raid?
I even flashed to 14 final bios and it still shows ICH9-R.
Maybe it was cpu-z so I downloaded the newest version and again it still shows.
What gives?

You have ICH9...no -R with IP35-E. Glad the board work well for you.

 

[sisq0kidd]

Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal
Probably some undocumented hardware incompatibility. Most IP35-E users don't encounter this particular issue. We had one user who could not install windows. Memtest was good but installation of windows would always crashed at the same point. Turned-out the heat sink was not properly seated.

Sorry but I'm out of ideas since I cannot re-create your problem here. I've booted at least 500 times between the five boards using 12 BIOS.

To this day, no one could explain with the baby Raptors tend to be more compatible with Asus and Abit P35 boards.

So now I'm on BIOS 12 still. Booted up this morning fine, so hopefully the trend continues. Although, now I'm back to the double booting, but I can live with that.

 

[SerpentRoyal]

I'm not sure if Abit can develop a bug-free BIOS that doesn't double post. The Abit IP35 Pro is almost perfect, but the BIOS is still susceptible to occasional corruption. These P35 chips need the double post to properly configure some parameters.

 

[GundamF91]

Serpent, does IP35 Pro boot any differently compared to IP35E? ie. double booting.