Someone asked earlier, but it wasn't exactly answered fully: Will Yorkfield (Q9450/Q9650) work with this board?
Originally posted by: AkumaX
Someone asked earlier, but it wasn't exactly answered fully: Will Yorkfield (Q9450/Q9650) work with this board?
SerpentRoyal: Go to the realtek home page to download the latest audio drivers. That said, I don't have any issue with the drivers from the CD.
Originally posted by: TungFree
SerpentRoyal: Go to the realtek home page to download the latest audio drivers. That said, I don't have any issue with the drivers from the CD.
OK so I restored the no drivers fresh install to my Raptor, installed Intel drive, rebooted. installed Lan driver, rebooted, while installing the audio driver from CD the requesters of found new audio buss device had to be clicked off again and again. Rebooted again the requester found new audio bus device come up...
I am running #14 bios.
Remember this happened now 4 times each time I try the r164 or the 158 on CD
I install the first 2 drivers as you said and the audio driver is third I reboot each time.
Why am I having this problem? I went to realtech site and downloaded their WDM driverr184 dlatest driver, but what is going on is ridiculous.
Originally posted by: TungFree
OK so I restored the no drivers fresh install to my Raptor, installed Intel drive, rebooted. installed Lan driver, rebooted, while installing the audio driver from CD the requesters of found new audio buss device had to be clicked off again and again. Rebooted again the requester found new audio bus device come up...
I am running #14 bios.
Remember this happened now 4 times each time I try the r164 or the 158 on CD
I install the first 2 drivers as you said and the audio driver is third I reboot each time.
Why am I having this problem? I went to realtech site and downloaded their WDM driverr184 dlatest driver, but what is going on is ridiculous.
Originally posted by: AkumaX
Someone asked earlier, but it wasn't exactly answered fully: Will Yorkfield (Q9450/Q9650) work with this board?
Heidfirst: There is a known problem (not just on IP35s or abits) with trying to install the Realtek HD drivers which is usually down to an MS UAA HD audio bus driver - it's possible that this could be your problem.
Originally posted by: TungFree
Heidfirst: There is a known problem (not just on IP35s or abits) with trying to install the Realtek HD drivers which is usually down to an MS UAA HD audio bus driver - it's possible that this could be your problem.
So what is the meaning of "...which is usually down to an MS UAA HD audo buss driver..." that sound Chinese to me.
what is MS what is UAA and what is HD?
HD is High Definition
MS is Microsoft?
UAA is Universal Audio Architecture?
How do I check that out to know that it is my problem?
How do I fix it if it is my problem??
Microsoft has come out with a new can someone read this link and make sense of it if this is the solution Microsoft UAA software
Originally posted by: surisshh
Originally posted by: AkumaX
Someone asked earlier, but it wasn't exactly answered fully: Will Yorkfield (Q9450/Q9650) work with this board?
How about Wolfdale(E8400)?Need bios update too?
I updated my Realtek HD audio driver last week. Not sure about a fresh Win XP install, but with an update the first time I ran the Vista_R184.exe file (WDM_R84.exe file for Win XP) it uninstalled my old audio drivers and then I had to reboot and run the file again to install the new drivers.Originally posted by: TungFree
I have zero filled my Raptor Hard drive,
I fresh installed WinXP SP2,
Backed it up as an image file.
I installed the MS drivers reboot
I installed Lan Drivers reboot
I installed the latest Realtech High Defenition Audio driver downloaded yesterday from real tech site, rebooted.
Same exact problem it notifies it found a new hardware Hd audio one.
SerpentRoyal: 'm not aware of this problem with the IP35-E. Start out with a bare board and only CPU, GPU, mouse, keyboard, RAM, optical drive, and HDD. Clean install windows. Use a PS/2 mouse if possible to install chipset driver since USB will be disabled after installation. Install Intel chipset. Reboot. Install LAN. Reboot. Install sound (ignore the pop-up...wait for program to ask you to restart PC). Reboot.
All IP35-E boards should behave in the same manner at this stage of driver installation because they use the same sound chip.
Just clean installed WXP Pro SP2 on one of my IP35-E test rig. Total time is under 25 minutes using Seagate PATA 320GB 7200.10 and BenQ 1650 DVD burner. I use FAT32 file system. 14 BIOS with E4300 @ 3.49GHz.
Intel chipset...latest P35 from intel website
LAN...from Marvel website 5x6n v10.27.5.3
Sound...from Realtek website WDM R182
Originally posted by: TungFree
SerpentRoyal: 'm not aware of this problem with the IP35-E. Start out with a bare board and only CPU, GPU, mouse, keyboard, RAM, optical drive, and HDD. Clean install windows. Use a PS/2 mouse if possible to install chipset driver since USB will be disabled after installation. Install Intel chipset. Reboot. Install LAN. Reboot. Install sound (ignore the pop-up...wait for program to ask you to restart PC). Reboot.
All IP35-E boards should behave in the same manner at this stage of driver installation because they use the same sound chip.
Just clean installed WXP Pro SP2 on one of my IP35-E test rig. Total time is under 25 minutes using Seagate PATA 320GB 7200.10 and BenQ 1650 DVD burner. I use FAT32 file system. 14 BIOS with E4300 @ 3.49GHz.
Intel chipset...latest P35 from intel website
LAN...from Marvel website 5x6n v10.27.5.3
Sound...from Realtek website WDM R182
some pretty unbelievable discoveries and solutions solved:
First the mystery of the audio. Installing the MSI drivers from the CD installed that needed HD Audio including the video. and all is now well with that.
the video card must need a separate audio driver for itself and confused us all at it.... using the same wording as the driver for sound in the motherboard integration.
Next
My Cooler replacement arrived yesterday, it had some damage on the fins. I disconnected the cooler, and took out the motherboard. Turning it over and removing the cooler retainer from the bottom of the motherboard, I discovered that when the CPU had been overheating it put gookie gummy glue melted off the retainer into 4 areas of clumps, so when I had 3 weeks ago tightened the screws and things ran cooler but not cool enough, it looked like that may have been the problem to prevent a tight seating.
I took some denatured alcohol and removed all the ***** gum from the bottom of the motherboard where the retainer had been, and used the new retainer that came with the replacement fan ( because the old one had ***** gum on it stuck too. I wiped off the old cooling grease and replaced it with new and tightened the securing 4 screws into the new retainer with the old fan/cooler. I fired it up and tested it with the large ones in p95V255 and coretemp after 20 mins read:
54
48
48
54
running at 3ghz 9x338 FSB 3.32v Vcore and the Rams on auto for 20 minutes the above temps remained stable.
What tweaks next?? my major problems are over. (What a energy drain mind twisting saga Bwahahahahahah
What Ram settings? leave the ram in auto or reset at set at what?
Any other settings to try to complete this mission?
SerpentRoyal: Hmmm...that damn ATI shit again. Didn't have this problem with my Nvidia card. Leave the RAM at 2.0V with 5-5-5-15-2T timing and 1:1 memory divider. Crank up Vcore and FSB. Once you have a maximum stable core speed, then use the memory divider to overclock RAM. You can also try 4-4-4-12-2T.
Originally posted by: TungFree
SerpentRoyal: Hmmm...that damn ATI shit again. Didn't have this problem with my Nvidia card. Leave the RAM at 2.0V with 5-5-5-15-2T timing and 1:1 memory divider. Crank up Vcore and FSB. Once you have a maximum stable core speed, then use the memory divider to overclock RAM. You can also try 4-4-4-12-2T.
Since my original ambition was to over clock to 3.0 mhz, and I do not want to push it much higher, because I had overheated my CPU so hard while I was zero filling the 500 gig near 18 hours at temperature of 100C when it was not seated but outside the case the siren stopped.
Therefore I am uncertain if I should go as far as 3.2ghz overclock or leave it at 3.0. So I definitely I do not want to push it over 3.2 for testing purposes and may crank it down to 3.0.
So for a 3.2 what do I crank up in Vcore and FSB I am scared to guess which combinations to use.
"...When you finally decide on an overclock number, you'll want to go back and minimize your voltages to minimize your heat production..." From overclocking tutorial.
How do I judge what to start and what to leave it at?
I am at 9x338 = 3042
Say I go to the below Multiplier and FSB:
356x9 = 3204
Then what voltage do I start with and how do I know I have lowered it enough but not too much? and what do I change the 1:1 ratio to? In the tutorial he said that at best you can get about a 3% increase raising the ratio and that the heat increase is not worth it and to leave it at 1:1, so I am asking because I have never overclocked.
Lastly when I have lowered the voltage enough do I then switch from auto in the memory timing to 4-4-4-12-2T
Those are confusing even after reading the tutorial. on this server's CPU and Overclocking.
I teach Math and my kids would get zeros if I threw that sort of an overwhelm at them without a ladder with steps they are able to maintain understanding, they are not going to be overwhelmed with all the variables.
From what I recall you suggested to keep the ratio at 1:1. and so does the tutorial-for least heat. What advantage is it to raise it higher? and how much higher? the tutorial discourages it.
You say Leave the RAM at 2.0V with 5-5-5-15-2T timing and 1:1 memory divider, but earlier you said leave them at auto. I have them at auto now.
In the tutorial it says if I leave them at Auto the voltage creeps up and can damage the Rams so from Auto how do I reset it at 5-5-5-15-2T? and how do I try 4-4-4-12-2T setting? Once I take it off Auto it will be obvious how to set those 2 values above? What do I watch for to know the trial of 4-4-4-12-2T was good or bad? ?
Originally posted by: Thund3rb1rd
flashed to v14 BIOS.
now proggys that read fan speed (speedfan, HWMonitor) are totally locking up system , can't even ctl-alt-del
not that I can't function without them, just weird, haven't heard of this problem yet
Originally posted by: Thund3rb1rd
Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal
Currently running Speedfan 4.33 with official 14 BIOS. No problem monitoring SYSTEM, CPU, PWM, GPU, and HDD temps. OS is WXP Pro SP1. You may want to remove reload Speedfan 4.33. I don't use HWMonitor.
Running XP, SP2 on disc. I did try un/reinstall of speedfan. I don't use hwmonitor for anything either, I just noticed speenfan locking up system, but other monitoring proggys were not. cpuz, coretemp, everest, gpuz, atitool. But, none of those kept up with fan speeds, and I knew hwmonitor did. That's just as far into trouble shooting I got last night, I will fiddle with it some more tonight.
IIRC the only things I've done since the last time I've ran speedfan or hwmonitor was install intel's newer chipset drivers (v8.3.1.1009) and v14 BIOS.
Originally posted by: cromelex
I am thinking of buying one of these boards, but I'd like to know some things before.
I have a E6600, an Asus 8800 GTS 320mb and an old Soundblaster Live! SoundCard, as well as 1x250GB SATA2 HDD and 1x250GB IDE HDD, and also a IDE DVD drive.
I'm thinking of upgrading my ram and motherboard, and I would like to pack this board with 2x1GB A-DATA Extreme Vitesta 6400, which are cheap(er than most) and can do 5-5-5-15 @ 1066mhz.
I've read somewhere in this topic that the best would be having the ram maxed out at the default timmings (4-4-4-12), is that right?. I assume the motherboard has the necessary dividers for either option?
Has anyone tested this board with an OCZ Vendetta cooler?
Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal
Originally posted by: cromelex
I am thinking of buying one of these boards, but I'd like to know some things before.
I have a E6600, an Asus 8800 GTS 320mb and an old Soundblaster Live! SoundCard, as well as 1x250GB SATA2 HDD and 1x250GB IDE HDD, and also a IDE DVD drive.
I'm thinking of upgrading my ram and motherboard, and I would like to pack this board with 2x1GB A-DATA Extreme Vitesta 6400, which are cheap(er than most) and can do 5-5-5-15 @ 1066mhz.
I've read somewhere in this topic that the best would be having the ram maxed out at the default timmings (4-4-4-12), is that right?. I assume the motherboard has the necessary dividers for either option?
Has anyone tested this board with an OCZ Vendetta cooler?
I would avoid any RAM that's not rated for 1.8V operation. Quality 1.8V DDR2 800 should be able to run at 1.8V/400/4-4-4-12-2T, 2.1V/450/4-4-4-12-2T, or 2.1V/500/5-5-5-15-2T. The sweet spoot for RAM is around 450MHz/4-4-4-12-2T or lower timing. Faster RAM speed will require additional relaxation of timing (no gain in performance).
For that particular chip, use 1:1 memory divider and 4-4-4-12 timing to achieve the most stable core speed. Next step is to try 1:120 memory divider with 4-4-4-12 timing.
Originally posted by: cromelex
Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal
Originally posted by: cromelex
I am thinking of buying one of these boards, but I'd like to know some things before.
I have a E6600, an Asus 8800 GTS 320mb and an old Soundblaster Live! SoundCard, as well as 1x250GB SATA2 HDD and 1x250GB IDE HDD, and also a IDE DVD drive.
I'm thinking of upgrading my ram and motherboard, and I would like to pack this board with 2x1GB A-DATA Extreme Vitesta 6400, which are cheap(er than most) and can do 5-5-5-15 @ 1066mhz.
I've read somewhere in this topic that the best would be having the ram maxed out at the default timmings (4-4-4-12), is that right?. I assume the motherboard has the necessary dividers for either option?
Has anyone tested this board with an OCZ Vendetta cooler?
I would avoid any RAM that's not rated for 1.8V operation. Quality 1.8V DDR2 800 should be able to run at 1.8V/400/4-4-4-12-2T, 2.1V/450/4-4-4-12-2T, or 2.1V/500/5-5-5-15-2T. The sweet spoot for RAM is around 450MHz/4-4-4-12-2T or lower timing. Faster RAM speed will require additional relaxation of timing (no gain in performance).
For that particular chip, use 1:1 memory divider and 4-4-4-12 timing to achieve the most stable core speed. Next step is to try 1:120 memory divider with 4-4-4-12 timing.
The ram says 2.0 / 2.1v, so I'm not sure whether it would work at 1.8. I guess not.
I do not wish to overclock it past 3.2 ghz.SurpentRoyal: A safe overclock is VID plus 5% if you have a good CPU cooler. Use 1:1 memory divider and leave memory settings @ AUTO. Raise FSB by 5MHz and run Orthos large mode for 10 minutes. Peak CPU temp should not exceed 60-62C. Continue to raise FSB by 5MHz until Orthos failure. Now back-off FSB by 3MHz and run Orthos for 60 to 120 minutes. If okay, then you can stop here.
It is also possible to overclock RAM. Use the same core speed as above but change the memory timing to 4-4-4-12 (top settings on page 2-9). Also raise DDR2 voltage to 2.0. Finally, you could try 1:1.20 memory divider for higher RAM speed. Run Orthos again for 60 to 120 minutes to confirm that the system is stable.