Abit IP35-E Review (500MHz FSB board)...$90 @ NewEgg + $6.61 ship

[Heller]

This might be in the wrong forum, but if anybody is looking to offload a spare/ selling a used p35-e, let me know!

Im very interested in purchasing this board, and it seems i miss out on neweggs deals every time

 

[Heidfirst]

BIOS 15 ftp://ftp.abit.com.tw/pub/down.../bios/ip35/m630a15.zip

BIOS release V15 for IP35, IP35-E

Release information:

[ENGLISH]

1. Fixed Audio abnormality.
2. BIOS compiled date: 01/11/2008.

 

[imported_Husky55]

Originally posted by: hokiealumnus

Originally posted by: monohouse
three is a problem I don't know if it's only with this BIOS (12) or is it a board problem in general, but:

I have water cooling as stated in signature, and I have booting problems with it: the system does not boot when room temperature is below 15 C, right now the room temp is 11 C, and the system did not boot, what happens is that there is no double post, there is no post at all, I had to take apart the whole system several times to figure that out, just to realize that the temperature was the problem, when I power off the system, and then turn it back on at temperatures that are low than 15 C, it just does not boot, the fans and water is going but nothing on screen, just nothing happens

so I invented an idea: I turn it on, and just let it be on without posting, then after a few minutes all components become hotter, and then shutdown and quickly turn on, then it boots !

weird shitt ! wtf !

I have the same problem. There is a transistor above and to the right of the CPU socket. If you aim a hair drier at that location for a few (~10) seconds, it'll boot right up. Since I never power down the PC and NC rarely gets cold enough to bother it when I do, I'm not going to. You do, however, have a defective product and should RMA it if it's a problem for you. Several who had the issue report it solved after RMA'ing their boards. It appears there was just a bad batch of transistors.

I have the same problem.

It's getting cold again in the NE.

 

[kknd1967]

it is really good to have a case like Antec Nine-Hundred for IP35-E with a big fan on top; so that you can blow hot air directly into that area without taking off the side panel

Originally posted by: Husky55

Originally posted by: hokiealumnus

Originally posted by: monohouse
three is a problem I don't know if it's only with this BIOS (12) or is it a board problem in general, but:

I have water cooling as stated in signature, and I have booting problems with it: the system does not boot when room temperature is below 15 C, right now the room temp is 11 C, and the system did not boot, what happens is that there is no double post, there is no post at all, I had to take apart the whole system several times to figure that out, just to realize that the temperature was the problem, when I power off the system, and then turn it back on at temperatures that are low than 15 C, it just does not boot, the fans and water is going but nothing on screen, just nothing happens

so I invented an idea: I turn it on, and just let it be on without posting, then after a few minutes all components become hotter, and then shutdown and quickly turn on, then it boots !

weird shitt ! wtf !

I have the same problem. There is a transistor above and to the right of the CPU socket. If you aim a hair drier at that location for a few (~10) seconds, it'll boot right up. Since I never power down the PC and NC rarely gets cold enough to bother it when I do, I'm not going to. You do, however, have a defective product and should RMA it if it's a problem for you. Several who had the issue report it solved after RMA'ing their boards. It appears there was just a bad batch of transistors.

I have the same problem.

It's getting cold again in the NE.

 

[imported_Husky55]

Originally posted by: kknd1967
it is really good to have a case like Antec Nine-Hundred for IP35-E with a big fan on top; so that you can blow hot air directly into that area without taking off the side panel

Originally posted by: Husky55

Originally posted by: hokiealumnus

Originally posted by: monohouse
three is a problem I don't know if it's only with this BIOS (12) or is it a board problem in general, but:

I have water cooling as stated in signature, and I have booting problems with it: the system does not boot when room temperature is below 15 C, right now the room temp is 11 C, and the system did not boot, what happens is that there is no double post, there is no post at all, I had to take apart the whole system several times to figure that out, just to realize that the temperature was the problem, when I power off the system, and then turn it back on at temperatures that are low than 15 C, it just does not boot, the fans and water is going but nothing on screen, just nothing happens

so I invented an idea: I turn it on, and just let it be on without posting, then after a few minutes all components become hotter, and then shutdown and quickly turn on, then it boots !

weird shitt ! wtf !

I have the same problem. There is a transistor above and to the right of the CPU socket. If you aim a hair drier at that location for a few (~10) seconds, it'll boot right up. Since I never power down the PC and NC rarely gets cold enough to bother it when I do, I'm not going to. You do, however, have a defective product and should RMA it if it's a problem for you. Several who had the issue report it solved after RMA'ing their boards. It appears there was just a bad batch of transistors.

I have the same problem.

It's getting cold again in the NE.

I have the same Antec 180B with 4 fans.

 

[amheck]

Does anyone have a Arctic Freezer Pro 7 mounted to this board? I went to install mine today (just got the board today) and when the fan faces the RAM sticks, the plastic casing of the fan hits the NB heatsink.

I think I should be able to turn it around to blow the warm air the other day, but not sure if that's a good idea or not.

Thanks in advance. Looks like I'm at a stopping point for now....

Aaron

PS cross-posted this to the cooling forum, too.

 

[hokiealumnus]

Originally posted by: amheck
Does anyone have a Arctic Freezer Pro 7 mounted to this board? I went to install mine today (just got the board today) and when the fan faces the RAM sticks, the plastic casing of the fan hits the NB heatsink.

I think I should be able to turn it around to blow the warm air the other day, but not sure if that's a good idea or not.

Thanks in advance. Looks like I'm at a stopping point for now....

Aaron

PS cross-posted this to the cooling forum, too.

The AC Freezer 7 Pro needs a little "editing" to fit on the -E. You need to move the fan up a couple notches and bend the fins to fit over the NB. Haven't done it myself, but someone was nice enough to forward their photos to me. To wit:

Photo 1
Photo 2

 

[amheck]

man, thanks. that was embarassingly easy. Had I given the cooler a good lookover, I would have seen that the fan was movable.

Appreciate it!

Aaron

 

[osage]

I just got this mobo today, followed the tips in this thread...eazy OC to 3.2 ghz.
I will try for 3.4 after work tommorrow.
I like this mobo, my first Intel setup since the P3 days.

 

[manimal]

Originally posted by: osage
I just got this mobo today, followed the tips in this thread...eazy OC to 3.2 ghz.
I will try for 3.4 after work tommorrow.
I like this mobo, my first Intel setup since the P3 days.

Congrats on your build! Let us know your specs and what you end up getting.

 

[bigblockchevy]

it is transistor T04. i have had two ip35e MBs with the same problem. i sent the first one back for an RMA. haven't gotten it back yet.

the second ip35e --i have installed a resistor on a splice in the 5v line at a point where it warms up the t04 transistor. the MB still needs a little heat to post above 9c. the defective mbs have problems posting at temps below 17c --

i will RMA the second MB when the first returns from abit. the thing is the second mb would be great if it didn't have this annoying cold boot problem.

i would just RMA the MB if i was you. the MB has a repair/replace for one year--so it should only cost shipping to abit to get it repaired.

i thought about replacing the transistor myself. but it is very tiny-

 

[Heidfirst]

Originally posted by: bigblockchevythe MB has a repair/replace for one year--

abit's US warranty is 3 years iirc (2 years parts & labour free, 3rd year parts free but $25 charge for labour).

 

[bigblockchevy]

bios15

it seems to work. so far it benchmarks about like 14 which has been tuned for e6300&e21xx cpu's . it should also have been tuned for 45nm cpus. IF it will boot up without "loosing" all your over clock settings we may finally have a winner.

 

[bigblockchevy]

bois-15

spoke too soon--bios 15 is just 14--re labeled 15. when you turn off standby power to the system. the computer on re-start "looses" all your over clock settings. good bios otherwise--just like 14 was.

what i can't understand is that my biostar pt35d2A7 never does this--nor does my DFi blood iron p35. somebody over at abit needs to go to work on this bios. i think i am going to flash back to 12!

 

[Tempered81]

Originally posted by: hokiealumnus

Originally posted by: amheck
Does anyone have a Arctic Freezer Pro 7 mounted to this board? I went to install mine today (just got the board today) and when the fan faces the RAM sticks, the plastic casing of the fan hits the NB heatsink.

I think I should be able to turn it around to blow the warm air the other day, but not sure if that's a good idea or not.

Thanks in advance. Looks like I'm at a stopping point for now....

Aaron

PS cross-posted this to the cooling forum, too.

The AC Freezer 7 Pro needs a little "editing" to fit on the -E. You need to move the fan up a couple notches and bend the fins to fit over the NB. Haven't done it myself, but someone was nice enough to forward their photos to me. To wit:

Photo 1
Photo 2

thats probably going to cause it to sit poorly on the cpu ihs after time. I would pop off that abit NB sink, drill two holes in the other corners of it, and turn it 90deg, remount it, and then mount the freezer 7 pro properly.

 

[imported_Husky55]

Originally posted by: bigblockchevy
bois-15

spoke too soon--bios 15 is just 14--re labeled 15. when you turn off standby power to the system. the computer on re-start "looses" all your over clock settings. good bios otherwise--just like 14 was.

what i can't understand is that my biostar pt35d2A7 never does this--nor does my DFi blood iron p35. somebody over at abit needs to go to work on this bios. i think i am going to flash back to 12!

Bios 14 does not lose all OC settings on restart or on cold boot on my system.

 

[brencat]

hokiealumnus recently tested the new Bios 15 on the Abit forums and it turns out that it is a tad slower than 14 on SP1M/32M and a few other tests.

After seeing his results, I personally will be staying with 14 Beta 05 -- the best alternative to Bios 12, IMHO.

 

[bigblockchevy]

14 has been loosing the settings on mine--and i tried all of the 14s---

 

[hokiealumnus]

Originally posted by: Husky55

Originally posted by: bigblockchevy
bois-15

spoke too soon--bios 15 is just 14--re labeled 15. when you turn off standby power to the system. the computer on re-start "looses" all your over clock settings. good bios otherwise--just like 14 was.

what i can't understand is that my biostar pt35d2A7 never does this--nor does my DFi blood iron p35. somebody over at abit needs to go to work on this bios. i think i am going to flash back to 12!

Bios 14 does not lose all OC settings on restart or on cold boot on my system.

It doesn't loose ALL of them. It just resets your FSB to 200 (and maintains all other settings...Vcore, CPU : DRAM ratio, etc). This only occurs if you remove standby power from the MB after shutting it down. Shutting down again, leaving power on and then turning the system back on will restore your settings.

 

[hokiealumnus]

Here are the test results from the abit forums on the new BIOS (and all previous that I've tested):

Hi folks! So I have now played with v.15. Well, no chit chat, straight to the nitty-gritty:

The overclock used for all testing is as follows:

10x 300FSB (3.0GHz) @ 1.365Vcore
1:1.5 CPU : DRAM ratio (450MHz, or DDR2-900) with 5-5-4-15-2T timings @ 2.1Vdimm

I ran five SuperPi 1M tests and a single test each of SuperPi 32M and WinRar's benchmark (time to crunch 100M plus speed). Single tests were simply due to time constraints. Apologies for the formatting; the forum didn't like spaces.

SuperPi 1M test results:
BIOS-------------1.-------2.--------3.---------4.--------5.--------Avg.
v.12----------19.125--19.093---19.078---19.078---19.078---19.088
v.13beta01--19.140--19.079---19.079---19.094---19.094---19.089
v.14beta04--19.172--19.141---19.140---19.157---19.140---19.146
v.14beta05--19.078--19.094---19.156---19.078---19.094---19.089
v.14final-----19.094--19.110---19.125---19.094---19.109---19.104
v.15----------19.188--19.110---19.156---19.109---19.125---19.130
*Averages were obtained by throwing out the highest & lowest time, then averaging the remaining three times.

SuperPi 32M test results:
v.12-----------17min, 26.344sec
v.13beta -----17min, 26.594sec
V.14beta04 --17min, 21.391sec
v.14beta05 --17min, 29.859sec
v.14final------17min, 26.875sec
v.15-----------17min, 32.922sec

WinRar benchmark:
--------Time to reach 100M------Speed
v.12-----------2:35--------------642KB/s
v.13beta------2:35--------------643KB/s
v.14beta04---2:36--------------641KB/s
v.14beta05---2.36--------------641KB/s
v.14final------2.35--------------642KB/s
v.15-----------2.36--------------638KB/s

So, at least from my testing, v.13beta is VERY close in speed to v.12 and v.14beta04 is slightly slower than the other two. v.14beta05 seems to be on par with v.12 & v.13beta, with v.14final coming in right in the middle. Unfortunately, bringing up the rear is v.15.

Additionally, the FSB reset issue when you remove power that presented itself with v.14 is still present in v.15. Shutting down & powering back on fixes it (restarting doesn't), but annoying nonetheless.

If I had time to run more 32M tests, the obvious anomalies may work themselves out, but I don't.

In any case, they're too close to see any real world difference, but in case anyone was curious, this is how each of them perform.

 

[joker380]

Ok guys i am about to start putting things together i need to know if i should flash the BIOS to 14 right away or let everything set up properly on the BIOS it came with and than on the next boot i should do that. Also this is a dumb questions can someone tell me what to do on the dos command prompt once i boot the pc From the FLOPPY that contains the BIOS 14

Thanks for all your help in advance

 

[WEW]

I have a question - this problem happens sometimes - when I boot - when going to Windows - it kind of freezes and the screen goes dim on the Windows XP Screen - I'm not sure -- so it boots - Windows XP Screen comes up - and then the light of the monitor or something - it just goes dim and freezes.

Anyone know why this might be happening?

Thanks

 

[kknd1967]

I got another one with part number W04 78 (or 75?), not T04
is this one free ot "cold-boot bug"??

Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal
More info on IP35-E that will not POST below 60F.

This is probably the defective transistor. A bad chip has t04 72 for the part number. I see t04 71 on all five of my good IP35-E boards (no cold boot issue). Check your problem board to see if your transistor has t04 72.


http://forum.abit-usa.com/atta...tid=20696&d=1197740738

http://forum.abit-usa.com/show....php?p=901555&posted=1

 

[brencat]

Originally posted by: joker380
Ok guys i am about to start putting things together i need to know if i should flash the BIOS to 14 right away or let everything set up properly on the BIOS it came with and than on the next boot i should do that. Also this is a dumb questions can someone tell me what to do on the dos command prompt once i boot the pc From the FLOPPY that contains the BIOS 14

Thanks for all your help in advance

Use Dr. Dos to make a bootable floppy. After that, you will only need to put 4 things on the disk:

ABITFAE
AWDFLASH
M630A_14.bin (or whatever bios file you are using)
RUNME

Now, you need to do a couple things first. If you are using a beta bios like I was, you need to change the bios file name from M630A_14.b05 to M630A_14.bin. Next, you need to right-click the RUNME file, choose "edit", and then make sure the bios indicated on the line "call abitfae.bat" matches the one you are going to use. Overwrite it if necessary. Third, right click and edit the ABITFAE file in the same way, and change the AWDFLASH.EXE line item located about halfway down the page to read:

AWDFLASH.EXE %1 /py /sn /wb /cd /cp /cc

You're good to go after that. Make sure your CPU is not overclocked while doing a bios flash. And make sure your RAM is stable and running 1:1. I recommend 5-5-5-15 timings and 2.0 vDIMM just to be sure.

Then insert floppy & restart. At the A: prompt, type:

RUNME.BAT

Then follow onscreen instructions from there. Basically, you'll have to hit the spacebar I think a few times when prompted. After it's done, you'll get a checksum error on first boot up. That's normal. Shut down and clear CMOS. Then restart, go into Bios and load optimized defaults and set vDIMM appropriately. Save & restart, and go back into Bios again and finish the rest of your setup as you want. Done.

 

[joker380]

thanks brencat i will follow your instructin and let u know how it goes