Abit IP35-E Review (500MHz FSB board)...$90 @ NewEgg + $6.61 ship

[SerpentRoyal]

Don't worry about Vdroop. Use C1E and EIST to dynamically lower Vcore and core speed under no/medium load. You'll need to run at 9x default multi. Also enable Miminal Power in Power Options (windows). If you require 1.42V to achieve stability under load, then dial in 1.48 in BIOS. System will run between 1.31 (no load) and 1.42 (full load).

 

[coreyb]

hey,

I just setup my new build including the abit ip35-e motherboard. Everything seems to be running fine, except for the fact I cannot get a display on my monitor! Any suggestions?

 

[SerpentRoyal]

List all your components. Did you disconnect power from the PSU and reset the CMOS? Did you connect the 24/20 and 8/4 pin plugs to the board?

 

[SerpentRoyal]

An official new 12 BIOS for IP35-E/IP35

-Added more RAM timing options (as low as 1, plus 1T/2T)
-Fixed CPU temp to reflect true core temperature
-Fixed Super Pi speed issue of previous Beta BIOS

It appears that the double post patch and the FP Audio selector menu were omitted from the Beta BIOS. No double post during restart. The system will double post after the PC is shut down.

http://file.abit.com.tw/pub/download/bios/ip35/

 

[coreyb]

yes, I tried resetting the cmos several times and all my plugs are connected as well

cpu = Q6600 G0
heatsink = thermalright ultra 120 extreme
power supply = corsair 620 watt
ram = Crucial Ballistix PC2-6400 2GB 2X1GB DDR2-800 CL4-4-4-12 x 2
hd = Seagate Barracuda 7200.10 500GB SATA2 3GB/S 7200RPM 16MB Cache NCQ Hard Drive
gpu = evga geforce 8800 gtx
dvd = Samsung SH-S203B

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Take the board outside of the case and put it on the shipping box. Strip it bare, including RAM and CPU. Install only CPU, mouse, keyboard, GPU, and ONE STICK OF RAM. Disconnect power from PSU and clear CMOS. If you cannot access BIOS (no screen), then try the other stick of RAM.

 

[coreyb]

Ok, I tried that and still nothing happens.

 

[tsowen]

If no display means your board doesn't post, I had the exactly same problem a couple days ago. The problem is memory. The default setting for memory is 1.8v. Certain memory requires more than 1.8v to boot (looks like yours does). Therefore the system never posts. The solution is to put some memory that doesn't require more than 1.8v. If it boots up, get into BIOS menu and change dram voltage. Then switch back to the original memory.

 

[aiya24]

also try using just one stick of memory

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Originally posted by: coreyb
Ok, I tried that and still nothing happens.

No boot with either stick? Try 1.8V DDR2 667 or 800 from Crucial or Kingston "N5" ValueRAM.

 

[brencat]

Lots of good stuff in here gang - great thread. I too have the IP35-E en route from MWAVE...for $79 AR factoring in shipping...that's a no-brainer. Just a few things left to buy now.

The IP35 Pro had been my shortlist also but I passed after thinking about it -- I don't use RAID and can't remember the last time I had any firewire devices to connect. Uguru would have been nice but paying more than double makes no sense.

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Guru has been very problematic with the Pro board. It interferes with fan speed control and on occasion, corrupts the BIOS, requiring the user to reset CMOS. Always make changes from the BIOS for optimum stability.

Most issues are caused by the use of non-standard JEDEC RAMs. Buy high-quality 1.8V DDR2 667 or 800 from Crucial or Kingston. Mixing 6400 and 8000 RAMs is not recommended. RAM speed will probably be negatively impacted due to timing issue. I prefer to use all 1.8V DDR2 667 or 800 RAMs. There is very little gain in pushing RAM speed above 450MHz.

Always install bare MB on shipping box. Add only CPU, a pair of RAM, mouse, and keyboard. Turn-off power to PSU and reset CMOS. Boot into BIOS and change USB mouse and keyboard support from OS to BIOS. Hit F10 to save BIOS. You do not need to manually adjust Vdimm and timing if you use JEDEC 1.8V DDR2 667 or 800 RAMs.

Next step is to add optical drive and a blank HDD. Zero format an old HDD if it contains data. Boot back into BIOS and set the optical drive (full name) as 1st boot device, and HDD as 2nd boot. Save BIOS and reboot with CD in optical drive. There is NO NEED to F6 during installation. Windows will auto load drivers for PATA and SATA HDDs.

 

[ziddey]

Does 1t not work for anyone else with the new 13 beta?

I haven't been doing spi on this board. Anyone test if 13 is slower than 11, or if it's resolved?

what are you guys able to drop pf to? I seem to be stuck at 7 with cas4 1:1. any lower it locks.

also, anyone happen to remember offhand which reading is wrong in memset33? is it precharge to precharge? looks absolutely low to me. should be 4, but I'm seeing 2.

otherwise, it seems to set subtimings oddly when in auto. I'm not too familiar with p35 as compared to p965, but on auto, I'm seeing 13-10-3-3. Historically, having trtp to 3 would be massively unstable for me, and I've always kept with 4. But it seems to be doing fine?

twtf and write to pre are offset by 7 in p35? i notice result in memset33 is 7 higher iirc, at least with 11. I remember reading it's because memset adds something else onto it. pf? trrd+trtp?

 

[SerpentRoyal]

13 is slower than 11. 1T works in 12 and 13 Beta BIOS. I'm running at 5-4-4-9-2T-4-5-4-4. I don't bother with Memset...very insignificant gain.

12 BIOS appears to be the best. Just no patch with the double post.

 

[brencat]

Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal
Most issues are caused by the use of non-standard JEDEC RAMs. Buy high-quality 1.8V DDR2 667 or 800 from Crucial or Kingston. Mixing 6400 and 8000 RAMs is not recommended. RAM speed will probably be negatively impacted due to timing issue.

Your statement about mixing/matching brands and timings is generally true for the broader audience here. In my case however, the PC2-8000/PC2-8500 is the exact same RAM set looser @ 5-5-5-15 for the higher speed as the PC2-6400 Ballistix set tighter @ 4-4-4-12 for the lower speed. All are D9GMH chips. IIRC, anything over PC2-6400 is just overclocked PC2-6400...at least in the Ballistix family.

I'm well aware of the potential timing conflict however and plan to boot with 1 stick of the 512 PC2-6400 Ballistix first, then set vDIMM to 2.0v w/ 5-5-5-15 initially before I install the other 3 sticks. Once I've got the OC set, I'll go back and play with the timings. This RAM will do 550+ FSB @ 4-4-4-12, 2.2v/2.3v easy.

 

[SerpentRoyal]

You're not going to be able to run four sticks at any voltage with 550MHz/4-4-4-12. I've spend many hours testing Crucial Bs. It's possible to do 500MHz with 4-4-4-12. 550MHz @ 4-4-4-12 is possible with a good pair. Really no need to push RAM above 450-480MHz. The tiny speed boost doesn't warrant the extra stress on RAM, CPU, and MB.

 

[brencat]

Point taken about what they can do vs what I will actually do with them. You're correct in that I'm targeting the 400 - 450 FSB range @ 4-4-4-12 if I go with the E6420 as planned.

 

[batmanwcm]

Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal
Don't worry about Vdroop. Use C1E and EIST to dynamically lower Vcore and core speed under no/medium load. You'll need to run at 9x default multi. Also enable Miminal Power in Power Options (windows). If you require 1.42V to achieve stability under load, then dial in 1.48 in BIOS. System will run between 1.31 (no load) and 1.42 (full load).

Thanks SerpentRoyal.

Got my e6600 to 3.6GHz prime95 stable. I followed your instructions and enabled C1E and EIST so it would run on lower voltage when idle.

 

[Skullonius Grimbacher]

wow great info in this thread....

anyways i have the ip35-e and am putting a true120 on it and have a question to any of you with this mobo and hs config.

i have an 8800 ultra which is a heat producing monster even at stock (58-63 idle depending on ambient) I was looking at getting an HR-03+ but i would need to install it in the heatsink on back config in order to use my audio card.

ive read that some P35 mobos have issues with the hr-03 in this config hitting the northbridge cooler or DDR2. does anyone have the ip35-e true120 and hr03? or those with just true120 and ip35e how much room is there between your vid card and the bottom of the hs?

thanks in advance...

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Originally posted by: batmanwcm

Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal
Don't worry about Vdroop. Use C1E and EIST to dynamically lower Vcore and core speed under no/medium load. You'll need to run at 9x default multi. Also enable Miminal Power in Power Options (windows). If you require 1.42V to achieve stability under load, then dial in 1.48 in BIOS. System will run between 1.31 (no load) and 1.42 (full load).

Thanks SerpentRoyal.

Got my e6600 to 3.6GHz prime95 stable. I followed your instructions and enabled C1E and EIST so it would run on lower voltage when idle.

Abit IP35-E will automatically drop core voltage and core speed when CPU is idling, regardless of Vcore setting in BIOS. You must run at default multiplier, enable C1E and EIST in BIOS, and set power scheme to minimal mode.

Most P35 boards from Asus and Gigabyte will lock-in Vcore if you have a small bump in core voltage.

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Originally posted by: Skullonius Grimbacher
wow great info in this thread....

anyways i have the ip35-e and am putting a true120 on it and have a question to any of you with this mobo and hs config.

i have an 8800 ultra which is a heat producing monster even at stock (58-63 idle depending on ambient) I was looking at getting an HR-03+ but i would need to install it in the heatsink on back config in order to use my audio card.

ive read that some P35 mobos have issues with the hr-03 in this config hitting the northbridge cooler or DDR2. does anyone have the ip35-e true120 and hr03? or those with just true120 and ip35e how much room is there between your vid card and the bottom of the hs?

thanks in advance...

The best way to extract heat from a hot GPU is to have cold room temperature air blowing over the GPU's heat sink. The Big Typhoon is an excellent candidate because you can trap an 80mm or 120mm fan next to the 120mm CPU cooler fan. This extra fan will be able to direct room temperature air from a side duct over the PCI-E 16x slot. You can use the SYSTEM fan header to dynamically adjust this fan based on CPU temperature.

Naturally, you'll need goof front to back air flow to extract heat from the case.

 

[ziddey]

ip35-e is same as ip35 except with ich9 instead of 9r and no 1394 controller.

 

[Tullphan]

SerpentRoyal, thanks for your most excellent review.
If you had the choice, though, of the IP35-E for $69AR or the IP35 for $96AR, would you still go with the "E"...even assuming the $27 wasn't a factor?
What kind of setup are you running on yours? I'm specifically curious about your case & cooling.
I'm going to be getting a Q660 within the next 2-3 months...I assume the IP35 (either the "E" or the middle flavor) would have no trouble with it?
I'm sure i'll have more questions as time goes on.

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Definitely.

IP35-E does not share a common heat sink between NB and MOSFET. With IP35, the extra heat from the NB will elevate the temperature at the MOSFET, especially if you intend to overclock a quad.

If you must have RAID and are on a tight budget, then IP35 would fit this role. I prefer to purchase a quality eSATA or RAID card if needed. That way, I can always re-use them with another board. You won't find the vanilla IP35 at Fry's...only -E and Pro.

I'm running an Antec SLK3000B (with side duct) to fully exploit the downward-firing Big Typhoon. I replace the stock 120mm BT's fan with a medium speed 2-wire 120 x 38mm Panaflo. Fan speed is controlled by the CPU fan header (30% to 100% speed based on CPU temp). I strap a low speed 80mm Panaflo next to the 120mm Panaflo to cool RAMs, NB, and SB.

It is also possible to lock-wire another 80mm Panaflo just above the GPU to cool a high-end graphic card. These low speed 80mm Panaflos are whisper quiet at 0.5 meter.

Make sure you have good airflow across the case. There are two medium speed 120 x 38mm Panaflos at the front/back of my case. Both are wired in parallel to the onboard SYSTEM fan header. They will ramp up/down according to the CPU temperature. The PC is dead silent at low to medium speed.

Another forum member was able to run 1M SP with his Q6600/IP35-E @ 4.0GHz. The bottleneck will be your RAM and CPU.

DO NOT waste $ on those non-JEDEC compliance overclocking RAMs. $22/GB HP 1.8V DDR2 667 will be able to take your CPU up to 3.5GHz. If you need more core speed, then invest in high quality 1.8V DDR2 800 Kingston "N5" ValueRAM. They run $120 @ NewEgg (1GB x 2).

 

[imported_Husky55]

How many hardware versions does the IP35-E have? I just got one, version V1.00 shipped from the NJ Newegg.

I have to say this MB is running a lot cooler than the Asus P5B-E it replaces. Bios 12 appears to run fine, but it did reset all my settings to the default settings even CMOS was not cleared.

Thanks SerpentRoyal for this great thread.