Originally posted by: coreyb
SerpentRoyal,
I'm pretty confident my PSU is good. It is a corsair 620 hx and my problem doesn't include my mobo booting up and powering down endlessly. It boots up twice, then stays on for good. I've already tried booting with my current Crucial Ballistix 6400 ram sticks, in every possible configuration. So now I'm going to pick up a stick of the Kingston and try that out. Wish me luck!
Thanks again SerpentRoyal.
Originally posted by: bal3wolf
Has any one managed to run 500fsb on this board i tried droping my muti to 6 and 7x but i cant post even when i run way under 500. Like for every day i run my cpu @ 3700 463x8 ram runs at 926 100% orthos stable. But 6,7x muti wont post at fsb x8 and x9 will.
Originally posted by: bal3wolf
its a e6600 not q6600 been told not to go above 60c on a e6600.
Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal
All P35 boards will "droop" when you overclock a quad CPU. Expect to see a drop of 0.08 to 0.10V from the BIOS setting. To work around this problem, you must enable C1E and EIST in BIOS and run the CPU at default multiplier. Be sure power options in windows is set to minimal power mode. If you need 1.40V under full load to run @ 3.6GHz, then dial in 1.50V in BIOS. When idling or under medium load, the CPU will throttle to about 1.33V with 6x multiplier (same FSB speed). When priming, the CPU will see 1.40V with 9x multiplier. With this strategy, the CPU will run cool at low load, and be able to pass Orthos under full load.
The IP35-E's PWM temperature should remain below 65C, even with an oveclocked quad. Light air flow around the MOSFET region should keep peak temperature under 60C.
Originally posted by: SilentAssassin
Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal
All P35 boards will "droop" when you overclock a quad CPU. Expect to see a drop of 0.08 to 0.10V from the BIOS setting. To work around this problem, you must enable C1E and EIST in BIOS and run the CPU at default multiplier. Be sure power options in windows is set to minimal power mode. If you need 1.40V under full load to run @ 3.6GHz, then dial in 1.50V in BIOS. When idling or under medium load, the CPU will throttle to about 1.33V with 6x multiplier (same FSB speed). When priming, the CPU will see 1.40V with 9x multiplier. With this strategy, the CPU will run cool at low load, and be able to pass Orthos under full load.
The IP35-E's PWM temperature should remain below 65C, even with an oveclocked quad. Light air flow around the MOSFET region should keep peak temperature under 60C.
If I understand what you said, that should make the vdroop from the board not be a problem at all then. Can't believe I forgot about C1E and EIST. So lets say I test it at 400x9 with a 1:1 ratio for the ram and C1E+EIST disabled. With the bios vcore set to 1.50v, lets say actual idle is 1.48v and then load is 1.40v. If that runs stable then I could enable C1E+EIST and at idle I would be 1.35v(just an example) and then my vcore would actually increase to 1.40v still at load? If I got that right then I'd have less heat and pressure on the cpu/pwm at idle and still the same setting I want when under load gaming ect? How exactly does C1E+EIST determine when to up the CPU back to 9x and 1.40 vcore? Is it when there's any activity on the CPU? Or like once the cpu gets over 30% usage or something?
Originally posted by: coreyb
The crucial should work even though its rated at 2.2v? Man, I was so sure it was my ram that's the problem...now you're telling me it could be the GPU ($600) ... or the mobo...that sucks.
Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal
Originally posted by: coreyb
The crucial should work even though its rated at 2.2v? Man, I was so sure it was my ram that's the problem...now you're telling me it could be the GPU ($600) ... or the mobo...that sucks.
There is a very high probability that the Crucial B DDR2 800 can boot with 1.8V. The only way to know for sure is to retest with JEDEC 1.8V DDR2 667 or 800 RAM. If you've stripped the board bare (outside the case) with only mouse, keyboard, one stick of RAM, and CPU, then I would suspect the GPU, MB, or PSU. Be sure you've connected the 24/20 pin, 8/4 pin, and the molex pin to the MB (just above PCI-E x 16 slot). Also plug in the supplemental power plug from the GPU if equipped.
Next step is to try to boot with a known good low-powered GPU. If still not video, then you may have an issue with the PSU or MB.
Always disconnect power from PSU, hit power button to discharge board, and reset CMOS before each test.
You could also try a PCI video card.
Again, you must strip the board and retest outside the case to eliminate grounding issue.
Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal
It's cheap insurance if you have OCZ stuffs. These modules should be able to hit 400MHz at 2.0V/4-4-4-12-2T timing.