Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal
Nope. BIOS 12 should be in lock step with Coretemp. If Abit EQ, Speedfan, and Coretemp are within 2C, then there is insufficient heat transfer between CPU and CPU cooler. Could be a bum chip, poor contact between chip and heat spreader, and/or poor contact between heat spreader and CPU cooler.
Originally posted by: ArchAngel777
I backed up my org when I flashed to 12... So I basically tried to go back to 10. PC took a shit anyway, so it farked me over.
Something is clearly wrong with my setup... The temperature is one thing, but even so it was giving me memory dumps. I even upped MCH, VDIMM and crap... I had a bad feeling before I flash it, and I crossed my fingers and when I seen it take a shit I sat in horrer...
But, you are right... I should be able to load a DOS boot disk up, copy AWDFASLH and the BIOS file and *hopefully* reflash it. But to be honest... I am so fed up with this build... Uhg...
I think I might just walk away from it for a day. Still can't understand why my system was unable at stock speeds... But, without a working mobo, I am screwed, I feel tired and angry and like, I am just going to bed.
Originally posted by: SantaAna
Thanks Serpent,
getting my ducks lined up.
are any of these shareware: 4. Install OS. No need to hit F6 to load special drivers. Upon completion, load Intel chipset, sound, and LAN drivers from CD. Make an image file of this partition if you have DriveImage, Ghost, BING, or TI for safe-keeping.
???
Originally posted by: ArchAngel777
I backed up my org when I flashed to 12... So I basically tried to go back to 10. PC took a shit anyway, so it farked me over.
Something is clearly wrong with my setup... The temperature is one thing, but even so it was giving me memory dumps. I even upped MCH, VDIMM and crap... I had a bad feeling before I flash it, and I crossed my fingers and when I seen it take a shit I sat in horrer...
But, you are right... I should be able to load a DOS boot disk up, copy AWDFASLH and the BIOS file and *hopefully* reflash it. But to be honest... I am so fed up with this build... Uhg...
I think I might just walk away from it for a day. Still can't understand why my system was unable at stock speeds... But, without a working mobo, I am screwed, I feel tired and angry and like, I am just going to bed.
Originally posted by: ArchAngel777
Today I joined the 'fuck me' and 'i'm fucked' club... I cannot not even begin to voice my frustration. I could not get my system stable, reverted back to stock speeds, still would do stupid shit and error out and then I decided to flash back the origonal BIOS that I saved... No, turns out the machine took a shit on me and I lost my BIOS.
Fuck!
I have flashed BIOS hundreds of time and now I got fucked by it.
This new rebuild of my is a nightmare, I wish I never would have purchased any of it. :-(
Anyone had any tips? Boot up and says bad BIOS check sum insert disk in drive ' system halted'.
Originally posted by: rbk123
Unplug the battery and reset the CMOS jumper for a couple of hours - then try again.
If that doesn't work, flash the 12 BIOS.
Originally posted by: Mucker
Originally posted by: ArchAngel777
I backed up my org when I flashed to 12... So I basically tried to go back to 10. PC took a shit anyway, so it farked me over.
Something is clearly wrong with my setup... The temperature is one thing, but even so it was giving me memory dumps. I even upped MCH, VDIMM and crap... I had a bad feeling before I flash it, and I crossed my fingers and when I seen it take a shit I sat in horrer...
But, you are right... I should be able to load a DOS boot disk up, copy AWDFASLH and the BIOS file and *hopefully* reflash it. But to be honest... I am so fed up with this build... Uhg...
I think I might just walk away from it for a day. Still can't understand why my system was unable at stock speeds... But, without a working mobo, I am screwed, I feel tired and angry and like, I am just going to bed.
Don't be discouraged. Make a boot disk with AWDFLASH and bios M630A_13.B01 (very stable bios), 11 and 12 suck
rename the file to M630A_13.BIN
flash it:
awdflash M630A_13.BIN /py /sn /cd /cp /cc /cks /R
the switches will clear the boot block. bios date will show 8-15
Your core setup is similar to mine:
Abit IP35 v13 bios
Q6600 G0 727A (378 x 9 = 3400 MHz) 1.440v bios locked
TR-Ultra-120 with Panaflo HX/AS5 ~60C (OCCT) in 80F ambient
Crucial Ballistix (4 x 1 GB) 1:1.20 DDR2 908 MHz 5-5-5-15 2.00v
Seagate 7200.10 250 GB x 2 Raid 0 WinXP
Seagate 7200.10 320 GB data
eVGA 8800 GTS 640 SC (stock)
X-Fi ExtremeGamer/Klipsch 2.1 Promedia
Benq 1655
Samsung 203B
Samsung 225BW 22"
Logitech MX518/G15
Antec Quattro 850
Antec 900
bump up all voltages 1 notch above default except for cpu and memory voltage, which obviously will need determined.
I disabled C1E and EIST (personal preference)
set your Ballistix manually to 5-5-5-15-30 (all else in auto)
2.00 to 2.20 volts
1:1.20 divider
check out my 4 modules SPD programming: http://members.cox.net/mucker/Ballistix.jpg
Big thing for my Q6600 is that it needs voltage, my profile:
3.2 GHz...1.360v
3.4 GHz...1.440v
3.5 GHz...1.500v
Watch your PWM temp, with Quad OCing you'll likely need some air movement across the mofset sink when over 3.2 GHz.
Originally posted by: hokiealumnus
Well, I'm back. To start, thanks to all who have helped in the past and to anyone willing to read through this and attempt to answer my questions. Still relatively new to this and the questions just keep coming. Warning: this is LONG. My apologies, but as you've undoubtedly come to know, rather than have to go back & forth, I try to be as thorough as possible to save all of us some time in the end. (Posted this @ abit in OC forum also.)
Recently, I've abandoned the CPU core speed (reached the maximum I can feasably get with the stock cooler at 3.0Ghz on an E4400) in favor of seeing what I can get out of the FSB. This has been an interesting ride, with quite a few more CMOS clears than were ever required when just going for core speed!
In order to do this, obviously, I've needed to drop my multi and let the FSB "fly" as it were. It has prooved moderately frustrating.
To begin with, I have obtained two perfectly stable overclocks. One (HERE) at 333MHz FSB w/ 8x Multi, & the other (HERE) at 333Mhz FSB w/ 9x Multi; both with 1:1.25 mem ratio in order to keep 4-4-4-15-2T timings on my RAM without having to raise Vdimm. These were great, to start with. Both obtained with 1.345Vcore (just one step [.02V] up, which is preferrable, since I don't have C1E & EIST to help with idle temps after dropping the multi).
They were perfectly stable through orthos testing (in screens showing the speeds) as well as all Sandra tests, with screens as follows (compared to prior saved overclock results):
Memory Bandwidth Test: @ 8x | @ 9x
Memory Latency Test: @ 8x | @ 9x
Cache and Memory Test: @ 8x | @ 9x
Now, the problems (you just knew it was coming, didn't you?).
Each time I restarted the PC (normally, from Windows, using XP, SP2), it decided not to start up again. Just went down, did the usual double-post and never actually posts again. Just sits there w/ the HDD light on without beeping. This is exactly the same behavior as when I raise the FSB too high (we'll get to that in a bit, addressing what I've already gotten happily stable so far). So, I reset CMOS and decide to see what happened. Changed all settings back the way they were and, just to be sure, raise MCH by one notch, thinking the NB is needing a little boost to keep up. Boot up into Windows as normal, run Orthos to be sure and restart to see if it's successful. Nope, same problem. Tried boosing NB & SB, just in case. Same result, so put them both back to default. Tried boosting Vdimm, same result (also put back). Then, I try boosting Vcore, putting it up to 1.365 (two 0.02V steps). What do you know? ...it works, restarts and acts normal!
So, my main problem is my cooler. I know it needs replacing, just not feasable currently, so I'm trying to squeeze everything I can while still being safe.
Running Orthos large with the 333/9x combination yields 75C temps, too high for me to deal with; I like pushing the envelope, not being one degree from torching the envelope! So, at 333/8x/1.365Vcore, it peaks at 72C with Orthos large. It's warm, but doable since it won't touch that with standard (gaming) loads. The main problem with that is the idle temps; since C1E & EIST have to be disabled are about 3-5 degrees higher than they are using 300FSB/10x/1.345Vcore (because it idles @ 1.8GHz w/ lower Vcore).
Now, the questions:
1. Is it really impossible to use C1E & EIST with a lowered multi, ever? Why? Doesn't this seem pretty illogical?
2. Will idling 3-5ish degrees higher (44-47 as opposed to 40-43, depending on room temps) hurt the processor more than it otherwise would in the long run?
3. Similarly, will idling at 2.66GHz instead of 1.8GHz (and non-dropped Vcore) hurt the processor more than it otherwise would in the long run?
4. Why on earth would the desired FSB & Multi at only 1.345Vcore actually start up the first time after setting the BIOS and sucessfully bench all Sandra tests (ran the processor ones too) and run all Orthos tests (not just the blended test, but all of them) and then fail on a restart (repeatedly)? THAT, my friends, is illogical.
-----
Allright, I believe that ends my questions on those particular settings. My last few have to do with pushing the FSB a little more. I seem to have hit a hard brick wall at 333MHz FSB with anything (even just 340) involving a reasonable Vcore. After incrementally trying every combination of 1-step-increases on Vdimm/NB/SB and Vcore, it's all Vcore. 1.425 is the next stable Vcore at 350Mhz. Without it, the system just does the normal double-boot thing and just stops without posting. Seems like a big jump from 1.365 to 1.425 (required to be able to restart, it'll do the start-up-and-be-stable-once-but-not-restart thing at 1.405) just to go from 333 to 350. Wouldn't post at 366 with 1.425Vcore and I'm already uncomfortable, not trying to hurt my system here...remember, the key word is SAFE.
HERE is the result at 350FSB/8x/1:1.2/4-4-4-15-2T. Temps got to 75C running Orthos large, so I think I'm done here. Can't run 75C and feel safe. I tried 366MHz FSB at 1.425 and it wouldn't post.
So, questions:
5. It's not worth it, right? 1.425 just feels way too high without upgrading the CPU cooler.
6. Is it normal for such slight increases above 333MHz to require such a large jump in Vcore?
7. Well, more of a comment really. After hearing bad things about OCZ (after purchasing of course), I'm happy to see it's not the thing holding me back!
-----
Well, that's it. I thank anyone and everyone who even made it this far. Sorry for being verbose! Any and all help will be greatly appreciated!
Originally posted by: cleverest
Help! I got my abit ip35 pro finally, got it all hooked up...booted, noted it was version 6, booted from floppy, flashed the bios (with version 11), powered off (switch on psu), cleared cmos, restarted....cpu said 8ghz during post, well...I hit DELETE and fixed everything in BIOS (and when that failed I tried loading safe defaults as well just so you know), well anyways when I restart, no matter what settings I choose in the bios, none of my sata ports 1-6 see any drives....I have two serial ata drives that were being seen with the original bios and a couple optical drives (pata but using SATA adapters to plug into the sata ports on board)...now optical and hard drives are invisible...it won't boot to either! my bios has the SATA and the STORAGE controller set to IDE....not ahci or raid....
UPDATE: Everytime I clear my cmos and restart, it gives me an insane cpu settings, I have a core 2 duo e6750, so I change it back to 333mhz, and memory is 1:1 (ddr2-666 is what it shows)....and I also see all my drives in the BIOS....I only disable the LOGO and onboard sound, then restart the computer SAVING my changes...next boot...no drives are detected...
I'm in a loop and I'm going insane...
What can I do? Thanks in advance.
- Brett