It's a dinosaur drive by today's standard. It's best to replace HDD every 3 to 4 years if you want to minimized sudden death syndrome. That said, the drive should work if your zero format the data before use.
Originally posted by: CRXican
Figured I'd chime in as I built a system with this motherboard last weekend.
It's up and running great along with a Corsair HX620. Seems those compatibility issues were quite limited as Corsair suggested.
I do have the super duper double boot though
Originally posted by: TungFree
I agree it is a dinasoure and I hope the brand new
500 gig 1 x (10005376) SAMSUNG HD501LJ 500GB SATA 7200 RPM 16MB Hard Drive Bulk will work.
Samsung Hard drive is coming with the Gigabyte GZ-FA1CA-ASB 3D Aurora 570 Aluminum Full Tower Case w/Multi-functional Window (Black) Retail and
the Antec EA500 EarthWatts series 500W Power Supply you recommended.
I borrowed a floppy drive and 3 used floppies I will later test them.
I only need the dinasoure Maxtor as a temporary measure to insure the mother board needs not be RMAed.
But I still am not sure what software to use for zero filling the drive. I will need to reread some tutorials, it all slipped my older mind.
Any detailed help link or steps will be wonderful.
Originally posted by: TungFree
I agree it is a dinasoure and I hope the brand new
500 gig 1 x (10005376) SAMSUNG HD501LJ 500GB SATA 7200 RPM 16MB Hard Drive Bulk will work.
Samsung Hard drive is coming with the Gigabyte GZ-FA1CA-ASB 3D Aurora 570 Aluminum Full Tower Case w/Multi-functional Window (Black) Retail and
the Antec EA500 EarthWatts series 500W Power Supply you recommended.
I borrowed a floppy drive and 3 used floppies I will later test them.
I only need the dinasoure Maxtor as a temporary measure to insure the mother board needs not be RMAed.
But I still am not sure what software to use for zero filling the drive. I will need to reread some tutorials, it all slipped my older mind.
Any detailed help link or steps will be wonderful.
You can go to the Maxtor website to download a zero fill utility.
Originally posted by: TungFree
Originally posted by: TungFree
I agree it is a dinasoure and I hope the brand new
500 gig 1 x (10005376) SAMSUNG HD501LJ 500GB SATA 7200 RPM 16MB Hard Drive Bulk will work.
Samsung Hard drive is coming with the Gigabyte GZ-FA1CA-ASB 3D Aurora 570 Aluminum Full Tower Case w/Multi-functional Window (Black) Retail and
the Antec EA500 EarthWatts series 500W Power Supply you recommended.
I borrowed a floppy drive and 3 used floppies I will later test them.
I only need the dinasoure Maxtor as a temporary measure to insure the mother board needs not be RMAed.
But I still am not sure what software to use for zero filling the drive. I will need to reread some tutorials, it all slipped my older mind.
Any detailed help link or steps will be wonderful.
You can go to the Maxtor website to download a zero fill utility.
I am kicking myself in the head I was so frustrated till I carefully looked in the manual on a motherboard diagram. The port I was able to hook up an older IDE belt to was the floppy drive port
Usually on any other motherboard you plug the IDE belt sraight in. Well this motherboard has it sideways and did not look like an IDE port to me untill I read it.
I went to maxtor and could not find a utility named zero fill, spent 15 minutes looking, possibly missed it ot it is absent.
I searched google for zero fill programs and a low level free format was posted as a free download instead
Well I did low level format a 6 gig hard drive for temporary instalation of the OS.
It is working I am writing this post from this threads Rig.
The Raptor still not showing up, but another 500 gig Sata is coming Monday. I will have enough time to send in for the $20 rebate to Abit.
The 160 gig Maxtor is taking forever to low format.
I am both kicking myself in the head as well as blaming Abit for the new creative obscurity they placed the IDE port in, sideways not from the top down as we all are used to for years. Main thing is all but Raptor is well and now I can flash #14 from Windows, and see if it will be recognized.
Actually I have to wait till te 160 gig is done it locks up the computer useless as it formats.
Originally posted by: sharad
After following this thread and Serpent's posts for weeks and I just took the leap from an old Athlon 2800+, Nvidia 6600GT, 1GB RAM (ancient I know) and bought IP35 last week. It's the Dark Raider edition, not E or Pro - I need the Firewire port. Also here in NZ the IP35-E is only $25NZD cheaper than IP35. Both have 3 years warranty though.
Intel Q6600 (G0 stepping)
Abit IP35
Silverstone ST50EF 500W
Corsair TWIN2X2048-6400C4 1GBx4
Foxconn 8600GTS 256MB (occasional gaming)
My thoughts so far on the whole build...
- The double boot really scares you first time you boot your system after putting together all components. You get used to it after that. Have to get the new BIOS at some point.
- I didn't really have any problems booting with the Corsair memory as it defaults to the JEDEC 1.8w specs.
- Had no problems at all installing XP with SP2 on a WD 250G SATA1 drive. The install seemed a little slower than usual though.
- No overclocking. Not for a few weeks at least.
- Not impressed with the stock Intel cooler. It's a pain to secure and actually bends the motherboard a little. 47c idle and 70+c load at around 21c room temp. Have to get TR120 Extreme or TR Ultima90 at some point.
- Not impressed with Realtek on-board sound or Abit's implementation of it. There is just too much static interference when using headphones. 4 year old Audigy1 is better, even old Abit NF7-S with SoundStorm was much better.
- Sometimes the Del key to enter BIOS just doesn't register and Windows continues to load. I have to keep pressing the Del key for the BIOS to load. My keyboard is connected from a powered USB hub that could be the problem.
Anyway overall I am very happy with the board itself. It has been rock solid in hours of Prime95 tests.
To give you some idea of my upgrade - I have gone from 30 frames at low quality 1024x768 res in Doom3 to 100+ frames at 1280x1024 res at Ultra quality on a 19" LCD. I would just like to thank you all, especially SerpentRoyal.
SerpentRoyal: See 1st post or read this thread. Should be a guide for flashing in windows a few pages back.
hokiealumnus: It's highly recommended you flash BIOS from a DOS environment. Windows is possible but you're taking an unnecessary risk.
You'll need to create a boot floppy to use to flash it. The one I used was easily created with this utility (drdflash downloaddrdflash, it creates a boot floppy without drivers taking up all the space).
After using that to create your boot floppy, download the BIOS of your choice (Official releases here. Beta release here.
If using version 12, unzip, copy the files to your floppy & you're done. Simply reboot with the floppy as your first boot device & once in DOS, type "runme" and it'll automagically flash for you. DO NOT POWER DOWN OR HIT ANY KEYSTROKES until it has completed.
If using v13beta, the process is slightly different. See the first post in this thread (9/4/07 update) for Serpents instructions on how to do that.
Simply reboot with the floppy as your first boot device & once in DOS, type "runme" and it'll automagically flash for you. DO NOT POWER DOWN OR HIT ANY KEYSTROKES until it has completed.
Originally posted by: richwenzel
Is this board done? Newegg/clubit don't even have a link to it anymore. Can't be found. Using the links on the first page brings you to nothing to "deactivated item" on newegg.
Originally posted by: richwenzel
Is this board done? Newegg/clubit don't even have a link to it anymore. Can't be found. Using the links on the first page brings you to nothing to "deactivated item" on newegg.