Abit IP35-E Review (500MHz FSB board)...$90 @ NewEgg + $6.61 ship

[Brutus04]

I understand that the IP35-E is being replaced with the IP35-V

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Have you contacted Abit to confirm this?

 

[sharad]

Looks like I got my board just in time. What's the difference between V and E?

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Originally posted by: sharad
Looks like I got my board just in time. What's the difference between V and E?

See 1st post on page 87.

 

[sharad]

Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal

Originally posted by: sharad
Looks like I got my board just in time. What's the difference between V and E?

See 1st post on page 87.

Ah, sorry. Just needed to look a couple of post up. So Abit realized that E is affecting the sales of Dark Raider and Pro boards.

 

[bal3wolf]

Ya ip35-e is a killer board looks like they don't like it rivaling their higher priced boards so much with the nice overclocks it gets. Thiers a few places still has it but prices are high now.

http://www.shopping.com/xGS-abit_ip35-e

 

[GundamF91]

Does overclocking a motherboard, such as IP35-E, north of 400 or 450mhz hurt a board's lifespan and stability? I assume that if IP35-E was a high quality board able to hit 500, then running it around 450mhz shouldn't hurt it much?

 

[BuckNaked]

Anyone have any issues with the board dying? It was running fine, and then a week or so ago, I noticed it was taking longer and longer for it to post. Then I had to power it on, power it off, and power it back on for it to post... the last couple of startups took like 15 minutes for it to post, now it won't post at all. This is not related to the dual boot issue. I was running the v 12 BIOS, updated to the 14 a couple of days ago to see if the BIOS was any kind of issue, and no change...

I am going to pull it out of the case tomorrow, and remove all drives, sound card and use only 1 stick of RAM to see if it will post. If not, I will try another PSU, but this has me scratching my head...

System details:

IP35 E
E6750 No O/C
4GB Crucial Ballistix 800 RAM (4x1) tried going back to the original 2GB no change
Audigy 2
WD 74 GB Raptor
Seagate 400 GB drive
Seasonic 600 Watt PSU
EVGA 7900 GT OC
NEC DVD Burner
Plextor DC Burner
XP Pro

 

[Heidfirst]

Originally posted by: sharad So Abit realized that E is affecting the sales of Dark Raider and Pro boards.

or perhaps it's just sold so well that it's temporarily gone out of stock in the US whilst they wait for a new shipment ?
certainly still available in Europe.

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Originally posted by: GundamF91
Does overclocking a motherboard, such as IP35-E, north of 400 or 450mhz hurt a board's lifespan and stability? I assume that if IP35-E was a high quality board able to hit 500, then running it around 450mhz shouldn't hurt it much?

I'm sure it will reduce the life of the board but you're safe for at least 3 yr. The key is to use a quality down draft CPU and fan to lower NB, SB, and PWM temps.

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Originally posted by: BuckNaked
Anyone have any issues with the board dying? It was running fine, and then a week or so ago, I noticed it was taking longer and longer for it to post. Then I had to power it on, power it off, and power it back on for it to post... the last couple of startups took like 15 minutes for it to post, now it won't post at all. This is not related to the dual boot issue. I was running the v 12 BIOS, updated to the 14 a couple of days ago to see if the BIOS was any kind of issue, and no change...

I am going to pull it out of the case tomorrow, and remove all drives, sound card and use only 1 stick of RAM to see if it will post. If not, I will try another PSU, but this has me scratching my head...

System details:

IP35 E
E6750 No O/C
4GB Crucial Ballistix 800 RAM (4x1) tried going back to the original 2GB no change
Audigy 2
WD 74 GB Raptor
Seagate 400 GB drive
Seasonic 600 Watt PSU
EVGA 7900 GT OC
NEC DVD Burner
Plextor DC Burner
XP Pro

Have you raised the Vdimm of your RAMs and tested with Memtest86? Do you have an as-loaded image file of the OS to restore to eliminate software issue?

Take the board outside the case and put it on the shipping box. Strip it bare. Now install CPU, GPU, mouse, keyboard, and one stick of RAM. Pull battery and clear CMOS for 1/2 hour. If you cannot POST, then try various RAM slots and also with the other stick of RAM. CPU rarely go bad. Try another GPU before replacing PSU.

 

[bal3wolf]

Originally posted by: Heidfirst

Originally posted by: sharad So Abit realized that E is affecting the sales of Dark Raider and Pro boards.

or perhaps it's just sold so well that it's temporarily gone out of stock in the US whilst they wait for a new shipment ?
certainly still available in Europe.

Could be but they usualy dont deativate a product when its sold out they list it as sold out.

 

[rvr2k3]

Hi Guys,

Great thread! I am a new member of the ABIT IP35-E club. I picked up the e2140 from Microcenter and am currently running it with Crucial Ballisitx DDR2 800 - 2GB, OCZ Powerstream 520W, eVGA 7600GT and 300GB WD SATA running Windows XP Pro (SP2). I am running the mobo outside of a case. I am currently using the Intel Heatsink from my e6600. It has a copper base, so I assume it is better than the stock e2140 version with the aluminum looking base.

I will be getting the CoolerMaster Gemini from Newegg this monday, so that will be used with two 120mm UltraKaze fans.

So I bumped the CPU voltage to 1.46 as per the first post in this thread, changed the memory voltage to 2.0 and running the Ballisitx @ 5-5-5-18 2T at 1:1. However, when I try and bump up the frequency, the video does not post when I reboot the machine. So around 360, I get this issue.

I was wondering what some 2140 users are using for their voltages and timings? Any help would be greatly appreciated. My goal is to keep the voltage down as much as possible with an OC of around 3.0.

Thanks.

I am Orthos Beta stable for 12 hours at 350x8.

 

[vailr]

The Abit IP35-E is still available at ewiz:
$105.00 + $13.80 shipping (to my zip code)
http://www.ewiz.com/detail.php...1b986a8bc0d54b992fc092
However, these other two P35 (non-Raid) boards look to be better choices, price wise:
GIGABYTE GA-P35-DS3L $89.99, free shipping
http://www.newegg.com/Product/...x?Item=N82E16813128059
BIOSTAR P35D2-A7 ($62.99 after $20.00 Mail-In Rebate) + $6.33 shipping
http://www.newegg.com/Product/...x?Item=N82E16813138098
Getting the Biostar rebate may be somewhat problematic, however.

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Flash to 12 BIOS. 11 BIOS should also work. Disconnect power from PSU. Hit power switch to discharge caps. Remove battery for 1/2 hour. Reset CMOS. Go into BIOS and change Vcore to 1.4, Vdimm to 2.1, timing to 5-5-5-15, 1:1 memory divider, and 355MHz FSB. Hit F10 to save BIOS. Boot into windows at 355MHz FSB and launch CPUz. FSB speed should be the same as RAM speed. Confirm timing of your RAM. Run Orthos Large mode for ten minutes (2 hour run is more than adequate for stability testing). Check CPU temp with Coretemp 0.95.4. Anything over 70C is bad. Boot with memtest86 and run test #5 for 50 loops to check RAMs. If okay, then raise FSB by 5MHz and retest.

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Originally posted by: vailr
The Abit IP35-E is still available at ewiz:
$105.00 + $13.80 shipping (to my zip code)
http://www.ewiz.com/detail.php...1b986a8bc0d54b992fc092
However, these other two P35 (non-Raid) boards look to be better choices, price wise:
GIGABYTE GA-P35-DS3L $89.99, free shipping
http://www.newegg.com/Product/...x?Item=N82E16813128059
BIOSTAR P35D2-A7 ($62.99 after $20.00 Mail-In Rebate) + $6.33 shipping
http://www.newegg.com/Product/...x?Item=N82E16813138098
Getting the Biostar rebate may be somewhat problematic, however.

$95 AR IP35 is much better than the DS3L. Add the free Abit WiFi card and you'll have a system that will rival a $130 board from Asus or Gigabyte.

-RAID
-six SATA ports
-1394a
-heat pipe

http://www.mwave.com/mwave/vie...a=BA23928&RSKU=BA23928

http://www.clubit.com/product_...l.cfm?itemno=CA5341001

 

[Skullonius Grimbacher]

using speedfan i notice a temp labeled ACPI that usually hovers around 41-46C (sys 32, cpu 33/60, pwm 36/65) but occassionally will jump up to 121 especially after a bit of prime testing and it doesnt go down unless i reboot. i felt all of my heatsinks and nothing felt anything even close to hot let alone 121
ive searched this forum and far and wide on google but couldnt find any info as to what this temp could be referring to
seems odd it just jumps right up to 121 without ramping up. in fact it doesnt seem to change any other time
is this even a real temp? anything i should worry about?
using q6600@3.4 1.42vcore, ip35-e, 2gb crucial pc6400

 

[Brutus04]

I am waiting for a reply back from Abit re: IP35V. I hope it's an OC'er.

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Originally posted by: Skullonius Grimbacher
using speedfan i notice a temp labeled ACPI that usually hovers around 41-46C (sys 32, cpu 33/60, pwm 36/65) but occassionally will jump up to 121 especially after a bit of prime testing and it doesnt go down unless i reboot. i felt all of my heatsinks and nothing felt anything even close to hot let alone 121
ive searched this forum and far and wide on google but couldnt find any info as to what this temp could be referring to
seems odd it just jumps right up to 121 without ramping up. in fact it doesnt seem to change any other time
is this even a real temp? anything i should worry about?
using q6600@3.4 1.42vcore, ip35-e, 2gb crucial pc6400

Use Speedfan 4.33. The CPU temp is correct. AUX is PWM. SYS is correct. Disregard other readings.

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Originally posted by: Brutus04
I am waiting for a reply back from Abit re: IP35V. I hope it's an OC'er.

You can see the differences by viewing the two pictures.

 

[Brutus04]

Can't judge a book by its cover...
Its a bit weird in that it is a P35 Chipset but uses the ICH7.

 

[TungFree]

ok the new hard drive worked but was not running the Raptor drive.
and from time to time the power went dead.

So I flashed it from #11 to #14 and this still did not show up the Raptor drive and while installing a windows update it crashed. So I tried flashing it to #12
right in the middle the power crashed.

I made a floppy the way I had posted and unzipped the #12 to a folder and copied it to the floppy. asks me 3 times to press a key if I agree then starts to flash, ask me to input a name of a file and there is no way to do that, then crashes it shows #12 bin file trying to flash as it crashes

I have not yet sent in for the $20 rebate and can try zipzoomfly or abit tomorrow by phone.
Any suggestions what to do next? or which of the 2 to contact?

 

[gorobei]

so the ip35e going away is pretty much your fault Serpent? Evangelizing a cheap board to the masses and generating too much demand/hype such that the manufacturer is losing sales on its higher end boards. I blame you.

just when I was thinking of jumping on the bandwagon. bah. Guess I'll have to go with the ip35 with the heatpipe on the northbridge.

(any other good OC boards you want to kill?)

 

[hokiealumnus]

Originally posted by: TungFree
ok the new hard drive worked but was not running the Raptor drive.
and from time to time the power went dead.

So I flashed it from #11 to #14 and this still did not show up the Raptor drive and while installing a windows update it crashed. So I tried flashing it to #12
right in the middle the power crashed.

I made a floppy the way I had posted and unzipped the #12 to a folder and copied it to the floppy. asks me 3 times to press a key if I agree then starts to flash, ask me to input a name of a file and there is no way to do that, then crashes it shows #12 bin file trying to flash as it crashes

I have not yet sent in for the $20 rebate and can try zipzoomfly or abit tomorrow by phone.
Any suggestions what to do next? or which of the 2 to contact?

Ouch. Never flash an unstable system. From your post, it seems you can get to a DOS prompt, is that correct? If so, download the official v.12 BIOS that comes with all the files.

Unzip all the files to your floppy. Edit abitfae.bat's command to include the /wb switch. Boot to your DOS prompt and simply type "runme" and hit enter. Hopefully it will flash for you. If not, it sounds likely you killed your chip.

You can get a new BIOS chip from abit. Thankfully, they include removable BIOS chips instead of the hard-wired ones on other manufacturer's boards. Once you get it, simply pop the old one out, noting its orientation and install the new one.

 

[ReikerStruvian]

I just bought this board a few days ago from Frys and I've been having trouble getting it to work. I'll post my specs.

IP35-E
Intel Dual-Core E6750
Antec Basiq 500watt (ATX12v v2.01)
Corsair 2GB DDR2
PNY GeForce 8600GT
Sound Blaster X-FI Xtreme Gamer
Seagate Barricuda 200GB 7200
Samsung CD-RW/DVD SM-308

At the moment, I am trying to set up the boot order in bios but my DVD or harddisk are not being detected in bios (they are both IDE). I have the optical drive set to master on the jumper with the master part of the IDE connector and the harddisk is set to cable select (only lets me choose master on/slave off, cable select, limit to 32GB).

I've tried disconnecting the optical IDE and setting the jumper to master on the harddisk and plugging in the master IDE connector to it, but it still doesn't show up in bios. And when I go to load windows, it says 'boot disk failure, please insert system disk'.

Out of ideas