Abit IP35-E Review (500MHz FSB board)...$90 @ NewEgg + $6.61 ship

[SerpentRoyal]

I'm not aware of IP35-E V2. I've seen IP35-E V1.0 Rev A and B. ZZfly may carry IP35-E for less than $100. I have a slightly used P35-E for sale (about 20 hours of test) for $75 if you're local to S Cal.

My 2nd choice is the Abit IP35. Unfortunately, the lowest price is $120. Unit was $95 last month at MWAVE.

3rd choise is the MSI P35 Neo2-FR. It's still pricey around $100 but the board should be able to hit 400MHz FSB with ease.

 

[bal3wolf]

Sucks the ip35-e is gone its one heck of a board and bios 14 has pretty much fixed all its problems. With my e6600@3700 and my 8800GT clocked at 710/1800/2000 i broke 13500 if i was on xp id probly be in the 15k mark.

 

[hrbngr]

yep, the IP35 regular has raid and 1394? does it still have all the nice caps, etc?

unfortunately I live in VA, so a bit far away from soCal. I am sure jealous of all the Fry's you have around, there's nothing like that hear.

i need that antec truewatts PS, but the best way to buy it is literally to buy a sonata iii, so at least u get a good case. lol

but to confirm if the multiplier is the same on the e2140 and e2160, then the 2140 makes better sense to buy, no?

otherwise i should jump to the e2180?

****

edit, on 2nd thought if u woudl even consider shipping, let me know. my zip is 20164.

can paypal, whatever.

 

[Regalk]

In Canada they are still available at www.directcanada.com

This is weird - When I login I see 39 pages of posts. When I logout i see 95??? Hrbngr was asking for a link and now I cannot see that post when I login - strange

His post was
"just to confirm here--the motherboard that we have been speaking about, the IP35-E is no longer available at all? OR If it is available, it is priced higher than before?

Could someone link to a reputable dealer selling the mobo right now? Also, am I looking to buy a particular version of this mobo? v2, etc?

Finally, if the pricepoint is much higher for the remaining IP35-Es that are available, is the PRO version of this mobo the better option to still get the quality components?
"

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Originally posted by: hrbngr
yep, the IP35 regular has raid and 1394? does it still have all the nice caps, etc?

unfortunately I live in VA, so a bit far away from soCal. I am sure jealous of all the Fry's you have around, there's nothing like that hear.

i need that antec truewatts PS, but the best way to buy it is literally to buy a sonata iii, so at least u get a good case. lol

but to confirm if the multiplier is the same on the e2140 and e2160, then the 2140 makes better sense to buy, no?

otherwise i should jump to the e2180?

****

edit, on 2nd thought if u woudl even consider shipping, let me know. my zip is 20164.

can paypal, whatever.

Earthwatts 500 is only $34 AR.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/...x?Item=N82E16817371007

E2140 is a very good deal @ 60 for a retail box (see hot deals forum...Micro Center).

I would prefer to sell the board here S Cal. I want hook up the unit and run it at 488MHz FSB to prove stability. Don't want to risk problem with shipping the board.

 

[brencat]

Originally posted by: hrbngr
but to confirm if the multiplier is the same on the e2140 and e2160, then the 2140 makes better sense to buy, no?

otherwise i should jump to the e2180?

E2140 = 8x multiplier
E2160 = 9x multiplier
E2180 = 10x multiplier

Best buy is the E2160 as you want to make sure you have a fighting chance at 3.3ghz, which would mean 365 - 370 FSB on the 9x multi cpu. Obviously, it's less of a problem with the 10x multi E2180. Many of of these E2xxx max out ~ 380 FSB, some more, some less so I would stay away from the E2140 if you've got the extra $$.

 

[TungFree]

I discovered after testing that my Raptor was DOA ( Dead on arrival) and Western Digital extended a free shipping return label and is shipping a new one to me.

on another front, while I wait for the Raptor to install a fresh install on it, and follow the suggestions suggested here.
My old setup seems to have issues with the
MSI RX2400PRO-TD256EH Radeon HD 2400 PRO 256MB GDDR2 PCI Express x16 Video Card.

There appear 2 messages both say the same thing:
saying I need to be the Administrator ( I am the administrator) to change the settings on the ATI Radion driver, when I am not trying to change any at all.
additionally, there is a complaint that I unplugged my microphone, then my other sound components and then that I plugged them in. while I am not touching them. I removed and reinserted both but the Sound software of the motherboard's sound software opens up as often as a 1/2 dozen times in an hour and I have to just close it repeatedly, sometimes one after other sometimes with a break.

I will try to be careful when I reinstall the OS but till then anyone have this happen with the sound, or if you have the same Video card these silly requesters?
anyway to fix it without reinstalling drivers?

I used the drivers that came on the CDs with the motherboard and with the video card. and I am on bios #12

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Zero fill the HDD and clean install windows. Make an as-loaded image file of the OS so you can quickly return the PC to factory condition. It's not an easy task to clean up driver/software conflicts.

 

[jonmcc33]

I just want to say that I'm glad that I hopped on this board when it was still available. It's been going strong for nearly 2 months now @ 400FSB. I'm going to wait to get ahold of a Penryn before I really try overclocking the FSB.

 

[TungFree]

Make an as-loaded image file of the OS so you can quickly return the PC to factory condition. It's not an easy task to clean up driver/software conflicts.

You know a whole lot more than I do.. I learned from you new terminologies but the above I need to confirm.
as loaded image= the image after installing XP SP2 or even XP sp1 without any drivers and making a image.

Now I have 2 hard drives. One right now is the Samsung 500 gig with 80 gig front partition the rest as storage.
The other coming end of this week or beginning next week Raptor. If Raptor shows up and can accept the OS zero fill it or just install XP and follow this instruction.
But on 500 gig brand new hard drive with problematic OS, zero fill then partition install XP 32 bit SP2 save image on 2nd partition. Then before adding drivers try overclock or install the drivers first?

 

[CP5670]

Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal
There are confirmed reports about no POST with some boards if the ambient temp falls below 63F overnight. Yesterday, there was a post about heating a transistor at the power regulation circuit to get system to POST. I tested five boards in the garage this morning (54F). No problem.

I would recommend that you do the same tomorrow. Connect the PC directly to the AC outlet and let it sit overnight in the garage. If you cannot POST in the morning, then wait later in the day for the ambient temp to rise above 68F. Retest.

If you have the cold boot issue below 63F, then RMA the board. Ask Abit to cross ship the replacement board. One person receives an upgrade to IP35 Pro.


TO OTHER IP35-E/IP35 OWNERS:

Anyone else with the overnight no-POST problem with <63F room temperature?

I think I may be getting a variant of this issue. I generally have my computer always on but have noticed that if I turn it off for a day or two (if I go out of town), it exhibits serious instability in Windows even at stock speeds on the first cold boot. The various Windows process turn up errors as soon as I try to run programs, although there are no problems with booting. However, if I do a warm reboot after this, all the problems goes away.

Come to think of it, it's not necessarily limited to cold boots either. I had left home for a few days last week but left the computer on and noticed similar issues when I came back (the heat had been off so the place was fairly cold). They went away after a reboot though.

I would have brought it up here earlier but haven't really had time to worry about it. Do any of the BIOS updates fix this?

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Originally posted by: TungFree

Make an as-loaded image file of the OS so you can quickly return the PC to factory condition. It's not an easy task to clean up driver/software conflicts.

You know a whole lot more than I do.. I learned from you new terminologies but the above I need to confirm.
as loaded image= the image after installing XP SP2 or even XP sp1 without any drivers and making a image.

Now I have 2 hard drives. One right now is the Samsung 500 gig with 80 gig front partition the rest as storage.
The other coming end of this week or beginning next week Raptor. If Raptor shows up and can accept the OS zero fill it or just install XP and follow this instruction.
But on 500 gig brand new hard drive with problematic OS, zero fill then partition install XP 32 bit SP2 save image on 2nd partition. Then before adding drivers try overclock or install the drivers first?

Be sure to remove the 500GB drive when you clean install the OS on the Raptor drive. You may need to zero fill a brand new Raptor to load windows. YMMV.

I would zero fill the 500GB drive now and repartition it. Use extended logical partition for storing data and primary active partition C for the OS. Make an image file after you've clean installed windows. Load Intel chipset. Reboot. Load sound. Reboot. Load LAN. Reboot. Make another image file. Now you can play around with your OS.

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Originally posted by: CP5670

Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal
There are confirmed reports about no POST with some boards if the ambient temp falls below 63F overnight. Yesterday, there was a post about heating a transistor at the power regulation circuit to get system to POST. I tested five boards in the garage this morning (54F). No problem.

I would recommend that you do the same tomorrow. Connect the PC directly to the AC outlet and let it sit overnight in the garage. If you cannot POST in the morning, then wait later in the day for the ambient temp to rise above 68F. Retest.

If you have the cold boot issue below 63F, then RMA the board. Ask Abit to cross ship the replacement board. One person receives an upgrade to IP35 Pro.


TO OTHER IP35-E/IP35 OWNERS:

Anyone else with the overnight no-POST problem with <63F room temperature?

I think I may be getting a variant of this issue. I generally have my computer always on but have noticed that if I turn it off for a day or two (if I go out of town), it exhibits serious instability in Windows even at stock speeds on the first cold boot. The various Windows process turn up errors as soon as I try to run programs, although there are no problems with booting. However, if I do a warm reboot after this, all the problems goes away.

Come to think of it, it's not necessarily limited to cold boots either. I had left home for a few days last week but left the computer on and noticed similar issues when I came back (the heat had been off so the place was fairly cold). They went away after a reboot though.

I would have brought it up here earlier but haven't really had time to worry about it. Do any of the BIOS updates fix this?

Which BIOS are you running? Have you flashed 14 BIOS with the "WB" switch (see my 1st post). Did you clean installed windows? Model and age of your PSU and HDD?

 

[CP5670]

Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal
Which BIOS are you running? Have you flashed 14 BIOS with the "WB" switch (see my 1st post). Did you clean installed windows? Model and age of your PSU and HDD?

It's the default one that came on the board. Not sure what the number/date is, as the BIOS or POST screen don't seem to show it anywhere. I haven't gotten around to updating it since the old floppy drive I had installed appears to be dead. I guess I could do it through Windows though.

I did a clean Windows install when I set up the system but not since then. I run a fairly lean setup though with as few background processes running as possible. RPC and other such processes often give errors when just clicking around the start menu.

There are no signs of instability at all if I'm around and am using the computer regularly (it does Orthos all day at the 3.6ghz speed I normally have it at). At one point I thought it might be the overclock, but as I mentioned the same thing happens at stock speeds, so the temperature drop seems to be the best explanation.

I have a OCZ 520W Powerstream and a WD2500KS 250GB drive, both about 1.5 years old.

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Originally posted by: CP5670

Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal
Which BIOS are you running? Have you flashed 14 BIOS with the "WB" switch (see my 1st post). Did you clean installed windows? Model and age of your PSU and HDD?

It's the default one that came on the board. Not sure what the number/date is, as the BIOS or POST screen don't seem to show it anywhere. I haven't gotten around to updating it since the old floppy drive I had installed appears to be dead. I guess I could do it through Windows though.

I did a clean Windows install when I set up the system but not since then. I run a fairly lean setup though with as few background processes running as possible. RPC and other such processes often give errors when just clicking around the start menu.

There are no signs of instability at all if I'm around and am using the computer regularly (it does Orthos all day at the 3.6ghz speed I normally have it at). At one point I thought it might be the overclock, but as I mentioned the same thing happens at stock speeds, so the temperature drop seems to be the best explanation.

I have a OCZ 520W Powerstream and a WD2500KS 250GB drive, both about 1.5 years old.

Should be 11 BIOS. I would recommend that you download the official 14 BIOS at the bottom of my 1st post. Extra the zip file and edit the ABITFAE.BAT file to include the WB switch.

Command should look like this: AWDFLASH.EXE %1 /py /sn /wb /cd /cp /cc

You can use the flash utility in window to update the BIOS. First reset BIOS. Disable all non-essential applications running in the background like AV and FW. Launch the flash utility and point to the *.BIN file to update BIOS from windows. Shut down PC upon completion. Pull power from the PSU. Hit the power button to discharge caps. Reset CMOS. Reboot back to BIOS and load Optimized Default. Check for boot problem in this state.

Can you also list your RAMs? I've seen similar problem with flaky PSU (very early stage of failure). Note that a cold start will draw a lot of in-rush current from the PSU.

Is the board seeing standby power when your turn off the PC, or did you switch-off the PSU at the AC breaker?

I could think of one test that will probably isolate a bad MB but it's going to take so work. Pull the MB from the case (remove parts as needed to extract board). Remove CMOS battery to discharge the board. Also remove RAMs, GPU, PCI, and PCI-E devices. Wrap the board in a plastic shopping bag and put it in the freezer for one hour.

Now put the board on a non-conductive surface and re-attach the battery, HDD, optical drive, etc. Do this as quickly as possible so you can POST with a cold MB. Short the two power pins on the MB header. If there is no windows corruption after the 1st boot, then the MB is probably okay.

 

[cboath]

Back in stock:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/...t.aspx?Item=13-127-031

No rebate and price of 89.99

 

[CP5670]

Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal

Originally posted by: CP5670

Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal
Which BIOS are you running? Have you flashed 14 BIOS with the "WB" switch (see my 1st post). Did you clean installed windows? Model and age of your PSU and HDD?

It's the default one that came on the board. Not sure what the number/date is, as the BIOS or POST screen don't seem to show it anywhere. I haven't gotten around to updating it since the old floppy drive I had installed appears to be dead. I guess I could do it through Windows though.

I did a clean Windows install when I set up the system but not since then. I run a fairly lean setup though with as few background processes running as possible. RPC and other such processes often give errors when just clicking around the start menu.

There are no signs of instability at all if I'm around and am using the computer regularly (it does Orthos all day at the 3.6ghz speed I normally have it at). At one point I thought it might be the overclock, but as I mentioned the same thing happens at stock speeds, so the temperature drop seems to be the best explanation.

I have a OCZ 520W Powerstream and a WD2500KS 250GB drive, both about 1.5 years old.

Should be 11 BIOS. I would recommend that you download the official 14 BIOS at the bottom of my 1st post. Extra the zip file and edit the ABITFAE.BAT file to include the WB switch.

Command should look like this: AWDFLASH.EXE %1 /py /sn /wb /cd /cp /cc

You can use the flash utility in window to update the BIOS. First reset BIOS. Disable all non-essential applications running in the background like AV and FW. Launch the flash utility and point to the *.BIN file to update BIOS from windows. Shut down PC upon completion. Pull power from the PSU. Hit the power button to discharge caps. Reset CMOS. Reboot back to BIOS and load Optimized Default. Check for boot problem in this state.

Can you also list your RAMs? I've seen similar problem with flaky PSU (very early stage of failure). Note that a cold start will draw a lot of in-rush current from the PSU.

Is the board seeing standby power when your turn off the PC, or did you switch-off the PSU at the AC breaker?

I could think of one test that will probably isolate a bad MB but it's going to take so work. Pull the MB from the case (remove parts as needed to extract board). Remove CMOS battery to discharge the board. Also remove RAMs, GPU, PCI, and PCI-E devices. Wrap the board in a plastic shopping bag and put it in the freezer for one hour.

Now put the board on a non-conductive surface and re-attach the battery, HDD, optical drive, etc. Do this as quickly as possible so you can POST with a cold MB. Short the two power pins on the MB header. If there is no windows corruption after the 1st boot, then the MB is probably okay.

The standby power is always on; I never bother turning that off. The memory is a 2x1GB set of 800mhz Ballistix.

I'll load the 14 BIOS later today, although the problem only seems to show up when I haven't been around for a while (either because the computer has been idle for a long time or the ambient room temp is low) so I will have to wait some time before I can check if it did anything. If that doesn't work I'll probably just live with the issue for now. The refrigerator thing would take much more time than I have these days, although I appreciate the suggestion.

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Originally posted by: cboath
Back in stock:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/...t.aspx?Item=13-127-031

No rebate and price of 89.99

We will see another $20-$30 rebate for December cause the IP35 is $95 AR. Don't procrastine or you'll miss another good dead. I would recommend flashing to official 14 BIOS to address the double post.

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Originally posted by: CP5670

Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal

Originally posted by: CP5670

Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal
Which BIOS are you running? Have you flashed 14 BIOS with the "WB" switch (see my 1st post). Did you clean installed windows? Model and age of your PSU and HDD?

It's the default one that came on the board. Not sure what the number/date is, as the BIOS or POST screen don't seem to show it anywhere. I haven't gotten around to updating it since the old floppy drive I had installed appears to be dead. I guess I could do it through Windows though.

I did a clean Windows install when I set up the system but not since then. I run a fairly lean setup though with as few background processes running as possible. RPC and other such processes often give errors when just clicking around the start menu.

There are no signs of instability at all if I'm around and am using the computer regularly (it does Orthos all day at the 3.6ghz speed I normally have it at). At one point I thought it might be the overclock, but as I mentioned the same thing happens at stock speeds, so the temperature drop seems to be the best explanation.

I have a OCZ 520W Powerstream and a WD2500KS 250GB drive, both about 1.5 years old.

Should be 11 BIOS. I would recommend that you download the official 14 BIOS at the bottom of my 1st post. Extra the zip file and edit the ABITFAE.BAT file to include the WB switch.

Command should look like this: AWDFLASH.EXE %1 /py /sn /wb /cd /cp /cc

You can use the flash utility in window to update the BIOS. First reset BIOS. Disable all non-essential applications running in the background like AV and FW. Launch the flash utility and point to the *.BIN file to update BIOS from windows. Shut down PC upon completion. Pull power from the PSU. Hit the power button to discharge caps. Reset CMOS. Reboot back to BIOS and load Optimized Default. Check for boot problem in this state.

Can you also list your RAMs? I've seen similar problem with flaky PSU (very early stage of failure). Note that a cold start will draw a lot of in-rush current from the PSU.

Is the board seeing standby power when your turn off the PC, or did you switch-off the PSU at the AC breaker?

I could think of one test that will probably isolate a bad MB but it's going to take so work. Pull the MB from the case (remove parts as needed to extract board). Remove CMOS battery to discharge the board. Also remove RAMs, GPU, PCI, and PCI-E devices. Wrap the board in a plastic shopping bag and put it in the freezer for one hour.

Now put the board on a non-conductive surface and re-attach the battery, HDD, optical drive, etc. Do this as quickly as possible so you can POST with a cold MB. Short the two power pins on the MB header. If there is no windows corruption after the 1st boot, then the MB is probably okay.

The standby power is always on; I never bother turning that off. The memory is a 2x1GB set of 800mhz Ballistix.

I'll load the 14 BIOS later today, although the problem only seems to show up when I haven't been around for a while (either because the computer has been idle for a long time or the ambient room temp is low) so I will have to wait some time before I can check if it did anything. If that doesn't work I'll probably just live with the issue for now. The refrigerator thing would take much more time than I have these days, although I appreciate the suggestion.

BIOS 14 will fix the double post if you have standby power to the board. It's best to flash with a floppy using the WB switch. There's nothing to discharge on the board with a prolonged period of in-activity. Low temp can cause no-POST with some boards, but I'm not aware of any short term data corruption. I would up the Crucial B's Vdimm to 2.1 and test RAMs with Memtest86, test #5 for 50 loops. If okay, then retest with a known good PSU if possible.

 

[bigblockchevy]

well i spoke too soon on my second abit ip-35e . it ran all day the day before yesterday --then after power down refused to post . after setting for half a day with the battery out and the jumper set to clear--it booted up into windows--and ran fine the rest of the day and all night . after a download of windows updates it was ready to re-start--then "BINGO" the fail to post again !!


i'm thinking of going back to bios 12 --but i'm not sure if that will solve the problem . two out of two defective ??-- the weird thing is that it runs great--when it decides to run--but that ain't often --- i am about fed up with it .

 

[DragonOrta]

I've been trying to get this stupid thing stable for the past few days. Flashed to the official BIOS 14, and that made just about everything worse.

Flashed to beta 14_05, and everything came together. With official 14, it wouldn't take any FSB setting over 425fsb. It would boot and show the clockspeed as what I set it to on the POST screen, but when I got into windows it would be running at stock FSB. And it would double boot up the arse.

To get it to boot, I would sometimes have to turn the PSU off til the red light went off, turn the PSU on, boot, turn the PSU off and repeat three or four times.

Beta BIOS 14_05 is running perfectly. No double boot and it's running at 445fsb, which official 14 never came close to.

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Originally posted by: bigblockchevy
well i spoke too soon on my second abit ip-35e . it ran all day the day before yesterday --then after power down refused to post . after setting for half a day with the battery out and the jumper set to clear--it booted up into windows--and ran fine the rest of the day and all night . after a download of windows updates it was ready to re-start--then "BINGO" the fail to post again !!


i'm thinking of going back to bios 12 --but i'm not sure if that will solve the problem . two out of two defective ??-- the weird thing is that it runs great--when it decides to run--but that ain't often --- i am about fed up with it .

Chance of two consecutive defective boards is very low. List all your hardware connected to the MB. Any POS OCZ RAMs?

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Originally posted by: DragonOrta
I've been trying to get this stupid thing stable for the past few days. Flashed to the official BIOS 14, and that made just about everything worse.

Flashed to beta 14_05, and everything came together. With official 14, it wouldn't take any FSB setting over 425fsb. It would boot and show the clockspeed as what I set it to on the POST screen, but when I got into windows it would be running at stock FSB. And it would double boot up the arse.

To get it to boot, I would sometimes have to turn the PSU off til the red light went off, turn the PSU on, boot, turn the PSU off and repeat three or four times.

Beta BIOS 14_05 is running perfectly. No double boot and it's running at 445fsb, which official 14 never came close to.

List all your hardware. E21x0 and E4xx0 will top out around 425MHz FSB.

If 14 v5 is stable, then use it.

 

[bigblockchevy]

get this--if you heat the motherboard up with a hair dryer --it will post when warmed . how weird is that ??


-- no OKZ ram here --just kingston ,corsair with pro-mos, -corsair with micron. crucial 800, and super talent with micron chips , they all seem to run fine on the good MB--when it will get past post . the "bad" one would post but was unstable with any combination or parts or settings . i also think it had the no-post below 63f problem--but since it was so unstable you couldn't load windows without a BSOD --the no post below 63f thing wasn't noticed with it .

 

[SerpentRoyal]

If you need to heat up the board to start, then you should RMA the board.