Abit IP35-E Review (500MHz FSB board)...$90 @ NewEgg + $6.61 ship

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Danzilla

Platinum Member
Dec 30, 2000
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nm. (if you read before, was using abit driver disk and IS boot CD, didn't realize.)
 

MadScientist

Platinum Member
Jul 15, 2001
2,154
48
91
Brencat,
Thanks again for the info. I was almost certain you could run 3 GB Ballistix at 4-4-4-4-2T with all slots populated at 400, 406 in yor case. The question still remains if this MB will do 1 x 4 GB Ballistix at these settings. I can only achieve them if I slightly underclock them to 399 (798) or lower. I know I can do them at 408 with either of my 2 sets individually. I didn't try overclocking just 1 set (1 x 2 GB) at 4-4-4-12-1T. All this testing takes time, which most of us, especially at this time of year, have little to spare.

If you could, would you try and see how high you can go at 4-4-4-12-2T at 2.0 to 2.2V. Also try the settings that I used, 5-4-4-12-2T. By just changing the Tcl from 4 to 5 I was able to reach 488 at 2.1V and 509 at 2.2V Memtest86+ stable.

I'll check out your thread in the System mem section.
 

Danzilla

Platinum Member
Dec 30, 2000
2,747
0
76
Bah. Just installing drivers. I checked disk that came with the board first, to see if any of the drivers there were the latest. The intel chipset drivers clearly said 8301013 before installing. I was suspicios because it also had old date of 2007-03-05, but I figured they didnt' update date from old 8301011 version. Installed it and all the parts were 8301011. Only the description just before the install was changed to 8301013 it seems.

Rather annoying.

Edit: Now I'm not sure what's up. The intel install from CD said 8301013 and 2007-03-05, but all the drivers and when finished said 8301011. I just checked the 8301013 I downloaded, and it too has 2007-03-05 date, same as I thought 8301011 was. Grrrr....
 

MadScientist

Platinum Member
Jul 15, 2001
2,154
48
91
Originally posted by: Thund3rb1rd
is there a way to know if an orthos failure is due to cpu or ram?
other than running memtest
just wanting to know if it will do any good to bump up my vdimm when orthos fails, cuz memtest takes so long to run test 5

Brencat gave you some good advice. First isolate and then consolidate. Don't completely rely on Memtest86. It's great for finding faulty ram, especially individual sticks, but I have had ram pass Memtest86 and still give me BSODs. Use the Small FFTs setting in Orthos to stress your CPU and the Blend setting to stress your CPU and ram. If you get no errors with Small FFTs and an error message with the Blend setting it's usually your ram.
Video encoding programs are also good for checking system stability. I use a freeware program called AVI2DVD to convert avi files to DVD files to burn to DVDs to watch on my TV. The HC Encoder it uses has caused my computer, which I thought was Orthos stable, to crash a few times.

 

bigblockchevy

Member
Dec 3, 2007
63
0
0
on the cold post issue

there may be an issue with abits automatic fan control on the MB or in the bios --i was chatting with poly he said he had an abit am2 that did the same thing when any of the fan sockets on the mb wern't hooked up to a fan or if abit's auto stuff wasn't enabled in the bios .

it's running fine today--no problems at all--but its 68f---

as far as hardware--i have numerous sticks of ddr-800 --kingston-super talent --corsair , crucial --- micron -pro mos and other chips . PSU's i also have tried at least a half dozen including ones recommended--as far as the case i tried it striped bare on the box and just about every possible combination you can imagine --and it still pulls the exact same stunts . the stable MB runs and OC's well--the unstable MB is just unstable--no matter what you do-use or set anything to .

the stable MB has one problem--thats a cold-post--but i think it is a thing with the fan-thermal control stuff in the bios--so far it's booting fine--after i enabled everything--knock on wood .
 

WEW

Senior member
Jul 4, 2004
294
0
0
I really need some help - since my wireless keyboard/mouse now has stopped working in windows - even the power of the receiver goess off once its in windows - mouse/keyboard work fine in BIOS.

I connected a USB Keyboard and Mouse - still same problem, works in BIOS, but not in OS. I even changed the BIOS setting to OS for both.

I went in Safe Mode - it still won't work there - is the driver not getting loaded - I have no idea what happened? When I plugged my USB Keyboard/mouse - I see the wizard pop up on Windows but I can't do anything. I know my USB ports work, since I plugged in other devices and they are detected.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks I really dont want to reinstall Windows
 

TungFree

Golden Member
Jan 7, 2001
1,619
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0
Originally posted by: TungFree
SerpentRoyal:
Can you list all your components in your profile so we can quickly check for problem? Are you sure that you don't have a short in the case? Can you flash to 14 BIOS with the WB switch? Load windows with the MB on a non-conductive surface outside the case. I agree that installing windows should not be this difficult. Are you sure the RAMs, CPU, GPU, and all connectors/cards are fully seated? Siren sound is usually related to unseated RAMs.


Ok I did the signiture as you asked, but cannot find the Kingston ram details which you recommended.

Raptor still has not arrived. I am teacher and had no time so far to do any of what you had asked above. It is 3 am here too early to do things in the dark will look for any additional comments on your reaction to my rig list.


It's Kingston N5 1.8V DDR2 800. These are okay since you've memtested them. All the components look good.

You should put the MB on the original shipping box. Remove battery. Clear CMOS. Wait 1/2 hour before replacing battery and CMOS. Reseat both sticks of memory and GPU. Connect mouse, keyboard, optical drive, and the HDD. Connect the 24 and 8 pin plugs from the PSU. Short the two power pins on the MB's header to start. You should be able to go into the BIOS and Load Optimized Default. Hit F10 to save BIOS. Reboot two more times by shorting the two power pins on the MB's header. Now go into BIOS and set the optical drive as 1st boot, and HDD as 2nd boot. Hit F10 to save. Reboot two more times then shut down windows with the original Microsoft CD in the optical drive. Now restart the PC. Windows should load. If system is stuck at some point while loading windows, then the problem is a bad CD, bad optical drive, or corrupt data in the HDD. You can zero fill the HDD to address data corruption.

I have the board on the box it came in Battery out CMoss in clear position. In a 30 minutes I will replace the battery reset CMOS to other right side pins. Reinsert the Video Card ( I think GPU means video Card) Reseat both sticks of memory and GPU. Connect mouse, keyboard, optical drive, and the HDD. Connect the 24 and 8 pin plugs from the PSU. Short the two power pins on the MB's header to start.Reseat both sticks of memory and GPU. Connect mouse, keyboard, optical drive, and the HDD. Connect the 24 and 8 pin plugs from the PSU. Short the two power pins on the MB's header to start.

and will try to boot to Bios and reset it to load optimum defaults Save with F10. reboot 2 times. Set optical drive as 1st boot HDD 2nd boot save with F10 reboot 2 more times. put in CD in Optical drive and reboot

Windows should load outside the case and if it does I have the rest EXCEPT

Where do I find all the step by step ortho testing and overclocking Ortho testing I could find in this thread so after ortho good test what are the steps to Overclocking, I never did that and been searching googling but coming up with tuns to read and no simple steps what to do and what to set to what I recall you said to play with the Vcore LOL but that sounds like my GF LOL
To me I have to get a laugh in some place
I do have 6 months of electronics schooling just am uninformed about overclocking, never thought I would do it.
 

TungFree

Golden Member
Jan 7, 2001
1,619
0
0
Update:

I followed all instructions.
The CD began to boot the system. Loaded the XP up to where it says windows now booting with 3 choices. Before I could select the first one to install the OS it just quit the power on its own within 10 seconds.
This CD has worked for me for years and was the one I installed on the IDE drive a week ago.
The optical drive works because it installed it too just a week ago.
as to the HDD I just zero filled it then partitioned it with Partition Magic 8 on my Athlon Computer into 80 and 420 roughly gigs. There were no options on it to make the front disk as the primary and when I tried to set what seems like primary it said do you want the disk not to be primary. So I left it alone. Assumed Partition Magic makes the first Partition as Primary.

What software can I use to partition it right so I am certai that is not my problem? this is a Samsung Drive

I tried adding Gdisk to the Coldera floppy I used to Zero fill the Samsung Hard drive. While booting it it wanted to see MSDos.exe So I deleted Gdisk
Is there another program that will work with Coldera I have on the floppy?
 

MadScientist

Platinum Member
Jul 15, 2001
2,154
48
91
Originally posted by: WEW
I really need some help - since my wireless keyboard/mouse now has stopped working in windows - even the power of the receiver goess off once its in windows - mouse/keyboard work fine in BIOS.

I connected a USB Keyboard and Mouse - still same problem, works in BIOS, but not in OS. I even changed the BIOS setting to OS for both.

I went in Safe Mode - it still won't work there - is the driver not getting loaded - I have no idea what happened? When I plugged my USB Keyboard/mouse - I see the wizard pop up on Windows but I can't do anything. I know my USB ports work, since I plugged in other devices and they are detected.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks I really dont want to reinstall Windows

Did you try to reconnect the mouse and keyboard by the connect buttons as I previously suggested? Follow the manual on how to do this because if I remember correctly it has to be done in a certain sequence.
Another obvious question, did you check the batteries in the mouse and keyboard? The keyboard and mouse will work with native Windows drivers. You don't need Logitech drivers or software for the mouse and keyboard to work. Possibly your drivers are corrupt, if you have a PS-2 mouse or keyboard, try re-installing the Logitech drivers and software from the disk that came with the keyboard/mouse. I had no problem using my keyboard and mouse in Vista 64 with it's drivers.

When I start up my computer, the F-Lock light on the receiver comes on, then when Windows is starting up both the A1 light and the F-Lock light on the receiver come on, when it fully boots in to Windows both lights go off, unless you have the F-Lock key (Standard F-key functions) enabled, then the F-Lock light will stay on.

You may get more help if you posted this in the Peripherals or General Hardware sections. Don't forget to mention what model Logitech keyboard and mouse you have.
 

SerpentRoyal

Banned
May 20, 2007
3,517
0
0
Originally posted by: bigblockchevy
on the cold post issue

there may be an issue with abits automatic fan control on the MB or in the bios --i was chatting with poly he said he had an abit am2 that did the same thing when any of the fan sockets on the mb wern't hooked up to a fan or if abit's auto stuff wasn't enabled in the bios .

it's running fine today--no problems at all--but its 68f---

as far as hardware--i have numerous sticks of ddr-800 --kingston-super talent --corsair , crucial --- micron -pro mos and other chips . PSU's i also have tried at least a half dozen including ones recommended--as far as the case i tried it striped bare on the box and just about every possible combination you can imagine --and it still pulls the exact same stunts . the stable MB runs and OC's well--the unstable MB is just unstable--no matter what you do-use or set anything to .

the stable MB has one problem--thats a cold-post--but i think it is a thing with the fan-thermal control stuff in the bios--so far it's booting fine--after i enabled everything--knock on wood .

Since you already have one stable MB, I would guess that you know what you're doing. If you swap out all the components after flashing to 14 BIOS and still have stability problem, then RMA the board.

Don't think the cold boot is related to fan control. Use 3 pin mode if you don't have a 4 wire CPU fan. You can put the board in the freezer and retest per my guide a few posts above.
 

SerpentRoyal

Banned
May 20, 2007
3,517
0
0
Originally posted by: WEW
I really need some help - since my wireless keyboard/mouse now has stopped working in windows - even the power of the receiver goess off once its in windows - mouse/keyboard work fine in BIOS.

I connected a USB Keyboard and Mouse - still same problem, works in BIOS, but not in OS. I even changed the BIOS setting to OS for both.

I went in Safe Mode - it still won't work there - is the driver not getting loaded - I have no idea what happened? When I plugged my USB Keyboard/mouse - I see the wizard pop up on Windows but I can't do anything. I know my USB ports work, since I plugged in other devices and they are detected.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks I really dont want to reinstall Windows

I suspect it's some sort of sofware problem. You could try system restore or remove/reload the software. Windows update can royally foul-up these things. Experienced users always have an as-loaded image file of windows to restore from. That's much easier than reloading windows. You may want to go the forum of the mfr that make the keyboard/mouse and see if there is an easy solution.

 

SerpentRoyal

Banned
May 20, 2007
3,517
0
0
Originally posted by: TungFree
Update:

I followed all instructions.
The CD began to boot the system. Loaded the XP up to where it says windows now booting with 3 choices. Before I could select the first one to install the OS it just quit the power on its own within 10 seconds.
This CD has worked for me for years and was the one I installed on the IDE drive a week ago.
The optical drive works because it installed it too just a week ago.
as to the HDD I just zero filled it then partitioned it with Partition Magic 8 on my Athlon Computer into 80 and 420 roughly gigs. There were no options on it to make the front disk as the primary and when I tried to set what seems like primary it said do you want the disk not to be primary. So I left it alone. Assumed Partition Magic makes the first Partition as Primary.

What software can I use to partition it right so I am certai that is not my problem? this is a Samsung Drive

I tried adding Gdisk to the Coldera floppy I used to Zero fill the Samsung Hard drive. While booting it it wanted to see MSDos.exe So I deleted Gdisk
Is there another program that will work with Coldera I have on the floppy?

You probably did something wrong with the partitioning. What were the three options? It appears that this is a case of user error since you were able to successfully load windows before using the same HDD and optical drive. The system now crashes during windows installation.

Go back and zero fill the HDD. DO NOT PARTITION THE HDD. Reboot with the windows CD/DVD and let windows format the HDD and set the partition. Vista must use NTFS. XP can use FAT32 or NTFS. After you've loaded windows, then use Partitionmagic to create an extended logical partition D after the C primary active partition.

 

Thund3rb1rd

Member
Aug 24, 2007
103
0
0
4x1gb ballistix 667 stable at 333fsb 5-5-5-15-2T 2.0v=> 4 hours of memtest #5

e2180 under a geminII w/ 2x120s
earthwatts 430
vcore = 1.465
no other volts off of default
v11 bios (FDD on the way => had one, not used in years, dead :| )

orthos failed at 38 minutes with 320fsb
so far so good at 315mhz -> 1.25 hours and still going
loaded core = 56C

can I squeeze anymore (noticeable) mhz out of this chip with updated bios, tweaking other voltages?
should I see how far I can go with a little more vcore (probably 3250, eh)?
is it really that terrible to run a 1.475 vcore 24/7, considering good air cooling?
 

SerpentRoyal

Banned
May 20, 2007
3,517
0
0
Bump NB voltage up one notch. Do the same with GTLREF. Change Vdimm to 2.1. You chip could probably hit 3.2GHz with more Vcore. That said, anything north of 3.0GHz is blazing fast. I'd stay put at 1.465 and 3.15GHz. I suspect you may be okay @ 3.18GHz. Next step is to run RAM at 400MHz or higher with 4-4-4-12-2T timing. You may want to bump Vdimm to 2.1V.
 

Thund3rb1rd

Member
Aug 24, 2007
103
0
0
Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal
Bump NB voltage up one notch. Do the same with GTLREF. Change Vdimm to 2.1. You chip could probably hit 3.2GHz with more Vcore. That said, anything north of 3.0GHz is blazing fast. I'd stay put at 1.465 and 3.15GHz. I suspect you may be okay @ 3.18GHz. Next step is to run RAM at 400MHz or higher with 4-4-4-12-2T timing. You may want to bump Vdimm to 2.1V.

*nod*
I figured as much. I'll bump up to 3.18 and run my normal applications and see if she's able. I'm not looking to impress or set records. I'm OCing for practicality . CAD mainly, this is also the reason for so much ram. Although, I've discovered that I still can not maneuver though a conceptual 3d rendering as quickly as I would like to. Need a better graphics card , the 8600gt xxx isn't cutting it. So, it'll be a 512mb 8800gt next for me! If they ever make it to sub-$200 :roll:. Then Quad land! Probably an affordable Yorkfield by that time.
 

TungFree

Golden Member
Jan 7, 2001
1,619
0
0
You probably did something wrong with the partitioning. What were the three options? It appears that this is a case of user error since you were able to successfully load windows before using the same HDD and optical drive. The system now crashes during windows installation.


No I backed up the 6 gig ide drive I had zero filled and installed xp on that small IDE then backed it up on the large partition of Samsung and Restored it to the small partition of Samsung. But now I cannot boot with the small one either, and I am looking for a maxtor zero fill program and having a hard time finding it. I tried DBam but the floppy I made of DBam does not show DBam on the floppy just a .bat and a command file and they take up most of the floppu 1333 bites or so. I had downloaded a image of DBam floppy and it has no zero fill program in it I tried DBam and the full name of the of the image file I downloaded and non open a program.

I cannot fully trust the 6 gig drive even after zero filling maybe some of my OS problems were due to it, but the crashing of the power seems before the OS even is up. And that crashing of power happened with the Antec Blue 480 wat as well. That is how My Bios flash went sour, the power stopped in mid flashing.
To remind you:
I had #11 Bios then I flashed nto 14 but crashing became worse so I tried and succeeded with #12. witrh #12 Bios the OS was working from the Samsung drive but I had driver problems with the video card and warning requesters saying I need to ask my admin, that I myself cannot change the driver. ( when I was doing no such thing and I was the administrator.)

Go back and zero fill the HDD. DO NOT PARTITION THE HDD. Reboot with the windows CD/DVD and let windows format the HDD and set the partition. Vista must use NTFS. XP can use FAT32 or NTFS. After you've loaded windows, then use Partitionmagic to create an extended logical partition D after the C primary active partition.

OK I will do that
 

SerpentRoyal

Banned
May 20, 2007
3,517
0
0
You can load Memtest86 and retest RAM. Use test#5 for 50 loops. You most likely will discover that RAMs are okay. I'd go back and reflash 12 BIOS. Make sure you use the "WB" switch during the flash...see my 1st post.
 

brencat

Platinum Member
Feb 26, 2007
2,170
3
76
Originally posted by: MadScientist
Brencat,
Thanks again for the info. I was almost certain you could run 3 GB Ballistix at 4-4-4-4-2T with all slots populated at 400, 406 in yor case. The question still remains if this MB will do 1 x 4 GB Ballistix at these settings. I can only achieve them if I slightly underclock them to 399 (798) or lower. I know I can do them at 408 with either of my 2 sets individually. I didn't try overclocking just 1 set (1 x 2 GB) at 4-4-4-12-1T. All this testing takes time, which most of us, especially at this time of year, have little to spare.

If you could, would you try and see how high you can go at 4-4-4-12-2T at 2.0 to 2.2V. Also try the settings that I used, 5-4-4-12-2T. By just changing the Tcl from 4 to 5 I was able to reach 488 at 2.1V and 509 at 2.2V Memtest86+ stable.

I'll check out your thread in the System mem section.
MadSci... another update on timings:

I tried 5-4-4-9 timings @ 1:1.5 (488 RAM speed) but no go. Specifically 2.05v errors immediately, 2.1v fails Test #4 on first pass, 2.1v with MCH +2 bumps also errors Test #4, and 2.2v with default MCH errors on Test #5 on 2nd pass. Did not try 5-4-4-12 but will revisit that one later.

But I did have luck with 4-4-4-8 @ 1:1.25 (406 RAM speed) @ 2.05v. (Note that I gave it the extra 0.05 juice just to be sure). With tRAS 4 points tighter, it improved my SP1M score by ~ 0.2 sec and system feels really crisp. 3DM06 was modestly higher:

1:1.25 @ 4-4-4-12, 2.0v: SP1M 19.22--19.30--19.30--19.19--19.25. 3DMark: 10826
1:1.25 @ 4-4-4-8, 2.05v: SP1M 19.09--19.07--19.05--19.05--19.03. 3DMark: 10830

I'm currently memtesting 1:1.25 @ 4-4-3-9, 2.05v. This looks promising as bandwidth has improved some 125mb/sec over 4-4-4-8 setting.

By the way, I run all tests in memtest not just test #5. Because as you can see, I failed Test 4 earlier on another setting.


 

TungFree

Golden Member
Jan 7, 2001
1,619
0
0
SerpentRoyal:
You can load Memtest86 and retest RAM. Use test#5 for 50 loops. You most likely will discover that RAMs are okay. I'd go back and reflash 12 BIOS. Make sure you use the "WB" switch during the flash...see my 1st post.

Something odd is how the power supplys both behave.
They start, shut off for 3 seconds, as if they are off, then suddenly restart and go. That is true on warm boot too and with both power supplies.

Never seen that in any computer. Is that normal for this Abit IP35-e?

Is there a way to choose test #5 for 50 loops? or wait till it hits #5 and then count the loops and shut it off if it shows OK?
 

SerpentRoyal

Banned
May 20, 2007
3,517
0
0
That's the double post with all P965 and P35 chipset. BIOS 14 fixes this problem as long as standby power is maintained via the PSU.

I think you hit C, 1, 5, to select test #5.
 

SerpentRoyal

Banned
May 20, 2007
3,517
0
0
Originally posted by: brencat
Originally posted by: MadScientist
Brencat,
Thanks again for the info. I was almost certain you could run 3 GB Ballistix at 4-4-4-4-2T with all slots populated at 400, 406 in yor case. The question still remains if this MB will do 1 x 4 GB Ballistix at these settings. I can only achieve them if I slightly underclock them to 399 (798) or lower. I know I can do them at 408 with either of my 2 sets individually. I didn't try overclocking just 1 set (1 x 2 GB) at 4-4-4-12-1T. All this testing takes time, which most of us, especially at this time of year, have little to spare.

If you could, would you try and see how high you can go at 4-4-4-12-2T at 2.0 to 2.2V. Also try the settings that I used, 5-4-4-12-2T. By just changing the Tcl from 4 to 5 I was able to reach 488 at 2.1V and 509 at 2.2V Memtest86+ stable.

I'll check out your thread in the System mem section.
MadSci... another update on timings:

I tried 5-4-4-9 timings @ 1:1.5 (488 RAM speed) but no go. Specifically 2.05v errors immediately, 2.1v fails Test #4 on first pass, 2.1v with MCH +2 bumps also errors Test #4, and 2.2v with default MCH errors on Test #5 on 2nd pass. Did not try 5-4-4-12 but will revisit that one later.

But I did have luck with 4-4-4-8 @ 1:1.25 (406 RAM speed) @ 2.05v. (Note that I gave it the extra 0.05 juice just to be sure). With tRAS 4 points tighter, it improved my SP1M score by ~ 0.2 sec and system feels really crisp. 3DM06 was modestly higher:

1:1.25 @ 4-4-4-12, 2.0v: SP1M 19.22--19.30--19.30--19.19--19.25. 3DMark: 10826
1:1.25 @ 4-4-4-8, 2.05v: SP1M 19.09--19.07--19.05--19.05--19.03. 3DMark: 10830

I'm currently memtesting 1:1.25 @ 4-4-3-9, 2.05v. This looks promising as bandwidth has improved some 125mb/sec over 4-4-4-8 setting.

By the way, I run all tests in memtest not just test #5. Because as you can see, I failed Test 4 earlier on another setting.

Download S&M 1.9 and run memory test in average mode. It may be faster than Memtest86.

Some newer Crucial B modules may not overclock well. That's why you'll find them for $40-$50 AR. Very high quality 1.8V DDR2 800 RAMs still sell for $50 to $60.
 

TungFree

Golden Member
Jan 7, 2001
1,619
0
0
SerpentRoyal:
That's the double post with all P965 and P35 chipset. BIOS 14 fixes this problem as long as standby power is maintained via the PSU.

what is stand by power and how do you maintain it? you mean a battery safety if power goes out?
What about the 14.05 beta Bios? I read that it fixes problems 14 does not.
 

SerpentRoyal

Banned
May 20, 2007
3,517
0
0
Don't pull out AC plug or turn off PSU via the switch at the back of the PSU and you will maintain standby power. PC shut down is fine.

Don't know about that Beta. Office 14 works for me.
 
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