Abit IP35-E Review (500MHz FSB board)...$90 @ NewEgg + $6.61 ship

[SerpentRoyal]

Originally posted by: milan03
Serpent, I think I'll stick with stable 3.8Ghz 375x8 @ 1.49V (1.43 Win) as it is 24/7 orthos stable. The other voltages are all default, memory is 2.1V. Temps ar 39C full load orthos 10min read from COreTemp 0.95.4 .
Serpent, tell me one thing... What is the difference in "Priority" setting in orthos? I tested the system under priority 1 and never failed. However under priority 9 it failed after about 9minutes.
Whats the deal there?
Thanks so much.

The real stability test is to see how your PC run with your software. I only run Orthos/Prime95 for 1 to 2 hours.

 

[TungFree]

SerpentRoyal: ...Load Orthos and run in Large mode for 10 minutes. If okay, then you can raise Vcore and FSB to overclock the CPU...

Because I have a Q6600 at what amounts do I raise the Vcore and FSB?

I have orthos and 4 other uitilities downloaded to measure things. But some guidance would make me less likely to make errors which I have already made 2, and suffered thereby.
If mem test shows no erors and Orthos in large mode runs stably for 10 minutes,

can someone break this down into small steps I never did this before.
I have XP Pro SP2 loaded with Intel, sound and Lan drivers in, and was told that it is best to Oveclock before going further with the updates and patches to bring up to date.

 

[timers007]

Is anyone here updating the bios NOT using a floppy drive. Either using a USB or DVD/CD as a bootable drive instead, OR using Abit's FlashMenu program? I am making a new build soon, and didnt want to install a floppy drive of any kind, as its not necessary these days.

I read online that Flashmenu seemed to be ok, though creating a bootable CD with the same files the CD has, and then setting priority to that, also seems to be the same idea that the floppy would be.

I know floppy is most reliable, and safest way to do it, but still. Thanks

 

[milan03]

http://www.filanthropy.com/ser...ScreenShots/3.8GHz.jpg
I'm a happy camper now
Thanks SR

 

[imported_Husky55]

Originally posted by: Heidfirst

Originally posted by: Husky55 Anyway, cross ship and charges are listed below for those interested:

Cross Ship Charge for (IP35-E) : $157

Upgrade Shipment Charge for (IP35E) : $15

mmm, you do realise that you'll get $150 back when you return the mobo?

Yes, I do. I posted for those who wanted to know what it involves. This info is revealed only after the RMA was approved. You can buy this MB for less than $100.

It's not about the money issue here. I spent a long time switching MB, and if you ever worked with a Tuniq 120 and the Abit IP35-E you would know it was a bitch of a job. Did you ever connect a 8 pin power connector with the Tuniq in place on the Abit in an Anter P180 case? or the fan controller under the Tuniq? The Tuniq has very sharp edges and the design with the sharp cutting edges make it a real bad situation. I have bleeding knuckles, broken skins, black and blues fingers to show for it.

And then the MB is defective. Then I had to do it all over again.

 

[Zap]

I'm now using an IP35-E in my main rig, and thus have had some time to live with it. Couple of oddities besides the occasional double boot.

Occasionally it will hang on POST. Hit reset, then all is fine.

Occasionally CPU will be stuck in 6x multiplier. Haven't figured it out yet. For instance it is stuck right now. Running Orthos and pegging both cores, CPU-Z, Windows System Properties and Core Temp all report 6x multiplier. Default is 8x (E6750). Gonna double check in BIOS, but IIRC I shut off whatever option for CPU power management under CPU options.

I'm using shipping BIOS. Maybe time to update?

EDIT: Here's BIOS settings...

SoftMenu Setup
-Multiplier Factor = 8 x
Advanced BIOS Features
-CPU Feature
--Thermal Control = Enabled
--Limit CPUID MaxVal = Disabled
--C1E Function = Enabled
--Execute Disable Bit = Enabled
--Virtualization Technology = Enabled
--EIST Function = Enabled

I tried EIST disabled, and now it seems to hit 8x multiplier under load. However, I remember setting to Enabled earlier while trying to fix the same problem.

Anyways, Core Temp reports 38ºC idle. Under Orthos it was hitting around 45ºC at 6x multiplier and now around 71ºC at 8x multiplier. CPU-Z reports Vcore at 1.344v. Using a Scythe Ninja with Thermalright bolt-through kit and running passively (okay, a 120mm case fan a couple inches behind it). FSB is 400MHz.

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Originally posted by: TungFree

SerpentRoyal: ...Load Orthos and run in Large mode for 10 minutes. If okay, then you can raise Vcore and FSB to overclock the CPU...

Because I have a Q6600 at what amounts do I raise the Vcore and FSB?

I have orthos and 4 other uitilities downloaded to measure things. But some guidance would make me less likely to make errors which I have already made 2, and suffered thereby.
If mem test shows no erors and Orthos in large mode runs stably for 10 minutes,

can someone break this down into small steps I never did this before.
I have XP Pro SP2 loaded with Intel, sound and Lan drivers in, and was told that it is best to Oveclock before going further with the updates and patches to bring up to date.

I think there's a version of Prime95 that will automatically load all 4 cores. Test for 10 minutes. If okay, then raise FSB and retest. I'd run 1 to 2 hours for long-term stability.

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Originally posted by: timers007
Is anyone here updating the bios NOT using a floppy drive. Either using a USB or DVD/CD as a bootable drive instead, OR using Abit's FlashMenu program? I am making a new build soon, and didnt want to install a floppy drive of any kind, as its not necessary these days.

I read online that Flashmenu seemed to be ok, though creating a bootable CD with the same files the CD has, and then setting priority to that, also seems to be the same idea that the floppy would be.

I know floppy is most reliable, and safest way to do it, but still. Thanks

I've flashed with USB and in windows. It's always best to use floppy.

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Originally posted by: Zap
I'm now using an IP35-E in my main rig, and thus have had some time to live with it. Couple of oddities besides the occasional double boot.

Occasionally it will hang on POST. Hit reset, then all is fine.

Occasionally CPU will be stuck in 6x multiplier. Haven't figured it out yet. For instance it is stuck right now. Running Orthos and pegging both cores, CPU-Z, Windows System Properties and Core Temp all report 6x multiplier. Default is 8x (E6750). Gonna double check in BIOS, but IIRC I shut off whatever option for CPU power management under CPU options.

I'm using shipping BIOS. Maybe time to update?

EDIT: Here's BIOS settings...

SoftMenu Setup
-Multiplier Factor = 8 x
Advanced BIOS Features
-CPU Feature
--Thermal Control = Enabled
--Limit CPUID MaxVal = Disabled
--C1E Function = Enabled
--Execute Disable Bit = Enabled
--Virtualization Technology = Enabled
--EIST Function = Enabled

I tried EIST disabled, and now it seems to hit 8x multiplier under load. However, I remember setting to Enabled earlier while trying to fix the same problem.

Anyways, Core Temp reports 38ºC idle. Under Orthos it was hitting around 45ºC at 6x multiplier and now around 71ºC at 8x multiplier. CPU-Z reports Vcore at 1.344v. Using a Scythe Ninja with Thermalright bolt-through kit and running passively (okay, a 120mm case fan a couple inches behind it). FSB is 400MHz.

12 BIOS is the quickest and probably most stable. Some vendors will try to bypass the double post protocol of P965 and P35 chipsets by tinkering with the BIOS. IP35 Pro uses Guru which eliminates the double post. However, it is still possible to have corrupt BIOS during normal use. You'll also see similar BIOS anomaly with some Gigabyte boards.

Based on my tests, P965 and P35 chipsets need to check for FSB and strap at the start of a cold boot. This is the best way to make sure that your FSB and strap are properly engaged.

14 BIOS fixes the double POST. Be sure to flash using the WB switch. After flashing, shut down PC. Turn off PSU (LED on MB goes OFF). Clear CMOS. Reboot to BIOS and load Optimized Default. Exit and return to BIOS to adjust other parameters.

Flaky RAMs or unstable overclock can result in your noted observations. Manually set RAM voltage and timing.

Disable Thermal control. Set the boot HDD as the 1st boot. Disable booting of all other devices in BIOS. Make sure HDD is #1 in the boot priority screen.

Check you windows power settings. Use minimal power in conjunction with C1E and EIST to dynamically change CPU multi. Is this a clean install of windows? Can you confirm this issue with RMClock?

 

[SerpentRoyal]

IP35 is now OOS at MWAVE. I may have to amend my prediction about the IP35-E rebate. It's getting more difficult to find a quality 500MHz FSB Intel board for less than $70.

 

[manimal]

Check your local frys for these, they are still in stock at the one near me, indiana clearanced at 79 bucks no rebate. I went and got an extra one and they still had a bunch, the guys there keep trying to talk me out of buying them lol, their techs swear up and down that these are the worst boards they ever used lol I told them I would buy out the lot for 300 bucks-they had 7, their manager laughed at me.



Maybe one of you guys would see a simple fix for the last little problem I am having. I am trying to get my dual boot setup going and I cant get the XP drive to boot. I ran easy bcd after I installed the vista drive and it was a no go. I have the xp drive on sata 1 and vista on sata 2 and I even tried copying over the boot ini and hal.dll and the ntldr ntldrmgr and xp still will not load. If anyone knows an easy fix I would greatly be indebted.

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Originally posted by: manimal
Check your local frys for these, they are still in stock at the one near me, indiana clearanced at 79 bucks no rebate. I went and got an extra one and they still had a bunch, the guys there keep trying to talk me out of buying them lol, their techs swear up and down that these are the worst boards they ever used lol I told them I would buy out the lot for 300 bucks-they had 7, their manager laughed at me.



Maybe one of you guys would see a simple fix for the last little problem I am having. I am trying to get my dual boot setup going and I cant get the XP drive to boot. I ran easy bcd after I installed the vista drive and it was a no go. I have the xp drive on sata 1 and vista on sata 2 and I even tried copying over the boot ini and hal.dll and the ntldr ntldrmgr and xp still will not load. If anyone knows an easy fix I would greatly be indebted.

You know stupid Californians...we clean out all the red tag specials within one shift.

The esiest way to run a double boot rig is to set up two primary C partitions on the same HDD. I will describe the technique for PartitionMagic, but the general principle should remain constant.

Use PM to split the boot HDD into two primary partitions. Set the 1st Primary partition active, boot into it, and install XP.

Reboot PC and use PM to set the 2nd Primary partition active, boot into it, and install Vista.

Go into windows and install PQBoot (or the equivalent boot loader bundled with newer PM).

Use PQBoot or the installed boot loader to switch between the XP and Vista. The inactive primary partition will be hidden from view.

 

[bal3wolf]

Originally posted by: manimal
Check your local frys for these, they are still in stock at the one near me, indiana clearanced at 79 bucks no rebate. I went and got an extra one and they still had a bunch, the guys there keep trying to talk me out of buying them lol, their techs swear up and down that these are the worst boards they ever used lol I told them I would buy out the lot for 300 bucks-they had 7, their manager laughed at me.q]

Do they even have techs that know anything the ip35-e has been one of the better boards i have had. Now running bios 14 double boot is gone pretty much and i get alot better overclock then a friend running a 200$ motherboard.

 

[milan03]

has anyone hit over 500Mhz stable on ip35-e? I'm having trouble going over 500 stable...seems that 490Mhz gives me the highest stable fsb

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Have seen a few posts with IP35-E @ 500MHz FSB. Not many E6xx0 will break 500MHz. The E21x0 and E4xx0 are limited to about 425MHz.

Run Memtest86 to check your RAMs.

 

[milan03]

Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal
Have seen a few posts with IP35-E @ 500MHz FSB. Not many E6xx0 will break 500MHz. The E21x0 and E4xx0 are limited to about 425MHz.

Run Memtest86 to check your RAMs.

memory passed 50 loops on memtest #5 at 500Mhz and 2.2v. 5-5-5-18-2T.
I can boot to windows at 501 but orthos freezes comp after justfew sec. No matter if i raiesed NB SB or VTT voltage as well as cpu voltage.
This is teh highest stable

 

[manimal]

Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal

Originally posted by: manimal
Check your local frys for these, they are still in stock at the one near me, indiana clearanced at 79 bucks no rebate. I went and got an extra one and they still had a bunch, the guys there keep trying to talk me out of buying them lol, their techs swear up and down that these are the worst boards they ever used lol I told them I would buy out the lot for 300 bucks-they had 7, their manager laughed at me.



Maybe one of you guys would see a simple fix for the last little problem I am having. I am trying to get my dual boot setup going and I cant get the XP drive to boot. I ran easy bcd after I installed the vista drive and it was a no go. I have the xp drive on sata 1 and vista on sata 2 and I even tried copying over the boot ini and hal.dll and the ntldr ntldrmgr and xp still will not load. If anyone knows an easy fix I would greatly be indebted.

You know stupid Californians...we clean out all the red tag specials within one shift.

The esiest way to run a double boot rig is to set up two primary C partitions on the same HDD. I will describe the technique for PartitionMagic, but the general principle should remain constant.

Use PM to split the boot HDD into two primary partitions. Set the 1st Primary partition active, boot into it, and install XP.

Reboot PC and use PM to set the 2nd Primary partition active, boot into it, and install Vista.

Go into windows and install PQBoot (or the equivalent boot loader bundled with newer PM).

Use PQBoot or the installed boot loader to switch between the XP and Vista. The inactive primary partition will be hidden from view.

Thx for the info SR-

So I could theoretically just blow away my XP partition and disconnect my vista drive and do your method to get dual boot working? Ive spent the last 2 days getting all my crap installed lol-

Just installed a 8800gts 512 evga that I impulse purchased at frys-i know I live really close to it-and its tearing sh!t up, just got 15000 3dmarks 06 with the thing slightly OCd and using 3.4 on my quad with the machine in my sig:

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Originally posted by: milan03

Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal
Have seen a few posts with IP35-E @ 500MHz FSB. Not many E6xx0 will break 500MHz. The E21x0 and E4xx0 are limited to about 425MHz.

Run Memtest86 to check your RAMs.

memory passed 50 loops on memtest #5 at 500Mhz and 2.2v. 5-5-5-18-2T.
I can boot to windows at 501 but orthos freezes comp after justfew sec. No matter if i raiesed NB SB or VTT voltage as well as cpu voltage.
This is teh highest stable

Looks like you're also at the upper limit of your VID and temp. My E6320 topped out around 488 to 490MHz FSB. Without a known good CPU capable of +510MHz FSB, we can only speculate that it's the CPU or the MB.

How's your PWM temp? I suspect that your NB heat sink is only moderately warm to the touch?

Have you tweaked GTLREF? Increase NB and SB by one notch. Bump VTT and GTLREF to maximum.

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Originally posted by: manimal

Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal

Originally posted by: manimal
Check your local frys for these, they are still in stock at the one near me, indiana clearanced at 79 bucks no rebate. I went and got an extra one and they still had a bunch, the guys there keep trying to talk me out of buying them lol, their techs swear up and down that these are the worst boards they ever used lol I told them I would buy out the lot for 300 bucks-they had 7, their manager laughed at me.



Maybe one of you guys would see a simple fix for the last little problem I am having. I am trying to get my dual boot setup going and I cant get the XP drive to boot. I ran easy bcd after I installed the vista drive and it was a no go. I have the xp drive on sata 1 and vista on sata 2 and I even tried copying over the boot ini and hal.dll and the ntldr ntldrmgr and xp still will not load. If anyone knows an easy fix I would greatly be indebted.

You know stupid Californians...we clean out all the red tag specials within one shift.

The esiest way to run a double boot rig is to set up two primary C partitions on the same HDD. I will describe the technique for PartitionMagic, but the general principle should remain constant.

Use PM to split the boot HDD into two primary partitions. Set the 1st Primary partition active, boot into it, and install XP.

Reboot PC and use PM to set the 2nd Primary partition active, boot into it, and install Vista.

Go into windows and install PQBoot (or the equivalent boot loader bundled with newer PM).

Use PQBoot or the installed boot loader to switch between the XP and Vista. The inactive primary partition will be hidden from view.

Thx for the info SR-

So I could theoretically just blow away my XP partition and disconnect my vista drive and do your method to get dual boot working? Ive spent the last 2 days getting all my crap installed lol-

Just installed a 8800gts 512 evga that I impulse purchased at frys-i know I live really close to it-and its tearing sh!t up, just got 1500 3dmarks 06 with the thing slightly OCd and using 3.4 on my quad with the machine in my sig:

I'd load XP first, then Vista.

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Okay...after several hours of tinkering, I was able to replicate a condition with 14 BIOS where the FSB would default to 200MHz after boot.

1. Make sure the PC is stable with your favorite overclock settings.

2. Shut down PC and re-boot into windows.

3. Shut down PC again and immediately turn-off the power to the PSU. Wait 45 to 60 seconds and re-apply power to the PSU. The actual wait time may vary by about 15 seconds depending on the residual charge in the PSU.

4. Immediately turn on PC. Notice that there is no DOUBLE POST. Once you're in windows, use CPUz or equivalent to confirm that system is running at 200MHz FSB. C1E and EIST should still function.

5. Shut down PC and re-boot into windows. Note the double post. Now PC will run at the preset FSB speed in BIOS.

If you wait more than 90 seconds before re-applying power to the PSU, then the FSB will set correctly when you reboot the PC. It appears that the patch for the double post still need some minor tweaking.

 

[GundamF91]

Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal
Okay...after several hours of tinkering, I was able to replicate a condition with 14 BIOS where the FSB would default to 200MHz after boot.

1. Make sure the PC is stable with your favorite overclock settings.

2. Shut down PC and re-boot into windows.

3. Shut down PC again and immediately turn-off the power to the PSU. Wait 45 to 60 seconds and re-apply power to the PSU. The actual wait time may vary by about 15 seconds depending on the residual charge in the PSU.

4. Immediately turn on PC. Notice that there is no DOUBLE POST. Once you're in windows, use CPUz or equivalent to confirm that system is running at 200MHz FSB. C1E and EIST should still function.

5. Shut down PC and re-boot into windows. Note the double post. Now PC will run at the preset FSB speed in BIOS.

If you wait more than 90 seconds before re-applying power to the PSU, then the FSB will set correctly when you reboot the PC. It appears that the patch for the double post still need some minor tweaking.

Ahah!!! I've had one of these "reset to 200mhz preset" just yesterday. It's very odd because the system will get into Windows on 200mhz, and then when I restart and I get into BIOS, it still remembers my setting of 333mhz in BIOS. I think my chronic issues with turning system on and no POST (and 2nd try boots up like normal), is related somewhat to this.

I always turn off and then unplug the power (about 5-10sec after the computer shuts down). I've suspected residual charge issue, because sometimes after a restart on a "blank screen with power on", the system will have the NumLock light on as well as the "red light" on IP35E. If my NumLock is on when the system restarts, I usually know that it wont' show any image on monitor. So to cure this, I would have to shut off my Antec Earthwatts PSU, until the red light and NumLock go off, which tells me residual charges are now gone. When I switch PSU on again, it'll double post, and then run boot up just fine.

So I think this has something to do with the PSU residual power, and how much it affects the BIOS setting with patch 14.

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Use 12 BIOS to force the PC to check for the FSB speed and strap at each boot. This will fix the 200MHz default boot.

 

[SerpentRoyal]

Another user was able to isolate the cold boot problem to a transistor mounted on the MB.

http://forum.abit-usa.com/atta...tid=20696&d=1197740738

http://forum.abit-usa.com/show...hp?p=901398#post901398

 

[bigblockchevy]

Originally posted by: SerpentRoyal
Okay...after several hours of tinkering, I was able to replicate a condition with 14 BIOS where the FSB would default to 200MHz after boot.

1. Make sure the PC is stable with your favorite overclock settings.

2. Shut down PC and re-boot into windows.

3. Shut down PC again and immediately turn-off the power to the PSU. Wait 45 to 60 seconds and re-apply power to the PSU. The actual wait time may vary by about 15 seconds depending on the residual charge in the PSU.

4. Immediately turn on PC. Notice that there is no DOUBLE POST. Once you're in windows, use CPUz or equivalent to confirm that system is running at 200MHz FSB. C1E and EIST should still function.

5. Shut down PC and re-boot into windows. Note the double post. Now PC will run at the preset FSB speed in BIOS.

If you wait more than 90 seconds before re-applying power to the PSU, then the FSB will set correctly when you reboot the PC. It appears that the patch for the double post still need some minor tweaking.

that is exactly what my second ip35e is doing !!--thanks for the tip.

 

[SerpentRoyal]

This is a unique issue with 14 BIOS (not specific to any IP35-E MB).