I have a couple of cases that I enjoy very much for small builds and large builds. Unfortunately they are the Corsair 350D, and the Corsair 460X RGB. I thoroughly enjoy them really nice closed and compact, even with water cooling.
Get an external case for it now that you're changing cases, and stow the drive away once you stop needing it. Easy. That way you can pull it out occasionally if you need too without any hassle. Waiting just sticks you with an unnecessarily large case with features you don't actually want.For the near future anyway, I need a Blu-ray burner. I'd like to get rid of needing that at some point.
For the near future anyway, I need a Blu-ray burner. I'd like to get rid of needing that at some point.
One nice thing about having 5.25" bays (even if you don't have an optical drive) is using it to mount your SSD or hard drives.
Well, part of the problem is, my case is in a cubby in / under a desk. So it doesn't get good airflow. I think that's the real issue, and there's no rear exhaust fan, so not much air movement over the VRMs (which ARE heatsinked, but they still need airflow).
So, a few notes for prospective first-time (or first time in ten years, as me) water cooling builders:
- Don't go anywhere near a Fractal Define R4. I would like to send a sincere f*ck you to the design team behind that case. "Front 240mm radiator support" my rear end. Sure, if you're willing and able to mangle the front fan mount entirely, and spend 20 minutes fiddling to make the screws connect. And don't get me started with the top mount that I guess could fit either a radiator or a set of fans (even though it is offset!) Great job, Fractal. Yes, I know it's an old design. I timed my purchase perfectly - just a couple of months before the R5 launched. *pats self on back* (Oh, did you say mangled fan mount? Yes. Watch your fingers.
And that was me being extra careful.- If your radiator mount is fiddly, give yourself enough slack in the tubing to move stuff around, for example to set the fans to pull rather than push.
- Check that the fans spin freely before connecting everything and filling the loop. Saves you a lot of annoying rat-tat-tat noises and a couple of hours of involuntary case modding.
Other than that, I'm very happy with my build. The increase in general speed from the previous CPU is rather remarkable. Haven't been able to run many benchmarks yet, but I expect everything to go smoothly.
I would probably recommend that too. Or the Define S (ATX) or C (mATX) if you don't need 5.25" bays. As I've said, the R4 is reportedly quieter. But not by much, and everything else that I have pointed out should be drastically better.
My rad is mounted exactly as Fractal shows it in their explainer video. Now, I find it rather odd to mount a radiator to a somewhat flimsy plastic insert in the first place, but fair enough. Only being able to use six out of eight screws is far worse. But my main issue was clearance for the fans. Apparently, the plastic was slightly warped inwards, and Nidec Gentle Typhoons are rather big fans, getting very close to the edge of the frame, leading to them making contact with the plastic fan grille, especially at higher fan speeds. That's why you don't make a fan grille out of flat plastic in the first place, especially one that you have to screw high-tension screws into a heavy copper radiator through. It's no wonder it warped. I'd call it inevitable. Luckily, cutting it away didn't necessitate further mangling of the fan mount holes I was actually using, at least.I see what happened there. you had a radiator that didn't space the fans for the way the fan placement is configured in the R4. It was a known issue back in the day. I mounted a Kraken x60 in mine. fit perfectly. Just gave it away to a friend and built a new Ryzen using the R5 and a Corsair h110i easy peasy. With the R4 you had to be a lot pickier on the aio you used to get the fans to line up properly.
My rad is mounted exactly as Fractal shows it in their explainer video. Now, I find it rather odd to mount a radiator to a somewhat flimsy plastic insert in the first place, but fair enough. Only being able to use six out of eight screws is far worse. But my main issue was clearance for the fans. Apparently, the plastic was slightly warped inwards, and Nidec Gentle Typhoons are rather big fans, getting very close to the edge of the frame, leading to them making contact with the plastic fan grille, especially at higher fan speeds. That's why you don't make a fan grille out of flat plastic in the first place, especially one that you have to screw high-tension screws into a heavy copper radiator through. It's no wonder it warped. I'd call it inevitable. Luckily, cutting it away didn't necessitate further mangling of the fan mount holes I was actually using, at least.
Also, as the fan grille is made for 2 140mm fans, are there any 240mm rads that fit both the 120mm mount holes? I can't quite imagine that.
1.375 is perfectly safe also. No problem.I managed to get a stable 3.80Ghz on my 1600, at 1.3250V (CPU-Z reports 1.360V). I mounted a 120mm fan as an exhaust at the top of the case, so it's only getting up to 88C package temp.
Though, I'm still not certain if it's throttling. The CPU graphs in Task Manager aren't all as "full".
Edit: Ugh. Black-screen, when switching tabs with YouTube videos running.
So now I'm trying 1.3500V.
What board are you using? Need to make sure you use LLC if it's available too.I managed to get a stable 3.80Ghz on my 1600, at 1.3250V (CPU-Z reports 1.360V). I mounted a 120mm fan as an exhaust at the top of the case, so it's only getting up to 88C package temp.
Though, I'm still not certain if it's throttling. The CPU graphs in Task Manager aren't all as "full".
Edit: Ugh. Black-screen, when switching tabs with YouTube videos running.
So now I'm trying 1.3500V.
I would kinda-sorta expect those kinds of features to be limited to X370. There has to be some differentiation, no?There's no control over offset or LLC on the ASRock AB350M Pro4 UEFI 2.40.
I would kinda-sorta expect those kinds of features to be limited to X370. There has to be some differentiation, no?
Ditto, LLC is available on my MSI B350 TomahawkNo, because the B350 and X370 are marketed as Overclocking chipsets. I have it on my MSI B350M Gaming Pro as well as my X370 Taichi.
tCL 14
tRCDRD 14
tRCDWR 14
tRP 14
tRAS 28
tRC 50
tRRD_S 4
tRRD_L 6
tFAW 23
tWTR_S 3
tWTR_L 8
tWR 16
tMAW.MAC 0
TrdrdScL 3
TwrwrScL 3
tRFC 312
tRFC2 192
tRFC4 132
tCWL 12
tRTP 8
Trdwr 8
Twrrd 1
TwrwrSc 1
TwrwrSd 6
TwrwrDd 6
TrdrdSc 1
TrdrdSd 4
TrdrdDd 4
tCKE 6
ProcODT AutoNow I am running UEFI rev 2.36 on my X370 Taichi + 1800x. I was forced to throw out all my old memory timings since the UEFI configs I saved to USB were declared corrupt. Oh the joy of BETA BIOSes!
I have removed the 3466.bin file from my dropbox account, so the link earlier in the thread is now broken. Sorry! The file is no longer relevant.
Also, my method of using Ryzen Master to set a baseline for DDR4-3200 has also failed. Ryzen Master - the latest version - has stopped playing along so well with my board when it comes to setting memory speed/timings. So I now have to tune by hand. I chose the UEFI defaults for DDR4-2133, altered primaries, and booted it all the way to DDR4-3333 without difficulty (completes y-cruncher 2g without crashing or other undesirable behavior). Here are my timings for DDR4-3333:
Code:tCL 14 tRCDRD 14 tRCDWR 14 tRP 14 tRAS 28 tRC 50 tRRD_S 4 tRRD_L 6 tFAW 23 tWTR_S 3 tWTR_L 8 tWR 16 tMAW.MAC 0 TrdrdScL 3 TwrwrScL 3 tRFC 312 tRFC2 192 tRFC4 132 tCWL 12 tRTP 8 Trdwr 8 Twrrd 1 TwrwrSc 1 TwrwrSd 6 TwrwrDd 6 TrdrdSc 1 TrdrdSd 4 TrdrdDd 4 tCKE 6 ProcODT Auto
I can edit later with voltages but the main ones are 1.4v vcore LLC level 3, 1.175v SoC LLC level 3, 1.42v vDIMM. Testing DDR4-3466 with these timings under 2.36, but I'm not done with that yet.
Thanks. I suggest not using Ryzen Master as any boards that support bclk, it sorta screws with how it reads the current clock speeds, timings, and even voltages.