AMD RYZEN Builders Thread

[IEC]

My RAM is Hynix though, not Samsung E die?

He's posting that for @Eric1987

 

[DrMrLordX]

Have you ever tried running Core Temp at all to see your cpu temps? I just ran it with my overclock of 3.9, and I see it dip down to 1c for some reason. Have you experienced this at all with any temp monitoring with the new bios?

CoreTemp and HWiNFO64 both seem to work the same with 3.0 as they did with 2.4 .

 

[Reinvented]

CoreTemp and HWiNFO64 both seem to work the same with 3.0 as they did with 2.4 .

It happens randomly sometimes. I'm not sure what's causing it. I may end up trying to reflash 3.0 and see what happens,. Thanks though!

 

[IRobot23]

My RAM is Hynix though, not Samsung E die?

I know.
You need to see if your RAM is unstable or DF is unstable. Sometimes MB messes up dram TIMINGs so try to do it manually.

Please do this
TYHPHOON

 

[Eric1987]

DDR4 Samsung E die 3200MHz.

Here you have all timings, do it manually. Update BIOS to latest (anytime now there will be new bios).

Should I try that now or when the newest update comes out? I am on the latest available. Nope didn't work my bios had an option not on that list and I didn't have the BankGroupSwap option. The other one was the TRFC third one in my bios that was labeled TRFC_4. The whole third row wasn't included in my bios either.

 

[EXCellR8]

B350 board finally arrived, Tomahawk Arctic. Don't ask why I picked another MSI board after the Carbon gave me so much grief... I guess I just like the abuse.

actually it was an open box for under 100 bucks so I just kind of grabbed it. Looks like it at least has AGESA 1006 support as of June 30

 

[Paul98]

My build is up and running! Other than some small issues with the case everything went smooth and worked just fine from the first startup. Was able to set XMP to ~3000 and it worked just fine.

 

[IEC]

Friend commissioned a gaming build. I'm pairing a Ryzen 1600 OC with a Gigabyte GTX 1080. Using the new Scythe Mugen CPU cooler which is AM4 compatible out of the box and uses a mounting system very similar to Noctua's.

Will post full parts list and pictures tomorrow once I deliver the rig.

 

[IRobot23]

Should I try that now or when the newest update comes out? I am on the latest available. Nope didn't work my bios had an option not on that list and I didn't have the BankGroupSwap option. The other one was the TRFC third one in my bios that was labeled TRFC_4. The whole third row wasn't included in my bios either.

You can try that now.
can you post CPU-Z (motherboard)

 

[VirtualLarry]

Well, UEFI BIOS version 3.00 for the ASRock AB350M Pro4 worked well for me, with AGESA 1.0.0.6a. The previous 2.50 UEFI with AGESA 1.0.0.6, I still could not enable XMP and get my RAM running at the rated 2400 (I have four sticks). It would auto-downclock the RAM to 1866. (Not even 2133!).

Now, I've enabled XMP, and both the BIOS as well as CPU-Z 1.80 inside of Windows 10 64-bit, report my DRAM clock to be 1200Mhz / 2400 rated speed, with all four sticks populated.

Great work AMD!

What's the fastest DRAM clock that you can run, with all four sticks populated, with AGESA 1.0.0.6a, I wonder. Can you run 4x16GB 3000 speed?

 

[scannall]

Well, UEFI BIOS version 3.00 for the ASRock AB350M Pro4 worked well for me, with AGESA 1.0.0.6a. The previous 2.50 UEFI with AGESA 1.0.0.6, I still could not enable XMP and get my RAM running at the rated 2400 (I have four sticks). It would auto-downclock the RAM to 1866. (Not even 2133!).

Now, I've enabled XMP, and both the BIOS as well as CPU-Z 1.80 inside of Windows 10 64-bit, report my DRAM clock to be 1200Mhz / 2400 rated speed, with all four sticks populated.

Great work AMD!

What's the fastest DRAM clock that you can run, with all four sticks populated, with AGESA 1.0.0.6a, I wonder. Can you run 4x16GB 3000 speed?

So far it seems like Asrock has the best bios. I'm sure at some point they will all be more or less equal though.

 

[EXCellR8]

I'm certainly going to try for 3200mhz on the MSI BIOS

Still need to swap the h110i over to the AM4 adapter except I have no idea what I did with it

 

[IEC]

Ryzen 1600 OC + GTX 1080 build complete:
CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor (Purchased For $190.00)
CPU Cooler: Scythe - Mugen 5 51.2 CFM CPU Cooler (Purchased For $46.99)
Motherboard: Gigabyte - GA-AB350-GAMING 3 ATX AM4 Motherboard (Purchased For $90.00)
Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory (Purchased For $129.99)
Storage: Western Digital - Blue 250GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive (Purchased For $80.00)
Video Card: Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1080 8GB WINDFORCE OC 8G Video Card (Purchased For $450.00)
Case: NZXT - S340 (Black/Blue) ATX Mid Tower Case (Purchased For $50.00)
Power Supply: Corsair - RMx 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (Purchased For $50.00)
Monitor: Lenovo - LI2364d 23.0" 1920x1080 75Hz Monitor (Purchased For $70.00)
Total: $1156.98
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-07-21 15:19 EDT-0400

Spoiler

Currently being torture tested (100% CPU/FPU/GPU/Memory) prior to delivery:

 

[EXCellR8]

you sure do like the Ryzens eh?

I've decided to not decommission my Skylake build after all... which means I'll need a new case for the 1500X. Anyone have any suggestions for a case that can fit an ATX board but that isn't as wide or tall as a mid tower? I also think that I'm going to air cool this one but only if I can't get my older Swift pump running again.

Doesn't look like Vega's going to be worth buying coming from Polaris, at least right off the bat, so I'll likely use the NITRO+ RX 480 again.

 

[IEC]

Ryzen 1600/X is what I use and recommend for gamers on a budget. The choice of the 1600 in the above build is what allowed them to step up to a GTX 1080. A GTX 1060 would have been required to meet budget with an Intel i7 build, which is a considerably weaker GPU for gaming. I did cut him a deal on the GPU given that I acquired a decent stock of cards inexpensively prior to the recent GPU scarcity (and concomitant price increases). It is below my replacement cost but it's for a friend, so he gets a favor.

Using a factory refurb'd power supply I got on discount a while back as well as a refurbished budget 75Hz monitor kept the build strictly under budget. Because of the 6c/12t processor, mild OC, GTX 1080, and quality PSU it should give plenty of room to grow into a nicer high refresh 1440p+ panel down the road. As well as be ready for a drop-in replacement with Ryzen 2/3 down the road should he need the additional horsepower.

A few comments about the build itself:
1) My first time using the newly revised for AM4 Scythe Mugen 5 HSF. It is a quality unit with an install similar to Noctua using mounting brackets on spacers that screw into the stock AM4 backplate. The heatsink itself loses out to the dual fan Scythe Fuma unit on performance (which is also $1-2 cheaper) but it comes with a better quality FDB fan and is more than adequate for air-cooling Ryzen. I stuck with a 3.7GHz OC @ +60mV offset for an effective vdroop voltage just under 1.3V for long-term use. It could go further I'm sure but no need to push the limits for now.
2) 3800MHz was not fully AIDA64 stable at +60mV. I try to stay under 1.3V for long-term usage with B350 motherboards as their VRMs/cooling isn't the best. Rather than raising voltage, I lowered clocks 100 MHz.

 

[funks]

If anybody in Norcal is looking for an




No selling outside the FS/T forum.


esquared
Anandtech Forum Director

 

[Reinvented]

Ryzen 1600/X is what I use and recommend for gamers on a budget. The choice of the 1600 in the above build is what allowed them to step up to a GTX 1080. A GTX 1060 would have been required to meet budget with an Intel i7 build, which is a considerably weaker GPU for gaming. I did cut him a deal on the GPU given that I acquired a decent stock of cards inexpensively prior to the recent GPU scarcity (and concomitant price increases). It is below my replacement cost but it's for a friend, so he gets a favor.

Using a factory refurb'd power supply I got on discount a while back as well as a refurbished budget 75Hz monitor kept the build strictly under budget. Because of the 6c/12t processor, mild OC, GTX 1080, and quality PSU it should give plenty of room to grow into a nicer high refresh 1440p+ panel down the road. As well as be ready for a drop-in replacement with Ryzen 2/3 down the road should he need the additional horsepower.

A few comments about the build itself:
1) My first time using the newly revised for AM4 Scythe Mugen 5 HSF. It is a quality unit with an install similar to Noctua using mounting brackets on spacers that screw into the stock AM4 backplate. The heatsink itself loses out to the dual fan Scythe Fuma unit on performance (which is also $1-2 cheaper) but it comes with a better quality FDB fan and is more than adequate for air-cooling Ryzen. I stuck with a 3.7GHz OC @ +60mV offset for an effective vdroop voltage just under 1.3V for long-term use. It could go further I'm sure but no need to push the limits for now.
2) 3800MHz was not fully AIDA64 stable at +60mV. I try to stay under 1.3V for long-term usage with B350 motherboards as their VRMs/cooling isn't the best. Rather than raising voltage, I lowered clocks 100 MHz.

There's some parts that I'd never go refurb on. How has your luck been? Ever had the warranty go out on it, or have to get it sent in during the 30 days or 1 year? I just recently picked up an RM650i just because I felt like I needed more stable voltages for my overclock. My cablemod cables are coming here soon from Performance-PCs.com. I am super excited to finally be done. If anything, I'd spend the money on 64GB's of memory and get the Trident RGB as the last final upgrade.

 

[IEC]

There's some parts that I'd never go refurb on. How has your luck been? Ever had the warranty go out on it, or have to get it sent in during the 30 days or 1 year? I just recently picked up an RM650i just because I felt like I needed more stable voltages for my overclock. My cablemod cables are coming here soon from Performance-PCs.com. I am super excited to finally be done. If anything, I'd spend the money on 64GB's of memory and get the Trident RGB as the last final upgrade.

Have had probably six factory refurbished power supplies in the past decade. All are still working today, varying lengths of service.

 

[anj2208]

Finally, 2933 on my Asrock Ab350 with 1.0.06a ver 3.0 , corsair LPX3000.
It was 2133 at launch then 2666 with 1.0.0.4 . Cheers

 

[TheGiant]

MS B350 Mortar
Ryzen 1600X
16GB G.SKILL DDR 3200

not able to run the memory at 3200 MHz but 2933 works rock stable

1600X at 3.9GHz

TEH value king- AMD did a great job here

 

[krumme]

Finally, 2933 on my Asrock Ab350 with 1.0.06a ver 3.0 , corsair LPX3000.
It was 2133 at launch then 2666 with 1.0.0.4 . Cheers

Please write settings!

 

[Eric1987]

You can try that now.
can you post CPU-Z (motherboard)

My motherboard is the Asus Prime X370

https://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/PRIME-X370-PRO/HelpDesk_Download/

 

[IndyColtsFan]

I am using UEFI rev. 3.0 on my X370 Taichi. The only problem I detected was that it briefly ran my CPU at 52C socket temp immediately after the flash. It returned to normal operation soon thereafter (after booting into OS) and has been behaving itself ever since.

I built a 1700X rig with a Taichi today and saw that exact problem as well - I thought for sure I bungled the HSF install but sure enough, once I booted into the OS, everything was fine and has been fine since. Weird.

 

[VirtualLarry]

I ordered some Team Vulcan 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4-3000 CAS16 16-18-18-36 1.35V RAM kits for my Ryzen 5 1600 CPUs. Hopefully, I can get them to work with UEFI 3.00 / AGESA 1.0.0.6a on my ASRock AB350M Pro4 boards.

I tried overclocking them tonight, on the stock Wraith Spire coolers, with Avexir DDR4-2400. I tried overclocking the CPU to 3.600Ghz, at 1.2500V, which worked, but temps got up to 90C on the rig with the RX 460 4GB Nitro card that was also crunching. I also tried OCing the RAM to DDR4-2667 CAS 16-16-16-16-36 at 1.300V. One rig errored and blue-screened, the other rig seemingly ran fine.

I was able to OC some Team DDR4-2400 to 2667 without too much trouble, on one of my Ryzen 5 1600 rigs.

I'm going to try to just run the Team DDR4-3000 at 2933 at first, but I'm debating if I can get them to OC to 3200. That would be sweet, if possible.

They have a 16GB kit, that is 2800 speed, at stock 1.200V, which seems like better-binned RAM to me, due to the lower voltage. But the price on that kit went back up, whereas the 3000 1.35V kit was on sale.

 

[IndyColtsFan]

So, I've been out of the overclocking game for quite some time - once I got the rig in my signature overclocked and stable, it was pretty much a situation where I saved the config and it has run that way since 2011. So, I wanted to provide my details and results before my questions.

Anyway, a few details and prelim results from my 1700X build. First, the details of the system: I'm using the Asrock X370 Taichi with the latest BIOS (which has AGESA 1.0.0.6a IIRC), 16 GB of Corsair DDR4-3000 Vengeance LPX RAM, a 6 GB EVGA 1060, and a MyDigitalSSD BPX NVMe 480 GB m.2 SSD as the boot drive. What makes this system unique is that I have it installed in the tiny Riotoro CR1080 case (I LOVE this case), so cooling can be tough since I can't go with a full tower cooler. To combat the heat, I have 2 Cooler Master 120 mm JetFlo fans as intakes on the front of the motherboard chamber, an 80 mm Coolmaster as an exhaust fan in the motherboard chamber, and a fairly small Noctua dual tower NH-D9L with a single 92 mm fan with their AM4 mounting kit (VERY nice, btw) and their thermal paste.

So far, here are the results so far:

MANUAL OC #1: I changed the clock to 3.8 Ghz and left all other values as their default. The system is stable and ran Prime95 blend for 20-30 minutes plus with CPU temp in the low 70s.
MANUAL OC #2: I changed the clock to 3.9 Ghz and left all other values the same. Prime95 ran for around 20 minutes before black screening, with temps remaining in the low 70s. Despite this, the system seems "game stable" but I'll keep testing.
MANUAL OC #3: I changed the clock to 4 Ghz and left all other settings the same. Boots into Windows and ran Prime95 for a couple minutes before black screening. Temps were again in the low to mid 70s. I tried using LLC at level 1 and voltage at 1.375 with same results. I have not yet tested to see if it is game stable.
P-STATE OC: I tried for 4 Ghz again using p-state overclocking. First, I reset my earlier manual settings back to defaults. On P0, I change the FID value (used A0) and left the other two values as default. I left the other p-states as default values. I was able to boot into Windows but again, P95 failed with the same low temps. I messed with CPU LLC, adjusting voltage settings (can't remember them all at this stage), and I saw similar results as to my manual overclocking attempts.

Given the small case I'm using and the cooling challenges of said case, I'm amazed I'm keeping the CPU in the low to mid 70s during P95 and I'm very pleased. I can actually feel fairly warm air being exhausted nicely from the 80 mm exhaust. I do feel that 4 Ghz is probably achievable so I ordered another Noctua 92 mm fan for push-pull to see if I can keep the CPU even cooler, and I have a low-profile 120mm Scythe which I may try to mount at the top for additional exhaust. Yeah, I know - the temps are pretty low under load as-is, so this may not get me much. The PSU is an older OCZ 600 watt modular StealthXtreme (or something like that) that I had in my parts stock - I remember it being a rebadged Forton or PC Power and Cooling which generally received high marks. I'm not opposed to replacing this PSU if necessary but both the 12 and 5 volt rails looked pretty solid to me in the system monitor.

So, my questions for you guys as I continue reading and researching:
1) What kind of voltage settings/config do you guys recommend I used? I was using CPU LLC Level 1 because the graphs seemed to indicate that this level kept Vcore the most stable over the course of higher CPU loading.
2) So many options on voltage parameters - offsets, manual, auto. What is considered best practice for these kinds of settings?
3) Any other tips are greatly appreciated.