Could it just be a reporting issue?How are you getting 2T command rate? I can't change the setting at all. It says 2T in the UEFI but CPU-z and Aida64 still read 1T.
That's what I think, because it makes it work.Could it just be a reporting issue?
I'm only 63 , but feel much younger
I'm waiting till mid July to order so I can build it by My B-day on the 24th
no doubt a Ryzen 7 1800X
probably a ASUS Prime X370-Pro , but maybe a ASUS ROG Crosshair VI Hero
2x8 3200-3600 DDR4 Ram , Depending on benches
CORSAIR Hydro Series H110 or more likely custom water
I'll decide on a case and water parts early July and go from there.
First build since my phenom II X6 ... looking forward to it
That's what I think, because it makes it work.
Yeaa that is a massive jump. At what settings? Soc and ram voltage?My Ram kit (G.SKILL TridentZ Series 32GB (2 x 16GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 3200 (PC4 25600) Intel Z170 Platform Desktop Memory Model F4-3200C16D-32GTZKW) could only run at 2400 from Taichi Bios 2.30 and prior. With bet Bios 2.34 I can finally get it running at 3200 though it is unstable (memtest fail and random reboots) but it runs perfectly fine at 3066.
Yeaa that is a massive jump. At what settings? Soc and ram voltage?
My initial review on my jump to ryzen from an intel i5-3470@ 3.8-4.0 ghz
Well I finally upgraded to the following..
Ryzen 5 1600 with Deepcool Gammaxx 400 cooler
Asrock X370 Killer SLI/AC board
32 gb DDR 2400 Gskill memory
WD Blue 256 GB M.2 drive
Reused a GTX 660 (for now) to either get a GTX 1070 on sale or a GTX 2060 depending on which will be better for 1440p gaming.
So far it's running super smooth at 3800mhz at 1.375 (stayed steady at 3.9 under 1.4 volts. Reach 4.0ghz at 1.40 volts but noticed artifacting. No hangups and no crashing. I didn't want to risk increasing the voltage over 1.4 but I have a feeling that may make 4.0 stable.)
Performance
In opening windows and browser loads and stuff.. very little performance gain if any.. HA!
But in playing games I seem a lot more snappy and not as much choppiness especially when I have 6 clients of the game loaded to box a group. (Some of you might wonder why.. well I play mmorpg's and sometimes I prefer to 6 box - well techically open 6 clients of the same game with 6 different characters). Now I can actually do 8 characters without any lag.
So multi tasking like raiding, 6 boxing and keeping browsers open to check forums and DKP on at the same time is a snap. Used to be a bit laggy with intel i5 with more than 5 clients. (I'm not making this up).
I haven't tested photoshop/ lightroom yet but with the new m.2 drive, I'll be able to assign my old HD as a scratch disk so I expect it to be faster.
Now the things I don't like.
AS Rock bios.. the board is good but the bios is terrible and I have to constantly reset cmos because its not liking higher memory speeds or timings.
Also it will not allow me to overclock in .25 multipliers successfully. It boots up at the lowest thing I input.. like say I put in 3925, it'll boot at 3900. I put in 3975 and it'll still boot at 3900 but 4000 it will boot at 4000.
P.S. why do they make the Reset CMOS jumper so small.. I dropped it and had to disassemble everything and look everywhere to find it again.
Anyways to the things I HATE HATE HATE
Windows 10.
It just sucks. I've been trying for 3 days to get windows 7 to install but since the motherboard has no usb 2.0 ports it seems I'm SoL. If anyone knows how to fix this.. please tell me.. I'll buy you a beer.
So.. overall so far..
I have a feeling I will like the system and keep it a long time especially after I put in a better video card and I'll probably make a full review then.
The solution to get windows 7 installed is simple. Look up Dism driver updates. Do a disc to thumb drive conversion. Find a tool to convert it to FAT32 without losing the data.
Keeping the computer updated is another pain altogether.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
I gave up during the Windows 8 hate days. Some of it founded, most not. People that haven't switched to windows 10 by this point just don't want to. They whether it's the interface or the "spyware" they don't want to run it.That's not even worth the effort since it's going to end up being EOL soon anyway. Not sure why people refuse to just upgrade, Windows 10 runs fine for a majority of people.
I gave up during the Windows 8 hate days. Some of it founded, most not. People that haven't switched to windows 10 by this point just don't want to. They whether it's the interface or the "spyware" they don't want to run it.
That's not even worth the effort since it's going to end up being EOL soon anyway. Not sure why people refuse to just upgrade, Windows 10 runs fine for a majority of people.
If you have trouble updating win7 you might try this http://www.wsusoffline.net/ I use it to keep win8.1 updated and I'll probably continue to use it if I upgrade because it's faster than waiting on windows updater.Its a pain in the ass to do anything with.
And strangely enough its running fast on my ryzen but it slowed my i5 system to a crawl which is why I never upgraded that to 10 even with the free windows 7 upgrade they had when it came out.
I have a F4-3600C16D-16GTZ kit, so I remove one stick and was able to boot to Windows, when I interchanged the sticks I was unable to boot to Windows.
If you tried each stick separately, in the same slot, at similar timings/speeds, and 1 of the 2 sticks will boot Windows fine, unfortunately you're correct in 1 stick is bad.
Maybe check the voltage and even raise it if you want to see if the bad one will boot into Windows if you want.
It doesn't happen very often. Rarely in fact, but a marginal part slips through testing then goes bad out in the 'wild'. It's a bummer considering where you are, and where it came from.Tried with 1.35V and no luck.
Actually, with the bad stick is not even booting to BIOS.
Just checked now that the MB yellow led relate to RAM is on and with code 0d.
Oh well, I am screwed. My sister bought these sticks in the US and I live in Brazil. It will be a pain to RMA.
This is too strange, a RAM that last just 3 hours. Bad quality control from G.Skill or a MB issue when trying to training the RAM?
Tried with 1.35V and no luck.
Actually, with the bad stick is not even booting to BIOS.
Just checked now that the MB yellow led relate to RAM is on and with code 0d.
...
This is too strange, a RAM that last just 3 hours. Bad quality control from G.Skill or a MB issue when trying to training the RAM?