AMD RYZEN Builders Thread

[Oddzz]

The new 1.0.0.6 BETA for the ASROCK TAICHI is quite pimp.

I'm finally able to run my RAM at 2800 MHZ (which is what it's rated at XMP profile wise)

Just did the following

1) Turned on XMP
2) Set Memory Voltage to 1.35
3) Set Memory Frequency to 2800 MT/s (it's finally an option now)
4) Turned off [MEMORY] Gear Down (with this in AUTO, or enabled - Command Rate is hard coded at 1T)
5) Set Command Rate to 2T.

Booted up without issues - I'm running Dual Rank 16-GB DIMMS (32 gigs total) - of -

[Patriot Viper Elite Series DD4 32GB (2 x 16 GB) 2800MHz Kit (Gray)]

Too bad I'm not running the Gigabyte AB350-Gaming 3 anymore, pretty sure with it's new 1.0.0.6 BETA (F7A), probably would worked the same way.

Nice to read that. I gambled a bit and bought the Patriot Viper Elite DDR4 16GB (2x8) 2800MHz kit before the rest of my system because I could get them for a fair price of €120 @Amazon.de. I'm glad that they are working as advertised on AM4 with the new AGESA.
I also took off the heatsink and figured out my RAM is Samsung D-Die similar to these here.

Now I just need to know how good the Asus Strix B350 motherboard will be before I pull the trigger and buy the rest for my R5 1600 system.

 

[Valantar]

So I'm writing this from my new Ryzen 1600X-based PC. Only, it's the same Windows install. As in, the originally Windows 7, upgraded in place (with apps, data and the works) to W10, windows installation that I've been using for ... oh, at least five years. Which just now took an extra minute to boot, and then promptly brushed off any problems due to an entirely new - ten years newer - CPU architecture, motherboard, PCIe bus, network controller, audio codec, RAM type, and so on and so on. Seriously, the only driver install that popped up when it booted onto the desktop was the prompt to get WiFi through my phone (as the PC is currently in pieces on the living room table). I'm floored by the flexibility and stability of Windows. This is f*cking amazing.

Now I just have to figure out why 8GB of my RAM is listed as "hardware reserved". Any ideas?

Other than that, the motherboard seems fine, if a little spartan in terms of BIOS features. Haven't explored it too much. Boot times are not bad at all - the first boot took perhaps 10 seconds before I got a BIOS splash screen, after that it's been 2-3 seconds to that from a full power off.

Next up: tearing the whole thing down, mounting it into my case, and assembling the water cooling loop. I'm only really dreading the last part

 

[EXCellR8]

assembling the cooling is the fun part!

 

[Uhtrinity]

So I'm writing this from my new Ryzen 1600X-based PC. Only, it's the same Windows install. As in, the originally Windows 7, upgraded in place (with apps, data and the works) to W10, windows installation that I've been using for ... oh, at least five years. Which just now took an extra minute to boot, and then promptly brushed off any problems due to an entirely new - ten years newer - CPU architecture, motherboard, PCIe bus, network controller, audio codec, RAM type, and so on and so on. Seriously, the only driver install that popped up when it booted onto the desktop was the prompt to get WiFi through my phone (as the PC is currently in pieces on the living room table). I'm floored by the flexibility and stability of Windows. This is f*cking amazing.

Now I just have to figure out why 8GB of my RAM is listed as "hardware reserved". Any ideas?

Other than that, the motherboard seems fine, if a little spartan in terms of BIOS features. Haven't explored it too much. Boot times are not bad at all - the first boot took perhaps 10 seconds before I got a BIOS splash screen, after that it's been 2-3 seconds to that from a full power off.

Next up: tearing the whole thing down, mounting it into my case, and assembling the water cooling loop. I'm only really dreading the last part

I did the same thing. I like how Windows 10 isn't dependent on the HDD controller. Makes making master images in my work environment as you don't have to have an image for every configuration short of software differences. Only issue, under system it doesn't show Windows as being activated, but it also doesn't say it isn't

As far as the hardware reserved thing: Under Windows 7 in msconfig there was an advanced option under boot, this allowed you to set how much memory is usable by the OS. The remaining amount was listed as system reserved. I bet it is the Windows 10 equivalent.

edit: In windows 10 it is under system configuration -> Boot ->advanced. You should be able to either set the memory to maximum or clear the memory amount so it will automatically use the max.

 

[bauerbrazil2014]

Well, for starters...update your bios. I just checked ASUS site, and 1002 is old. Newest is 1201, which has improved memory compatibility and AGESA update as well. This might actually solve your problem of it not booting into windows.

Updated to 1201 and now I can boot to Windows!

I will try some SW to check the sticks.

 

[Reinvented]

Updated to 1201 and now I can boot to Windows!

I will try some SW to check the sticks.

That's fantastic. I'm almost positive that both are working fine. It's usually pretty silly for memory to fail like that. That's why you have to be on top of bios updates since the platform is so new. It does happen, but the chance of that happening is so incredibly low.

 

[bauerbrazil2014]

That's fantastic. I'm almost positive that both are working fine. It's usually pretty silly for memory to fail like that. That's why you have to be on top of bios updates since the platform is so new. It does happen, but the chance of that happening is so incredibly low.

BIOS still recognize only 8GB but Windows and HWinfo64 show 16GB.

Any ideas?

 

[scannall]

BIOS still recognize only 8GB but Windows and HWinfo64 show 16GB.

Any ideas?

Perhaps your cooling is on too tight? That was a very common problem with X58 and X99. Google X58 missing ram....

 

[Reinvented]

BIOS still recognize only 8GB but Windows and HWinfo64 show 16GB.

Any ideas?

Is it a fresh windows install? There's another user up above who has 8GB as reserved. Make sure it's not doing that as well for you.

Bios only recognizes 8GB's? Reseat the dimm's and make sure you use the correct slots. Either A1 + B1, or A2 and B2.

 

[bauerbrazil2014]

Is it a fresh windows install? There's another user up above who has 8GB as reserved. Make sure it's not doing that as well for you.

Oh well, looks like is this problem.

Windows was installed when both sticks were good, it is appearing 8GB as "reserved for hardware".

It is showing on CPUZ and HWinfo64 as 16GB too. Do they get this info from Windows?

Should I try to read the sticks with Typhoon Burner or some other SW?

 

[Reinvented]

Oh well, looks like is this problem.

Windows was installed when both sticks were good, it is appearing 8GB as "reserved for hardware".

It is showing on CPUZ and HWinfo64 as 16GB too. Do they get this info from Windows?

Should I try to read the sticks with Typhoon Burner or some other SW?

If you don't know what you are doing, then no. I wouldn't. You could mess the stick up possibly, and then you'd have to RMA. Right now you need to exhaust all your options first, before messing with reprogramming, and before having to RMA. Your situation is very different, since it would cost as much to ship the memory. It might just be working fine. Reinstall windows, or correct it so that it shows properly. As I said up above, make sure the dimm's are in the correct channels as well.

Then proceed from there! Good luck!

 

[VirtualLarry]

Corsair H60i CLC watercooler. 120mm Rad.

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16835181030

Would this be enough to OC a Ryzen 1600 to 4.0Ghz (potentially)? Or should I go with a 240mm Rad version?

I was looking specifically at the H60i and the H110i (which Newegg lists as a 280mm Rad?), because Corsair's site says those two are out-of-the-box compatible with Ryzen and AM4.

I was also looking at getting a Phanteks P400(S?) in White with the Tempered Glass window side. Newegg on ebay has one for like $80 FS, and the listing seems to indicate that it includes the RGB LED strip included, as well as two SSD mounts.

I think that would look really sweet, but I don't know if the 280mm Rad on the H110i would fit in front. (Case is designed for CLC up to 360mm) But the Rad on the H110i seems wider than 120mm, so I'm not 100% sure that it would fit.

If it would, then I'll probably save up and get those in a couple of months, or sooner if I can sell some of my Gaming PCs.

 

[IEC]

new 1006 gigabyte beta bios on their site http://forum.gigabyte.us/thread/886/am4-beta-bios-thread

Not sure if I should be scared or happy

Considering their official BIOSes up to this point could charitably be called *beta*, I'll let others do the alpha testing for me.

 

[bauerbrazil2014]

If you don't know what you are doing, then no. I wouldn't. You could mess the stick up possibly, and then you'd have to RMA. Right now you need to exhaust all your options first, before messing with reprogramming, and before having to RMA. Your situation is very different, since it would cost as much to ship the memory. It might just be working fine. Reinstall windows, or correct it so that it shows properly. As I said up above, make sure the dimm's are in the correct channels as well.

Then proceed from there! Good luck!

My idea was just to read the SPD.

But looks like CPUZ already does this. I checked and both sticks looks good on CPUZ.

One stick not showing in the BIOS, do I need to clear CMOS after updating the BIOS?

 

[Reinvented]

Corsair H60i CLC watercooler. 120mm Rad.

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16835181030

Would this be enough to OC a Ryzen 1600 to 4.0Ghz (potentially)? Or should I go with a 240mm Rad version?

I was looking specifically at the H60i and the H110i (which Newegg lists as a 280mm Rad?), because Corsair's site says those two are out-of-the-box compatible with Ryzen and AM4.

I was also looking at getting a Phanteks P400(S?) in White with the Tempered Glass window side. Newegg on ebay has one for like $80 FS, and the listing seems to indicate that it includes the RGB LED strip included, as well as two SSD mounts.

I think that would look really sweet, but I don't know if the 280mm Rad on the H110i would fit in front. (Case is designed for CLC up to 360mm) But the Rad on the H110i seems wider than 120mm, so I'm not 100% sure that it would fit.

If it would, then I'll probably save up and get those in a couple of months, or sooner if I can sell some of my Gaming PCs.

A single fan radiator would not be suffice to cool a 1600 @ 4GHz. It also depends upon voltage used. You might not hit the lottery. It's always a gamble. I only recommend you use 240mm (2x120) or 280mm (2x140) when overclocking. I'm not sure what ambient is like where you are, but here in California, I'm coming in a bit under 50c loaded @ 4 GHz with 1.3v. And the 3 setups that I know work with Ryzen are the Corsair H60, H110i, and the H100i. Brackets are also easy to get if you don't have those 3 models, since Corsair was giving them out for free with a promo code.

 

[Reinvented]

My idea was just to read the SPD.

But looks like CPUZ already does this. I checked and both sticks looks good on CPUZ.

One stick not showing in the BIOS, do I need to clear CMOS after updating the BIOS?

Yes, ALWAYS. The first thing before flashing bios, you want to restore defaults, then flash, restore defaults again, and shut down, and then power back on, and verify defaults work. Then proceed into windows.

 

[Valantar]

Oh well, looks like is this problem.

Windows was installed when both sticks were good, it is appearing 8GB as "reserved for hardware".

It is showing on CPUZ and HWinfo64 as 16GB too. Do they get this info from Windows?

Should I try to read the sticks with Typhoon Burner or some other SW?

On my system, it looks like this is a BIOS thing. The BIOS also shows 8GB, but both sticks are recognized (I can check individual XMP profiles per slot and so on). In other words, the motherboard/BIOS is reserving 8GB for something, for some reason. I'll look into it as soon as I get up and running, but considering this is my first time in ten years to set up water cooling, it might take a while. Still, I wouldn't worry.

 

[ScottAD]

Corsair H60i CLC watercooler. 120mm Rad.

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16835181030

Would this be enough to OC a Ryzen 1600 to 4.0Ghz (potentially)? Or should I go with a 240mm Rad version?

I was looking specifically at the H60i and the H110i (which Newegg lists as a 280mm Rad?), because Corsair's site says those two are out-of-the-box compatible with Ryzen and AM4.

I was also looking at getting a Phanteks P400(S?) in White with the Tempered Glass window side. Newegg on ebay has one for like $80 FS, and the listing seems to indicate that it includes the RGB LED strip included, as well as two SSD mounts.

I think that would look really sweet, but I don't know if the 280mm Rad on the H110i would fit in front. (Case is designed for CLC up to 360mm) But the Rad on the H110i seems wider than 120mm, so I'm not 100% sure that it would fit.

If it would, then I'll probably save up and get those in a couple of months, or sooner if I can sell some of my Gaming PCs.

I built with the P400 and used a Kraken x61 up front. There is no clearance for a top mounted rad in that case just as an FYI.

If you are going to go for 4.0Ghz, get a 280mm rad or 360. The temp spikes when going beyond 3.9 on Ryzen are up there.

 

[bauerbrazil2014]

Yes, ALWAYS. The first thing before flashing bios, you want to restore defaults, then flash, restore defaults again, and shut down, and then power back on, and verify defaults work. Then proceed into windows.

Shutdown = shutdown power supply?

Did those steps but still 8GB on BIOS. Bad stick does not boot alone.

Do you know if AIDA, CPUZ and Hwinfo are "real time" or they get information from Windows???

Looks normal on all of them...

 

[VirtualLarry]

I built with the P400 and used a Kraken x61 up front. There is no clearance for a top mounted rad in that case just as an FYI.

If you are going to go for 4.0Ghz, get a 280mm rad or 360. The temp spikes when going beyond 3.9 on Ryzen are up there.

The 4Ghz comment was more of a hypothetical OC max, not that that is a realistic goal of mine. I would rather run 3.8Ghz @ 1.35V, if I can get away with that. Plus, I've never run WC before, but the CLCs seem easy enough to install.

Does the Kraken x61 have LED fans for the Rad, or the pump? I saw an NZXT ad on a YouTube vid, and it showed lights on the pump/heatplate. Wondering about getting RGB LED strips, or ... well, something to bling it out, with a tempered glass case.

Of course, I don't really need the bling, it would just be something cool to show my friends when they come over. Oohh, look, Ryzen!

Phanteks Eclipse P400 Series PH-EC416P_WT Glacier White Steel Side Window ATX Mid Tower Cases with 10 Color RGB Downlight

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811854034&ignorebbr=1

"I am running a Corsair H115i in mine (280mm radiator) mounted in the front with a pull configuration (fans are set to pull air in and are mounted to blow air towards my graphics card). Works well for me."

So, it looks like the P400 chassis does support a 280mm Rad, which means I could use an H110i, I think.

 

[DrMrLordX]

4) Turned off [MEMORY] Gear Down (with this in AUTO, or enabled - Command Rate is hard coded at 1T)

So that's it! Hmm, will have to try it myself.

 

[bauerbrazil2014]

Ugh. Have you tried it in an Intel system? Is that an option?



The usual complaint about AM4 boards is that some of them boot with 1.2v default no matter what you set in the UEFI or elsewhere. Though that would cause issues with both sticks.

Okay so here goes something completely different:

PUBLIC SERVICE ANNOUNCEMENT

There is a subtiming deep in the latest Taichi UEFI (and possibly on other boards) called TrdrdSc. It defaults to 1 on my board. Do not, under any circumstance, increase that subtiming! It killed my read, write, and copy bandwidth values. When experimenting with DDR4-3466, TrdrdSC of 1 produced ~54.6 GB/s read bandwidth. TrdrdSc of 3 produced something like 38.7 GB/s read bandwidth. Ouch! Do not want.

Increasing it doesn't seem to do much for stability at high clocks, either.

Trdrd and Twrrd are all messed up, example:

Good stick = 3
Bad stick = 15 (max value)

I can see the bad stick at BIOS Tool-> ASUS SPD.

I can boot to Windows with the good stick on all slots.

Man this is crazy.

 

[Reinvented]

Shutdown = shutdown power supply?

Did those steps but still 8GB on BIOS. Bad stick does not boot alone.

Do you know if AIDA, CPUZ and Hwinfo are "real time" or they get information from Windows???

Looks normal on all of them...

It doesn't matter how you shut down, as long as it shuts down and is off. AIDA reports back what it booted at. So, all the timings and subtimings you see below are what is programmed into the sticks to run at every level, including "overclocked". Standard speed for both Intel and AMD is 2133. The lowest speed possible for compatibility. And clicking only on 1 stick shows that 1 stick, not entire system memory of 16GB.

 

[ScottAD]

The 4Ghz comment was more of a hypothetical OC max, not that that is a realistic goal of mine. I would rather run 3.8Ghz @ 1.35V, if I can get away with that. Plus, I've never run WC before, but the CLCs seem easy enough to install.

Does the Kraken x61 have LED fans for the Rad, or the pump? I saw an NZXT ad on a YouTube vid, and it showed lights on the pump/heatplate. Wondering about getting RGB LED strips, or ... well, something to bling it out, with a tempered glass case.

Of course, I don't really need the bling, it would just be something cool to show my friends when they come over. Oohh, look, Ryzen!

Phanteks Eclipse P400 Series PH-EC416P_WT Glacier White Steel Side Window ATX Mid Tower Cases with 10 Color RGB Downlight

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811854034&ignorebbr=1

"I am running a Corsair H115i in mine (280mm radiator) mounted in the front with a pull configuration (fans are set to pull air in and are mounted to blow air towards my graphics card). Works well for me."

So, it looks like the P400 chassis does support a 280mm Rad, which means I could use an H110i, I think.

Phanteks includes 1 LED strip in the P400 that connects to their proprietary connector OR to onboard RGB solutions such as Mystic Light.

The Kraken x61 has RGB capability on the pump but it is not as fancy as the x62. Most of the vendors like Corsair or NZXT have RGB fans you can add to the rad. Ships with basic fans that are non-LED but the world is your oyster, rainbow it up!

 

[kush120]

Got a K7, The new F4D bios are great. I can finally do XMP and dont have to set the memory manually. Im at 3200mhz RAM with 14cas. Also able to do a dynamic voltage instead of constant and be completely stable.