AMD RYZEN Builders Thread

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DrMrLordX

Lifer
Apr 27, 2000
22,035
11,620
136
Trdrd and Twrrd are all messed up, example:

Good stick = 3
Bad stick = 15 (max value)

I can see the bad stick at BIOS Tool-> ASUS SPD.

I can boot to Windows with the good stick on all slots.

Man this is crazy.

Hmmm. Have you noticed any significant degradation in bandwidth or latency from increasing those subtimings?
 

ScottAD

Senior member
Jan 10, 2007
735
77
91
The 4Ghz comment was more of a hypothetical OC max, not that that is a realistic goal of mine. I would rather run 3.8Ghz @ 1.35V, if I can get away with that. Plus, I've never run WC before, but the CLCs seem easy enough to install.

Does the Kraken x61 have LED fans for the Rad, or the pump? I saw an NZXT ad on a YouTube vid, and it showed lights on the pump/heatplate. Wondering about getting RGB LED strips, or ... well, something to bling it out, with a tempered glass case.

Of course, I don't really need the bling, it would just be something cool to show my friends when they come over. Oohh, look, Ryzen!

Phanteks Eclipse P400 Series PH-EC416P_WT Glacier White Steel Side Window ATX Mid Tower Cases with 10 Color RGB Downlight

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811854034&ignorebbr=1

"I am running a Corsair H115i in mine (280mm radiator) mounted in the front with a pull configuration (fans are set to pull air in and are mounted to blow air towards my graphics card). Works well for me."

So, it looks like the P400 chassis does support a 280mm Rad, which means I could use an H110i, I think.

Just something to revisit because Computex is pumping out so much crap right now lol.

Phanteks announced their Halos fan frame. A mountable frame that you place on your 120 or 140 fan that adds ambient RGB.

Top row are black fan blades, bottom are white. Left half are their budget frame of plastic, right half is lux or aluminum brackets.
 
Feb 27, 2014
47
38
91
Hmmm. Have you noticed any significant degradation in bandwidth or latency from increasing those subtimings?

Ops, my bad, actually those DRAM timings are for Channel A and B, not for eack sitck, sorry.

The current situation is the following:
- BIOS only shows 8GB
- Asus SPD on BIOS shows both sticks with the same information!
- I can boot to Windows with only the good stick in all slot positions, even at 3466MHz
- I can boot to Windows with both sticks only at 2133MHz
- I cannot boot even to BIOS with only the bad stick
- AIDA, CPUZ and HWinfo shows both sticks on Windows
- Windows shows 16GB of RAM, but 8GB appears as "hardware reserved"

I sent an email to G.Skill and Asus about this, lets see if they will try to help.
 

DrMrLordX

Lifer
Apr 27, 2000
22,035
11,620
136
That's truly bizarre. I've never seen that happen before.

edit:

For those of you who are interested, thus far, I've gotten DDR4-3466 stable in pretty much everything including memory-intensive AVX workloads (y-cruncher, Prime95 Blend, etc). It wasn't exactly easy, and it did take 1.42v vDIMM to pull it off, but it works. I haven't tested it 24/7 yet but that can come later I guess. Too much long-term stress testing interferes with mining. But I digress.

In attempting to stabiize DDR4-3600, I have found that going from16-16-16-36 to18-18-18-40 caused the system to simply not boot. I am confused. Going to 18 CAS/CL wasn't the culprit (tried 18-16-16-36 without trouble) but that didn't provide any additional stability that I can tell. Messing with the primaries may not help here. It may come down to subtimings or something else.

Using 2T command rate made things *less* stable. Hmm.

I also tried 1.45v vDIMM independently of 18 CAS/CL but while that providd some additional stabiliy, it wasn't quite enough. It crashed while I was playing Dirty Bomb (a competitive match no less, oops!).
 
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Reinvented

Senior member
Oct 5, 2005
489
77
91
That's truly bizarre. I've never seen that happen before.

edit:

For those of you who are interested, thus far, I've gotten DDR4-3466 stable in pretty much everything including memory-intensive AVX workloads (y-cruncher, Prime95 Blend, etc). It wasn't exactly easy, and it did take 1.42v vDIMM to pull it off, but it works. I haven't tested it 24/7 yet but that can come later I guess. Too much long-term stress testing interferes with mining. But I digress.

In attempting to stabiize DDR4-3600, I have found that going from16-16-16-36 to18-18-18-40 caused the system to simply not boot. I am confused. Going to 18 CAS/CL wasn't the culprit (tried 18-16-16-36 without trouble) but that didn't provide any additional stability that I can tell. Messing with the primaries may not help here. It may come down to subtimings or something else.

Using 2T command rate made things *less* stable. Hmm.

I also tried 1.45v vDIMM independently of 18 CAS/CL but while that providd some additional stabiliy, it wasn't quite enough. It crashed while I was playing Dirty Bomb (a competitive match no less, oops!).

Try 19-19-19-38 @ 2T. See if you can boot. I unfortunately do not have 2T timings available to me, but supposedly that'll be loose enough to keep it stable. What other subtimings do you have? Or is that still on auto?
 

Valantar

Golden Member
Aug 26, 2014
1,792
508
136
So the water loop is complete, leak tested, filled, and sealed. Think I got most of the air out too. Man, that was a nerve wracking process. I mean, I was very thorough, but the play in my 45° fittings is kinda scary. Not to mention that some fittings are rather easy to unscrew when gripping the water lines. Oh well, it's all good. Even the Y-split for my drain port tucked away with relative ease. Very noticeably less flow going on with the whole loop hooked up compared to when I tested the pump out with just one rad connected, but it's probably sufficient. I did buy one of the cheapest pump+res combos out there, so that's to be expected. Pretty happy with the look of it, for being in a very sub-optimal case too.

(yeah, there are a few zip ties that weren't cleaned up before I took that. And yes, the flash makes it all look kinda crap. That's what you get when taking pictures of your PC at 11:30 at night.)

Now, the anti-kink springs are probably entirely unnecessary - the EK "zero maintenance" tubing has very thick rubber(?) walls, and I can't really see them kinking. Not to mention they were a dog to get onto the tubes (that fit could not possibly have been tighter!). But I'd rather have them than not.

All in all, it only took me two days to set up. Not too unhappy with that. Now it's on to formatting the OS drive, and getting everything set back up. Hopefully I'll get the "hardware reserved" RAM issue fixed too. Then, it's on to see how temperatures are. I'm optimistic that I might finally get to see that "quiet" part of the Define R4's design. That's not a phenomenon that occurs with a whiny Fury X and an ancient chipset that needs direct airflow from a case side panel fan to not overheat But no more! Replacing the main components of your PC with parts nine years newer is a rather good feeling
 

DrMrLordX

Lifer
Apr 27, 2000
22,035
11,620
136
Try 19-19-19-38 @ 2T. See if you can boot. I unfortunately do not have 2T timings available to me, but supposedly that'll be loose enough to keep it stable. What other subtimings do you have? Or is that still on auto?

I might try odd subtimings when I get the chance later today - assuming I get the chance at all.

I have all subtimings set to be more relaxed than those set by Ryzen Master @ DDR4-3200 14-14-14-28 with the exception of TrdrdSc which is still at 1. Perhaps I can export my UEFI settings and extract the data from there. Short of that, I'll have to write it all down. Or take lame cell phone pics of the screen.
 

Grep_Linux

Junior Member
Mar 15, 2017
16
10
41
So last night I get home and my computer won't boot, no lights on the board it looked as if it was unplugged (the gigabyte gaming 7 has a red power switch on the board that's usually lit), the psu seems to work (tried it in another computer) so that leaves ram/cpu/mobo I'm assuming it's not the ram since the board is unlit and not even trying to turn on but I'm unsure if that's indicative of a board or cpu failure. I could of sworn in a recent linus video he lit up a board without a cpu so I'm leaning towards board is there anything to suggest otherwise? I don't have a spare am4 cpu to try nor do I have a second am4 board so I'm kinda stuck as far as the ability to test either.
 

Reinvented

Senior member
Oct 5, 2005
489
77
91
So last night I get home and my computer won't boot, no lights on the board it looked as if it was unplugged (the gigabyte gaming 7 has a red power switch on the board that's usually lit), the psu seems to work (tried it in another computer) so that leaves ram/cpu/mobo I'm assuming it's not the ram since the board is unlit and not even trying to turn on but I'm unsure if that's indicative of a board or cpu failure. I could of sworn in a recent linus video he lit up a board without a cpu so I'm leaning towards board is there anything to suggest otherwise? I don't have a spare am4 cpu to try nor do I have a second am4 board so I'm kinda stuck as far as the ability to test either.

Take it out of the case, and start from there.
 

Grep_Linux

Junior Member
Mar 15, 2017
16
10
41
"Take it out of the case, and start from there."
Already done as I was checking power supplies and other setups. A different PSU won't work on it either.

I have no way of testing that ram, cpu or motherboard separately I was just hoping you guys would have some insight into which would be the culprit based on symptoms. Nothing looks damaged/burnt.
 

scannall

Golden Member
Jan 1, 2012
1,960
1,678
136
"Take it out of the case, and start from there."
Already done as I was checking power supplies and other setups. A different PSU won't work on it either.

I have no way of testing that ram, cpu or motherboard separately I was just hoping you guys would have some insight into which would be the culprit based on symptoms. Nothing looks damaged/burnt.
Pull the CMOS battery for an hour or so.
 

Reinvented

Senior member
Oct 5, 2005
489
77
91
"Take it out of the case, and start from there."
Already done as I was checking power supplies and other setups. A different PSU won't work on it either.

I have no way of testing that ram, cpu or motherboard separately I was just hoping you guys would have some insight into which would be the culprit based on symptoms. Nothing looks damaged/burnt.

Have you done the usual stuff such as clearing cmos and removing battery? You do have to have some power hooked up to it though to get cmos cleared, but that shouldn't be a problem if the PSU really is okay.

What's the specs on your machine? Were you overclocked?
 

Grep_Linux

Junior Member
Mar 15, 2017
16
10
41
Have you done the usual stuff such as clearing cmos and removing battery? You do have to have some power hooked up to it though to get cmos cleared, but that shouldn't be a problem if the PSU really is okay.

What's the specs on your machine? Were you overclocked?
1800x, Gigabyte gaming 7. No but the ram was in xmp (recent bios update circa 2 or 3 days ago) allowing the trident x 2x16 3000 to run at 2933. Yes, cleared CMOS via jumper, removed battery. I tested the PSU in another box and it worked but, to add just a shadow of a doubt the box i tested it in was 1x4 CPU power pin not 2x4/1x8 so it isn't a direct analog. I had another PSU that was powering my former 8350 that I gave to my daughter and tested that in the ryzen rig with no luck. I'm unsure of what preliminary checks the motherboard runs for the led/power buttons but even the power button that's on the motherboard is off. Last thing I did with the machine was power it down the night prior as I work long hours and night and saw no reason to leave it on, the machine was behaving fine before/during poweroff. If it was glitching or behaving weird I would at least have a clue to follow as it is, I'm stumped.


Edit: okay so after removing the cpu and putting it back in I now have a power light, I haven't attempted to boot as it's unhooked from... well everything but going to put it back together and try.

I tried both sticks of ram, in slot 2, both lit then tried both together and got a power light so that's encouraging, keeping my fingers crossed my wallet isn't going to be sad over this.

Edit Edit... it's running but seems stuck at 2133. Thanks for all your input I was losing hope.
 
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VirtualLarry

No Lifer
Aug 25, 2001
56,554
10,171
126
Hmm, finally got my ASRock AB350M Pro4 board, yesterday, so I built my Ryzen 5 1600 PC this morning.

I got Ryzen Master, CPU-Z, and OCCT installed (among others).

I was running CPU-Z, Ryzen Master, and then OCCT, and ran Linpack.

Temps in OCCT went up to 62C, but temps in Ryzen Master went up to 76C.

Is that bad, under 6-core load?

I didn't bottom-out the screws holding the stock heatsink on. Was I supposed to?

And, there was a spec of lint on the bottom of the paste on the heatsink, I tried to remove it with the tip of a screwdriver.

Maybe I should re-paste with some MX-4, and then re-attach, and screw every screw down as far as it will go into the backplate?

Edit: Oh, before testing, I downloaded BIOS 2.40 for my board, put it on a USB flash drive, and flashed the BIOS. Running Win10 Creator's Editon Pro 64-bit, and using a Gigabyte GTX 1050ti 4GB video card, at 4K UHD res. for the desktop.
 
Reactions: Drazick

ScottAD

Senior member
Jan 10, 2007
735
77
91
Hmm, finally got my ASRock AB350M Pro4 board, yesterday, so I built my Ryzen 5 1600 PC this morning.

I got Ryzen Master, CPU-Z, and OCCT installed (among others).

I was running CPU-Z, Ryzen Master, and then OCCT, and ran Linpack.

Temps in OCCT went up to 62C, but temps in Ryzen Master went up to 76C.

Is that bad, under 6-core load?

I didn't bottom-out the screws holding the stock heatsink on. Was I supposed to?

And, there was a spec of lint on the bottom of the paste on the heatsink, I tried to remove it with the tip of a screwdriver.

Maybe I should re-paste with some MX-4, and then re-attach, and screw every screw down as far as it will go into the backplate?

Edit: Oh, before testing, I downloaded BIOS 2.40 for my board, put it on a USB flash drive, and flashed the BIOS. Running Win10 Creator's Editon Pro 64-bit, and using a Gigabyte GTX 1050ti 4GB video card, at 4K UHD res. for the desktop.
Max under load is 95 before throttling happens. You're absolutely in the clear for stock Temps. IMHO I always repasted just because I like my product and have complete trust in it. Ryzen is a great thermal transferring CPU because of the TIM method on the IHS.

https://www.digitaltrends.com/computing/amd-ryzen-cpu-delidding-unnecessary/
 

VirtualLarry

No Lifer
Aug 25, 2001
56,554
10,171
126
Is 78C in Ryzen Master under load, too hot for a Ryzen 5 1600 CPU?

Edit: Make that 83C in Ryzen Master, after using 10 cores to crunch WCG in BOINC, and leaving two cores "free", but Task Manager shows nearly every core fully utilized.
 
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Reactions: Drazick

Valantar

Golden Member
Aug 26, 2014
1,792
508
136
Is 78C in Ryzen Master under load, too hot for a Ryzen 5 1600 CPU?
Can't tell you, as I've yet to break 50 degrees on mine. 18 minutes of OCCT and counting, holding a steady 3.7GHz all-core boost. Then again, 360mm of radiators and an idle GPU will do that for you Now to break out Furmark! Maybe I'll be forced to turn up my fans to something above minimum speed

As an FYI, I only tested the PC very briefly with a 212 Evo before setting up the water loop, but with that it idled in the BIOS at a reported ~50 degrees. No idea if that is accounting for the 20-degree offset or not, though.
 

Valantar

Golden Member
Aug 26, 2014
1,792
508
136
Hm. My system is behaving very, very oddly. Testing out the cooling system and running both OCCT (12 threads) and Furmark, the GPU refused to stay at 100% load. Power draw (at the wall, kill-a-watt) fluctuated between ... 260W and 310W-ish, which seems low for a 275W GPU plus a 95W CPU. Tried MSI Kombustor, and the same thing happened, only worse. This time, the GPU utilization measure (both in Crimson and Kombustor) constantly zigzagging between 0% load and 100%, never staying at any one level for any time. Power draw at the wall was steady around 215W. Meanwhile, FPS in Kombustor was rock steady, for some weird reason. The GPU clock never budged, mind you. Stopping OCCT immediately pegged the GPU at a constant 100% load. Any ideas what might be causing this? I'll be updating my BIOS now (haven't done so yet), mainly to see if it will give me back the 8GB of RAM it has "reserved" for something. It's almost as if it's treating the GPU as an iGPU with a fixed total power draw ...
 

coffeemonster

Senior member
Apr 18, 2015
241
87
101
Is 78C in Ryzen Master under load, too hot for a Ryzen 5 1600 CPU?
Ryzen Master always seems to read around 10 degrees hotter than HWmonitor for me also. I just ignore ryzen master's numbers for now. My 1600X peaks around 65c running x264 in handbrake
 

DrMrLordX

Lifer
Apr 27, 2000
22,035
11,620
136
Since at least one person asked me for timing/subtiming info, I've done my best while short on time to provide information about my subtimings for DDR4-3466:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/cjf7f314m2ne2m4/3466.BIN?dl=0

That's a .bin file of my UEFI settings on an X370 Taichi running UEFI rev 2.34 beta. Good luck parsing that, though if you have a Taichi or other ASRock board that uses the same file format, you might be able to read my subtimings using that file. User beware, my settings might not be good for your system if you actually try using them. For me it gets me full AVX stability with DDR4-3466 with the CPU @ 4 GHz. Also notable is that my system seems to like me using 1.4v vcore + Level 3 llc instead of 1.35v vcore + Level 1 llc when running certain applications like SuperPi on higher memory clocks, since the llc doesn't really seem to kick in when running single-threaded workloads. The lower vcore kills memory stability. Interesting.

According to Aida64, I get 68.7ns latency and 53167 MB/s read bandwidth with these settings.

I've tried basically the same timings at 3600 and have found it quite bootable, but not stable. Um yet.

Anyway if the .bin file isn't sufficient, I'll have to find some other way to record the info. It's a shame I can't export to raw text. Hey ASRock, there's a new feature for the UEFI! Get right on that.
 

VirtualLarry

No Lifer
Aug 25, 2001
56,554
10,171
126
Oh, and if you're having RAM issues (stability, booting, etc.) with a Ryzen rig, read the mobo manual carefully about the suggested RAM placement with one or two DIMMs.

On my ASRock AB350M Pro4 board, it called out A2 and B2, the second and fourth DIMM slot to use. So I did, and so far, no issues.

The RAM clock speed defaulted to 2133, but after I flashed the 2.40 BIOS and enabled my XMP 2.0 Profile 1, I got 2400. Note that I didn't try XMP with the shipping 2.10 UEFI.

Edit: Using my 16GB kit of Team Dark DDR4-2400 (2x8GB, black heatspreaders of the older style). I don't think that they sell this kit anymore. (Or I would buy another one, to have 32GB of RAM in this Ryzen rig.)
 
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EXCellR8

Diamond Member
Sep 1, 2010
3,982
839
136
so this afternoon marks the first time my build failed to POST in almost two weeks... shame, thought I was all set but I guess not. simple CMOS clear fixed whatever it was but I am disappoint.
 
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