Anybody know anything about cordless drills

[AnonymouseUser]

Milwaukee, surprisingly, didn't have very good battery life for Lith-Ion.

That's disappointing, to say the least. I no longer use cordless drills on a daily basis, and the last drill I bought (2006) was the Makita I linked above (I still use it, fwiw), so my experience is no longer up to date (though still valid, for the most part).

I read some more reviews about Milwaukee, and they are very mixed. It turns out Milwaukee was sold in 2005 to the Chinese company Techtronic Industries. Techtronic also owns Dirt Devil and Ryobi. I will no longer recommend Milwaukee tools.

 

[LikeLinus]

That's disappointing, to say the least. I no longer use cordless drills on a daily basis, and the last drill I bought (2006) was the Makita I linked above (I still use it, fwiw), so my experience is no longer up to date (though still valid, for the most part).

I read some more reviews about Milwaukee, and they are very mixed. It turns out Milwaukee was sold in 2005 to the Chinese company Techtronic Industries. Techtronic also owns Dirt Devil and Ryobi. I will no longer recommend Milwaukee tools.

I know, it's a shame these days what has happened to a lot of good tool companies. I have an awesome Milwaukee circular saw that I use occationally and it's great! But it does appear that Milwaukee may have gone downhill in quality.

I also hear the same thing about DeWalt though. They are more focused on the consumer market and their tools are no longer as professionally focused and high quality as they were for so many years.

 

[BigJ]

I know, it's a shame these days what has happened to a lot of good tool companies. I have an awesome Milwaukee circular saw that I use occationally and it's great! But it does appear that Milwaukee may have gone downhill in quality.

I also hear the same thing about DeWalt though. They are more focused on the consumer market and their tools are no longer as professionally focused and high quality as they were for so many years.

I've got both the Milwaukee M18 (Impact, Circular, Sawzall, Flashlight, Hammerdrill, Compact, Grinder) and Makita LXT (Compact Hammer, Impact, Reciprocating Saw, Flashlight, Grinder, Circular Saw) sets, with my father owning the DeWalt line (2 Hammers (Nano/Non), Compact, 2 Impacts (Nano/Non), Trim Saw, Circular Saw, Grinder, Reciprocating Saw).

In terms of battery life (3.0Ah batteries) and power doing a job, both the M18 and DeWalt Nano series outperform the LXT in my experience. The Makita LXT reciprocating saw is crap, the Milwaukee M18 is OK, and the DeWalt is my favorite out of the group (have a Miwaukee Sawzall for anything serious). I prefer the Milwaukee M18 6.5" circular saw out of the three companies. It's a tossup between the M18 Impact and the LXT Impact as my favorite, but the DeWalt is no slouch. I like the Makita Compact Hammer over the Milwaukee Compact Drill; I rarely use the Milwaukee Hammer Drill.

That said, my preference for lighter work (what I normally do) is by far the Makita LXT with 1.5Ah batteries.The ergonomics and weight on the drill/impact are simply amazing. If I need more power or am doing anything besides drilling/driving, I grab the Milwaukee 3.0Ah set.

If most major work is done, I opt for the Milwaukee M12 set (got the Drill, Screwdriver, Hackzall for $169 and the Impact free after MIR) for carrying around.

 

[jteef]

Makita LXT 18v lithium ion is what I recommend. Light weight and compact but can still twist your arm off. Batteries charge in 15 minutes or 30 minutes depending on which one you are charging. Amazom has great deals on these.

This +1000 i have this drill and it's amazing. battery lasts a long time and charges super quick. I only use it around the house, so I can't vouch for its ruggedness in a cow pasture, but it seems it would be as good as anything.

 

[memory]

I've got both the Milwaukee M18 (Impact, Circular, Sawzall, Flashlight, Hammerdrill, Compact, Grinder) and Makita LXT (Compact Hammer, Impact, Reciprocating Saw, Flashlight, Grinder, Circular Saw) sets, with my father owning the DeWalt line (2 Hammers (Nano/Non), Compact, 2 Impacts (Nano/Non), Trim Saw, Circular Saw, Grinder, Reciprocating Saw).

In terms of battery life (3.0Ah batteries) and power doing a job, both the M18 and DeWalt Nano series outperform the LXT in my experience. The Makita LXT reciprocating saw is crap, the Milwaukee M18 is OK, and the DeWalt is my favorite out of the group (have a Miwaukee Sawzall for anything serious). I prefer the Milwaukee M18 6.5" circular saw out of the three companies. It's a tossup between the M18 Impact and the LXT Impact as my favorite, but the DeWalt is no slouch. I like the Makita Compact Hammer over the Milwaukee Compact Drill; I rarely use the Milwaukee Hammer Drill.

That said, my preference for lighter work (what I normally do) is by far the Makita LXT with 1.5Ah batteries.The ergonomics and weight on the drill/impact are simply amazing. If I need more power or am doing anything besides drilling/driving, I grab the Milwaukee 3.0Ah set.

If most major work is done, I opt for the Milwaukee M12 set (got the Drill, Screwdriver, Hackzall for $169 and the Impact free after MIR) for carrying around.

What kind of work do you normally do? When I use it in the winter time, I will be mainly drilling through boards and 4x4(sometimes thicker) posts.

I am assuming the M12 set is 12 volt? If so, why would you chose a 12 volt over an 18 volt?

Right now I am kind of leaning towards the Makita.

 

[BigJ]

What kind of work do you normally do? When I use it in the winter time, I will be mainly drilling through boards and 4x4(sometimes thicker) posts.

I am assuming the M12 set is 12 volt? If so, why would you chose a 12 volt over an 18 volt?

Right now I am kind of leaning towards the Makita.

Electrical and general construction.

I'd say your best bet sub $200 if you're leaning towards the Makita would be the LCT200W (or comparable models). On-sale, you can get it for about $200 and it comes with a Compact Drill/Driver + Impact Driver, 2 compact batteries, softcase, and charger. If you carry the case around, I'd say invest $20 or so into a Makita hardcase off of eBay. The case will get beat to hell outside on a farm because it's fabric.

The alternative would be the Milwaukee 2691-22. It comes with the Compact Drill, Impact, 2 compact batteries, hardcase, and charger.

The reason I use the M12 set is that it's as light as a feather and is damn small. I don't need to use an 18v drill when putting in receptacles, devices, fixtures, short self-tappers, etc. If I do run into a problem where I need more torque, the M12 impact driver has 800+in/lbs.

My question is are you drilling through or driving into these boards/posts? An impact driver is far superior to a normal drill/driver for driving, with the exception of not having a clutch.

 

[Caveman]

So... Hammer drill is for concrete drilling...

Impact drill is for??? Do people use these for driving wood screws or sockets to tighten nuts via impact?

Does anyone use an impact driver to drill pilots for wood screws?

 

[BigJ]

So... Hammer drill is for concrete drilling...

Impact drill is for??? Do people use these for driving wood screws or sockets to tighten nuts via impact?

Does anyone use an impact driver to drill pilots for wood screws?

You can drill with an impact as long as the bit has a 1/4" hex shank. Don't know if I'd recommend it for drilling pilot holes. Spme people think you can use one tool for every job, but every tool has its specific application. I've used an impact driver with a spade bit on occassion, but if I'm using a holesaw or step-bit, I use either a corded drill or powerful cordless drill on low and with oil if doing metal.

Typically, I use the Impact Driver when dealing with longer screws or bolts with hex heads or square drive (Robertson). As long as you apply proper pressure and are driving straight, you won't usually strip a Philips head screw. Since an impact driver doesn't have a clutch, you can overdrive and damage the material if it's delicate material/finish work.

Also, make sure you use bits specifically designed for the impact driver. The impact bits are designed softer so they won't shatter under the tremendous amount of torque you're applying.

 

[LikeLinus]

So... Hammer drill is for concrete drilling...

Impact drill is for??? Do people use these for driving wood screws or sockets to tighten nuts via impact?

Does anyone use an impact driver to drill pilots for wood screws?

Nope, that is what the drill is for. Impact driver is one of the worst tools to use with a drill bit. An impact driver puts more stress on drill bits and driver bits than a traditional drill-driver does. It would break bits. That's why a nice combo set is great. It's great to be able to drill pilots and then drive the screws without changing bits.

 

[memory]

Electrical and general construction.

I'd say your best bet sub $200 if you're leaning towards the Makita would be the LCT200W (or comparable models). On-sale, you can get it for about $200 and it comes with a Compact Drill/Driver + Impact Driver, 2 compact batteries, softcase, and charger. If you carry the case around, I'd say invest $20 or so into a Makita hardcase off of eBay. The case will get beat to hell outside on a farm because it's fabric.

The alternative would be the Milwaukee 2691-22. It comes with the Compact Drill, Impact, 2 compact batteries, hardcase, and charger.

The reason I use the M12 set is that it's as light as a feather and is damn small. I don't need to use an 18v drill when putting in receptacles, devices, fixtures, short self-tappers, etc. If I do run into a problem where I need more torque, the M12 impact driver has 800+in/lbs.

My question is are you drilling through or driving into these boards/posts? An impact driver is far superior to a normal drill/driver for driving, with the exception of not having a clutch.

I have been looking on ebay and found the Makita LXT hammer drill for $200 and it comes with the hard case, charger, and 2 batteries. I wouldn't mind having the impact driver but that is not a must have, I am not sure how much I would use it. I am not to worried about the case since I never use it anyways. But if I did use the case, I would want the soft case so I could put a bunch of other tools in it like hammer, wrenches, hack saw, and some other stuff. Can't really do that with a hard case.

I am drilling through the boards and posts and use a 3/8 threaded rod to hold them together.

 

[Vette73]

I've been looking for a good drill for a while. i found this one and it was the best all round drill I could find.
The Hitachi DS18DSAL is what I got. Its Li-ion battery powered, 18v, and light with plenty of power. Comes with 2 1.5Ah batteries. Good power to weight ratio. They also make 3Ah batteries but add more weight.

I bought it when it was on-sale for $99 it was $90 with 10% coupon at lowes at the time.

http://www.amazon.com/Hitachi-DS18DS.../dp/B001N2NTEI

Amazon had it for $103 recently as well. 2 year warranty on the batteries and lifetime on the drill.

I agree dewalt has really dropped in quality. Their Li-ion setup starts with a 1.1Ah battery.

 

[memory]

I am really considering this drill:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Makita-BHP454-1...t-/120664359673?pt=Drills&hash=item1c182802f9

Although it kind of seems to good to be true. Most of the others on there just like that one are going for $300 or more.

Question about the batteries in general. This drill or anything cordless we have does not get used every day. It probably sits more than it gets used. Is it better to keep the batteries plugged into the charger when they are not in use?

 

[BigJ]

I am really considering this drill:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Makita-BHP454-1...t-/120664359673?pt=Drills&hash=item1c182802f9

Although it kind of seems to good to be true. Most of the others on there just like that one are going for $300 or more.

Question about the batteries in general. This drill or anything cordless we have does not get used every day. It probably sits more than it gets used. Is it better to keep the batteries plugged into the charger when they are not in use?

Description
Makita BHP454 Factory-Reconditioned

If you don't mind reconditioned (I bought my Makita LXT407 kit reconned and it still works like a charm), Toolking is a great place to buy from:
http://www.toolking.com/makita-bhp4...-18v-li-ion-1-2-inch-2-speed-hammer-drill-kit

With the lithium ion batteries/chargers it doesn't matter. The batteries will hold a decent charge for months at a time in my experience. The chargers are actually pretty advanced compared to their previous models, so you don't have to worry about ruining the batteries with most manufacturers.

To see a comparison between the BHP454 and Dewalt DCD950, you can take a look at a video here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jKZfkNYxm5E&feature=related

 

[BoomerD]

Aren't they all made in China now?

Indeed they are...in fact, many of them are made in the same factory...I don't have the link anymore, but a few years ago, I read a piece about the factories that now make cordless tools. There were 3-4 companies making all the cordless tools for the various companies nowadays. Much like PSU's, the premium brands roll off the same assembly lines as the crap brands...just some different components...and of course, different colored housings.

DeWalt is still one of the better brands, as are Makita and Bosch. Porter-Cable is still better than Black & Decker, Ryobi, Hitachi, and the other low-end brands...but is a far cry from the quality that Porter-Cable was always know for having.

 

[Vette73]

Question about the batteries in general. This drill or anything cordless we have does not get used every day. It probably sits more than it gets used. Is it better to keep the batteries plugged into the charger when they are not in use?

If that is the case get one with Li-Ion batteries. Charge them to full and then remove from charger. Even after a couple months they should still have enough power to work. Ni-Cads do not seem to hold their charge very long from exp. Li-Ion was one of my MUST haves when I got my drill, a Hitachi DS18DSAL. I used someone elses Li-Ion drill and that was great.

Never leave a battery in a charger. I have seen even the "smart" chargers fail and either over charge or not charge enough.

 

[memory]

I missed that part about being reconditioned, seen the part that said brand new in original packaging so I thought it was a brand new one and not reconditioned. So that's why it is cheaper. Is reconditioned models the same as buying a new model? Is there any reason to stay away from recon models?

 

[BoomerD]

I missed that part about being reconditioned, seen the part that said brand new in original packaging so I thought it was a brand new one and not reconditioned. So that's why it is cheaper. Is reconditioned models the same as buying a new model? Is there any reason to stay away from recon models?

Depends on who's doing the reconditioning. If it's done at the factory, they're usually just fine...if they're done by "Joe Blow's Reconditioning Service," they're usually risky buys. Even "Factory Reconditioned" doesn't always mean they were done by the original manufacturer...gotta be wary.

 

[Vette73]

Indeed they are...in fact, many of them are made in the same factory...I don't have the link anymore, but a few years ago, I read a piece about the factories that now make cordless tools. There were 3-4 companies making all the cordless tools for the various companies nowadays. Much like PSU's, the premium brands roll off the same assembly lines as the crap brands...just some different components...and of course, different colored housings.

DeWalt is still one of the better brands, as are Makita and Bosch. Porter-Cable is still better than Black & Decker, Ryobi, Hitachi, and the other low-end brands...but is a far cry from the quality that Porter-Cable was always know for having.

I disagree on the Dewalt and Hitachi.

Dewalt has dropped a lot. Their Li-Ion line has a lot of weak spots.
Hitachia has a lot of higher end stuff. Problem is Hitachia can be a Pro level tool or a B/D level.
B/D has 3 lines. Dewalt, PC, and B/D. They have cheapened out the PC line now and its just a hair above B/D IMO. Dewalt has really dropped the ball, esp on the newwer Li-Ion lines.
Hitachia's problem is they have all their tools under one name. So the great has the same name and color as the B/D fighter tools.

 

[Saint Nick]

The only thing I know about cordless drills is that pretty much everyone I have ever used, sucked major wind.

 

[Vette73]

The only thing I know about cordless drills is that pretty much everyone I have ever used, sucked major wind.

Get a new Li-Ion one that has a good power ratio (450 torque or greater) and you will change you mind.

I do wood working and home repairs and I only had wired drills. My new Li-Ion one with 460tq does everything I need and holds power long enough to do the job.

 

[Rubycon]

Indeed they are...in fact, many of them are made in the same factory...I don't have the link anymore, but a few years ago, I read a piece about the factories that now make cordless tools. There were 3-4 companies making all the cordless tools for the various companies nowadays. Much like PSU's, the premium brands roll off the same assembly lines as the crap brands...just some different components...and of course, different colored housings.

DeWalt is still one of the better brands, as are Makita and Bosch. Porter-Cable is still better than Black & Decker, Ryobi, Hitachi, and the other low-end brands...but is a far cry from the quality that Porter-Cable was always know for having.

Festool is nice.
I hear AEG went Chinese too.

 

[iGas]

What kind of work do you normally do? When I use it in the winter time, I will be mainly drilling through boards and 4x4(sometimes thicker) posts.

I am assuming the M12 set is 12 volt? If so, why would you chose a 12 volt over an 18 volt?

Right now I am kind of leaning towards the Makita.

12V impact driver is okay for most light duty works, but drilling should be left for the 18~36V (unless you have only 1 or 2 wood holes to drill then 12V is fine).

The little 10.8V Bosch impact is my favorite driver for sheet metal work because it is small & light which is great for over head & tight corner works. And, the 18V Makita impacts come out to play went I need continuous work and driving long screws & lag bolts.

For 18V Milwaukees and Dewalts can't hold up a candle to my Makita XLT (there are several models of XLT drills) when we holesaws 1 1/4"~1 1/2" hole through schedule 40 black iron pipes all day long and heavy & bulky drills aren't a welcome in tight places and above head work. Infact the Makita XLT & 3Ah batteries would deliver roughly 8~9 holes on a charge, while the heavy & bulky Milwaukee 3~3.3Ah deliver a paltry 6 holes average per charge, and Dewalt 3 Ah get rougly 7 per charge. Therefore all of my coworkers tend to ask to borrow my drills when it time for them to drill holes in steel pipes.

I have to admit that the Makita sawall is not anywhere near the power of the Milwalkee & Dewalt, but I have to say that Makita 18V circular saw is my favorite saw to drag around for cutting wood or steel.

IMHO, it make absolute sense to get a 18V drill & impact driver combo, because the impact will be the one tool that you reach for 80~90% of the time for putting screws in and the drill is purely for drilling holes (in a pinch the impact can be use to drill pilot holes with hex shank bits but it is a slow process).

18V dedicated hammer drills are great for over head drilling in concrete (1/2" or 5/8" holes for steel anchor inserts), but I have to admit that the 36V is a much better tool for that.

 

[iGas]

Festool is nice.
I hear AEG went Chinese too.

Some of the Festool are okay to use but their cordless drills & hammer drills as well as Hilti & Bosch cordless are absolutely garbage (we have a couple set of each to tried out because the tools reps wanted to see if we like it before the boss buy them).

 

[iGas]

I've got both the Milwaukee M18 (Impact, Circular, Sawzall, Flashlight, Hammerdrill, Compact, Grinder) and Makita LXT (Compact Hammer, Impact, Reciprocating Saw, Flashlight, Grinder, Circular Saw) sets, with my father owning the DeWalt line (2 Hammers (Nano/Non), Compact, 2 Impacts (Nano/Non), Trim Saw, Circular Saw, Grinder, Reciprocating Saw).

In terms of battery life (3.0Ah batteries) and power doing a job, both the M18 and DeWalt Nano series outperform the LXT in my experience. The Makita LXT reciprocating saw is crap, the Milwaukee M18 is OK, and the DeWalt is my favorite out of the group (have a Miwaukee Sawzall for anything serious). I prefer the Milwaukee M18 6.5" circular saw out of the three companies. It's a tossup between the M18 Impact and the LXT Impact as my favorite, but the DeWalt is no slouch. I like the Makita Compact Hammer over the Milwaukee Compact Drill; I rarely use the Milwaukee Hammer Drill.

That said, my preference for lighter work (what I normally do) is by far the Makita LXT with 1.5Ah batteries.The ergonomics and weight on the drill/impact are simply amazing. If I need more power or am doing anything besides drilling/driving, I grab the Milwaukee 3.0Ah set.

If most major work is done, I opt for the Milwaukee M12 set (got the Drill, Screwdriver, Hackzall for $169 and the Impact free after MIR) for carrying around.

IMHO, the blade make the saw. Milwaukee may have better blade with the kit from the manufacture. I prefer Freud therefore original manufacture saw blades become frisbee or just sit on my shelf collecting dust till I throw them out.

 

[qliveur]

<snip>
the best all around drill is this Makita
<snip>

I bought a Dewalt 12v driver/drill 15 years ago and the chuck fell apart almost immediately. Since then I've gone with Makita and I've never regretted it. I bought the model mentioned above when Amazon had it on sale with a free battery thrown in for less money than I paid for the Dewalt and its freaking awesome. Recommended.