you are a mod here now?
Let me know when (if?) you add value to this thread. Until then, consider yourself ignored.
I don't know about the graphics card's color adjustment holding since I have no experience with it, but I don't use any software. I had windows apply a profile. When I log in, it takes about 2 seconds and the color adjustment kicks in (it loads the profile at startup). No extra software needed.
You are talking about this correct? http://windows.microsoft.com/en-US/windows7/Calibrate-your-display
All this time I have been using hardware calibration via an X-Rite sensor... I didn't like using their color calibration software because it would go buggy on me sometimes, like after playing a movie or exiting a game. But if it's via Windows itself, it seems like it's worth a shot. Thanks for the info!
I hadn't thought of that before. I tried X-Rite's software calibration once and gave up, but you are talking about CCC or something? I am not at my regular PC right now so I can't check, but if there's a way to save a color preset (so that if you run a program that changes it, you can change it back) that'd be awesome.
First of all, ask the OP if you want affirmation that it's using the LG LM270WQ1. Secondly, you're smoking crack if you think they would sell 100% perfect panels that would otherwise go into far more profitable monitors like the Apple CinemaDisplays. These are the imperfect models that normally get sold in developing countries or at least non-U.S. markets. This kind of stuff happens all the time. Like with Taiyo Yuden DVD-Rs, you could get "deals" on buying the lesser-quality stuff that was intended for Mexico, and less scrupulous sellers would sell those lesser-quality blanks as if they were U.S.-quality blanks.
You are talking about this correct? http://windows.microsoft.com/en-US/w...e-your-display
All this time I have been using hardware calibration via an X-Rite sensor... I didn't like using their color calibration software because it would go buggy on me sometimes, like after playing a movie or exiting a game. But if it's via Windows itself, it seems like it's worth a shot. Thanks for the info!
If you run an AMD card, you can force the colour profiles through using Powerstrip, which will bypass the Windows colour management and write the colour corrections directly to your video card.
It will still happen when you boot since Powerstrip hasn't loaded yet. Once Powerstrip loads, it will override any windows (or any other color management program for that matter) and write the calibrated colours to the video card directly.Brilliant! I was not aware of this. So no 2 seconds of uncalibration when booting up?
Close. Use the sensor to make an ICC profile, then install the profile and have windows load it on startup.
I have my Catleap calibrated using a hardware calibrator (i1d2). It looks decent, but you lose some contrast when doing so.
I have read that they use "A-" panels as opposed to the A/A+ that Apple and Dell use. This was from a manufacturer's site. I dun remember where.
The Windows calibration is no different from the standard windows, just using some other calibration technique. You still lose the colour profile when you go through games and such.
If you run an AMD card, you can force the colour profiles through using Powerstrip, which will bypass the Windows colour management and write the colour corrections directly to your video card.
I decided it was time for an upgrade and purchased the
Achieva ShiMian QH270-Lite version of this monitor and a sapphire 7850 to go along with it. I think the single 7850 should satisfy me considering I'm moving up from a 4890 at 1080p. I don't spend much time gaming anymore, but looking forward to finally trying out skyrim.
My monitor has arrived! Ordered tuesday evening and delivered thursday afternoon, can't beat that. I ordered from ta_planet. The monitor was shipped with no extra protection. Just the box which holds the monitor sandwiched between two pieces of styrofoam. The monitor arrived in perfect physical condition. There was a note which read "not a pixel perfect, sorry " , however after a couple hours of use I still have not been able to locate any dead or stuck pixels. Picture is amazing. Definitely felt like a gamble placing the order, but at $323 shipped I couldn't resist and am very pleased with the result!
My monitor has arrived! Ordered tuesday evening and delivered thursday afternoon, can't beat that. I ordered from ta_planet. The monitor was shipped with no extra protection. Just the box which holds the monitor sandwiched between two pieces of styrofoam. The monitor arrived in perfect physical condition. There was a note which read "not a pixel perfect, sorry " , however after a couple hours of use I still have not been able to locate any dead or stuck pixels. Picture is amazing. Definitely felt like a gamble placing the order, but at $323 shipped I couldn't resist and am very pleased with the result!
Nice, did you have any issues with the power cable? From what I understand it's a universal power brick (120V or 240V) but you need to supply your own monitor cable for the brick for 120V. Did you do that, or did you just use what came in the box? (I am assuming you are in a 120V country; if not please let me know thanks!)
After Gloomy's reassuring posts and some other research I dug up, I decided to get a panel too. I have discounts and credits so that the actual cost to me is less than $285 for an Achieva Shimian. I would have gone with the Catleap except that I don't care about overclocking, and the Shimian was a little cheaper.
Also, kudos to Zanovar for apologizing over PM for rudeness earlier in this thread.
no prob blastingcap,i was out of order
That's fine, I'm excited about these deals too! I will let you all know how my Achieva Shimian works out when I get it. With some software calibration I hope to get it to be a $280-something version of the $999 Apple CinemaDisplay!
I am on 120v, used the power cord that was powering my old hp monitor and it had zero issues.Nice, did you have any issues with the power cable? From what I understand it's a universal power brick (120V or 240V) but you need to supply your own monitor cable for the brick for 120V. Did you do that, or did you just use what came in the box? (I am assuming you are in a 120V country; if not please let me know thanks!)