Anyone else get a Catleap?

[Viper GTS]

viper, why are you unscrewing the back covers off? Nice shot of the LG info for the panel, looks legit.

Because they're being VESA mounted on this arm in portrait:

http://www.amazon.com/Ergotron-Tripl...dp/B000E9VF1U/

Viper GTS

 

[Destiny]

Got my beauty in, took 3 business days total for shipping, so color me impressed. Came with everything I needed in the box; power brick (Korean plug, but green threw in an adapter; I'm using my Westy's plug though) and DL DVI cord. No scratches, no problems with shipping.

Zero dead pixels, very nice color uniformity and VERY little backlight bleed (bottom right, doesn't extend far.

Very happy, need to test it more but it's wifey's birthday. Looking forward to some Skyrim and BF3 on this

ALSO: Holy shit screen space, definitely an upgrade over my 1080P 37" Westy.

Congrats! Welcome to the WQHD club!

Just giving you a fair warning... your Nvidia GTX 580 may barely able to handle respectable frame rates for BF3 on ultra 2560s1440... so if you are flying your jet in 64player Caspian Border = I may have a chance against you in the skies...
http://www.anandtech.com/show/5818/nvidia-geforce-gtx-670-review-feat-evga/11

 

[Destiny]

viper, why are you unscrewing the back covers off? Nice shot of the LG info for the panel, looks legit.

These are other Korean brands known as POTALION and not the Catleaps...

 

[BababooeyHTJ]

Ahh you were asking about the transformer, not the cable. Yes the cables you have all over the place are just fine. I did think it a bit odd that you were asking that, but ignored the transformer part.

They ship with universal voltage power supplies and adapters (albeit ungrounded) to get into US outlets.

I would just use the cables you have around.

Viper GTS

A lot of them ship with 240v power supplies. My Acheva shipped with a 240v supply and when plugged into a standard 120v outlet it ran hotter than the 120-240v supply that came with my catleap.

There are reports of the 240v supplies crapping out over time.

 

[Anubis]

Because they're being VESA mounted on this arm in portrait:

http://www.amazon.com/Ergotron-Tripl...dp/B000E9VF1U/

Viper GTS

you have to remove the back for that? it looks like the holes are there

 

[Viper GTS]

A lot of them ship with 240v power supplies. My Acheva shipped with a 240v supply and when plugged into a standard 120v outlet it ran hotter than the 120-240v supply that came with my catleap.

There are reports of the 240v supplies crapping out over time.

The bricks with the Potalion are marked 110-240. They seem to work fine at 110, but as always YMMV.

Got two out of the three stands removed and all three VESA mounted/nVidia Surround setup. Ignore the alignment issues and the stand sticking out of the third, that will be corrected but it's 10 PM and hot as hell here so I'm tired of this game.

All three work and there are no readily apparent pixel issues though I have not looked very closely or with color patterns yet. Nothing glaring, let's put it that way.

Backlights are definitely the weakness on these, turn off the signal and there's leakage all over the place. I suppose this is acceptable at this price point, but if I could find a way to resolve these issues I would do it. Obviously I'm not scared to pull it apart so we shall see.

UPDATE:

Similar thread here has pictures and guide on how to potentially reduce backlight bleed:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1270861/potalion-2710qw-monitor-club/130

Seems they used the bare minimum count of screws to hold the backlight to the LCD panel. If someone can identify exactly what the screws are I'll order a bag of them and fully populate all the holes on all three.

An issue I ran into:

The VESA mounting holes (M4, 0.70 pitch) are VERY shallow. The screws that came with my Ergotron arm were far too long, I had to make a trip to Lowe's to pick up a variety of M4 machine screws. The shortest I could find were still a little too long (10 mm). Maybe an 8 mm or so would have been perfect. Two washers fixed that though. If you've used one of these arms you'll know there is a 1" or so spacer that you can use to push the display further from the VESA plate. I used that on the middle one (much like the 30" was previously) with 20 mm machine screws.

For anyone wondering they are standard 100 mm VESA.

Viper GTS

 

[Viper GTS]

you have to remove the back for that? it looks like the holes are there

The holes are right there, yes. The issue is the big fat stand sticking out of the 'bottom' of the display. To do three in portrait they need to go, which requires surgery to get at the screws.

Viper GTS

 

[Destiny]

Just drooled all over my keyboard...:wub: :awe:

 

[tviceman]

The bricks with the Potalion are marked 110-240. They seem to work fine at 110, but as always YMMV.

Got two out of the three stands removed and all three VESA mounted/nVidia Surround setup. Ignore the alignment issues and the stand sticking out of the third, that will be corrected but it's 10 PM and hot as hell here so I'm tired of this game.

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That is a kick ass setup, but those bezels would ruin the experience for me.

 

[Subyman]

Also be sure to check the monitors for functionality before opening them. I've heard issues with people having trouble returning DOA monitors because they attached a VESA mount before testing them.

 

[KingFatty]

Good to hear about the VESA mounting.

Also, a dremel tool comes in handy when things don't fit right (the cutter wheel can be fun to buzz through screws that are too long).

 

[SLU Aequitas]

Congrats! Welcome to the WQHD club!

Just giving you a fair warning... your Nvidia GTX 580 may barely able to handle respectable frame rates for BF3 on ultra 2560s1440... so if you are flying your jet in 64player Caspian Border = I may have a chance against you in the skies...
http://www.anandtech.com/show/5818/nvidia-geforce-gtx-670-review-feat-evga/11

Hehe, I don't run BF3 @ max, I turn off HBAO/SSAO and turn shadows to low

 

[maddie]

Some info.

An Achieva Shimian QH270 Lite Pixel perfect model from TAPlanet.

Finally picked up mine from local Fedex office today. Unboxed, plugged it to my 6870 and power brick and booted PC.

1) Took a few seconds to get power plug orientated correctly. It's not quite a four pin square. Close enough to cause mistakes, but two of the pins are slightly further apart that the other two. once you see that, it connects easily.

2) On boot up, the power brick had a solid green light and the monitor led had solid blue, but no picture appeared. Heard windows launch but still no picture. Some slight worry but decided to switch the monitor off and then on again. The windows desktop appeared as if nothing was wrong.

3) My eyes are not the best and I thought I might have to increase the font size, but the sheer clarity of the letters make me able to see a lot better than I expected.

4) Out of the box, I'm not noticing any noticeable color variations.

5) I ordered a pixel perfect Lite model from TaPlanet and it appears to be exactly as advertised. A hand written note was included, certifying it as pixel perfect.

6) I am coming from a 1366x768 18.5" monitor (don't laugh), and when I started a couple games, they ran at 1366x768 filling the whole screen. COH and Supreme Commander 2. Reset in game menu and they are now running at native res. The point is, it appears you CAN game at lower resolutions and have the use of the full screen. The images will not be as sharp but will be usable for those with lower spec video cards.

7) Can see full boot menu.

8) Power brick gets quite warm. This is a 110-240 Volts 50/60 Hz model. I had to use a PC power supply cord as the included one was for Korea. A Welltronics AC/DC Adapter (WTS24055). We will see. It appears the temperature is proportional to the brightness (logical).

9) No drooping of top bezel.

10) Light bleed is minimal.

11) Am running at about 50% brightness levels.

12) Stand is more than adequate and easy to adjust tilt.

I am very happy with this purchase. The service from the seller, TaPlanet, was excellent. Four days from Korea with an additional three days correcting Fedex's screw-up in charging me duty & Vat. Computer stuff is duty free & Vat free here.

 

[SHAQ]

The Shimian doesn't require removing anything except 1 screw for the included stand to mount a VESA stand to it. It seems to be the one to get if you want to use the VESA mounts.

 

[Nvidiaguy07]

The Shimian doesn't require removing anything except 1 screw for the included stand to mount a VESA stand to it. It seems to be the one to get if you want to use the VESA mounts.

i was planning on getting a catleap, in hopes that some day they would release the pcb to OC to 120hz. How hard is it to remove all screws on a catleap?

 

[SKORPI0]

So which one is best bung for the buck? And which brand/version would you get?

Achieva ShiMian

Yamasaki Catleap Q270

Potalion 2710QW

Crossover 27Q

 

[Nvidiaguy07]

I ended up getting a 120hz version from ts planet for 529. Yea its more than i wanted to pay, but i didnt want to go from 120hz to 60hz. Maybe if i never used 120hz before it would have been fine. And if i just got the normal version, i would have been checking constantly for the pcb to sell by itself, and at that point, im sure i would have gladly just paid 200 for the board, so whatever.

 

[blackened23]

Its pretty amazing how well these screens have sold, to me this represents a big untapped market for other companies. Samsung, Dell, HP and others are still charging 700$+ for their PLS and IPS panels, and while they definitely DO have better quality with fewer defects such as backlight bleed, the price is too high to be mainstream.

I look forward to the day when all 2560 screens are reasonably priced.

 

[SickBeast]

Its pretty amazing how well these screens have sold, to me this represents a big untapped market for other companies. Samsung, Dell, HP and others are still charging 700$+ for their PLS and IPS panels, and while they definitely DO have better quality with fewer defects such as backlight bleed, the price is too high to be mainstream.

I look forward to the day when all 2560 screens are reasonably priced.

It won't be long. It wasn't long ago that 1080p carried a huge premium.

 

[Nvidiaguy07]

crap having serious buyers remorse. I bought the 120hz 2b version on ebay from ta_planet, but now im reading that its NOT actually overclockable to 120hz? This is the one i bought:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320931213277
I already requested to cancel, but how can they advertise as 120hz if its not? I thought 2b was the version that everyone is looking for? (at least i was...)

 

[SHAQ]

It says 82 for ATI and 124 for Nvidia on the listing. It would be false advertising if it doesn't. How did you learn that it doesn't OC to 120?

 

[Destiny]

crap having serious buyers remorse. I bought the 120hz 2b version on ebay from ta_planet, but now im reading that its NOT actually overclockable to 120hz? This is the one i bought:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320931213277
I already requested to cancel, but how can they advertise as 120hz if its not? I thought 2b was the version that everyone is looking for? (at least i was...)

I mentioned that in POST# 414...

That is why I said to wait and talk to the 120Hz.net group...

 

[maddie]

I have a strange effect on my ShiMian Lite model (pixel perfect).

Got it last week and was praising the quality, but noticed a stuck green dot yesterday. The very odd part is that it's less than a pixel. I found it on a black screen. It was extremely faint, barely noticeable. Putting up an all red screen and using a magnifier, I noticed the green dot as being about 30% the area of the lit adjacent red sub-pixel. It also had an irregular shape unlike the lit red which has a vertical, sharply defined, rectangular shape.

Anyone has a clue as to what is happening?
How is it possible to have only part of a sub-pixel stuck?

All other aspects of the monitor are excellent and to be honest I have no problem with the monitor, only curious. Even though I know where to look, I have difficulty in finding the green dot.

 

[Destiny]

I have a strange effect on my ShiMian Lite model (pixel perfect).

Got it last week and was praising the quality, but noticed a stuck green dot yesterday. The very odd part is that it's less than a pixel. I found it on a black screen. It was extremely faint, barely noticeable. Putting up an all red screen and using a magnifier, I noticed the green dot as being about 30% the area of the lit adjacent red sub-pixel. It also had an irregular shape unlike the lit red which has a vertical, sharply defined, rectangular shape.

Anyone has a clue as to what is happening?
How is it possible to have only part of a sub-pixel stuck?

All other aspects of the monitor are excellent and to be honest I have no problem with the monitor, only curious. Even though I know where to look, I have difficulty in finding the green dot.

Sounds like you have a dead or stuck Bright Green sub/pixel of the Blue/Green/Red... I guess your ShiMian Lite model (pixel perfect) is not a pixel perfect after all...D:

 

[maddie]

Sounds like you have a dead or stuck Bright Green sub/pixel of the Blue/Green/Red... I guess your ShiMian Lite model (pixel perfect) is not a pixel perfect after all...D:

Please understand what I wrote. It is NOT a full sub-pixel. I DO NOT have a full sub-pixel stuck. The dot is irregular in shape.

"I noticed the green dot as being about 30% the area of the lit adjacent red sub-pixel. It also had an irregular shape unlike the lit red which has a vertical, sharply defined, rectangular shape.

Anyone has a clue as to what is happening?
How is it possible to have only part of a sub-pixel stuck?"