anyone ever use Just Brakes?

[robphelan]

wife needs new brakes on her 2003 Explorer. I don't have a whole lot of time to do it myself (and I've never done it by myself either - i've always had someone who was an old pro at it).

There's a new one that opened up near us.. i haven't read a whole lot of good reviews about their other locations around the country.... but, that could be just the nature of people - you speak louder when there's a problem vs. a compliment.

 

[CrackRabbit]

Buy a book, a set of jack stands and a good three ton jack and do it yourself.
You will save, time, money and a very large headache.

 

[bruceb]

I agree. Changing brake pads is a very simple job. Even if you need to change the rotors, it is not very hard.
Now drum brakes, on the other hand are more complex and can itimidate a novice mechanic.

 

[thomsbrain]

Now, to actually answer the OP's question:

I would avoid any brake, muffler, or oil change store for ANY work, period. Find a Ford or domestic specialist mechanic and have them do the work. If you need a suggestion, go to Car Talk's "Mechanics Files" on their cars.com page or look on Yelp.

 

[robphelan]

maybe i will try by myself... i just don't have a lot of confidence when i'm doing this kind of work alone. i've done it with people several times.. and I do have the tools.. compressor, jack, jackstands and the brakepads already.

i remember helping replace the old drum pads on my first veh - 72 SuperBeetle back in 1988 or so...

 

[sjwaste]

Originally posted by: robphelan
maybe i will try by myself... i just don't have a lot of confidence when i'm doing this kind of work alone. i've done it with people several times.. and I do have the tools.. compressor, jack, jackstands and the brakepads already.

i remember helping replace the old drum pads on my first veh - 72 SuperBeetle back in 1988 or so...

You don't need a compressor, at least not if you're going to use it for what I think you will.

Torque wrench. Tighten everything back to spec.

For brake pads, that's usually one bolt per rotor and the lug nuts. Using air tools set to who knows what isn't good for the hardware.

 

[robphelan]

i meant for the lug nuts.

 

[Ktulu]

If you do end up doing it yourself, as a safety precaution bleed your damn brakes when you're done.

http://forums.anandtech.com/me...id=85&threadid=2250770

 

[Bignate603]

I used the Just Brakes here in AZ. I was having some brake noise from the rear drums and didn't have the time to deal with it myself. They opened up the rear drums, checked them against spec, checked the rear pads, looked over the front brakes, cleaned off some corrosion and things that had built up in the rear drums and put it all back together. Noise was gone, it looks like the noise was just the corrosion inside the drum getting knocked off the drum and then making some horrible horrible noise when it get trapped under the brake pad.

Total cost to me: $0.

They spent an hour with the car going over it and fixed the noise but because they didn't actually change out any parts there was no charge for what they considered an inspection. While I hear their work might be a little bit higher than other places I'd rather pay an extra $50 for something I need than $250 for something I don't. It's the same philosophy I have with my mechanic. He costs a bit more but he only fixes what needs it and if he makes a mistake (one of his fixes didn't solve the problem) he credits me towards other work.

Of course, it's a chain and the one near me may be better run than most. YMMV so if they recommend any work make sure that they actually show you the problem. If they can't walk over to the car and explain what's wrong in a way that you can understand and show you why they think its the problem they're probably taking you for a ride. This goes for pretty much all mechanics.

 

[BW86]

Originally posted by: Ktulu
If you do end up doing it yourself, as a safety precaution bleed your damn brakes when you're done.

http://forums.anandtech.com/me...id=85&threadid=2250770

I've never had to bleed my brakes after changing pads.

You do however need a c-clamp or something similar to push the caliper piston back in (some twist back in) before putting the new pads in. (remember to remove the brake fluid reservoir cap in the engine bay first)

 

[bruceb]

Correct. In most cases, you can push the piston back without the need for opening the bleed screw and letting air in the lines.
A check of the pedal for firmness will tell you if the brakes should be bled.

 

[OsoVerde]

I'd recommend taking it to a mechanic you'd trust for major work, usually the brake/tune-up 'n' lube shops are rather sketchy. Changing brake pads yourself is easy if you have tools, know what you're doing, and there's no complications; but if you have ABS/antilock brakes and don't know proper procedure you can seriously screw it up.