ATOT Handymen: Help needed with sump pump

[pnad]

Saweeet! A sump pump discussion!

I have 2 questions.

I have a submersed pump with a check valve connected directly to the output. Pump output is threaded, valve is threaded on one side smooth on the other. Rubber coupler to pvc pipe up to the ceiling and out. No vent hole.

Question 1:
I get water hammering against the flapper checkvalve every time the pump shuts off. Should the vent hole be above the valve to soften the hammering?


Question 2:
My pump rarely runs in the summer unless there is a MAJOR rain storm. In the winter the pump is running constantly (between 1-5 times daily). Any idea why? I spose this is more of a geological question

 

[lykaon78]

Saweeet! A sump pump discussion!

I have 2 questions.

I have a submersed pump with a check valve connected directly to the output. Pump output is threaded, valve is threaded on one side smooth on the other. Rubber coupler to pvc pipe up to the ceiling and out. No vent hole.

Question 1:
I get water hammering against the flapper checkvalve every time the pump shuts off. Should the vent hole be above the valve to soften the hammering?


Question 2:
My pump rarely runs in the summer unless there is a MAJOR rain storm. In the winter the pump is running constantly (between 1-5 times daily). Any idea why? I spose this is more of a geological question

I'm no expert as I've already proven in this thread... but for question 2 I have basically the same sump pump routine. The pit is dry in the summer and rarely runs except during significant rains and runs pretty frequently in the winter. I'm guessing this is due to seasonal changes in the water table. If the water table drops below your basement the sump pit should not fill. In the winter the ground is saturated enough to raise the water table.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Water_table

 

[iGas]

Ummm, errrr, WHAT! Drugs are bad, okay.
If you place the check valve too close to a submersible sump pump and you have a discharge line that runs to a basement ceiling, when the pump is not on you have the weight of the water in the discharge line holding the check valve closed. (static head) As your sump pump starts to get old it will have a tough time pushing against all of that weight. By picking a location two to three feet off the top of the sump pit you will give your pump an advantage, as the pumped slug of water will hit the check valve and allow it to open easier due to the reduced weight of water above it. Rule of thumb for all professional plumbers is bellybutton high. I will ask you kindly to refrain from giving advise on subjects you know little about.

It is common to install sump pump check valve high for ease of maintenance because cheap plastic swing check valves fails quite often due to debris, however many plumbers install inline ball/spring check valve at the base of the sump pump (a few inches will produce enough of a slug of water force) that doesn't require venting and they last much longer.

Old techniques aren't bad, but there are new ones that precede the old

Deep well pumps/shallow well pumps Jet pumps/submersibles have no vent and they have the check valve at the lowest end of the pipe (at the beginning of the inlet), hence the name "foot valve". And, in many applications we install a foot valve & an inline check valve near the top of the pipe run before the pump.

Here ya go, a video show how to install sump pump that shows the check valve is less than 12" from the outlet connection

PS. There is a reason that you are not a plumber.

 

[iGas]

Saweeet! A sump pump discussion!

I have 2 questions.

I have a submersed pump with a check valve connected directly to the output. Pump output is threaded, valve is threaded on one side smooth on the other. Rubber coupler to pvc pipe up to the ceiling and out. No vent hole.

Question 1:
I get water hammering against the flapper checkvalve every time the pump shuts off. Should the vent hole be above the valve to soften the hammering?


Question 2:
My pump rarely runs in the summer unless there is a MAJOR rain storm. In the winter the pump is running constantly (between 1-5 times daily). Any idea why? I spose this is more of a geological question

Try a ball check valve to see if it reduce water hammer. (I prefer a $20 brass ball check valve over a $5 plastic swing check valve)

 

[runzwithsizorz]

Saweeet! A sump pump discussion!

I have 2 questions.

I have a submersed pump with a check valve connected directly to the output. Pump output is threaded, valve is threaded on one side smooth on the other. Rubber coupler to pvc pipe up to the ceiling and out. No vent hole.

Question 1:
I get water hammering against the flapper checkvalve every time the pump shuts off. Should the vent hole be above the valve to soften the hammering?

NO! It would defeat the purpose of the check valve, for it is the back pressure that closes it, also the relief /vent hole has nothing to do with the hammering. You can, however lessen the bang by elevating the valve up to where it should be. It is very easy to do, and if you wish, I will walk you through it. Also, something to look at:
http://www.amazon.com/Campbell-B-0823-15-CHECK-VALVE-WHT1-5/dp/B001VNWLLQ


Question 2:
My pump rarely runs in the summer unless there is a MAJOR rain storm. In the winter the pump is running constantly (between 1-5 times daily). Any idea why? I spose this is more of a geological question

It is not uncommon for pumps at some locations to cycle 5, or more times an hour. Be thankful that yours is doing its job, but it will not continue to forever. I would advise some sort of back up, even if it’s only an alarm, and a bucket brigade. The alarm I linked to earlier in this thread is the one I have, and is so loud my neighbors can hear it.
“Any idea why”, That’s a rhetorical question right? Geology, physics, mechanics, mud, blood, and beer, it all comes into play.