ATOTers, is it the norm to spend $700-800 for a set of new tires?

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Meghan54

Lifer
Oct 18, 2009
11,573
5,096
136
Paid around $750 installed for a set of Michelin LTX MS2's in 255/70-16's. There were cheaper options, but none as good.
 

razel

Platinum Member
May 14, 2002
2,337
90
101
Yep. If I decent rated tires from TireRack and have it mounted at my local shop, even with deals/coupons the cheapest total cost is still ~$600 for 4 tires. I learned over time though, that if you tell them you want to keep the tires, they'll throw them in your trunk and will forgo the disposal fee. Now just drive to your nearest recycling center that takes tires and use that leftover money for lunch.
 

saratoga172

Golden Member
Nov 10, 2009
1,564
1
81
Think I paid right around 7-750. All seasons since we get some inclement weather 3 days a year. The tires are good enough for "summer" tires and I'm not doing anything crazy on them so works for me.
 

evident

Lifer
Apr 5, 2005
11,938
538
126
sounds about right for 18's. Real happy i downsized to 17's for my winter set.
 

richardycc

Diamond Member
Apr 29, 2001
5,719
1
81
I buy a lot of stuff online, but tires are something I won't buy online, just not worth the hassle, shipping charge kills the deal and if you have any issues, good luck trying to ship it back or get a retailer take care of your problem.
 

jlee

Lifer
Sep 12, 2001
48,513
221
106
I buy a lot of stuff online, but tires are something I won't buy online, just not worth the hassle, shipping charge kills the deal and if you have any issues, good luck trying to ship it back or get a retailer take care of your problem.

Discount Tire Direct ships for free.

I've never had a problem with new tires, online or otherwise - but I suppose that happens sometimes.
 

Vdubchaos

Lifer
Nov 11, 2009
10,411
10
0
now you see why I refuse to buy a new car or car with big wheels.

Both of my cars have 15' rims and I spend about $500 mounted. I also don't like big wheel look or big arches SO many new modern cars have.

BLEH

$700-800 for 18" is not bad though....
 

RearAdmiral

Platinum Member
Jun 24, 2004
2,265
120
106
My tires range from ~300 for general arctics for snow and 1350 for the viper tires. 700-800 isn't crazy for bigger wheels.
 

jlee

Lifer
Sep 12, 2001
48,513
221
106
now you see why I refuse to buy a new car or car with big wheels.

Both of my cars have 15' rims and I spend about $500 mounted. I also don't like big wheel look or big arches SO many new modern cars have.

BLEH

$700-800 for 18" is not bad though....

They need big wheels to clear big brakes. With 10" rotors, 15" wheels are fine. Not so much when you get into 13"+ territory.
 

Pantlegz

Diamond Member
Jun 6, 2007
4,631
4
81
800 for tires is probably middle of the road. My summer tires cost about 1200 installed for 17's my all seasons(winter) were closer to 800-900 installed.
 

Fenixgoon

Lifer
Jun 30, 2003
31,803
10,342
136
in short, yes.

larger tire diameter = more $$$ more often than not.

my car's tires are 245/40/R19 in the rear and 225/40/R19 in the front and a "cheap" set is $600-800 while a good set is about 1000-1200. and yes, the good tires are worth it if you plan on doing any sort of performance driving (track days, autocross, etc).
 

Kelvrick

Lifer
Feb 14, 2001
18,438
5
81
The BEST all-season tires, bar none - http://tires.tirerack.com/search?asug=&view=list&w=continental+dws (unless you want run-flats, which then I'd go with the P7)

I didn't like mine too much. They offer a little bit more winter performance, but I wasn't too happy with them. Especially against a dedicated summer/winter setup.

If I needed a compromise tire that could handle some snow/ice and handle some warm weather duties, I'd go Nokian WR G3.
 

tortillasoup

Golden Member
Jan 12, 2011
1,977
3
81
Those continental tires aren't even that good, and they certainly don't last that long at all! The OP is complaining about the cost of his tires and the length of mileage he is getting out of them, the tires I recommended have excellent traction and good warranties. They're also higher rating in the traction dept. compared with those continental tires anyway.


Just look at these charts:
Cost efficient tires:
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tests/chartDisplay.jsp?ttid=188

Cost inefficient tires:
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tests/chartDisplay.jsp?ttid=194


The performance of the tires overlap in the two different categories yet one category of tires last half as long. Those continental tires are rated at 50K mile warranties yet a lot of customers are complaining about tire life being half as long. That's non an uncommon issue as I had that issue with some Michelin Energy MXV4 S8 tires which are stupidly priced and lasted maybe 20K miles before being bald. They also started off at only 9/32 so they didn't exactly have a great start to life.
 
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reallyscrued

Platinum Member
Jul 28, 2004
2,617
5
81
For my non performance vehicles....used tires have always served me just fine. Just a thought.

Currently my 2001 TL-S has 4 mismatched used tires from TireZone ($35 dollars per 17 inch balloon profile tire, mounted and balanced. Probably 30,000 miles left on them. YMMV, literally).

Now, on my previous BMWs and WRX, I obviously wouldn't have gone that route but using used tires is a great way to cut costs even further on your beater. (Unless your beater is for inclement weather).
 

tortillasoup

Golden Member
Jan 12, 2011
1,977
3
81
For my non performance vehicles....used tires have always served me just fine. Just a thought.

Currently my 2001 TL-S has 4 mismatched used tires from TireZone ($35 dollars per 17 inch balloon profile tire, mounted and balanced. Probably 30,000 miles left on them. YMMV, literally).

Now, on my previous BMWs and WRX, I obviously wouldn't have gone that route but using used tires is a great way to cut costs even further on your beater. (Unless your beater is for inclement weather).

I sometimes buy used tires as well. But you have to calculate out the remaining tread depth, the value of the tire per 1/32, you add in the mounting costs and then you try to figure out which is cheaper, new or used. On cheaper tires like less than $75 a piece, going used doesn't make sense unless you're mounting them yourself and the tires are nearly free. But on some more expensive tires, if you get ones with lots of tread and you save $50+ a tire, if you know it's a good make of tire with a decent warranty, then going used can make sense.
 

dud

Diamond Member
Feb 18, 2001
7,635
73
91
If you shop patiently then deals can just flop into your lap. two years ago my original truck tires were needing replacement. Don't get me wrong, they had plenty of tread left but traction suffered greatly when it rained. They just sucked when it rained ... and it NEVER rains in Florida.

By chance, I visited a local tire store that just happened to have some of the highest rated light truck tires for sale, installed, for less than $400 after rebate. I jumped at the deal and now I drive through the rain without being concerned about slipping and sliding.

If you are looking for a deal use Tirerack.com:

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/surveyresults/surveydisplay.jsp?type=SSTAS
 

Dsmtalonkid

Junior Member
May 7, 2013
18
0
0
what region are you from? Do you get snow? Ice?


For B&M places, I've had an ok experience with Mavis. You can check their site for full cost with tires+mounting. Otherwise if I get then from tire rack, I'll just have our mechanic mount them on the car. He usually charges cheaper per tire to mount.

Wifes car has 17's and I'll spend anywhere between 110 to 180 per tire depending on sales. Picked up a set of Continental CWS's for about 130 per.. Prior to that pick up a set of Michelins MXM4's for a fraction of their list price.
On my station car, I've given General AltiMAX RT43's a shot and so far they get the job done. Paid under 90 per tire.
We put a set of these on the wifes Altima last year and so far they've been pretty decent for us in northern Illinois.
 

sm625

Diamond Member
May 6, 2011
8,172
137
106
Since the price of oil has come down, the price of tires should eventually fall back down somewhat. I read somewhere that a set of tires themselves contains almost a full barrel of oil, plus you consume half a barrel making them. Tire manufacturing is energy intensive.
 

jlee

Lifer
Sep 12, 2001
48,513
221
106
I sometimes buy used tires as well. But you have to calculate out the remaining tread depth, the value of the tire per 1/32, you add in the mounting costs and then you try to figure out which is cheaper, new or used. On cheaper tires like less than $75 a piece, going used doesn't make sense unless you're mounting them yourself and the tires are nearly free. But on some more expensive tires, if you get ones with lots of tread and you save $50+ a tire, if you know it's a good make of tire with a decent warranty, then going used can make sense.

Yep. Or if you just need to get by for a while before you sell a vehicle - I picked up a used set of 315/75R16 BFG AT's for my LX450 a few months before I sold it. They got me through a Baja trip and enough daily driving that I didn't have to spend $1k on new tires right before I sold it.
 

SSSnail

Lifer
Nov 29, 2006
17,461
82
86
Those continental tires aren't even that good, and they certainly don't last that long at all! The OP is complaining about the cost of his tires and the length of mileage he is getting out of them, the tires I recommended have excellent traction and good warranties. They're also higher rating in the traction dept. compared with those continental tires anyway.


Just look at these charts:
Cost efficient tires:
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tests/chartDisplay.jsp?ttid=188

Cost inefficient tires:
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tests/chartDisplay.jsp?ttid=194


The performance of the tires overlap in the two different categories yet one category of tires last half as long. Those continental tires are rated at 50K mile warranties yet a lot of customers are complaining about tire life being half as long. That's non an uncommon issue as I had that issue with some Michelin Energy MXV4 S8 tires which are stupidly priced and lasted maybe 20K miles before being bald. They also started off at only 9/32 so they didn't exactly have a great start to life.
Uh... your second chart with shows the ExtremeContact DWS tires consistently perform better than the others in all category. The first chart was linked to the wrong tires.

As for the OP, I sized up his tires and the UTGQ ratings are better than a lot of other tires. (ExtemeContact DWS)
Size: 235/40ZR18
Sidewall Style: Blackwall
Load Range: XL
Serv. Desc: 95Y
UTQG: 560 AA A

Yes, I understand that there are tires out there that perform better in certain conditions, but for the money, these are the most well rounded all-season tires. I like them.

Performance ratings:
Code:
Hydroplaning Resistance 9.4
Wet Traction 9.4
Cornering Stability 9.0
Dry Traction 9.3
Steering Response 8.8
Light Snow Traction 9.1
Deep Snow Traction 8.6
Ice Traction 8.2
Ride Quality 9.0
Noise 8.9
Treadwear 9.1

I also run the Pirelli P7 RFs, like them as well, but cost a bit more.
 
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Midwayman

Diamond Member
Jan 28, 2000
5,723
325
126
Those continental tires aren't even that good, and they certainly don't last that long at all! The OP is complaining about the cost of his tires and the length of mileage he is getting out of them, the tires I recommended have excellent traction and good warranties. They're also higher rating in the traction dept. compared with those continental tires anyway.

Jesus man, you have no idea what the fuck you are talking about. The number you are probably quoting is subjective aggregation only within a category of tire. The DWS beat the purecontact in the objective tests. Stop posting outright wrong info.
 

tortillasoup

Golden Member
Jan 12, 2011
1,977
3
81
Uh... your second chart with shows the ExtremeContact DWS tires consistently perform better than the others in all category. The first chart was linked to the wrong tires.

As for the OP, I sized up his tires and the UTGQ ratings are better than a lot of other tires. (ExtemeContact DWS)
Size: 235/40ZR18
Sidewall Style: Blackwall
Load Range: XL
Serv. Desc: 95Y
UTQG: 560 AA A

Yes, I understand that there are tires out there that perform better in certain conditions, but for the money, these are the most well rounded all-season tires. I like them.

Performance ratings:
Code:
Hydroplaning Resistance 9.4
Wet Traction 9.4
Cornering Stability 9.0
Dry Traction 9.3
Steering Response 8.8
Light Snow Traction 9.1
Deep Snow Traction 8.6
Ice Traction 8.2
Ride Quality 9.0
Noise 8.9
Treadwear 9.1

I also run the Pirelli P7 RFs, like them as well, but cost a bit more.
I was looking at the category as a whole. In both categories, there were tires that had better performance than the other. For example, the Extreme contact in wet pavement had the same stopping distance as the Pirelli Cinturato and higher stopping distance than the Pure Contact and Premier A/S which are "grand touring tires". I don't like the Extreme contact tires because going by the reviews, the tires wear out very quickly, sometimes as quick as 20K miles which reminds me of the Primacy MXV4 S8. For a tire with marginally better performance 86Ft stopping distance in the dry vs. 88-90 for the Premier A/S, Pure Contact, Turanza Serenity Plus, and 94ft for the Pirelli Cinturato, that to me isn't enough to justify the wear penalty of those tires. The Cinturato, based upon the reviews is an extremely comfortable, quiet tire with decent handling.
 

Kelvrick

Lifer
Feb 14, 2001
18,438
5
81
Jesus man, you have no idea what the fuck you are talking about. The number you are probably quoting is subjective aggregation only within a category of tire. The DWS beat the purecontact in the objective tests. Stop posting outright wrong info.

To be fair, the DWS wins in the dry numbers, but loses in the wet numbers pretty well.
 
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