Auto repair myths

[Biermacht]

A Jetta is only for women.
For a man, the size of your car is inversely proportional to the size of your wiener.
Every raised truck must have a dumb huge sticker on the back window, usually that of your non-existent clothing/racing company.

Oh wait those aren't myths.

 

[Nutdotnet]

Originally posted by: Biermacht
A Jetta is only for women.
For a man, the size of your car is inversely proportional to the size of your wiener.
Every raised truck must have a dumb huge sticker on the back window, usually that of your non-existent clothing/racing company.

Oh wait those aren't myths.

Oh wait....you're an idiot!

 

[DrPizza]

Originally posted by: gsellis

Originally posted by: DrPizza

Originally posted by: shortylickens
Much more intelligent than ASSuming the vehicle in question has anti-lock breaks. If you wanna make an ass out of yourself fine, dont inflict your ignorance and stupidity on me.
As it so happens, my current vehicle is a little older and doesnt have ABS. But it has 4 wheel drive and 4 proper winter tires on it.

Incidentally, questioning someone elses intelligence does not enhance yours. It only makes it easier to point out how dumb you really are.
Now please go to bed and let the grown-ups finish their conversation.

Your profile says "Guam." Get much ice on the roads down there?!
Unless you're riding the clutch, downshifting on very slippery roads is pretty stupid, with or without ABS. Here's a nice, scientific explanation: there's a maximum amount of force that friction can possibly provide to your vehicle. Once your tires start slipping on the surface, the coefficient of friction drops (the difference between the static coefficient of friction when the tires aren't sliding to the coefficient of kinetic friction when the tires are sliding wrt to the road surface.) Downshift on black ice and you're going to lose control. Downshift in what 75% of the users here would consider "slippery", and you'll be fine (i.e. 1/4 inch of snow in North Carolina is enough to throw people into a panic; the people in western NY and other areas that need a foot of snow and -20 wind chill factors before they consider closing schools laugh and continue moving at the speed limit, and don't do idiotic things which cause them to lose control.)

I want to clear a few things up.

1) Most people don't know how to downshift. If you downshift like most people, ABS is better. Those that use the clutch to drag the engine up to speed in the gear are going to spin eventually.

2) There are conditions were ABS sucks and AWD (a good one)/4WD will rule. Wet leaves and snow on ice on snow will cause the wheels to stop spinning under braking. ABS stops working where if the wheels 'plow' a little, you get more grip.

3) ABS can be very regular, but all ABSs are not the same. The ABS system in the Integra Type-R was freaking amazing. In our Expedition, meh. Most pickup ABSs will let the tire lock momentarily before it releases, which can start a slide (waits for 0).

Me, if I had the choice, I would want AWD in a Subaru with ABS. WRX STi with snow tires for the win

Your profile says Georgia! I'm in Western NY. I've driven on icy roads for over 2 decades. AND, I prefer a manual transmission. I used downshifting to slow my vehicle down regularly. However, there's no way in the world I'd ever use engine braking on icy roads. AWD or 4WD is great for driving on the snow, but I really don't miss my 4WD that much - I still get in the passing lane filled with snow and pass strings of cars. You're right about the snow tires though - they make a big difference (or an aggressive tread on a 4WD.)

 

[Staples]

Originally posted by: BoomerD
Gasoline is gasoline, regardless of where you buy it.

This might be more true than you think.

All gas stations get their refined gasoline out of the same pipeline.

 

[Staples]

Originally posted by: Pacfanweb

Originally posted by: foghorn67
Myth: Warming up the car will ensure everything is well lubricated on startup.
Exception: EXTREME cold weather.

With today's oils, there's really no reason to warm the car up at all. By the time your engine catches and you can physically let go of the key, the oil is everywhere that the pump pushes it to.
As you said, unless in extreme cold, you can start it and drive it like you stole it with no repercussions.

I've talked to a couple of Ford engineers that agreed with me on this when I was trying to get this argument settled.

My syncromesh is gone in gear 2 and it is just about impossible to shift into second gear when the car is cold. When the transmission oil heats up, the gears will find their way into place.

But I would have to let the car sit for a few minutes which I never do, I usually just skip gear 2.

 

[Q]

Originally posted by: Zenmervolt
I forgot this one: Teflon oil additives are a wonderful way to prolong engine life.

Really?

 

[Biermacht]

Originally posted by: Nutdotnet

Originally posted by: Biermacht
A Jetta is only for women.
For a man, the size of your car is inversely proportional to the size of your wiener.
Every raised truck must have a dumb huge sticker on the back window, usually that of your non-existent clothing/racing company.

Oh wait those aren't myths.

Oh wait....you're an idiot!

Ouch. A Jetta or raised truck owner? LOL.

 

[FDF12389]

Originally posted by: Pacfanweb

Originally posted by: shabby

Originally posted by: Zolty
Blinker fluid needs changing every 15k miles, or until it turns a green color.

Oh snap, mine needs changing!

Don't forget your muffler bearings!

Cant say that anymore, some cars actually have them.

 

[InlineFive]

Originally posted by: BD2003

Originally posted by: Pacfanweb

Originally posted by: BD2003

Originally posted by: Pacfanweb

Originally posted by: foghorn67
Myth: Warming up the car will ensure everything is well lubricated on startup.
Exception: EXTREME cold weather.

With today's oils, there's really no reason to warm the car up at all. By the time your engine catches and you can physically let go of the key, the oil is everywhere that the pump pushes it to.
As you said, unless in extreme cold, you can start it and drive it like you stole it with no repercussions.

I've talked to a couple of Ford engineers that agreed with me on this when I was trying to get this argument settled.

I really don't know about that. You're going to have a hard time convincing me to go full throttle before the car is fully warmed up. Hell, my car wont even let me near redline until its half warmed up, and even then, I have my doubts that its fully safe.

Then suit yourself. I've done it on hundreds, if not thousands of cars and it's made no difference.
The only thing that a cold engine means is a little more clearance here and there. Good oil pressure will compensate for that.
Example: You live in the South. Early on a spring morning, 50 degrees. Start the car, back out of the driveway, and floor it. Won't hurt a thing.

With the oils and clearances of yesteryear, this was not advisable. But if you understand the inner workings of the internal combustion automobile engine, you'll know that there's not a need for warm up...again, unless you're in a really cold climate. (e.g., Alaska, Minnesota, etc. ) Basically, if you need a block heater, this doesn't apply.

Take note: I'm not advocating that everyone start their car in the morning and immediately go racing every day, but if for some reason you need to spank it first thing...such as, pulling out of the neighborhood out in front of someone and you need to gun it while the car's still cold, have no fear.

If it makes no difference, why does it prevent me from revving past 6k (to 8k redline) until the engine is mostly warmed up? On a cold morning (30ish deg), the engine sounds vastly different. I'm not one to sit there and let it warm up at idle, but I can't imagine tearing down the street in the morning.

And how on earth could you possibly know hundreds/thousands of cars have not have their engine life shortened by doing so? I doubt it would blow it up on the spot, but more of a long term wear thing.

Assuming its all the same, and it doesnt hurt the engine, whats the *fastest* way to warm it up? The car uses so much more fuel while it's still cold.

Some manufacturers even state about how high you can rev the engine when the engine is cold. In the manual for my '95 850 T it says don't go over 3000RPM until the engine is warmed up because the lifters won't be pressurized. And I'm willing to bet that Zenmervolt's S70 whiteblock is the same way.

 

[gsellis]

Originally posted by: DrPizza
Your profile says Georgia! I'm in Western NY. I've driven on icy roads for over 2 decades. AND, I prefer a manual transmission. I used downshifting to slow my vehicle down regularly. However, there's no way in the world I'd ever use engine braking on icy roads. AWD or 4WD is great for driving on the snow, but I really don't miss my 4WD that much - I still get in the passing lane filled with snow and pass strings of cars. You're right about the snow tires though - they make a big difference (or an aggressive tread on a 4WD.)

We don't get snow anymore, just ice. Another 0 of a winter.

I was only imprisoned 4 years in St. Louis (like mud, you cannot drive in wet snow on ice when it gets higher than the hubs).

 

[gsellis]

Originally posted by: InlineFive
Some manufacturers even state about how high you can rev the engine when the engine is cold. In the manual for my '95 850 T it says don't go over 3000RPM until the engine is warmed up because the lifters won't be pressurized. And I'm willing to bet that Zenmervolt's S70 whiteblock is the same way.

Early Mazda rotaries were very prone to seal failure if the engine was not warmed up before running it hard. We are talking RX2, RX3.

 

[tiresmokindad]

Post some of the most persistant automotive repair myths that you've seen or heard, preferably things that can apply to any car and aren't model specific.

Some of my own favorites:

1) If the lights come on, the battery has to be good, so it's not worth testing it with a multi-meter.

2) Nitrogen in your tires will give you a smoother ride.

3) Blue tinted bulbs help you see better.

4) If you have keyless entry and you lock your keys in the car, you can call a friend on your cell and have them use the spare remote to unlock your car if they point the remote at their phone and if you put your cell phone near the car.

Other entries?

ZV

I think if the keys in the car will locked. I will call my friend. And he will surely help me. He will surely help me and call an expert to unlock the car for me.

 

[ShawnD1]

Uh I'm pretty sure using A/C can cause you to use more gas, especially on smaller engines that have to work a bit harder to run the A/C. The noticeable drop in power on some cars general means your going to be putting the pedal down farther to move at the same rate hence using more gas.

Very true. I remember the AC in my Honda Civic was powerful enough that I basically could not run the car in 5th gear at speeds lower than 40mph. The engine would run in the low torque rpm range at that speed, and the AC was taking away too much torque.

My current car, Toyota Corolla with an automatic, is even worse. On moderately warm days, the AC doesn't take too much power. On super hot days where the AC is going full blast, the car basically doesn't work in "drive". I need to put the car in 3rd or it doesn't have enough torque to drive properly; it's like driving up a hill in top gear.

That said, the AC doesn't seem to drop the gas mileage very much. It's about 10% lower in the city, but on the highway there's virtually no difference as far as I can tell. None of that really matters anyway. Do you think I'm going to pay the extra $1000 for AC in my car then not use it? Why the hell did I buy it if I wasn't going to use it?


A classic myth: a family car needs a V6 with 200+ horsepower.
Bullshit. I'm driving the slowest car in the world and I'm constantly waiting for retards in 300HP cars to get up to the speed limit when merging. You don't need a bigger engine. You need a bigger brain. Push the damn pedals harder and that little Honda Civic will get up to speed in a reasonable amount of time.

Myth: you need to turn the car off when pumping gas
Reality: This rule is based on the idea that cars backfire. Some cars really do backfire or shoot flames out the exhaust (race cars), and they really should be turned off. If you're driving your mom's stock Toyota Camry then don't worry about it. You can turn it off just to be safe, but don't flip out and scream at people if they leave the car running when it's -40 outside and their children are in the car shivering.

Myth: high octane fuel = more power
Reality: You only need high octane fuel if the engine knocks. The octane rating tells you how much energy is required before the fuel combusts; it does NOT tell you how much energy the fuel has. As an example of this, diesel fuel has an extremely low octane rating and absolutely will not work in a gasoline engine, but it has 40% more energy per unit volume. Ethanol has a very high octane rating but its energy density is actually a lot lower than gasoline. Octane rating has nothing to do with energy density or how much power you'll have (unless the owner's manual specifically says you need premium fuel).

 

[shortylickens]

Putting a cap on your exhaust pipe to make your 1989 Honda Civic sound like it's flatulent does not make you cool or improve your chances of mating.

Sooooooo, you're saying thats a myth?

 

[shortylickens]

ARRGGHH!
Fucking newbs bumping old thread!!!

 

[slag]

The whistle goes woo woo.

Dat's only in the mornin' when you're 'posta be makin' brefas or sumptin'.

 

[Gibson486]

Very true. I remember the AC in my Honda Civic was powerful enough that I basically could not run the car in 5th gear at speeds lower than 40mph. The engine would run in the low torque rpm range at that speed, and the AC was taking away too much torque.

My current car, Toyota Corolla with an automatic, is even worse. On moderately warm days, the AC doesn't take too much power. On super hot days where the AC is going full blast, the car basically doesn't work in "drive". I need to put the car in 3rd or it doesn't have enough torque to drive properly; it's like driving up a hill in top gear.

That said, the AC doesn't seem to drop the gas mileage very much. It's about 10% lower in the city, but on the highway there's virtually no difference as far as I can tell. None of that really matters anyway. Do you think I'm going to pay the extra $1000 for AC in my car then not use it? Why the hell did I buy it if I wasn't going to use it?


A classic myth: a family car needs a V6 with 200+ horsepower.
Bullshit. I'm driving the slowest car in the world and I'm constantly waiting for retards in 300HP cars to get up to the speed limit when merging. You don't need a bigger engine. You need a bigger brain. Push the damn pedals harder and that little Honda Civic will get up to speed in a reasonable amount of time.

Myth: you need to turn the car off when pumping gas
Reality: This rule is based on the idea that cars backfire. Some cars really do backfire or shoot flames out the exhaust (race cars), and they really should be turned off. If you're driving your mom's stock Toyota Camry then don't worry about it. You can turn it off just to be safe, but don't flip out and scream at people if they leave the car running when it's -40 outside and their children are in the car shivering.

Myth: high octane fuel = more power
Reality: You only need high octane fuel if the engine knocks. The octane rating tells you how much energy is required before the fuel combusts; it does NOT tell you how much energy the fuel has. As an example of this, diesel fuel has an extremely low octane rating and absolutely will not work in a gasoline engine, but it has 40% more energy per unit volume. Ethanol has a very high octane rating but its energy density is actually a lot lower than gasoline. Octane rating has nothing to do with energy density or how much power you'll have (unless the owner's manual specifically says you need premium fuel).

My gf's corolla doe snot have that problem. Infact, when it hit 100 degrees a month ago, my 3 was struggling and teh power steering went out. She picked me up and I drove her car home with the AC on full blast.

Also, you do not want to have your gas cap off with your car on. You are going to make the car think you have a vacuum leak.

 

[overst33r]

old ass thread is old

 

[SpatiallyAware]

<snip>


Myth: you need to turn the car off when pumping gas
Reality: This rule is based on the idea that cars backfire. Some cars really do backfire or shoot flames out the exhaust (race cars), and they really should be turned off. If you're driving your mom's stock Toyota Camry then don't worry about it. You can turn it off just to be safe, but don't flip out and scream at people if they leave the car running when it's -40 outside and their children are in the car shivering.

<snip>

You actually should turn your car off when pumping gas. Aside from (very very unlikely) safety issues, most newer cars measure pressure inside the tank and doing this can cause a CEL




Not digging at Shawn here but this thread is full of misinformation, lol..






....Also, in before inflate to sidewall

 

[Fenixgoon]

inflating tires to sidewall
korean engineers cannot make fuel efficient vehicles


i think we all know who started those myths

 

[Born2bwire]

ARRGGHH!
Fucking newbs bumping old thread!!!

I know. I read the whole damn thing, thinking the whole time why hasn't anyone made a fucking sidewall comment yet?

 

[ShawnD1]

Also, you do not want to have your gas cap off with your car on. You are going to make the car think you have a vacuum leak.

Cars haven't been vacuum powered for the past 20 years dude

There are many ways to transfer power throughout a complex machine. You can use vacuum, pneumatics, hydraulics, electricity, belts, etc.
Modern stuff uses electricity. Cars in the 60s had vacuum windshield wipers. My car uses motors to power the wipers.
60s cars used vacuum to pull fuel into a carburetor. My car uses a standard electric pump.
Many old cars used vacuum for the brakes. My car uses electronic brakes.
Many older vehicles used vacuum for the power steering; my dad's motorhome made a weird hissing noise when steering. My car uses electronic steering.
My parents old cars had a belt driven fan to cool the radiator. My car uses an electric fan that turns off as needed to save fuel.
Old transmissions used vacuum for gear shifting. My car uses electronic gear shifting ("ECT" = Electronically Controlled Transmission).
Many old cars used vacuum for the power locks. My car has electric motors for the locks.

most newer cars measure pressure inside the tank and doing this can cause a CEL

This was explained by the Honda guy when I bought my last last car. He said if your car shows an error after filling the tank, it means you didn't screw the cap on tight enough. Screw it until it clicks once and the light goes away.



Another thing that doesn't really count as a myth is people thinking it's some kind of conspiracy that diesel cars are everywhere in Europe but are extremely rare in Canada. The reason for this is actually very technical; it's not laws and it's not a conspiracy. Diesel engines are incredibly hard to start in cold weather. Your standard gasoline Honda Civic will fire up the first time it turns over in -40 weather, but you can't do that with a diesel engine. Diesel fuel tends to gel at low temperatures, and it doesn't work when it's like that. It will even gel in the fuel tank while the engine is running which can cause the engine to die. Can you imagine buying a car like that? It's running fine then it just suddenly dies like it ran out of fuel even though the tank is full?
Diesel vehicles have all kinds of bullshit to deal with this. Special heating plugs in the engine, in the fuel tank, insulation around the tank, recommend you plug the vehicle in before starting, etc. These vehicles suck.

To put it into perspective of why your British diesel car won't work in Canada. London, England's average low temperature is 36F (2.4C) in January. Edmonton, Canada's average low temperature is 3F (-16C) and the lowest on record is -48F (-44C). Hitting -22F (-30C) at night and in early morning is very common in January. Have fun not getting to work on time.

 

[DrPizza]

Cars haven't been vacuum powered for the past 20 years dude

There are many ways to transfer power throughout a complex machine. You can use vacuum, pneumatics, hydraulics, electricity, belts, etc.
Modern stuff uses electricity. Cars in the 60s had vacuum windshield wipers. My car uses motors to power the wipers.
60s cars used vacuum to pull fuel into a carburetor. My car uses a standard electric pump.
Many old cars used vacuum for the brakes. My car uses electronic brakes.
Many older vehicles used vacuum for the power steering; my dad's motorhome made a weird hissing noise when steering. My car uses electronic steering.
My parents old cars had a belt driven fan to cool the radiator. My car uses an electric fan that turns off as needed to save fuel.
Old transmissions used vacuum for gear shifting. My car uses electronic gear shifting ("ECT" = Electronically Controlled Transmission).
Many old cars used vacuum for the power locks. My car has electric motors for the locks.



This was explained by the Honda guy when I bought my last last car. He said if your car shows an error after filling the tank, it means you didn't screw the cap on tight enough. Screw it until it clicks once and the light goes away.



Another thing that doesn't really count as a myth is people thinking it's some kind of conspiracy that diesel cars are everywhere in Europe but are extremely rare in Canada. The reason for this is actually very technical; it's not laws and it's not a conspiracy. Diesel engines are incredibly hard to start in cold weather. Your standard gasoline Honda Civic will fire up the first time it turns over in -40 weather, but you can't do that with a diesel engine. Diesel fuel tends to gel at low temperatures, and it doesn't work when it's like that. It will even gel in the fuel tank while the engine is running which can cause the engine to die. Can you imagine buying a car like that? It's running fine then it just suddenly dies like it ran out of fuel even though the tank is full?
Diesel vehicles have all kinds of bullshit to deal with this. Special heating plugs in the engine, in the fuel tank, insulation around the tank, recommend you plug the vehicle in before starting, etc. These vehicles suck.

To put it into perspective of why your British diesel car won't work in Canada. London, England's average low temperature is 36F (2.4C) in January. Edmonton, Canada's average low temperature is 3F (-16C) and the lowest on record is -48F (-44C). Hitting -22F (-30C) at night and in early morning is very common in January. Have fun not getting to work on time.

Are you posting a myth or a fact? Fact: Diesel has additives in the winter to keep them from gelling. It's adjusted, depending on the local climate. It's easy to prevent diesel from gelling down to about -30F. I'm not sure how much lower they're able to go.