Autozone Rotors: Any real difference between valucraft and duralast?

[Ns1]

Replacing pads/rotors this weekend on a 99 camry, the options are autozone are below. Is duralast worth the +$14 difference?

Valucraft/Brake Rotor - Front
Click to View Details
Part Number: 3291B
Alternate Part Number: MR3291
Warranty: 1 YR

Notes: Recommend replacement in pairs.

Price: $29.99
Part Number: 3291B
Weight: 13.0 lbs
Warranty: 1 YR
Notes: Rotor onlyRecommend replacement in pairs.
Bolt Pattern Diameter (mm): 114.3
Brake Rotor/Disc Bore Diameter (mm): 62
Brake Rotor/Disc Initial Thickness (mm): 28
Brake Rotor/Disc Outside Diameter (mm): 255
Brake Rotor/Disc Overall Depth (mm): 49.4
Color / Finish: Gray
Drilled: No
Lug Stud / Bolt Count: 5
Maximum Discard Thickness (mm): 26
Package Quantity: 1
Primary Bolt Pattern: 5x114.3 / 5x4.5
Rotor Directional Format: Non-Directional
Rotor Material: Primary materials include pig iron & scrap steel
Rotor Type: 1-Piece
Slotted: No
Vented Rotor/Disc: Yes
Shipping Information: Overnight and Two Day shipping are not available for PO Box, APO/FPO/DPO or US Territory addresses.



Duralast/Brake Rotor - Front
Click to View Details
Part Number: 3291
Alternate Part Number: 125222
Warranty: 2 YR

Notes: Recommend replacement in pairs.

Price: $43.99
Part Number: 3291
Weight: 14.0 lbs
Warranty: 2 YR
Notes: Rotor onlyRecommend replacement in pairs.
Bolt Pattern Diameter (mm): 114.3
Brake Rotor/Disc Bore Diameter (mm): 62
Brake Rotor/Disc Initial Thickness (mm): 28.00
Brake Rotor/Disc Outside Diameter (mm): 255
Brake Rotor/Disc Overall Depth (mm): 49.3
Color / Finish: Metallic
Drilled: No
Lug Stud / Bolt Count: 5
Maximum Discard Thickness (mm): 26.00
Package Quantity: 1
Primary Bolt Pattern: 5x114.3 / 5x4.5
Rotor Directional Format: Non-Directional
Rotor Material: Iron Alloy
Rotor Type: 1-Piece
Slotted: No
Vented Rotor/Disc: Yes
Shipping Information: Overnight and Two Day shipping are not available for PO Box, APO/FPO/DPO or US Territory addresses.

 

[jagec]

For an old camry, no real reason to get the more expensive rotors.

 

[SpatiallyAware]

I have personally gotten to where I only use napa premium/gold rotors and pads on commuter type cars.

Even cheap cars need good brakes, cheap or not, the extra few feet of stopping distance is well worth an extra $50 over the life of the pads and rotors.

 

[jagec]

I have personally gotten to where I only use napa premium/gold rotors and pads on commuter type cars.

Even cheap cars need good brakes, cheap or not, the extra few feet of stopping distance is well worth an extra $50 over the life of the pads and rotors.

Yes, but then why not get even more expensive pads+rotors? Why not install a big-brake kit? Why not sell the commuter car and buy an old sports car in the same price range?

 

[SpatiallyAware]

Yes, but then why not get even more expensive pads+rotors? Why not install a big-brake kit? Why not sell the commuter car and buy an old sports car in the same price range?

Mainly because autozone brakes are about $100 for everything, napa premium is ~$150, and a big brake kit would be $1500 minimum along with expensive pad changes and maintenance.


Aside from that Napa stuff is generally as good or better than oem while autozone parts are almost always inferior.

I've found that this transfers to electrical parts as well.. Napa products last longer and are exact or better than oem spec. I've dealt with sensors from autozone that were out of OEM allowable range right out of the box, most won't throw a code but are way off.

I know they have lifetime warranty, but if it costs me 2mpg over the years it adds up. If you're selling the car then maybe, but in my experience it's generally worth the extra money for the amount of use you get of out the car.


Edit: Also, you don't drive your 'old sports car' in the rain. If anything, your commuter car should be the one with good brakes and tires. It doesn't make sense to cheap out on the vehicle you always drive in adverse conditions.

 

[jagec]

Edit: Also, you don't drive your 'old sports car' in the rain.

Maybe YOU don't...I certainly did.

I'm partially playing devil's advocate, but still...my point is that people who buy commuter cars (especially with "efficiency" tires!) have clearly prioritized price, fuel economy, and reliability over handling and braking. While I'm not going to criticize someone for spending a bit more money to get a bit more performance, everyone has a level of sacrifice that they're comfortable with, and I don't think that the oft-repeated argument that "an extra $50 might save your life" is that helpful. It may have been true in a tiny number of cases, but the chances that those extra few feet would ever make a difference are so vanishingly small that for most people, spending that $50 on multivitamins instead and leaving an extra few feet of following distance would make more logical sense.

 

[SpatiallyAware]

Maybe YOU don't...I certainly did.

I'm partially playing devil's advocate, but still...my point is that people who buy commuter cars (especially with "efficiency" tires!) have clearly prioritized price, fuel economy, and reliability over handling and braking. While I'm not going to criticize someone for spending a bit more money to get a bit more performance, everyone has a level of sacrifice that they're comfortable with, and I don't think that the oft-repeated argument that "an extra $50 might save your life" is that helpful. It may have been true in a tiny number of cases, but the chances that those extra few feet would ever make a difference are so vanishingly small that for most people, spending that $50 on multivitamins instead and leaving an extra few feet of following distance would make more logical sense.

I understand your point, but when we're talking about $50 additional for very noticeable difference in stopping power and distance it is one of those tiny number of cases where you should spend the extra money.. Just like tires. Yes it's $50 or $100, but this is spread over years and years. Unless you are truly strapped for cash these are the times where it's worth it.

 

[bbs lm-r]

If possible, I'd vote neither; Rockauto FTW. I did a relative's front pads/rotors recently and got some nice Raybestos pads and rotors for slightly less than Napa stuff.

 

[Howard]

I get good pads and cheap rotors. I don't see that expensive rotors are any better, even for the small increase in price.

 

[brainhulk]

2 year warranty on rotors...sweet. any track guys use the duralast rotors and warranty them after they crack? LoL

 

[dawp]

I avoid autozone. I've had more wrong parts from them then other retailers. nothing worse that having it all apart an discovering they sold you the wrong part and having to go back and exchange it for the right one.

 

[jagec]

I understand your point, but when we're talking about $50 additional for very noticeable difference in stopping power and distance it is one of those tiny number of cases where you should spend the extra money.. Just like tires. Yes it's $50 or $100, but this is spread over years and years. Unless you are truly strapped for cash these are the times where it's worth it.

But is that true for rotors?

 

[T2urtle]

To answer the OP, that $14 is most likely better paint and they get a second pass in the quaility department. But most likely same rotors.

I get my rotors from amazon. They stock centric rotors for cheap and offer free shipping. I trust the centric brand because they offer higher end rotors like stop tech and bbk. I get their cheapest rotor, I hope they use some of their r and d with stop tech and spread it all down the line. No prof of this but it'd something I hope.

Centric ctek rotors could be cheaper then your auto one price.

 

[yhelothar]

Do better rotors help you stop faster? In my experience, it isn't too difficult to lock up the wheels even with cheap worn out rotors.

My understanding of cheap rotors, however, is their proneness to overheat. If you go down a long hill, the cheap rotor is very liable to overheating.

Don't quote me on this though.

 

[SpatiallyAware]

If possible, I'd vote neither; Rockauto FTW. I did a relative's front pads/rotors recently and got some nice Raybestos pads and rotors for slightly less than Napa stuff.

I agree, to save a few bucks it's worth it if you can wait for shipping and don't care about potential returns. I order a lot of stuff from rockauto but I still get brakes from napa.

 

[SpatiallyAware]

Do better rotors help you stop faster? In my experience, it isn't too difficult to lock up the wheels even with cheap worn out rotors.

My understanding of cheap rotors, however, is their proneness to overheat. If you go down a long hill, the cheap rotor is very liable to overheating.

Don't quote me on this though.

Yes, they do.

There's more to it than just overheating ('fading'), there's a small threshold between 'braking 99%' and actually locking them up. It's easier to stay in that small threshold with quality rotors, the actual material is clearly different. This is more obvious on some cars than others.

Aside from that, something like a 99 camry likely has small brakes anyway and would benefit even further from a better/heavier rotor. Even in the op's autozone example the premium rotor is 1lb heavier. You're correct, a cheap rotor is more likely to fade and warp if abused (like people who drag the brakes down an entire offramp from 80mph down to stopped without ever letting up).

 

[SpatiallyAware]

To answer the OP, that $14 is most likely better paint and they get a second pass in the quaility department. But most likely same rotors.

I get my rotors from amazon. They stock centric rotors for cheap and offer free shipping. I trust the centric brand because they offer higher end rotors like stop tech and bbk. I get their cheapest rotor, I hope they use some of their r and d with stop tech and spread it all down the line. No prof of this but it'd something I hope.

Centric ctek rotors could be cheaper then your auto one price.

Definitely not just paint.. There's even a listed weight difference between the two. Name brand but cheap rotors are likely much better than the dirt cheap autozone stuff.

 

[SpatiallyAware]

But is that true for rotors?

In my experience, yes, it also applies to rotors.

Edit: I would like to add that 10 years ago this didn't matter... The seemingly only difference was warranty. Nowadays there is a definite difference in stopping power and feel between different rotors.

 

[imagoon]

My MX-6 years ago seemed to love warping autozone rotors. Finally bought Napa ones to resolve that "issue." Since then I have been buying them at the dealer for the Speed6. Original brakes got about 50k, new ones seem to be spot on for 50k... MX-6 at the time seemed to need new brakes every 10k. The "lifetime warranty" saved me a few bucks on the pads but seemed to waste more of my time.

 

[Raizinman]

All rotors have certain safety built in. It would not take more that a few lawsuites of rotors coming apart to put any company out of business. As a general rule, cheap cars get cheap rotors. Grandma type driven cars get cheap rotors. Fuel efficient cars get cheap rotors.

 

[SpatiallyAware]

All rotors have certain safety built in. It would not take more that a few lawsuites of rotors coming apart to put any company out of business. As a general rule, cheap cars get cheap rotors. Grandma type driven cars get cheap rotors. Fuel efficient cars get cheap rotors.

There's a difference between the new "thin" rotors that can't be turned and bottom of the barrel autozone rotors. The way most grandmas drive their cars, I would definitely say get better rotors (grandma usually doesn't let the brakes cool off, dragging brake, etc).


And as far as cheap cars getting cheap rotors.. I dunno, in my opinion I would want better brakes on the 'barely able to get by' brakes versus something like an F150 with big brakes where you could skimp on parts a bit.

I don't know about safety being built in either. I have firsthand seen autozone rotors warp and crack from one or two hard stops. The only serious brake failure I've seen was over 10 years ago with autozone rotors and pads; I had to stop VERY quickly from 80mph all the way to a stop and actually hit the person in front of me (car had abs but front tires completely locked up). It turned out that the pad material actually melted onto the rotor surface, I had to have the car towed home as it wasn't drivable.

Long story short state farm ended up getting reimbursed from some company who makes the pads (they were duralast but manuf by someone else) and refunded my deductible. It turned out that the pads were recalled at the time I purchased them yet autozone didn't remove them from the shelf.


There are lots of things where I feel like it's debatable to skimp on.. expensive oil, coolant, filters that sort of thing is up to you and ok to risk the cheap stuff. But when you're talking brakes and tires you need to use quality parts as your life directly depends on their performance.

 

[Ns1]

No consensus here I see lol

I'd buy from amazon if I could but I need these tomorrow so I need to go local. Napa has quite a few different brands, autozone only has 2.



I'm not going to buy brembo blanks/hawk HPS for the camry (although my gf does drive quite "spirited" on it)

 

[SpatiallyAware]

No consensus here I see lol

I'd buy from amazon if I could but I need these tomorrow so I need to go local. Napa has quite a few different brands, autozone only has 2.



I'm not going to buy brembo blanks/hawk HPS for the camry (although my gf does drive quite "spirited" on it)

Napa sells a bunch of brands but I would stick with their house brand.. 'Napa Ultra Premium'.. Or you can get one step down 'Napa Premium' for $40. Ultra premium pads are $60 for all 4.

So assuming it's a 4cyl;

Napa Ultra Premium: $150
Cheapest brakes from autozone: $100

Being that it's your GF's car I would personally definitely get the napa parts.

 

[SpatiallyAware]

Also buy a couple cans of brake cleaner and use a toothbrush to knock the grime off the calipers and hub where the disc seats, as well as synth grease for the caliper slides (be sure to clean them out really well)

Let us know if you need any other brake job tips.

 

[SpatiallyAware]

Valucraft/Brake Rotor - Front

Price: $29.99

Rotor Material: Primary materials include pig iron & scrap steel



Duralast/Brake Rotor - Front

Price: $43.99

Rotor Material: Iron Alloy

I removed some extra info from your op... Look at the rotor material differences.