Battery Jump Starters

[thestrangebrew1]

My truck battery died and it's getting covered under warranty tomorrow. Rather than running cables between cars, I was looking to just get a jump starter. I'm leaning towards a Viking 2000 that has 1000 peak amps. Looking at specs for my truck battery, a quick google AI response was to find a jumper that has at least 650-750 cold cranking amps. Are peak and cc amps basically the same? So this should be fine?

Link to product: https://www.harborfreight.com/2000-peak-amp-lithium-ion-jump-starter-and-power-bank-59491.html

Yea I know harbor freight, but it's got good reviews so far. Was going to throw this in the auto sub but figured I'd get more eyes. Also, for storage it says 104 degrees. In summer, the truck will get hotter than that. These lithium ion batteries ok to store in those temps during the summer? Kinda pointless to have to take them out and then actually need it and not have it lol

 

[lxskllr]

I use a HF jump box(older version than that), and it works great. I've used it on ≤5L trucks. Can't vouch for anything bigger, and I don't know exact specs off hand, but probably worse than that one.

 

[Red Squirrel]

I have a NOCO one from Canadian Tire. The trick is to use "bypass mode" though, if you use the normal mode it does some weird stuff where it turns the relay on and off and doesn't apply full power all the time.

At one point I was looking at building my own before I discovered the bypass mode and the hardware needed to push the kind of amps needed to start a car was starting to get quite big and expensive. No idea how they do it in such a small package.

 

[dullard]

I bought this $99.99 Gooloo GT3000 (3000 Amp) to jump start my wife's Forester when we are on vacation in southern Utah 50+ miles (2 to 3 hour drive) from the nearest village with no cell service (plus getting someone to come out would cost $1000+). Luckily, I have never needed it to jump start her car. So, I cannot say if it works well or not for that function. https://us.gooloo.com/products/gt-3000?variant=41961079800004

But, I do really like it for all the other features. It charges everything we need charged on the trips, runs a 12 V fan to dry off our clothes, a great camp light, etc. We end up using it all the time on all camping trips. Plus, it goes to 140 F.

And, yes batteries mean their listed temperature limits. So, be careful in summer time--I take it out of her car during July/August and store it in the garage (Still can jump start her when at home, even if it won't do anything while shopping if it is in the garage, not that batteries die much when hot, they usually die when cold). 104 F would not cut it.

They make a $60 version if you don't want a screen and up to $120 4500 Amp if you have a large truck. https://us.gooloo.com/products/ge4500?variant=42322758238404

Plus, it is $15 off your first order of the prices posted above. And sometimes Amazon has even better pricing.

 

[nakedfrog]

My truck battery died and it's getting covered under warranty tomorrow. Rather than running cables between cars, I was looking to just get a jump starter. I'm leaning towards a Viking 2000 that has 1000 peak amps. Looking at specs for my truck battery, a quick google AI response was to find a jumper that has at least 650-750 cold cranking amps. Are peak and cc amps basically the same? So this should be fine?

Link to product: https://www.harborfreight.com/2000-peak-amp-lithium-ion-jump-starter-and-power-bank-59491.html

Yea I know harbor freight, but it's got good reviews so far. Was going to throw this in the auto sub but figured I'd get more eyes. Also, for storage it says 104 degrees. In summer, the truck will get hotter than that. These lithium ion batteries ok to store in those temps during the summer? Kinda pointless to have to take them out and then actually need it and not have it lol

You'd probably be better off with a lead acid one instead of lithium ion then.

 

[lxskllr]

My lithium batteries get hot. It's MD hot, so not like the deep south, but it's still damned hot. 95° isn't uncommon, then whatever it gets in a closed vehicle. No problems so far, but you don't want to store it in the window or anything.

edit:
If you're in the asshole of Texas or something like that, storing it in a small cooler /might/ cut the temps enough. Put some other car tools in there also. Would be a good storage box anyway.

 

[Muse]

I have 2 pairs of jumper cables (I think) but I keep one in the trunk at all times. Had to use it a couple weeks ago when the battery went to 0.00 according to my multimeters. Got a neighbor to jump it. I figured it for a fault in my alarm system, which hasn't worked properly for a few years and was giving me problems allowing me to start the car for a few weeks. I had the system ripped out a week ago and bought a new one at Best Buy over the weekend (Viper 3105v), which they will install in 3 weeks.

The battery may be draining now, hard to say. Been checking the voltage daily (haven't been driving the car). Around 3-4 days ago was at 12.77, last night was 12.28. I then put a charger on the battery.

I figure now that the battery going to zero may have been a stuck relay, so who knows what caused it? Anyway, a new and working alarm system with lifetime warranty to original buyer (which I wasn't with the old system) seems a good idea.

 

[nakedfrog]

I have 2 pairs of jumper cables (I think) but I keep one in the trunk at all times. Had to use it a couple weeks ago when the battery went to 0.00 according to my multimeters. Got a neighbor to jump it. I figured it for a fault in my alarm system, which hasn't worked properly for a few years and was giving me problems allowing me to start the car for a few weeks. I had the system ripped out a week ago and bought a new one at Best Buy over the weekend (Viper 3105v), which they will install in 3 weeks.

The battery may be draining now, hard to say. Been checking the voltage daily (haven't been driving the car). Around 3-4 days ago was at 12.77, last night was 12.28. I then put a charger on the battery.

I figure now that the battery going to zero may have been a stuck relay, so who knows what caused it? Anyway, a new and working alarm system with lifetime warranty to original buyer (which I wasn't with the old system) seems a good idea.

If you've got a multimeter and know how to use it, you can check for parasitic drain to see if it's within normal limits, quite a few guides out there. I have an older car that has too much parasitic drain, probably because of the slapdash way various aftermarket accessories were installed. Rather than figure it out, I just installed a battery cut-off switch a few years ago.

 

[purbeast0]

I just got rid of my 2008 G37S that is a V6 and it had issues like the past year where the battery would flat out lose juice. I had a battery charger at home for a battery that I used on an inflatable boat so I'd have to charge it at home like every week or so.

But I got this to get me out of binds and it worked flawlessly every single time. It would start RIGHT up.

Amazon.com

I believe I used it 3x once without charging it between and it was still at like 90% charge left.

 

[lxskllr]

I got one these from the thriftshop, brand new in box. $10...

https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GB40-UltraSafe-Lithium-Starter/dp/B015TKUPIC/135-1312748-8111639?psc=1

It works ok, but I like the harborfreight unit better.

 

[NutBucket]

I still use the lead-acid based ones. Admittedly larger but hey, you can cheaply and easily replace the cell as needed. Has served my purposes just fine.

 

[Muse]

If you've got a multimeter and know how to use it, you can check for parasitic drain to see if it's within normal limits, quite a few guides out there. I have an older car that has too much parasitic drain, probably because of the slapdash way various aftermarket accessories were installed. Rather than figure it out, I just installed a battery cut-off switch a few years ago.

I suppose the vehicle's clock won't keep time and radio won't remember presets if you cut off the battery all the time.

Will have to look up checking parasitic drain.

 

[thestrangebrew1]

I went ahead and picked up the one I linked because I need to get it started tomorrow to drive to the dealership for my appointment. At work right now so won't be able to test it till tonight sometime, but the weather is about to change and start raining any minute. Probably don't want to mess with it in the rain and I don't have space in the garage for the truck...

 

[Torn Mind]

Get a Battery Minder and if possible, buy an East Penn/Deka battery, not Exide or Clarios(formerly Johnson Controls).

Lead acid jumpers usually employ some Lead acid battery of some size; the very same that might be in a UPS or something.

I'd rather go for a similarly priced Dewalt Li-ion or a Jump-N-Carry Lead Acid, although I've used neither.

DEWALT 1600 Peak Amp Lithium Jump Starter with USB Power Bank DXAELJ16 - The Home Depot

Crank your engine and charge various devices with the help of this highly durable DEWALT Amp Lithium Jump Starter with USB Power Bank.

www.homedepot.com

Advance Auto Parts - Down for Maintenance

I recall Project Farm doing an older comparison video. Gooloo did well then.

 

[Charmonium]

For future readers of the thread - look for lithium jumpers that have detachable cables (usually one is longer than the other to prevent accidental sparking) and lockout for times to don't connect the correct cable to the correct battery post. I don't assume that I'm always going to be focused enough to not make a mistake.

 

[thestrangebrew1]

@Torn Mind I saw a comparison review on a few jumpers and the Dewalt was pretty low in the overall ranking. Maybe not that specific model, but it looks the same. I can't remember what the criteria was or why the reviewer rated it so low. Surprisingly the Viking I linked was the highest rated.

I was able to get the truck started this morning and drove around for about 30 mins. We'll see if it holds a charge long enough for me to head to the dealer in a few hours. I charged the jumper to 100% and when I fired it up, the battery had 91% left, so I'm plugging it in again to get back to 100%. I kinda want to see how long it'll last on a single charge but can't really mess with it since I have my appt lol

 

[nOOky]

We have 3 of these, one in each of our vehicles. I like the detachable leads, the boost button, and the fact that it has a light and can charge a bunch of other stuff also. After using it twice the battery is still almost 90% full, so I doubt it will ever run out if you keep it fully charged. I keep mine in a tote in the back of my vehicle, no issues from storing it there yet.

Amazon.com

 

[Torn Mind]

@Torn Mind I saw a comparison review on a few jumpers and the Dewalt was pretty low in the overall ranking. Maybe not that specific model, but it looks the same. I can't remember what the criteria was or why the reviewer rated it so low. Surprisingly the Viking I linked was the highest rated.

I was able to get the truck started this morning and drove around for about 30 mins. We'll see if it holds a charge long enough for me to head to the dealer in a few hours. I charged the jumper to 100% and when I fired it up, the battery had 91% left, so I'm plugging it in again to get back to 100%. I kinda want to see how long it'll last on a single charge but can't really mess with it since I have my appt lol

I guess it can work out for now. It's LiFePO4, which has the greatest longevity out of Lithium-based cells.

I will stick by my advice to get an East Penn battery, however, to avoid needing a jump to begin with. They build batteries that handle stress and don't leak from the posts. They do have a supplier store in San Jose. They also sell in some Walmarts, Batteries+Bulbs, O'Reillys. I even got one junkyard one that has AAA labeling.
I think the one in my mom's car is 5 years old and still starts up, and it's been subjected to abuse(i.e late changing the serpentine belt to the point of undercharging it)

 

[Muse]

I went ahead and picked up the one I linked because I need to get it started tomorrow to drive to the dealership for my appointment. At work right now so won't be able to test it till tonight sometime, but the weather is about to change and start raining any minute. Probably don't want to mess with it in the rain and I don't have space in the garage for the truck...

Sounds familiar. My battery went to 0.00 volts about 3 weeks ago, inexplicably (I figure now maybe a relay got stuck, who knows which?), although I figured it was probably my for-years only semi functional security/alarm/lock control system at fault (um, maybe). Had that system ripped out a week ago and bought a Viper 3105v one-way alarm, etc. system from Best Buy, who are scheduled to install it in 3 weeks. Meantime, the battery's losing about 0.2 volts a day while the car is undriven and sits in my driveway. Two days ago my multimeter had it reading 12.28 volts, with deluge predicted for yesterday so ahead of that I slammed on my AC powered $30 charger bought from Kragen around 15 years ago. That should get it up over 12.7 volts easily and I know I can start and run the car. Once the new alarm system is installed, will see if battery holds a charge. If not, I guess I'll need to have the car checked out for mystery battery drain.

Uh, one day around 2-3 years ago the horn went off in the middle of the night and my neighbor woke me up with a phone call and I had to unhook the battery to stop it! Don't know why it happened. It hasn't happened again, but I figured it would and left tools in the car just in case. 1997 Mazda sedan with 36k.

 

[NutBucket]

I wouldn't trust Best Buy to install an alarm. If you really think it is necessary, find a proper installer or you may end up worse off then when you started.
Actually I wouldn't let Best Buy near any car for any reason...

 

[Torn Mind]

Sounds familiar. My battery went to 0.00 volts about 3 weeks ago, inexplicably (I figure now maybe a relay got stuck, who knows which?), although I figured it was probably my for-years only semi functional security/alarm/lock control system at fault (um, maybe). Had that system ripped out a week ago and bought a Viper 3105v one-way alarm, etc. system from Best Buy, who are scheduled to install it in 3 weeks. Meantime, the battery's losing about 0.2 volts a day while the car is undriven and sits in my driveway. Two days ago my multimeter had it reading 12.28 volts, with deluge predicted for yesterday so ahead of that I slammed on my AC powered $30 charger bought from Kragen around 15 years ago. That should get it up over 12.7 volts easily and I know I can start and run the car. Once the new alarm system is installed, will see if battery holds a charge. If not, I guess I'll need to have the car checked out for mystery battery drain.

Uh, one day around 2-3 years ago the horn went off in the middle of the night and my neighbor woke me up with a phone call and I had to unhook the battery to stop it! Don't know why it happened. It hasn't happened again, but I figured it would and left tools in the car just in case. 1997 Mazda sedan with 36k.

I think the Ford gremlins are starting to manifest. Mazda used to partner with Ford. Or some device has failed and is now causing severe parasitic draw.

The horn going off on its own could very well be bad grounds, starting with the battery cable itself. I had a Toyota Matrix automatically lock the locks. The negative cable had suffered corrosion because the True-2 Toyota batteries sucked and leaked. Swapped out the cable with a marine tinned one from a guy in AZ, and thicker gauge(4). Problem Eliminated. Cable is grounded to an engine bolt. I think I have a thread on that years ago here, in fact.

 

[Muse]

I wouldn't trust Best Buy to install an alarm. If you really think it is necessary, find a proper installer or you may end up worse off then when you started.
Actually I wouldn't let Best Buy near any car for any reason...

Yeah. Well, the place my top rated mechanic sent me to wanted $550 (probably tax on top of that) for the same system with them installing it. They said they'd solder the connections and warranty for life. But Best Buy's warranty is also for life. If it stops working, I suppose they'll fix it but may have to wait a while. Best Buy's price was $242.54 including tax and installation. That's over $300 less! "Trust?" More than double the price for some extra trust? Dunno. I asked them if I bought the system elsewhere would they install it for me for a price? They said they would but would not warranty the work and if further work was needed I'd have to pay the labor. I didn't bother looking for a better deal on just the 3105v sans installation but then found Best Buy's purchase including installation bundle by accident, watching a YT video. The guy doing the video said the installation was way over his head but BB did it and he had no complaints that he mentioned.

Best Buy said it would take 2 1/2 hours. I figure to talk to the installer and ask for assurance that he installs the included kill switch relay and demo it to me so I know it works. I'll ask him if he'll solder connections but figure he may say he won't because it's not part of their system. I'm OK with that but figure I should ask.

I figure he's probably installed a bunch of these.

I'm gonna bring a couple of optional extra sensors, one a shock sensor, the other an audio sensor to detect breaking glass. People say the shock sensor of the 3105v isn't sensitive enough even when set at maximum sensitivity. If he won't install extra or alternate sensor(s), I hope I'll learn enough to be able to install them myself. I bought them off Amazon.

I'm also going to bring the horn from my just ripped-out Crime Guard alarm. It's apparently somewhat bigger than the Viper's and likely louder. Several reviewers of the Viper system said it wasn't very loud. OK with some folks, not with others. If the Viper's system is louder with my old horn, why not use it? Hopefully the Best Buy's installer is loose enough to roll with my plans/ideas.

 

[Muse]

I think the Ford gremlins are starting to manifest. Mazda used to partner with Ford. Or some device has failed and is now causing severe parasitic draw.

The horn going off on its own could very well be bad grounds, starting with the battery cable itself. I had a Toyota Matrix automatically lock the locks. The negative cable had suffered corrosion because the True-2 Toyota batteries sucked and leaked. Swapped out the cable with a marine tinned one from a guy in AZ, and thicker gauge(4). Problem Eliminated. Cable is grounded to an engine bolt. I think I have a thread on that years ago here, in fact.

I am about to buy the Gooloo jumper/charger system. I figure it's cheap insurance and has multiple potential uses. I wonder how long its rechargeable battery will last. Meantime I'll monitor my car battery's voltage. The battery is fairly new and in good shape. Yeah, there may be a continual parasitic drain in there somewhere. The shop guy I talked to on the phone said the data didn't say that. Only time will tell if I don't bring it in, but right now I figure I have to assume things might be OK unless and until I have another problem.

 

[nOOky]

I am about to buy the Gooloo jumper/charger system. I figure it's cheap insurance and has multiple potential uses. I wonder how long its rechargeable battery will last. Meantime I'll monitor my car battery's voltage. The battery is fairly new and in good shape. Yeah, there may be a continual parasitic drain in there somewhere. The shop guy I talked to on the phone said the data didn't say that. Only time will tell if I don't bring it in, but right now I figure I have to assume things might be OK unless and until I have another problem.

The jump batteries are pretty handy for helping others also, no way I'm ever using jumper cables again. Up north it could come in handy if I'm stuck in the car for extended periods of time like sliding off a rural road. My winter kit now includes the battery, multiple charging cables, along with the usual extra winter items like a couple energy bars, blanket, and water etc.

 

[Muse]

The jump batteries are pretty handy for helping others also, no way I'm ever using jumper cables again. Up north it could come in handy if I'm stuck in the car for extended periods of time like sliding off a rural road. My winter kit now includes the battery, multiple charging cables, along with the usual extra winter items like a couple energy bars, blanket, and water etc.

Doesn't freeze where I live but I keep emergency stuff in the car partly because it's earthquake country and my house was built about 1910 and I could need stuff in the car and/or garage. I have a Coleman stove in the garage and some food! In the car, blanket, shoes, sweatshirt, water, food, I think a blanket.

This one's $10 more than the GP3000:

GT3000

I'm deliberating. Gooloo has a big bunch of offerings so deciding is not easy.