Belial's Comprehensive Guide to 7950s!

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Fastx

Senior member
Dec 18, 2008
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Belial as far as I can see with my cards at +20 I am fine with the cards and how they are running/performing/gaming at this point (per my previous posts) no need to hack to go to +50 imo. If and when I detect any throttling in the future then I will perform the hack to go to +50 but no need at this point imo.
 

IEC

Elite Member
Super Moderator
Jun 10, 2004
14,362
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You do need a shim. You will still see a significant performance boost not using one, but foregoing a $1 shipped shim is ridiculous. And using a thermal pad is a really bad idea for IHS to heatsink contact. You use them for adhesion like for small mosfet or vram heatsinks.

My die isn't recessed on the Powercolor 7950 Boost. Using a copper shim would not help.

Furthermore, there is no "IHS" on a 7950...

Rather than going naked die --> TIM --> shim --> TIM --> water block, I did:
naked die --> Fujipoly premium thermal pad (6.0 W/mK) --> water block

Works fine and I overclocked to 1150/1700 with a +20% power limit and have run verified Heaven loops.

Just for kicks, I'll run it with a +50% power limit to test your claims.
 

IEC

Elite Member
Super Moderator
Jun 10, 2004
14,362
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No appreciable difference in Heaven using +50% versus +20%.

Test run with +20% power limit @ 1150/1700:


Test run with +50% power limit @ 1150/1700:


GPU-Z values for core clock, mem clock, and 12V/VDDC/MVDDC all seemed to be flat lines in both instances.
 

Vesku

Diamond Member
Aug 25, 2005
3,743
28
86
If you happen to still be under warranty, very likely for those covered by 3 year or longer warranty periods, I really see no compelling reason to push past +20 power limit.
 

Fastx

Senior member
Dec 18, 2008
780
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IEC nice score and this proves there is no throttling (+20) and/or performance increase running +20 vs. +50 on your 7950 in UV 1.0 per your tests above.
 
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BallaTheFeared

Diamond Member
Nov 15, 2010
8,115
0
71
If you happen to still be under warranty, very likely for those covered by 3 year or longer warranty periods, I really see no compelling reason to push past +20 power limit.

I don't either, I do 1200/1800 with 0% because I modded my bios for 450w base PowerTune
 

Belial88

Senior member
Feb 25, 2011
261
0
0
Belial as far as I can see with my cards at +20 I am fine with the cards and how they are running/performing/gaming at this point (per my previous posts) no need to hack to go to +50 imo. If and when I detect any throttling in the future then I will perform the hack to go to +50 but no need at this point imo.

+20 will still have throttling, just not nearly as much as +0/stock. 7950s run at about 1.3x of the stock AMD defined power limit of 250w (~325w), or +30% power limit.

That said, power draw changes on many factors, and temperatures dramatically affect power draw exponentially. If you don't have a high overclock or voltage, they dont draw as much, or get as hot, so you dont see power limit throttling as hard.

But this is why you keep insisting on no throttling, is so faulty. Heaven and gaming doesn't come close to pushing a GPU. You will still have those moments, and I'm sure you will have moments where utilization will jump to 100%, but between the beginning and end of the load points it will drop and throttle, but you don't notice it. I've told you how to test for throttling, but you insist on not testing it, and then saying you dont notice your ferrari with one blown tire isn't slow.

Also, while you may not get throttling on your current settings in your current low-load programs like games, other factors affect power draw - like I said, temps. All it takes is for a slightly warmer day, about 1-2C warmer, and your power draw can increase ~50w.

So your +20% power limit of 270w, is fine, but because it's 1-2C warmer in your room, and 1c is generally equal to about 20-50w increased energy consumption in modern chips running around the 70C+ temp range (source: see sandy bridge, ivy bridge power consumption vs temperature relationship studies, and sin's IB and HW oc guides, chips mind that you consume much less power too so the difference will be even more dramatic), and you will get throttling with 290w+.

It's not a 'hack', spinning things to try to make a point doesn't mean anything. The 'hack' is really AMD putting a governor of sorts on the card. That's literally what it is, a governor, that limits the full capability of the card.

Now even a lamborghini with a 100mph governor is still a fast car, and it'll still get around... but it's just a lot faster at 200mph. It's the same thing going on here. It's not difficult at all to modify the power limit, just change the registry just like you do for your menu options, and if you dont like it, change it back to +20%. It's not difficult.

It makes no rational sense to not do this. All it's doing is assuring your card will not be throttled if, for any reason, it needs to consume 375w. If the card never wants to consume 375w, good, no problem. If the card does want to consume 375w, then you won't get performance stutter during that crucial moment in a tournament, or while mining, or streaming, or encoding. Now 7950s dont hit 375w, but they do definitely go over 300w, and with +20% you are getting throttling.

+20% Power Limit Throttling:



It's pretty simple Fastx. Back up/Export your registry values if you feel so paranoid (as stated to do in the guide on how to change your power limits) about 'hacking' like one of those bad guys from the movies and RIAA hates so much, change it, test out +50% power limit vs +20 power limit on OCCT GPU Stress test while monitoring your GPU Clocks and GPU Utilization in HWinfo.

You won't do it because you know you are wrong. You don't need to even change your power limit, just observe the throttling in OCCT Error test and Hwinfo.
 
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Belial88

Senior member
Feb 25, 2011
261
0
0
My die isn't recessed on the Powercolor 7950 Boost. Using a copper shim would not help.

Furthermore, there is no "IHS" on a 7950...

Rather than going naked die --> TIM --> shim --> TIM --> water block, I did:
naked die --> Fujipoly premium thermal pad (6.0 W/mK) --> water block

Works fine and I overclocked to 1150/1700 with a +20% power limit and have run verified Heaven loops.

Just for kicks, I'll run it with a +50% power limit to test your claims.

It is recessed, and a copper shim would help. You are wrong, and you would be the only person in the world with a non-recessed 7950. Your powercolor 7950 boost is not a custom PCB even, and you especially did not receive a special, one of a kind 7950 boost.

Yes, there is no IHS on the 7950, I misspoke. It's clear I was referring to heatsink/block to chip contact.

Using Fujipoly will take care of the issue of the gap, being a thermal pad that has a thickness larger than the gap between the cap level and die level, but using fujipoly is worse than using TIM/Shim/TIM. While fujipoly is 'decent' as far as thermal adhesives go, it's nowhere close in real world performance to TIM.

CLU's w/mk's figures are around 80w/mk. Secondly, w/mk figures are unreliable and unverfiied, so they are useless and meaningless unless comparing products from the same company that's using the same testing method. I don't need to get into how w/mk is measured, but basically there's a million ways to do it and a million different results, and companies inflating their w/mk figures is well known, even 'reliable' companies.

Also, w/mk is not the full story - there's also thermal resistance, and fujipoly is extremely thick. The thicker it is, the more resistance, no matter how good the thermal transferrance w/mk is. So something with 0.21 °Cin^2/W thermal resistance, at 1mm, is going to have worse overall thermal trabnsferrance than a TIM with 3w/mk.

You can look up thermal resistance, and stuff like Fourier's laws on this stuff to calculate this stuff more accurately, but you also have to take into account the area (not just depth) as well, which furthermore makes Fujipoly a poor choice as a TIM.

Of course, the rational thing to do is simply try CLU, then try Fujipoly, and compare results, but nah, let's just keep insisting that a known-weak conductor of heat that no one else uses, for good reason, is definitely better.

If you really though Fujipoly would be better than CLU for your GPU, then you should use it for your CPU too. Why, everyone should! Geez, why are so many people so stupid for using CLU and CLP and tims like PK-3 and Gelid instead of Fujipoly and other thermal pads? Hell, it's not just stupid users like myself, it's also stupid companies like Corsair and Coolermaster who ship TIM with their heatsinks instead of thermal pads!

Oh, and I've used Fujipoly, Sekusui, and a whole bunch of other thermal adhesives. I tested Fujipoly vs Sekusui on some RAM, and Sekusui performed a lot better, but I also tested TIMs and it wasn't even close.
 

Belial88

Senior member
Feb 25, 2011
261
0
0
No appreciable difference in Heaven using +50% versus +20%.

Test run with +20% power limit @ 1150/1700:


Test run with +50% power limit @ 1150/1700:


GPU-Z values for core clock, mem clock, and 12V/VDDC/MVDDC all seemed to be flat lines in both instances.

I wouldnt expect a lot of throttling in a program that doesn't stress the GPU heavily. Heaven is not a heavy GPU benchmark, it's a system benchmark made for simulating gaming conditions, which are relatively low load on a system.

Run a proper GPU benchmark like FPS on OCCT or Furmark. You'll see throttling, and reduced FPS.

If you happen to still be under warranty, very likely for those covered by 3 year or longer warranty periods, I really see no compelling reason to push past +20 power limit.

Changing your power limit above +20 does not void warranty. The only way to void warranty on GPUs and only for some companies is to modify the BIOS. Modifying the registry is not modifying the BIOS.

The GPU company also cannot tell if you modified the registry, and there is no way changing the power limit would damage your card anyways (beyond normal usage).

There is plenty of compelling reason to set power limit to 30+.... for increased performance and fps. The same reason you'd rather set it to +20 instead of +0.

IEC nice score and this proves there is no throttling (+20) and/or performance increase running +20 vs. +50 on your 7950 in UV 1.0 per your tests above.



It doesn't prove anything? All it proves is that his 7950 runs like a 7950. I didn't say there was a massive 50% improvement of +50 vs +20. I said +50 vs +0. There is a noticeable improvement of +50 over +20, though. Heaven also isn't a good GPU benchmark, it's a system/gaming benchmark.

It's not a test of your GPU, but your GPU, RAM, CPU, and software altogether. His GPU can still be 10% weaker than a +50 system, but have CPU, RAM, and software make up the difference. Throttling to 600mhz isn't going to dramatically affect a Heaven score since it's composed of so many other factors.

Ive made it pretty clear how to test for throttling.
 

Rikard

Senior member
Apr 25, 2012
428
0
0
You missed my card:
Sapphire Vapor-X
...
Core Voltage: Yes
Memory Voltage: Yes
Memory: Hynix
PCB: Custom 7950 (8+8)

I think the cooler is the same as the other Vapor-X variants. Not voltage locked. No throttling with +20%.
 

Fastx

Senior member
Dec 18, 2008
780
0
0
Belail this will be my last post on this subject/ in this thread. Just so you know I only care about how my cards run during gaming not in BM's like OCCT and Furmark. Like I said so far in gaming +20 seems to be working fine (per previous posts) and even in Heaven BM's so that is good enough for me at this point running +20.
 

MTDEW

Diamond Member
Oct 31, 1999
4,284
37
91
Nifty Gpu vram info check tool - MemoryInfo+
I asked earlier how to get the tool to work.

It turns out it just doesn't work on Win8.1.
I just restored my Win7 image and It works just fine on Win7.

It's not quite as detailed as I'd like, but it's good for identifying which vendor makes your cards memory if you don't already know.
You're still better of looking at the actual chips for actual rated speed though.
 

MTDEW

Diamond Member
Oct 31, 1999
4,284
37
91
Works fine for me under 8.1

Hmmmm... I get nothing but blank boxes in 8.1 with it.
But as I said, when I switch to my Win 7 image it works just fine.
I wonder why.... I know its not driver related cuz I'm using 13.11 beta 9.2 on both OS's here.

Do you still have two cards installed Balla?

Its not really a big deal, it would just be nice to know why it wont recognize mine on 8.1
 
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TheKnowing

Junior Member
Nov 15, 2013
1
0
0
I accidentally alerted your post, I thought you were linking to your own review site. Sorry, there has been a lot of self-promotion/spam in the last two weeks.

Looks like you took some time on the write-up, I will definitely give it a read.

Quite funny you will will red flag before you read ^_^

She has gone to a lot of work on this, has helped me out greatly. Really glad to have signed up and read this.
 

MTDEW

Diamond Member
Oct 31, 1999
4,284
37
91
No just one, per usual second card is doing paper weight duty.

Next time I switch over to 8.1, maybe I'll try disabling X-fire and see if it makes a difference, It doesn't seem to in Win 7 though, so that probably isn't it.
(ie: I think it only reads one card regardless anyway)

Like I said, it's no big deal but now you've got me wondering why.

Ok, I'll stop derailing this thread unless I figure out why....then I'll post it here just in case someone has the same issue and does a search for a solution.
 

Belial88

Senior member
Feb 25, 2011
261
0
0
You missed my card:
Sapphire Vapor-X
...
Core Voltage: Yes
Memory Voltage: Yes
Memory: Hynix
PCB: Custom 7950 (8+8)

I think the cooler is the same as the other Vapor-X variants. Not voltage locked. No throttling with +20%.

Vapor-x is listed. There's no picture because of AT's pic limit so it's easy to miss. I have it 2nd to last, above the Asus model. I did not group it with the Sapphire Dual-x cards because it's a very different card. Sapphire is the only company that has multiple models of the 7950, though like the other companies it has a million revisions of all of them.

It will also throttle at +20% limit.

Belail this will be my last post on this subject/ in this thread. Just so you know I only care about how my cards run during gaming not in BM's like OCCT and Furmark. Like I said so far in gaming +20 seems to be working fine (per previous posts) and even in Heaven BM's so that is good enough for me at this point running +20.

Sure, but in gaming you will still have throttling. It won't be nearly as noticeable as in benchmarks, of course, but you will have an intense moment in a game where the card will drop to ~900mhz for a split second instead of running it's full clock and utilization. At that moment, your fps will drop.

Now your average fps might only be .001fps average lower than otherwise over the (relatively long) period of a game, but the problem is that you dropped in performance during that crucial moment that always matters, that big battle or right when you got into the helicopter or a 200 vs 200 man army end game battle.

There's no logical reason not to simply set your power limit to +50%. I've made it clear how to test for throttling, and it's clear from all the resources on this subject, that I've clearly linked to, that throttling does occur at +20%. It isn't much, and it won't be much in gaming, but it's about utilizing your hardware to the fullest, and making sure you can play your best at the moments that matter the most.

Belial, do you spend alot of your time playing Furmark? I know I dont...

No, I spend most of my time doing GPGPU work and making money with my 7950s (bitcoin is at a high right now, holy crap I've made a lot of money the last few days lol), which is actually much more stressful than Furmark. So I definitely care about this kind of stuff, as it's literally business.

On top of that, I paid $300 for my card. It's not okay to spend $300 for performance that's anything less than what i paid for. Nvidia has a lot of awesome cards too, so either use your card to the fullest or know that you wasted money picking the wrong card.

I work damn hard for my money, and I'm not okay with sub-par performance or products.

I asked earlier how to get the tool to work.

It turns out it just doesn't work on Win8.1.
I just restored my Win7 image and It works just fine on Win7.

It's not quite as detailed as I'd like, but it's good for identifying which vendor makes your cards memory if you don't already know.
You're still better of looking at the actual chips for actual rated speed though.

haha yea, all you gotta do is look under your card (though some models have a plate over all of them). It's still a really nifty tool.

Quite funny you will will red flag before you read

She has gone to a lot of work on this, has helped me out greatly. Really glad to have signed up and read this.

Thanks. I spent a ton of time researching 7950s before I made the purchase, and found it frustrating that there wasn't any resources that aggregated all of it. It's a bit frustrating reading through hundreds of forum posts where every other post says something different about the card. Ultimately, it wasn't even until I wrote this guide that most people became aware that all the 7950 models got revised.

You just had people saying 'The Gigabyte is an awesome card, holy crap!' and then others saying 'wut? I can't change votlage!' with tons of frustrating posts where users were giving advice on how easy it was to adjust the voltage, adn the OP replying they still can't change it and deemed an idiot basically.

Then I bought a sapphire because I thought it had full voltage control, but turned out the newer models didn't have VRAM voltage control or VRM temps, 2 of the most important things for me. So that was really dissapointing. It was also difficult to weed through all the 'This model is A+++" by people who would call anything A+++ simply because it's better than their last card which was a GT8800.

When I released the guide initially, there was a ton of info missing and I really wanted input from people so I could get info on all the cards. Kind of a way for me to get the info I needed, to figure out what card I needed to replace the crappy sapphire I had. I've also had some pretty bad luck with 7950s, I've RMA'd about 4 7950s that were faulty in one way or another too, so on top of me trying and buying multiple models, I got to play with a lot of different revisions and models that way too.
 

MTDEW

Diamond Member
Oct 31, 1999
4,284
37
91
Works fine for me under 8.1

Ok, I restored my 8.1 image.
(I keep an image of a clean install of windows with no video drivers ever installed to ensure clean video driver installs for troubleshooting purposes.)

8.1 with no video drivers installed (just standard VGA adapter) = tool works
8.1 with 13.11 beta v9.2 installed and x-fire enable = tool doesn't work
8.1 with 13.11 beta v9.2 installed and x-fire disabled = tool works

So it seems like it was just an odd combo of 8.1 + 13.11 beta v9.2 and x-fire enabled that caused it for me.

So thanks for the input Balla, otherwise I would have just continued to assume that tool was worthless in 8.1

Anyone know if it works with 290's also?
 

IEC

Elite Member
Super Moderator
Jun 10, 2004
14,362
5,032
136
It is recessed, and a copper shim would help. You are wrong, and you would be the only person in the world with a non-recessed 7950. Your powercolor 7950 boost is not a custom PCB even, and you especially did not receive a special, one of a kind 7950 boost.

Yes, there is no IHS on the 7950, I misspoke. It's clear I was referring to heatsink/block to chip contact.

Using Fujipoly will take care of the issue of the gap, being a thermal pad that has a thickness larger than the gap between the cap level and die level, but using fujipoly is worse than using TIM/Shim/TIM. While fujipoly is 'decent' as far as thermal adhesives go, it's nowhere close in real world performance to TIM.

CLU's w/mk's figures are around 80w/mk. Secondly, w/mk figures are unreliable and unverfiied, so they are useless and meaningless unless comparing products from the same company that's using the same testing method. I don't need to get into how w/mk is measured, but basically there's a million ways to do it and a million different results, and companies inflating their w/mk figures is well known, even 'reliable' companies.

Also, w/mk is not the full story - there's also thermal resistance, and fujipoly is extremely thick. The thicker it is, the more resistance, no matter how good the thermal transferrance w/mk is. So something with 0.21 °Cin^2/W thermal resistance, at 1mm, is going to have worse overall thermal trabnsferrance than a TIM with 3w/mk.

You can look up thermal resistance, and stuff like Fourier's laws on this stuff to calculate this stuff more accurately, but you also have to take into account the area (not just depth) as well, which furthermore makes Fujipoly a poor choice as a TIM.

Of course, the rational thing to do is simply try CLU, then try Fujipoly, and compare results, but nah, let's just keep insisting that a known-weak conductor of heat that no one else uses, for good reason, is definitely better.

If you really though Fujipoly would be better than CLU for your GPU, then you should use it for your CPU too. Why, everyone should! Geez, why are so many people so stupid for using CLU and CLP and tims like PK-3 and Gelid instead of Fujipoly and other thermal pads? Hell, it's not just stupid users like myself, it's also stupid companies like Corsair and Coolermaster who ship TIM with their heatsinks instead of thermal pads!

Oh, and I've used Fujipoly, Sekusui, and a whole bunch of other thermal adhesives. I tested Fujipoly vs Sekusui on some RAM, and Sekusui performed a lot better, but I also tested TIMs and it wasn't even close.

My cooling appears to be limited by how quickly my radiator can dissipate heat. The Fujipoly at 0.5mm thick is plenty to have proper die contact with my CLC water block. For the sake of comparison, I did try using TIM+shim+TIM, but it made no appreciable difference for me in idle or load temps. For reference, the shim was an EK 7970 copper shim and the TIM was Arctic MX-2, properly applied.

Cooling aside, I will concede that for pathological loads (read: Furmark) a higher power limit can be of benefit. I experimentally determined that a power limit of 50% (or actually, even 40%, YMMV) will prevent throttling versus a power limit of 20%. However, I would caution the average user who doesn't have proper cooling of GPU and VRMs against doing this, as even with my overkill VRM cooling (heatsinks + 120mm Scythe fan @ 90%) I was hitting 79C on the VRMs under Furmark as opposed to staying under 60C.

50% and 40% were within margin of error of each other, with no observable throttling in Furmark or in GPU-Z.

50%:


40%:


30% and 20% were hitting power limits and thus being throttled back.

30%:


20%:


Given my previous Heaven benchmark results showing negligible differences between 50% and 20% power limits and displaying no evidence of throttling in GPU-Z, I still wouldn't use 50% power limits for gaming without extreme cooling. For pathological use cases like Furmark or extreme benchmarking, it seems to eliminate another variable and can be used with proper cooling.
 

Bubbleawsome

Diamond Member
Apr 14, 2013
4,833
1,204
146
How much power draw have we gotten from a 7950 at 1.3v? I was planning a 7950 overclocked 1.3vcore unlimited power tune type upgrade because they are going out of stock, but I only have a 550w psu.
 

IEC

Elite Member
Super Moderator
Jun 10, 2004
14,362
5,032
136
Why are we talking about Furmark again?

Because OP insists that 50% power limit is a must. I contend it only makes a difference for pathological use cases like Furmark, and demonstrated that in Unigine Valley (i.e. gaming) it makes no appreciable difference +50% versus +20%. Whereas it did make an appreciable difference in Furmark (lol).
 

Belial88

Senior member
Feb 25, 2011
261
0
0
My cooling appears to be limited by how quickly my radiator can dissipate heat. The Fujipoly at 0.5mm thick is plenty to have proper die contact with my CLC water block. For the sake of comparison, I did try using TIM+shim+TIM, but it made no appreciable difference for me in idle or load temps. For reference, the shim was an EK 7970 copper shim and the TIM was Arctic MX-2, properly applied.

Cooling aside, I will concede that for pathological loads (read: Furmark) a higher power limit can be of benefit. I experimentally determined that a power limit of 50% (or actually, even 40%, YMMV) will prevent throttling versus a power limit of 20%. However, I would caution the average user who doesn't have proper cooling of GPU and VRMs against doing this, as even with my overkill VRM cooling (heatsinks + 120mm Scythe fan @ 90%) I was hitting 79C on the VRMs under Furmark as opposed to staying under 60C.

50% and 40% were within margin of error of each other, with no observable throttling in Furmark or in GPU-Z.

50%:


40%:


30% and 20% were hitting power limits and thus being throttled back.

30%:


20%:


Given my previous Heaven benchmark results showing negligible differences between 50% and 20% power limits and displaying no evidence of throttling in GPU-Z, I still wouldn't use 50% power limits for gaming without extreme cooling. For pathological use cases like Furmark or extreme benchmarking, it seems to eliminate another variable and can be used with proper cooling.

Dude... saying 'well it stays cool when I use X' is not evidence for X > Y. Also, MX-2 is not a modern nor high end paste. I mean you realize it's a 6 year old paste right, that wasn't even top of the line when it came out?

That's exactly like saying "Well I think the 7770 is way better than the R9 290x, because I tested it against the GeForce 8800!" There is no logic there at all. Sorry dude, but no one uses Fujipoly on there graphics cards or CPUs for a reason. You don't even use fujipoly on your CPU, because it's borderline retarded.

It's a thermal adhesive, it's an awesome tool when you need a thicker adhesive for when you need to non-conductive, non-staining, non-permanently attach something to something else when a large gap is present and cannot be fixed by other means in a cheap way.

This is why fujipoly thermal pads are mostly used by companies to attach RAM and VRAM heatsinks. Enthusiast Users like us typically don't use them because spending $1 for a shim is really not a big deal, but it is a big deal to a company mass producing something, or for things that aren't performance utilized, like laptops for office usage.

Try using the shim again with a modern paste, and you'll see your dramatic difference in temps. Not some outdated paste. You realize that they're on to mx-4 now right? And mx-4 came out so long ago, it's considered a crap paste nowadays too.

There is seriously no difference between modern pastes. But there is a huge difference between a modern paste, and some garbage that came out almost a decade ago. Gee, people will make fun of someone for using a 6xxx or Sandy Bridge or Phenom I, but have no problem applying stuff that's older than DDR2 on their most critical components! That's just insane!

Try some PK-3, Gelid, HeGrease, NH-T1, I mean there's a ton of great pastes. Or really, just get yourself some CLU which is dramatically better than the best ceramiques like PK-3.

Of course you aren't going to see a temp change from MX-2 vs Fujipoly. Try some PK-3 or HeGrease, and you'll see a massive difference (5C). Use some Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra, and the temp difference won't just be massive by thermal paste standards - it'll be massive by heatsink standards.

50% Power limit really is much more headroom than necessary, 7950s top out around 330, or ~30% power limit, in high intensity usage (which, sure, most users never do, but you still do it even if it's just a nanosecond in a game, a nanosecond that will be important, and not just because of murphys law). However, temperatures dramatically affect power consumption, as well as many other factors, so I'd really leave at least 35% power limit.

And having 30-50% power limit over 20% isn't going to be a massive performance boost, sure. But... why would you have your card throttle at all? Having any lower power limit is just kinda... dumb. You don't put a power limit on your CPU. Every modern board lets you set a power limit on your CPU, why don't you set a 20% power limit on your CPU? Because it's just be stupid, just set it to 100000% or whatever the max is or way above what it'd ever hit, and never worry about it.

However, I would caution the average user who doesn't have proper cooling of GPU and VRMs against doing this, as even with my overkill VRM cooling (heatsinks + 120mm Scythe fan @ 90%) I was hitting 79C on the VRMs under Furmark as opposed to staying under 60C.

79C is really not bad for VRM, unless they are crappy quality. I'd really only say 80-90C+ is where it's starting to get hot, and I'd only worry if you hear VRM whine or 110C+ on digital VRMs on non-budget components.

Of course, with raising the power limit, just like with anything, make sure you keep your temps in check. Even at stock speeds and with 0% power limit, 7950s can easily overheat.
 
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