Best old truck or SUV with decent towing capacity for $4-5k?

[rancherlee]

I'd suggest an older 2x4 F250 or GM 2500 regular cab 8' box for a "work truck" if your not planning on using it as a commuter. 1/2 ton will pull 5000-6000 OK but really need the tires upgraded to LT spec tires instead of the crappy P rating they come with. Also you nearly double the "in the box" payload capability from ~1400# to over 2500# by going 3/4 ton and gain suspension that isn't "bouncy" when loaded to capacity.

 

[monkeydelmagico]

Do you have data behind any of these assertions? What we "expect" is irrelevant.

Re: your Accord/Corvette comparison, I would venture that a Corvette would be more reliable than an Accord across the board, whether used as a track car or not.

Using Dashboard light for reliability data could be a mistake. Their overall rankings look skewed when compared to TrueDelta, CR, and JD Powers (even 10 years back).

Not saying don't use Dashboard light at all, but it might be wise to study across multiple sources of data. It's certainly better than no data.

There is one constant across every reliability study I've ever seen: Toyota and Lexus. Everyone else is fighting for second.

And a tracked Corvette being more reliable than a daily driver Accord? That doesn't even pass the sniff test. Anyone who has ever tracked a vehicle knows the duty cycle is extreme for raced vehicles.

 

[thedarkwolf]

RELIABILITY ISN'T THAT IMPORTANT quit blabbing about it!!!!!! This is a truck that is going to sit in the driveway and get driven what 1k miles maybe 2k miles a year? What matters is cost to own. That is why I said early to mid 90s 3/4 ton ford or chevy. The drivetrains are more than solid enough and all the rest of the parts are cheap CHEAP and easy to work on and they are worthless enough to just put liability insurance on. And don't get a diesel. Just a regular old cam in block gas v8 or a 300 straight 6 ford, gas mileage doesn't matter on something not getting driven and the gas engine is cheaper to fix. The 3/4 ton vs 1/2 ton? answer is might as well be a 3/4 ton, no real downside for a 3/4 ton in this situation. Since the whole reason OP wants the truck is to haul and tow crap might as well have more truck than you need so it is more comfortable doing what you bought it for.

One more thing in the cost to own department I left off. A $2k 92 ford f-250 has already pretty much hit rock bottom, it isn't going to depreciate anymore. If anything if it stays in half way decent shape it will be worth more than you paid for it 5 years down the road.

https://columbus.craigslist.org/cto/d/92-ford-f250-ext-cab-xlt/6547595186.html
My example. Not sure how much the 460 would make it a PITA to work on engine room wise but whatever. Yeah gauges don't work other than the speedo but factory gauges are worthless anyway. I'djust put a real water temp, oil pressure, and maybe trans temp gauge in it for $50 and call it good. Thing even still looks pretty nice which isn't important but a nice bonus.

 

[mindless1]

Or you can look at reliability statistics and prove your point with data.

Reliability statistics mean almost nothing once these larger vehicles (vs sedan) drop to this price point. It's all about how the owner took care of it, and that it not have much over 150K mi if you want a few years of use.

It's all rather silly. Buy WHAT YOU WANT. If you want a van get one, but don't for a second settle for a van because you think a pickup or SUV at the same price point is going to implode.

If you're not fit to assess the big ticket repair items like engine or tranny, take it to a shop for a pre-purchase inspection. Keep an eye on used car listings and be ready to jump on a cherry when you find it because those sell fast while what you see listed longer term is usually overpriced for what it is.

 

[jlee]

Using Dashboard light for reliability data could be a mistake. Their overall rankings look skewed when compared to TrueDelta, CR, and JD Powers (even 10 years back).

Not saying don't use Dashboard light at all, but it might be wise to study across multiple sources of data. It's certainly better than no data.

There is one constant across every reliability study I've ever seen: Toyota and Lexus. Everyone else is fighting for second.

And a tracked Corvette being more reliable than a daily driver Accord? That doesn't even pass the sniff test. Anyone who has ever tracked a vehicle knows the duty cycle is extreme for raced vehicles.

Tracked Accord vs tracked Corvette was the comparison. Statistics indicate that even without track use, the Corvette is more reliable to begin with.

Reliability statistics mean almost nothing once these larger vehicles (vs sedan) drop to this price point. It's all about how the owner took care of it, and that it not have much over 150K mi if you want a few years of use.

It's all rather silly. Buy WHAT YOU WANT. If you want a van get one, but don't for a second settle for a van because you think a pickup or SUV at the same price point is going to implode.

If you're not fit to assess the big ticket repair items like engine or tranny, take it to a shop for a pre-purchase inspection. Keep an eye on used car listings and be ready to jump on a cherry when you find it because those sell fast while what you see listed longer term is usually overpriced for what it is.

Well shit. I guess my GX is going to explode any day now.

 

[ponyo]

At $4-5k budget, I would look at used truck rather than SUV. But I don't think you can be that picky at that budget. My preference would be something like Tundra but I'm biased since I own 2002 Tundra and 2005 LX470 and love both vehicles.

 

[slugg]

Everyone, thanks so much for all the feedback and perspective!

 

[Pacfanweb]

To reliably tow 6k lbs, I'd recommend a 3/4 ton truck. It has to be a special situation that a 1/2 ton of that vintage can actually be loaded with that much and still be "legal".
I'd start with a GM truck (top of the line for trucks) and move down to Ford and not go any farther, honestly.
Those are your two choices. A Dodge of that vintage isn't an option, and nobody else makes one that can legitimately tow 6k, not if you do all the math involved in loading your truck correctly.

 

[Jimzz]

I prefer Chevy or GMC with Ford right behind that. But a good bang for the buck is a 2005+ Nissan Titan. The 2009+ are better but if you keep a eye on the axle seals the 2005+ will be fine as well.
Skip the 2004 and early 2005. They had bad front brakes.

In your budget don't look just at the brand but how it was taken care of. I would skip all dodge due to trans issues, Toyotas without the frame replacement, and anything that has not been taken care of.

 

[jlee]

I prefer Chevy or GMC with Ford right behind that. But a good bang for the buck is a 2005+ Nissan Titan. The 2009+ are better but if you keep a eye on the axle seals the 2005+ will be fine as well.
Skip the 2004 and early 2005. They had bad front brakes.

In your budget don't look just at the brand but how it was taken care of. I would skip all dodge due to trans issues, Toyotas without the frame replacement, and anything that has not been taken care of.

Frame replacement is unnecessary outside of the rust belt - I had a '99 Tacoma in Arizona that was over 280k miles and the frame was perfect.