Best sealer for basement wall crack?

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techwanabe

Diamond Member
May 24, 2000
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I've got a poured foundation basement wall that has a settling crack in it from floor to sealing. It leaks a little bit during major rain storms - usually just a small puddle and then it dries up. It was originally found when a corner of the carpet in the basement was found to be damp/wet, so after the drywall behind it was removed, I found the area that had been patched previously and apparently it had been stable for perhaps a period of at least 3 or 4 years, maybe longer.

Last year a contractor chipped away the old patch up to about 4 feet - and sealed the crack with what appeared to be a gray hard epoxy like sealant out of a caulking gun. It held for nearly a year but began to leak again, just a small puddle so nothing major.

I chisiled and cleaned it all off down to the bare poured concrete wall and applied a fairly thin layer some hydraulic cement - but after applying it realized it wasn't meant for trowling on the outside but rather to put into hollowed out cracks. It was a thin layer but looked solid so I found another hydraulic cement product called Dry Lok and it IS meant to be trowled on the outside to seal leaks, such as cement or cinder block basement walls. It was easier to work with and I applied a layer over the other hydraulic cement, but later it appeared that was incompatible with it.

I found by tapping on it it sounded hollow like it was not bonded solid to the previous surface - and sure enough, it was easily chipped off and spauled away and took with it most of the hydraulic cement I had put down. Lesson learned, don't put incompatible materals over each other.

So clearly I'll need to clean off the surface of the poured foundation wall so it is a clean hard surface to apply an good layer of a patch on it. Does anyone have experience with and can recommend what is the best kind of patch?

The old patch looks like really good stuff - in it's dry state, it looks like a very hard cement like product, light olive greenish in color, a bit of a grainy texture as if it may have had a filler like a grit in it, but it is glossy smooth and very hard. In contrast, the hydraulic cement I applied dried with a grainy gritty non-glossy texture, very different. Anyone have any idea what the glossy olive green patch was, or what it is called?

I've been to home depot and looked around to see what patch materals they have but haven't been able to identify the type of patch substance used originally, which looks like it would work much better and hold for several years at least.

Can anyone comment on it? Of course probably the best seal would be to dig down on the outside and patch there, but considering it's a fairly tiny leak, a good inside patch should hold for a period of a few years at least. Anyone know of what is the best material or can point me to a good forums regarding this?
 

slag

Lifer
Dec 14, 2000
10,473
81
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There's an injectable epoxy that is supposed to work really well. In my old house, we had some small cracks in the basement wall that seeped when it rained. We put 3 coats of waterproof cement paint over the wall and it soaked in enough to where we didn't have any more problems. Sold the house less than a year later also.
 

ControlD

Diamond Member
Apr 25, 2005
5,440
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Let us know if you find something that actually works. I have been through this in my basement as well, and I am now of the opinion that ANY patch made to the inside wall will be temporary. If any water can work in from the outside of the foundation wall, it will eventually form a new opening into your basement, usually right at the edge of your patch.

I fought a crack like that for some years before finally patching on the outside, and it really isn't that difficult. Dig down, apply the patch and back fill with gravel to make sure you don't have water sitting on the patch. We did that 12 years ago and haven't had a drop come through that spot since. Every other product I tried would work for a period of months and then sure enough the water would find a way in.
 

tracerbullet

Golden Member
Feb 22, 2001
1,661
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In addition to fixing the crack I would also suggest thinking about how water settles around your house. Wet ground around your foundation is inevitable but it will take a lot of strain off the crack if you can be sure the ground is sloped away from that area, install or redirect a gutter, things like that.
 

mizzou

Diamond Member
Jan 2, 2008
9,734
54
91
In addition to fixing the crack I would also suggest thinking about how water settles around your house. Wet ground around your foundation is inevitable but it will take a lot of strain off the crack if you can be sure the ground is sloped away from that area, install or redirect a gutter, things like that.

^
this


Almost no foundation is 100% waterproof. Water will somehow find a way in, even if it's just condensation. Get your ground around your house to slope away and make sure your gutter/downspouts are clean and direct water well away from the foundation.
 

techwanabe

Diamond Member
May 24, 2000
3,147
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DaveStall, how did you do the outside patch? I assume you have to clean the cement well but what do you apply to seal from the outside? I've seen a video where even a layer of impermeable material was used in on case, along with sealing agent that was applied.

I've read all the stuff about drainage - thats everywhere you find info on managing water issues - landscaping etc. The side where the leak is was graded a bit and there isn't anything more than can be done other than a french drain, which is on the agenda - that should help put less hydraulic pressure on the concrete wall. It isn't condensation, the leak only occurs during very heavy rain events - and usually just a small puddle but it enough to prevent dry drywall to be left in place.

I am aware that any inside patch will be temporary, but it would be good if I could get a temporary 3 or 4 years rather than a temporary 8 months. ;-)
Ultimately, I may be digging down and going from the outside, maybe next summer if I can't find any patch that works.

In the mean time, I'm going to clean the surface and try Dry Lok on the raw wall rather than over the previous layer of hyrdaulic cement.
 
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ControlD

Diamond Member
Apr 25, 2005
5,440
44
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Well, I hired somebody to put the actual patch on (after failing myself trying various products), so I don't actually know what the product was as far as name brands goes. Basically, they applied several layers of a flexible fabric-like product that covered the crack plus several inches on all sides. They did apply some type of cleaner to the wall first to make sure the first layer of glue would bond to the cement. The entire process took them less than an hour.

I wish I knew exactly what cement and patch they used, but that must be some kind of trade secret because I have never been able to find it through my searches.

If I ever need this done again I won't even try to patch it myself. The excavation work is best left to people with stronger backs than mine!
 
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SNC

Platinum Member
Jan 14, 2001
2,166
202
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You will never fix a leak from the inside. It must be done from the outside.
 

MongGrel

Lifer
Dec 3, 2013
38,751
3,068
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Lots of JB Weld.

Just kidding.

Fiberglass the basement ?

I did it to my pool years ago, but yeah that would be odd, and expensive.
 

techwanabe

Diamond Member
May 24, 2000
3,147
0
0
Yes, pretty much know the outside solution is the proper long term fix - putting some money into savings for that. I am pretty sure there is something to hold a small leak at bay during the interim. I think a contractor estimated around $1500 to dig down and patch from the outside.

Lots of JB Weld.

Just kidding.

There was another spot where a leak around a pipe coming from the outside through the basement wall was repaired but during very heavy rains there would be a few drips or a tiny seep. I put JB Weld over that patch just to seal it a bit better.
 

ControlD

Diamond Member
Apr 25, 2005
5,440
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Before I got mine fixed properly, I just used hydraulic cement as a temporary fix. The thing is, you really need a properly cut channel for that stuff (it needs to flare out on the back side) and that is tough to do. I made a cut with a large cutting wheel with a masonry disk attached. For the most part that did a decent job, I just had to keep reapplying the patch from time to time when it would start leaking again.

Honestly I would try an concrete patching epoxy first and see how it goes. You know already it is a temporary fix, so just leave that area exposed and reapply as needed until you can get a more permanent fix.
 
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