Best Water Cooling ever?

[kamranziadar]

Ok i need help here what is the best water cooling product ever, for overlocking and for the future, plus the price will be right.

 

[Elfear]

Here you go. He says that water temp is 10-15C.

Link. Scroll down until you find the post by pelikan. Very extreme.

 

[kamranziadar]

What the ^&%&%&^ that was amazing man , but seriously i am thinking buying a Thermaltake Big Water SE, any body else has any suggestion, and great price link.

 

[llars]

Heh heh heh. I don't think any one would use the words Big Water and best ever in the same sentence. One of the best kits out right now is the Swiftech kit with the storm waterblock.

 

[chinkgai]

swiftech storm
swiftech mcp655 or aquaxtreme 50z
thermochill or black ice raditor that'll fit 3x 120mm fans

 

[doinmybestatlast]

I have the Swiftech. The kit took me about 6 hours to build. Use a fan controller. Water is for noise control - you can get nearly the same temps with air.

 

[BonzaiDuck]

I think the kit with the Storm waterblock is the one with the thermal resistance value of 0.125 C/W.

I have an idea -- it IS a bit pricey. But the off-the-shelf water-cooling kit now has to compete with the ThermalRight SI120 successor to the XP120. Why go "off the shelf" if it only buys you a few more degrees Celsius?

The man with the copper pipe in his back yard has the right idea, but it's also "rube goldberg."

Then, there's the "bong" cooler, evaporative cooler or what has been called the "Nuke-a-ler Tower" water-cooler, which admits debris into an open-loop cooling circuit through the water-pump and water-block. It can be filtered; it also must be refilled -- perhaps even daily. And you have the "mist" problem if you turn the fan up too much.

Living with the mist, avoiding the burying of copper tubing -- or even a ten-gallon-reservoir four-feet underground, I thought maybe one could make a "two-stage" evaporative cooler using an ice-chest as reservoir.

Get three-feet of PVC 4"-dia. plumbing pipe -- beige. Get the Y-fitting for the pipe used in the basic bong cooler. Cut a 4" hole in the ice-chest; cut additional holes to route water hoses -- three of them.

Buy or obtain -- based on the size of your ice-chest reservoir -- either automotive heater cores -- as many as will fit in the ice-chest like books on a shelf -- or your run-of-the-mill 120mm water-cooling radiators. Hook up the radiators in series -- inside the ice-chest.

Route the "input" and "output" water-tubes to the back of your PC; "input" goes into the input port of one radiator; "output" connects to the output-port of the last radiator in the series.

Purchase extra water pump to circulate water from the bottom of the ice-chest to the top of the cooling tower. Mate the water-pump output hose to a shower-nozzle suspended inside the cooling tower. You might try filtering the cooling tower from above, but stuff is going to get blown in by the fan farther down in the Y-fitting.

Now, on the upside, if the reservoir goes dry, this thing should perform like a top-notch radiator-cooler. The total number of radiators should have enough fluid to qualify as "a reservoir."

On the down side, it may not cool as well as a simple bong cooler, but it would be better than most water-cooling rigs. No dirt gets through the water-pump connected to the water-block. You could probably find a 30-watt plug-in power-supply to run the water-pump and fan in the open-loop of the ice-chest cooler. And with a big enough ice-chest, there should be no need to refill for days; the ice-chest, being insulated, would keep the water cold for as long as possible, canceling heat transfer from the radiator(s)z.

It's still "rube goldberg," though. And so is the office-water-cooler idea -- with a nuisance that you never get water quite as cold for drinking as you want it, and we assume there are no carcinogenic substances in the cooling loop that goes through the water-block.

 

[JEDIYoda]

Im sorry but......not all reviews of the si120 place the si120 as the "successor to" the xp120!!!

They are very close but successor....nope!!

 

[Turtle 1]

Swiftech Storm
MCP 655 pump
2 Thermochill PA 160 Rad.( 60 cfm 120mm fans is all thats required Silent cooling)

Super Cool Can
Thanks to an all new heat-sink design, you get more efficient fuel cooling. Up to 20% cooler, plus ice lasts longer! No rust polyethylene shell has tight snap-on lid. 3/8''NPT inlet and outlet. Excellent at reducing fuel temperature for a denser air-fuel mixture. Cool, dense fuel makes horsepower. Order from jegs online Morso super cool can #710-97817

For normal use run your system as normal. when you want to get some serious performance fill the cool can with ice and O/C that PC . If you want to get real serious fill the can with dry ice. Now thats a serios water cooler on the cheap. ( If you use dry ice make sure system is running before adding the dry ice or condensation can take place.)
Now is that serious enough for you . And it looks great also . Make sure all your parts are 3/8 water lines . Also make sure that your plastic tubing can handle the cold.
I would also sugjest A gigabyte 3D Aurora case with one radiator mounted inside the case and one outside . no mods required the case is built for water cooling .
Cool can color also matches the lighting of the Aurora case. Regular Ice will last about 1 1/2 hours . The can has a drain so its all easy . COOL VERY COOL


link to case
http://www.hothardware.com/viewarticle.cfm?articleid=723

 

[NotquiteanooB]

I vote for the Corsair CWC 100-1000 for AMD 64's or CWC100-1001 for AMD XP or P4 -775's. I've just finished installing 2 kits into Sonata cases. Easy installs, and so far trouble free. CPU temps on P4 530J and 540J that are OC'd to 3.45 and 3.5 are 39*C;mobo temps are 33*C and room temp is 24*C. On fan cooling, the CPU temps were in the 50*C range. Pumps are made by Delphi and must be precision, because the 2 pumps have identical rpm's (3540) Kits were $230 Cdn., knock off about 20% for US $. I run 4 PC's in a small room and the noise level has dropped considerably. I've ordered 2 more kits for the AMD Xp2800 PC's. The silence will be deafening and the room ambient should drop to about 20*C.

 

[Elfear]

Here is a mini-review I did and the components I used. It was well worth the money.

 

[BonzaiDuck]

JediYoda wrote:

Im sorry but......not all reviews of the si120 place the si120 as the "successor to" the xp120!!!

They are very close but successor....nope!!

______________

Not sure how you mean this. There was no SI120 until recently.

I just got the unit from FedEx delivery. The heatsink-base is a very hefty chunk of copper. It makes the base of the XP120 look puny, so given the thermal resistance data and independent confirmation from another review, I have high hopes for maybe a 4 or 5F reduction in load temperature over the XP120.

Put another way, ThermalRight "wants" the SI120 to succeed the XP120, or they wouldn't be producing it. I think its appearance is timely, because of the flap about the CNPS-9500.

But you've probably seen my attempt to get a handle on the minimum thermal resistance value for the Zalman 9500. I'm comfortable with that result, or I'd swing for the 9500 instead of the SI120.

 

[HardWarrior]

Originally posted by: kamranziadar
Ok i need help here what is the best water cooling product ever, for overlocking and for the future, plus the price will be right.

Sorry dude, but you aren't going to get the best ANYTHING if you're freaked about price. Life just doesn't work that way. Save up and get yourself something nice and that works for you. In the meantime, you can busy yourself reading up on the subject and gaining some personal insights.

 

[BonzaiDuck]

Yes, HardWarrior.

People come here for ideas, insights, advice -- and to save the time and money on either the research or trial-by-error and making mistakes.

Other people come here to trade ideas on an "experimental bleeding edge."

Experimenting costs money. Or you can buy a Vapochill. Which costs money.

I guess -- if there are no comments on my dual-cooling-loop evaporative cooler -- I'm just going to have to try it myself.

I need a shopping list and a budget . . .

 

[HardWarrior]

BD;

I'm not sure what you're trying to express here. During my time at Anadtech I've offered extensive advice about water-cooling based on my 4-years of dealing with the process. This advice has been both specific and covering the methodology itself. The OP, however, didn't ask for either of these things.

Ok i need help here what is the best water cooling product ever, for overlocking and for the future, plus the price will be right.

This statement/question indicates that the OP wants the "best", but at cut-rate prices, and that, in a roundabout way, he knows little about water-cooling. I responded to both clauses in the way I saw fit, as apparently did you. For the sake of comity we should just leave it at that.

 

[BonzaiDuck]

No point of contention. I just took the opportunity here -- once the link to the back-yard radiator-pipe was displayed -- to run my own rube-goldberg idea past other members.

I was looking at the Swiftech coolers at Sidewindercomputers.com the other day, just to see "what was there." The Sidewinder ad has thermal resistance numbers by cooler model, ranging from a minimum (best) of 0.125 C/W to a (third-best) of 0.15 C/W. I think the price range was $160 to $260 -- inversely proportional to the TR ratings.

If you were going to do the scavenger-hunt for suitable parts in a DIY project to replicate something like the Swiftech kit(s), I think you'd still spend around $100. You could get the radiator from a (auto-parts) junk-yard; you'd either pay to have it checked and reconditioned, our do the work yourself. But you still have to buy the water-block, hoses, fittings, water-pump, and reservoir. I think you could manufacture a reservoir out a vinyl bottle from the drug-store, but such a commitment to reducing cost and possibly sacrificing quality seems extreme.

 

[kamranziadar]

Originally posted by: HardWarrior
BD;

I'm not sure what you're trying to express here. During my time at Anadtech I've offered extensive advice about water-cooling based on my 4-years of dealing with the process. This advice has been both specific and covering the methodology itself. The OP, however, didn't ask for either of these things.

Ok i need help here what is the best water cooling product ever, for overlocking and for the future, plus the price will be right.

This statement/question indicates that the OP wants the "best", but at cut-rate prices, and that, in a roundabout way, he knows little about water-cooling. I responded to both clauses in the way I saw fit, as apparently did you. For the sake of comity we should just leave it at that.

Yeah i never used water cooling, but i know alot about it i was just thinking to make my own water cooling by buying parts from different vendors.
Here are few i found they the cheapest and best.

1. Radiator Link

2. CPU Water Block

3. Pump

Just these three things costs me $129.

Then i realized that if i buy this
Thermaltake Bigwater 12CM Liquid cooling system $114

and add the radiator i found up there with 3 x 120mm fans i might have a winner for about $163.

What do you guys think.

 

[HardWarrior]

Originally posted by: BonzaiDuck
No point of contention.

Good, this pleases me.

 

[Turtle 1]

Stay away from the kits . first thing I must say the pump must be a a good pump don't skimp on this part. The swiftech Storm is probably the best water block available. As far as the radiators go if you have room for the Thermochill PA 160 thats the best available single out there and requires less air passing threw it to get rid of the hit. So you don't need a high cfm fan . 60 cfm is plenty good. How many water blocks you going to use 1 only. than you don't need that rad. here's a link.

http://www.thermochill.com/

 

[HardWarrior]

Originally posted by: kamranziadar1. Radiator Link

2. CPU Water Block

3. Pump

Just these three things costs me $129.

Then i realized that if i buy this
Thermaltake Bigwater 12CM Liquid cooling system $114

and add the radiator i found up there with 3 x 120mm fans i might have a winner for about $163.

What do you guys think.

Well, let's see:

1. Are you planning on using 3/8in ID tubing? If you want great OCing performance, I'd suggest going with 1/2in ID tubing. Why am I saying this? My understanding is that Asetek blocks don't come with 1/2in ID push-fittings.

2. Speaking of Asetek (and again, if you want great performance in a cost-effective way), I'd suggest getting a better 1/2in ID block. This block might serve your needs. It isn't TOO expensive as blocks go, but I've heard it works well.

3. The pump: It's hard for me to recommend anything but the best when it comes to this particular component. Being that a pump is the heart of any water-cooler I never cheap-lick on them. I will say this though, 185lph won't drive a modern block to its potential, much less multiple blocks and a large exchanger. Think hard before you buy.

4. The exchanger: The current consensus is that a triple 120mm rad doesn't offer temps that much superior to a dual 120mm rad. If you want to save a bit, you can go with a dual Pro and invest in better fans that will in all likelihood make up for any difference.

 

[kamranziadar]

As far as the radiator goes, this is the best price for any radiator. You can buy a triple 120mm fan radiator for the price of dual 120mm fan radiator or even this is a price of dual 80mm radiators.

The pump & CPU Water block i choose up there are the best in the business here is a link to the review.
Link: http://www.guru3d.com/article/cooling/133/

 

[Turtle 1]

The 3/8 line was ment to be used with the cool can. so thats why its their also my neighbor builds gaming rigs with water and he say's the performance is the same if not better than 1/2.
Post a link showing a comparsion with the 2 differant hose sizes using the same components.

 

[mindwreck]

It is ideal to get 1/2" tubing as it just allows more water to flow. IF you can't get 1/2" to fit in your case, then 3/8th would do just fine.

Stick with that BIP3 radiator, especially if your going to overclock and want to keep the system for a long time. Its definitely worth it and its great since you can run it with 3 fans at low and still maintain good temps.

The pump is a bit on the weak side but good enough for your setup. Its better to just get a good pump now and keep it. Might want to look into the D5 pump.

 

[racinjimy]

Laing D5 pump (same as swiftech 655)

Swiftech Storm block

at least a Thermochill PA160 rad but a 120.2 or 120.3 rad is better

if you listen to Cathar (watercooling GOD and the designer of the Storm blocks) then go with 7/16" tubing for ease of routing and no performance penalty over 1/2"

if you haven't been over ther yet go to

xtreme forums

and check out the stickies under liquid cooling section

the new swiftech kit is pretty good

 

[Turtle 1]

Nice post racinjimy
Beings how this is a watercooling post I thought I would add more. Iam on air I can't afford the water settup I want . Till my next rig.
My neighbor has the coolest set up I every seen.I can"t talk about his case because he's going to bring it to market.
Heres what he has for water cooling

First TEC water chiller 200watts cooling with power supply and temp control.
2 water manifolds 1 out to components with 7 ports 1 return to chiller with 7 ports.The chiller is a closed loop. that does not go into RADS thats on a seperate loop.
The system has 3 655 pumps 2 pumps for the cooling with a Y block to the intake manifold. 1 pump to cool the the heating side threw 4 PA160 rads.
He cools 1 cpu-2videocards-1 NB-1mossit(spelling)2harddrives He is running the temp controller @15C but can go much lower.
6 120mm fans on this rig 2intake 4 exhaust mounted on the Rads.
He has the fans running so slow you can barely here this thing run And the water hose management is just unbelieveable it is the neatest thing I ever seen on a computer .

I asked him how much for that water cooling system $1600. Holy crap I thought to my self . But I got to have and I will.