Some tips to unlocking.
You don't need that much super glue. If you have to srape of the dried on superglue with an exacto knife, then you used too much. Use only as much glue as you need to fill in the gaps, then remove the tape as soon as you are finished putting the glue down. Put some fingernail polish remover on a cotton ball and start rubbing it down. I've personally never been able to rub out all the glue from the cut out areas even after a 4th or 5th attempt at trying to get the rear window defogger kit right.
You might want to use an exacto knife to remove the foam pad next to the L1 bridges. This makes using the tape much easier. If you are carefull not to cut the pad, then it will stick back in the same spot when you are done.
Use the exacto knife to scrape the L1 bridge contact areas. I'm not 100% sure that this does anything, but it will remove any coatings that might be there.
Use very thin tape.
When positioning the tape for the individual L1 bridges, try to expose the smallest area possible. This means that the gap between your first two strips of tape should be the same witch as the L1 contacts. There is no reason to leave any extra room. When you apply the next two strips over the first two strips of tape, use your fingernail to push the tape down in the gap left from the first two strips.
I used a safety pin to apply the rear window defogger. Try to get a really thin layer. Use the safety pin to get as much of the stuff out of the tape groove as you can. On that ClubOC web page, it looks like they used too much. As soon as you have it smoothed out, remove the tape. If the stuff is still a little wet, then you should have smooth edges. If you let it dry completely, then you might pull of chucks when you remove the tape. Wait a couple of minutes so the first contact can dry before you start on the next contact.
If you mess up, pull out the cotton ball and fingernail poish remover and start over.
You don't need that much super glue. If you have to srape of the dried on superglue with an exacto knife, then you used too much. Use only as much glue as you need to fill in the gaps, then remove the tape as soon as you are finished putting the glue down. Put some fingernail polish remover on a cotton ball and start rubbing it down. I've personally never been able to rub out all the glue from the cut out areas even after a 4th or 5th attempt at trying to get the rear window defogger kit right.
You might want to use an exacto knife to remove the foam pad next to the L1 bridges. This makes using the tape much easier. If you are carefull not to cut the pad, then it will stick back in the same spot when you are done.
Use the exacto knife to scrape the L1 bridge contact areas. I'm not 100% sure that this does anything, but it will remove any coatings that might be there.
Use very thin tape.
When positioning the tape for the individual L1 bridges, try to expose the smallest area possible. This means that the gap between your first two strips of tape should be the same witch as the L1 contacts. There is no reason to leave any extra room. When you apply the next two strips over the first two strips of tape, use your fingernail to push the tape down in the gap left from the first two strips.
I used a safety pin to apply the rear window defogger. Try to get a really thin layer. Use the safety pin to get as much of the stuff out of the tape groove as you can. On that ClubOC web page, it looks like they used too much. As soon as you have it smoothed out, remove the tape. If the stuff is still a little wet, then you should have smooth edges. If you let it dry completely, then you might pull of chucks when you remove the tape. Wait a couple of minutes so the first contact can dry before you start on the next contact.
If you mess up, pull out the cotton ball and fingernail poish remover and start over.