Aug 26, 2004
14,685
1
76
looking at a 97 528i, 6 cylinder, automatic, leather, woodgrain, etc. most of the nifty options...has 80K miles...wondering if upkeep is ridiculous on a car like this...such as are parts much more expensive than other imports?

will most garages be able to provide quality work? or will i need to find a mechanic who specializes in BMWs?

anything model specific i should be looking at for a car this age with this mileage? such as required maintanence at certian intervals that its getting close to time to have it done?

just wanting to make sure i don't drop 9K on this car then have to do another 2-3K in maintenance in 5K miles...

anyone own one? wanna chime in experiences, complaints, compliments, etc?

thx
 

boredhokie

Senior member
May 7, 2005
625
0
0
9K is too much for a 5 series that old with that many miles - from personal experience, you're going to be spending a lot of time in the garage. You really need to spend more money to get a BMW in decent shape, unless you're willing to do all the repairs yourself.

edit - plus the 6 cyl is underpowered for that big a car, the 530 is a better choice IMO
 
Aug 26, 2004
14,685
1
76
Originally posted by: boredhokie
9K is too much for a 5 series that old with that many miles - from personal experience, you're going to be spending a lot of time in the garage. You really need to spend more money to get a BMW in decent shape, unless you're willing to do all the repairs yourself.

edit - plus the 6 cyl is underpowered for that big a car, the 530 is a better choice IMO

what should i be offering?
 

Transition

Banned
Sep 8, 2001
2,615
0
0
Even though BMW makes a decent car, the problem is there is SO GOD DAMN MUCH trinketry in the car that it exponentially increases probablity of things failing. I'm sure if you went to a knowledgable BMW mechanic and started asking for a list of typical mechanical failures on the BMW's and their respective cost to fix, it's pretty astronomical.

With that said BMW does have some beautiful cars. But, i'll stick to the raw simplicity and reliablity of my 94 Civic.
 

Transition

Banned
Sep 8, 2001
2,615
0
0
Originally posted by: quakefiend420

i'm not really familiar with BMWs...this would be my first one

Run. Seriously, RUN! BMW's are for people who can afford them NEW with a warranty.
 

iamwiz82

Lifer
Jan 10, 2001
30,772
13
81
Inspection II

The Inspection 2 Service is the larger of the two Inspection Services and basically includes all of the items performed on the Inspection I Service along with some extras like differential oil change; fuel filter and air filter replacements; Replacement of spark plugs. Inspection 2 generally runs around $400+ to $500+. Below are the items that are normally performed. If you are performing the inspection yourself, We carry most of the BMW parts you need to complete the inspection and replacement of BMW parts. Click here for the Online BMW Parts Catalog. Don't forget to purchase the BMW service/oil change reset tool.
Undercarriage

1. Change engine oil and filter oil while engine is at normal operation temperature.
2. Check transmission for leaks.
3. Check rear axle for leaks.
4. Visually check fuel tank, lines, and connections for leaks.
5. Check condition, position, and mounting of exhaust system. Examine for leaks.
6. Check power steering system for leaks.
7. Check overall thickness of front and rear disc brake pads.
8. Examine brake disc surfaces.
9. Clean brake pad contact points in calipers.
10. Grease wheel center hubs.
11. Check steering for absence of play, condition of suspension track rods, front axle joints, steering linkage, and joint disc.
12. Check front control arm bushing for wear.
13. Check brake and clutch system connectors and lines for leaks, damage, and incorrect positioning.
14. Check for free movement of the parking brake cables. Adjust parking brake if necessary.
15. Check all tire pressures (including spare). Correct if necessary.
16. Check condition of tires (outer surfaces (left/right)), tread wear and pattern; In case of uneven tread wear readjust wheel alignment if required.
17. Check thickness of parking brake linings.
18. Half-shafts; check for leaks at flexible boots.
19. Inspect entire body according to terms of rust prevention limited warranty.

Engine Compartment

1. Read out diagnostic system
2. Check engine cooling system/heater hose connections for leaks.
3. Check coolant level and antifreeze protection level; add coolant if necessary.
4. Check level of brake and clutch fluid in reservoir; add fluid if required.
5. Check windshield washer fluid level and antifreeze protection. Fill up and/or correct if necessary.
6. Check air conditioner for operation.
7. Reset Service Indicator.
8. Replace spark plugs.
9. Replace intake air cleaner element.


Body/Electrical Equipment

1. Check battery electrolyte level and add distilled water if required.
2. Perform batter load test.
3. Check lighting system, i.e. headlights, foglights, parking, backup, license plate, interior (including map reading lights), glove box, flashlight, illuminated makeup mirrors, luggage compartment lights.
4. Check instrument panel and dashboard illumination.
5. Check all warning/indicator lights, check control.
6. Check turn signals, hazard warning flashers, brake lights, horns, headlight dimmer/flasher switch.
7. Check wiper and washer system(s); wiper blades, washer jet positions.
8. Check condition and function of safety belts.
9. Oil hood, trunk/tailgate, and door hinges.
10. Grease hood, trunk/tailgate and door latches. Check operation of all latches.
11. Check central locking/double lock.
12. Replace microfilter or Acc Cabin Filter.
13. Check heater/air conditioner blower, rear window defogger.
14. Check rear view mirrors
15. Visually examine the SRS airbag units for torn cover, obvious damage or attachment of decals, decorations, or accessories.

I would not hesitate to buy it, but then again I don't go around humping Hondas, either.
 
Aug 26, 2004
14,685
1
76
Originally posted by: iamwiz82
Inspection II

The Inspection 2 Service is the larger of the two Inspection Services and basically includes all of the items performed on the Inspection I Service along with some extras like differential oil change; fuel filter and air filter replacements; Replacement of spark plugs. Inspection 2 generally runs around $400+ to $500+. Below are the items that are normally performed. If you are performing the inspection yourself, We carry most of the BMW parts you need to complete the inspection and replacement of BMW parts. Click here for the Online BMW Parts Catalog. Don't forget to purchase the BMW service/oil change reset tool.
Undercarriage

1. Change engine oil and filter oil while engine is at normal operation temperature.
2. Check transmission for leaks.
3. Check rear axle for leaks.
4. Visually check fuel tank, lines, and connections for leaks.
5. Check condition, position, and mounting of exhaust system. Examine for leaks.
6. Check power steering system for leaks.
7. Check overall thickness of front and rear disc brake pads.
8. Examine brake disc surfaces.
9. Clean brake pad contact points in calipers.
10. Grease wheel center hubs.
11. Check steering for absence of play, condition of suspension track rods, front axle joints, steering linkage, and joint disc.
12. Check front control arm bushing for wear.
13. Check brake and clutch system connectors and lines for leaks, damage, and incorrect positioning.
14. Check for free movement of the parking brake cables. Adjust parking brake if necessary.
15. Check all tire pressures (including spare). Correct if necessary.
16. Check condition of tires (outer surfaces (left/right)), tread wear and pattern; In case of uneven tread wear readjust wheel alignment if required.
17. Check thickness of parking brake linings.
18. Half-shafts; check for leaks at flexible boots.
19. Inspect entire body according to terms of rust prevention limited warranty.

Engine Compartment

1. Read out diagnostic system
2. Check engine cooling system/heater hose connections for leaks.
3. Check coolant level and antifreeze protection level; add coolant if necessary.
4. Check level of brake and clutch fluid in reservoir; add fluid if required.
5. Check windshield washer fluid level and antifreeze protection. Fill up and/or correct if necessary.
6. Check air conditioner for operation.
7. Reset Service Indicator.
8. Replace spark plugs.
9. Replace intake air cleaner element.


Body/Electrical Equipment

1. Check battery electrolyte level and add distilled water if required.
2. Perform batter load test.
3. Check lighting system, i.e. headlights, foglights, parking, backup, license plate, interior (including map reading lights), glove box, flashlight, illuminated makeup mirrors, luggage compartment lights.
4. Check instrument panel and dashboard illumination.
5. Check all warning/indicator lights, check control.
6. Check turn signals, hazard warning flashers, brake lights, horns, headlight dimmer/flasher switch.
7. Check wiper and washer system(s); wiper blades, washer jet positions.
8. Check condition and function of safety belts.
9. Oil hood, trunk/tailgate, and door hinges.
10. Grease hood, trunk/tailgate and door latches. Check operation of all latches.
11. Check central locking/double lock.
12. Replace microfilter or Acc Cabin Filter.
13. Check heater/air conditioner blower, rear window defogger.
14. Check rear view mirrors
15. Visually examine the SRS airbag units for torn cover, obvious damage or attachment of decals, decorations, or accessories.

I would not hesitate to buy it, but then again I don't go around humping Hondas, either.

i had just found that when you posted this

i don't know if it has had either inspection done on it, i will make sure to check that though...anything in specific mechanically i should be looking for?

also right now i'm driving a 95 regal and a 86 300zx...i will probably sell both of them in favor of this car, assuming i get it, that is...what can i expect in terms of insurance hikes?

i will probably stick with liability 20/50/20 with 100K uninsured motorist protection that i have now on my other two cars...it runs me about $150 a month for both...

i don't think i can afford full coverage, as much as i would like to have it...just wondering if my liability rates will change with this car...i wouldn't think so, but you never know...

also any "tips and tricks" you might like to share?

 

BobDaMenkey

Diamond Member
Jan 27, 2005
3,057
2
0
It's probably going to go up a bit.

Once you start getting close to the triple digits for thousands of miles traveled in a BMW, stuff starts to break. It's just their nature. The little 6 they have in the 528i is going to make it feel slow, really slow. If you dont mind that, then go for it. If you don't mind doing some repairs yourself, and some routine maintanance yourself, definatly go for it. But when big stuff breaks, it's going to get REALLY expensive.

I have a 1982 BMW 320i project car. I bought it with 80k miles on it. At 86k I pulled the head off to do a minor rebuild on the engine. The engine shouldn't have been running. There were holes between the head and the block, where the aluminum had been coroded away because the previous owner never put radiator fluid in the coolant system, just ran it on water. So at the moment I'm in the process of putting a 1991 318i engine into my e21. It's not cheap, not at all. It's really not worth it, except for being able to say "hey, look at what I did in my garage".

But yeah. If something big breaks, it's going to be EXPENSIVE. My driveshaft had went out. $450 in parts (I did the work). Clutch goes out, $200 in parts. Engine is dead $1,000 in parts. Suspension needs to be replaced $2,000 in parts.

BMW stands for Break My Wallet. Gotta love them tho.
 

dandruff

Golden Member
Jan 28, 2000
1,407
6
81
Originally posted by: cy7878
Check with the guys on roadfly.org


1. what he said.

2. Join the BMWCCA - u get 10% to 20% discount on parts.

3. Find a local mechanic who deals with german cars - even a mechanic who usually works with mercedes.

4. Get vehicle history printout from the dealer.

5. Use the local mechanic for routine jobs (most bmws have the simplest oil change jobs), brake pads, rotors (if u buy the parts urself and have a local mech - a brake change on a bmw is same as an honda accord in my experience)

6. Never goto the dealer for routine jobs.

7. The 6 cyl is not slow - if u search you will find chips that bring out the best from it

8. One you buy it pm me - i have all the latest BMW TIS and ETK CDs - they will tell you everything the dealer has (diagnostics / trouble shooting / estimating labor hrs / part numbers) ETK/EPC - Electronic Parts Catalog - Look up parts and diagrams from any BMW in the last 30+ years!

TIS - Technical Information System - Look up most repair and maintenance procedures for almost all BMWs

ETM: E23 - E36 Electronic Troubleshooting Manuals - Complete collection of manuals to help you troubleshoot electrical problems on all E23, E24, E28, E30, E31, E32, E34, and E36 models broken down by year.

KSD 10/2000 - Help determine labor times and many technical details and specifications for most BMW models.

Once you have all this info - goto the bmwcca fix-it days - you meet rich ppl who appreciate technology (a real good place to network) ... join the Runs that they do ... you will not regret the experience ... overall if there is something major - its really not too expensive to maintain a bmw ... hth!


 

clarkey01

Diamond Member
Feb 4, 2004
3,419
1
0
Originally posted by: BobDaMenkey
It's probably going to go up a bit.

Once you start getting close to the triple digits for thousands of miles traveled in a BMW, stuff starts to break. It's just their nature. The little 6 they have in the 528i is going to make it feel slow, really slow. If you dont mind that, then go for it. If you don't mind doing some repairs yourself, and some routine maintanance yourself, definatly go for it. But when big stuff breaks, it's going to get REALLY expensive.

I have a 1982 BMW 320i project car. I bought it with 80k miles on it. At 86k I pulled the head off to do a minor rebuild on the engine. The engine shouldn't have been running. There were holes between the head and the block, where the aluminum had been coroded away because the previous owner never put radiator fluid in the coolant system, just ran it on water. So at the moment I'm in the process of putting a 1991 318i engine into my e21. It's not cheap, not at all. It's really not worth it, except for being able to say "hey, look at what I did in my garage".

But yeah. If something big breaks, it's going to be EXPENSIVE. My driveshaft had went out. $450 in parts (I did the work). Clutch goes out, $200 in parts. Engine is dead $1,000 in parts. Suspension needs to be replaced $2,000 in parts.

BMW stands for Break My Wallet. Gotta love them tho.


Whats the BHP on that "Little 6", shoudlnt it be around 220 bhp + ?
 

clarkey01

Diamond Member
Feb 4, 2004
3,419
1
0
IIRC BMW's straight 6 taken from the M1 and used in the majority of the 6 cyclinder cars is quite fast.
 

dandruff

Golden Member
Jan 28, 2000
1,407
6
81
Also, most BMW dealers will do a courtesy quality inspection for free even if you dont buy the vehicle from them ...

make sure you get all the keys (2 master + 1 valet) - i dont know about the one u r looking but duplicate keys for newer bmws is expensive (since everything is on the key including ur personal settings - one of the best designed keys out there .... )

again goto roadfly.org - post this question there ...

if its got i-bus ... join the yahoo forum for hacking the i-bus

if its got nav or u plan to retrofit ... join the nav forums (btw pm me if u need the latest version of the BMW navigation opertaing system CD) ...

... i think the lights on the dashboard in a bmw are pretty sensitive (so make sure that the check engine light or service lts or brake pad sensor lts are not lit) ...

also see if it has the adaptive drive - it changes to suit your driving style (so if the current owner is a grandma type driver - drive aggressively, meaning that it will automatically detect your driving/accelerating style and choose the appropriate shift program that best suits your style, ranging from slow, smooth low rpm shifts to higher rpm shifts for those who drive more aggressively - once it has picked up ur style - u will feel more ultimate driving ...
 

V00DOO

Diamond Member
Dec 2, 2000
3,817
2
81
I own an E39 540I 6 speed. It's very similiar to the E39 528 with the 528 having an inline 6 engine and 540 with a V8 engine. They are a blast to drive but like most things in life, every good thing come with a price. In this case high maintanence cost is the price. Since the 528 you are looking at has over 80K miles you're going need to spend another $2K-$3K to make the car running right. Maybe cheaper if you can DIY. Most mechanic shop can do the minor maintanence like brakes, oil change, ect but your best option is to find a shop specialize in BMW and they don't come cheap either. Ask the person you're buying the car from for all service records. Take the car to a specialize BMW shop for a Pre-Pruchase Inspection ($100-$200).

If you're looking for a carefree car, I suggest you stay away from BMW (unless it's still under warranty) and look at Toyota or Honda. Oh, one last thing if you do decide to get a BMW don't ever take your BMW to the BMW stealer I meant the dealer, they'll rape you a$$ dry without any lube. Read all you can from the links I provided below. Do a search instead of asking because your question has been answerned a million time. Good luck.

Common problems with E39
Roadfly E39 Forum
Bimmerforums
 

m2kewl

Diamond Member
Oct 7, 2001
8,263
0
0
unless you are fixing it yourself, i suggest you stay away from a used non-CPO bmw.
 
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